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Chevrolet Blazer Warning Lights and Gauges

christopher71christopher71 Member Posts: 8
The problem started last march with the engine light. I used a small shop for repairs. they couldn't fix it. they would reset it and it wouldn't come back for months. This month it came back so i took it to dealer. they fixed it. now it is back on again! the light seems to come on once a month.
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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may want to give Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions a try.

    tidester, host
  • kaatman12kaatman12 Member Posts: 1
    My service engine light remains on all the time. I have had it reset several times to no avail. When the diagnostics are run, the error says that the O2 sensor is shows a high voltage. I have had this replaced but keep getting the same error.
    Problem appears to be in the computer. The real question here is that when I try to get my vehicle emmission tested for licensing, the computer shows that it is "NOT READY" and gives the same error message. Is there anything that can be done besides replacing the entire computer to solve this problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    There are 3 O2 sensors on a Blazer so did the right one get replaced? Need code to make sure. Plus if 99-01 model you have secondary air injection and if that has a fault can often show as an intermittant O2 sensor or bank rich due to a system check the computer runs - the system pump may be failing or a check valve frozen or hose burned out so give the code/model/year.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Need to get the code read out and then can help direct you to a fix - Advance and Autozone and many others read for free so stop by and write the code down - then have them erase it too. Post code - hundreds of possibilities.
  • christopher71christopher71 Member Posts: 8
    I am sick of my 2001 blazer.It has 64000 miles. The check engine light came on again. The dealer calls the code p0410. That's a air pump. That code has been part of the last problem I had.The last time it had 5 codes at one time.(po101 0141 0155 0410 and 1416). Now it's only the po410. That one part will cost me $500 to fix.
    The part is on national back order. That tells me the part is in demand. So alot of blazers have this problem. Why is it not a recalled item? By the way since march I have spent $2000 in repairs.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Only used 99-01 so you lucked out - just kidding.
    Fixed my 01 and a total rebuild on the 99. Some parts can be obtained from a local auto store using the Delco # found on the pump and the check valves eveyone has. Got the pumpine for $100. See the description below because there are a few check valves, hoses, and solenoids also that often fail.

    DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection
    P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM) detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an internal test to confirm.

    Circuit Description:
    This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose, and even melt the lower “T”, shutoff, and even pump impeller.
  • theugamomtheugamom Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light just came on while traveling from Miami to Savannah, GA. I had the code read at Autozone and they said it was P1970 - manufacturer controlled transmission code and to see a dealer. Is there a way to fix this myself or must I take it to a dealer. Transmission is slipping a little but not bad - yet!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Believe you meant P1870.
    TSB # 01-07-30-023A
    Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)

    When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result. This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive cycle).

    Bottom line driving it may or may not damage it more - I had this occur on my 99 and after shutting it off and restarting it went away and that never returned. At least stop by and have the pan dropped and the filter changed ($60-85) and see if all works OK. This normally only requires a TCC solenoid replacement if any repair - but depends on mileage and use/abuse (towing/offroading etc).
  • broke3broke3 Member Posts: 1
    Replaced the alternator a few months back. Then the coil went. replaced. a month later coil went again. replaced. a month later coil went again. have replaced coil, coil wires, distributor, fuel pump and filter, dist. cap and rotor, coil. now... burns coil before it even starts...twice. Getting very expensive! Can you help?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The ignition module in the dist probably does not shut off completely and always a low voltage to the coil overheating it. My guess. There are specific tests for this listed in most manuals requiring a simple volt meter.
  • wgz4lifewgz4life Member Posts: 1
    my blazer (2000) has a weird problem. It's like the it can
    t shift gears. It has no power. I hit the gas all the way and all it gives me is like 20 mph. That Service light has come on again for ny vehicle. they first time we had the Alternator replace and it helped. Second time me and my dad replaced the Alternator and it worked again. But this is getting very costly. what should I do? Should I get rid of this car or should I attempt to fix it?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Need to read the code out and post it - most auto stores read for free and most tell you the part that MAY be bad.
    $150 for an alternator is pretty cheap as things go on vehicles. Also is it 4wd and what mileage and what else have you done recently.
  • connypaconnypa Member Posts: 2
    I am looking for some advise on a problem I am having with my dash board guage lights. I can not see anything on my dash board because it doesn't light up. I have check the fuses and they are ok. Would anyone have any idea what else it could be? This is for a 1993 Chevy Blazer S10. Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks
  • lineman052lineman052 Member Posts: 3
    I just got a 2000 GMC Jimmy, SLE. I had it about a week and when I fill it it never goes below 1/2 full. I have about 500+ kilometres on the trip meter and sometimes when I turn it on it goes to empty then the low fuel light comes on. Once I start to drive it goes back to half full.
    I need some direction to look for a cause.
    Thank you for any and all help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Most are simply due to the crappy sender in the tank part of the pump assembly - Delco pump ranges from $300-400 and then have to drop tank to install. My 01 does same type thing randomly so I use the trip odometer to make sure I get gas - I'll fix when I really get pissed at it. You can try to clean the electrical connectors on the output on top of the tank reached by dropping the spare tire and reaching up - tight fit - and make sure the ground is good but my guess is its the sender. A resistive swing arm type.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Don't have specifics on this year but first I would look at the headlight switch dimmer knob control and see if that works. If its a digital dash 89-94 range they are known to fail/have faults so google on them and you can get a rebuilt for about $150.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    This may sound too simple but I have also experienced that problem before, and my cure was to move the light dial from the lowest. The lowest position in the dial totally shuts off any lights on the dash on my 2000 Blazer.
  • austininnyaustininny Member Posts: 2
    My husbands jimmy's check engine light has been on for about 5 months. We now know that the fuel pump is bad because one day it wouldn't start and he tapped the bottom of the tank and then it started. He doesn't have to do this every time. We took it to the shop for an inspection knowing that we would have to get that fixed before they would give the sticker. Any way they found 5 or 6 codes and said it would be $1500.00. AIR (air injection regulator) pump, hoses and check valves. Fuel pump, filter and hoses/lines. Also a CERP belt. Could the fuel pump being bad cause all the other codes? Is it really needing all these parts. I didn't write down the codes the shop gave but i can get them if you need them. Also should we fix this our selves? Also how hard of a job is it?
  • wbgalwbgal Member Posts: 9
    I an not an expert but I just had my Jimmy put on the computer the other day too because my check engine light was on and we were having major problems with it. I was given two codes, one for the O2 sensor and one for the 3-2 shift selinoid in the transmission. After replacing both I was told that the computer was wrong and that the entire transmission is bad and has to be replaced immediately. Two different mechanics told me that the computer doesn't always give the exact answer, it gives a round about answer of what it could be and then the garage/shop tries to narrow it down from there (not sure if that's true or not but that's what the mechanic told me at the time). I would suggest having it put on another computer just in case, there is no point putting out all of that money if it's not the cause (like I just did).
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sorry for the slow response I was campimg and yes it did rain of course!
    1. As for the air pump - yes those often fail and their is a pump under the radiator that pumps air into exhuast for 1 min or so on startup and the hose stucks water, the 2 metal check valves fail open and burn the hoses off too, and then their are 2 solenoids and 2 pplastic diaphrams that can get burned.
    2. Fuel pump pressure has to be tested and its 60psi min at start (key on engine off) and 53psi min running. Need a pressure tester on the test rail about $35 from Actron. In the tank and a pain to drop if not setup to do it. Use only a Delco pump as most aftermarkets have had problems and only have a 1 year warranty. Part is $400-500.
    3. Yes, possible that low or fluating fuel pressure cabn cause other codes but need the codes - a P0300 random misfire is one but that has about 6 other possible reasons too.
    4. Serpentine belt is the big "fan" belt that is $25-30 part and then thereare 2 pulleys tha may squeal called the idler (fixed on top) and the flex one called tensioner.
  • indikutindikut Member Posts: 5
    The most common problem for this occurance, is your entire Fuel Sending Unit. Theres a float arm that reads OHM's, and well, over time, the metal slide plate inside the tank, on the unit itself goes bad.

    I would recommend a stock DELCO unit, but you can get aftermarket units for fairly cheap.

    Another place you can buy a fuel sending unit is from a guy in florida, who runs a very reputable EBay store. I've bought many S10/Blazer parts from him, and never had any problems. He is a really good guy.

    Heres a link to his store - S10 Warehouse

    Keep in mind, that when you install the new unit, to be very careful with the arm when your putting it back in. THEY ARE VERY SENSITIVE...

    -- Cheers, "KuT" :)
  • indikutindikut Member Posts: 5
    Just recently, I installed a new Multi-Blinker/Cruise Switch, and cruise box. I had taken the dash apart to do some deep cleaning, (Radio Removed, Gauge Cluster removed). It all sat out for about 24 hours. When I put it all back together, My Security Light stays lit, the truck turns over, runs for <1sec, then dies. Passlock engaged, disabling the fuel injectors?? Also, None of my courtesy lights are working neither. Checked all fuses and relays, everything checks out ok.

    Could having the radio unplugged for so long, reset the Anti-theft/passlock code? Im lost, and dont know where else to turn..
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    When you turn the key to run the security light should go out after like 5 sec - if it does not passlock maybe activated. If it goes out you have another problem.

    The Passlock Anti-Theft system involves resistor codes which are generated by resistors located in the ignition key cylinder switch. The GM Passlock system uses what is known as a Hall Effect Sensor to send a resistor code to the Passlock module. The resistor code is activated when the ignition key is physically rotated in the ignition switch. Depending on the model of GM vehicle, the actual resistor code is only introduced to the Passlock system when the ignition switch is turned to the ignition on (run) position or only when the ignition switch is turned to the start (crank) position.
  • indikutindikut Member Posts: 5
  • indikutindikut Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for that bit of knowledge, it does help.

    This is also what I learned (Don't know if it will help others)

    When I unplugged the wiring harness from the Multi-Switch/Ignition, I forgot to unhook the battery before doing so. (I swear I took the cables off). With the battery still giving juice, and my taking the harness off, the system took it as "Teft Tampering of the wires", and put the system into Anti-Theft mode. Also, being that I had stuff unplugged so long, there was a communication error, and the system body module had lost some kind of information.

    The dealer diagnosed it, popped 3 codes, and reset everything, and had to "re-teach" the module.

    All being said, the truck runs (yay), and I now have C/C. What I thought would be an easy task, and a fairly cheap one, turned out being nearly $300 after everything was done.

    Meh.. Im just an uneducated 23 year old, learning from his mistakes.
  • austininnyaustininny Member Posts: 2
    thanks a bunch for your comment. We ended up just forking out the money so every things under warranty. We probably could of fixed it for less than half their price but O WELL.
    Lifes a B.

    thanks again
  • rushfanrushfan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Blazer that has 16,500 miles on it. When I start it up the gauges do not work and the engine light is on. If I push in the button for the trip then everything works but all the idiot lights are on. The truck also does not run good when the gauges are not working. The problem happen once before and I took the gauge unit out and made sure the connections were good and then it worked fine for a few weeks. I tried that again and this time nothing. The Blazer ran good before the dash went out.

    Anyone have an idea what to check for?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I would say the main harness is not plugged in all the way behind the gages or the battery/terminals are not allowing 12.6 volts - Blazers act weird at lower voltage (Is the volt gage reading around 14 volts as the alternator is charging?
  • rushfanrushfan Member Posts: 2
    The connect to the gauge unit is good good. Is there another I should look for and where would it be? While checking to see what the volt gauge read, which was over 14 volts. I noticed that the volt gauge and the speedo work. Its the fuel, oil pressure, and the temp don't work. Also the mileage does not lite up.
  • uptownuptown Member Posts: 2
    i agree it should be a recalled item. this is ridiculous. i am and have been going thru this for a year . now after hurricane. so im sure water had something to do with it. now we had a flood; so htis p0410 is it something i can fix. i am changing the fuel pump and regulator. will this do it. well dad is doing it.!! ha ha
  • uptownuptown Member Posts: 2
    by the way you say . and that part will cost me $500 and is on national backorder . but you did not say the part.. if you know the part.. please tell me.. please i am so so upset with my life and blazer
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Well thats their story cause they ran out of pumps - lots of good auto stores can order Delco with the #s I've attached:

    DTC P0410 Sec Air Injection - How to Repair and Part#s

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    99-01 Blazers with the 4.3L motor and 00-03 2.2L motors have the Secondary Air Injection system and I've listed the codes, part #s, circuit description, and have to fix below.

    DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection
    P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM) detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an internal test to confirm.

    Circuit Description:
    This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose, and even melt the lower &#147;T&#148;, shutoff, and even pump impeller.

    Check/Replace as required:
    1. You should hear the pump on starting the Blazer and if you put your hand on it you will feel it running for about 1 minute. Part #12560095 (AC Delco 215-364) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 1999-2000 L35 (4.3L) or #12568324 (AC Delco 215-425) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 2001 L35 (4.3L) + 2000-2003 L43/LN2 (2.2L).
    The GM # is on your current pump so check it because the Dealer is very confused and/or out of these and will sub other pumps. You can remove the pump and take the #25 torx screws out and see if the impeller is clogged, rusted, melted, etc before spending $100-200 for it. Impeller should spin freely.

    2. Extend the air intake hose that ends halfway up the passenger side of the radiator about 2 more feet so it can run between the battery and coolant reservoir and push into the fender hole to keep dry. 99-00 is 5/8 heater hose and inline connector and 01-03 is 3/4 heater hose and inline connector &#150;check size.

    3. #12558992 (AC Delco 215-638) air injection check valves 2 required &#150; most stores sell these for $12-20 each or Dealer $33 each. If they rattle or the hoses are burned thru replace &#150; should only flow air into the exhaust. The easiest way is to remove the two 13mm nuts that mount the check valve pipe to the exhaust manifold and use a vise to hold them &#150; trust me here. The little exhaust gaskets should be reusable.

    4. #10217106 connect (hoses) 2 required check valves to pipes (Dealer Only $7 each). If burned thru or hard/brittle replace. Usually a good thing to plan on buying!

    5. #12555165 secondary injection shutoff valve (vacuum operated in the ¾&#148; hose in the pump outlet to the &#147;T&#148; pipe under the Blazer (Dealer Only $27). Only open when the pump is on and vac applied. Also replace the 5/32&#148; vac hose from the solenoid to valve and solenoid to intake (about 4 ft of it). Once you extend the air intake listen to the hose end and you should not hear any exhaust noise after the short initial one minute pump run &#150; if you still do the vac diaphragm is stuck open/clogged/burned so replace. Vac is applied by an electric solenoid mounted by the pump #01997264. The center vac port goes to the intake manifold vac and the off center vac goes to the shutoff valve above. The vac should only be applied to the shutoff valve for that 1 minute as the Blazer starts then is switched off. Hose clamps will be needed here.

    6. #10105352 &#147;T&#148; for under Blazer where pump outlet to both pipes connect &#150; if yours melted! One end is ¾&#148; and two are 5/8&#148;ends - but you can use a ¾&#148; on all ends with a little lube. Hose clamps here too.

    7. The pumps 30 amps Maxi-fuse (large size) is under a little black cover between your battery tray and inside the passenger side fender. You may have to remove your battery to get to it. Depress the little cover retainer and remove, then pull the large fuse out to check/replace. There&#146;s also a 10 amp small fuse to check for the electric solenoid that controls the secondary injection shutoff valve mounted by the air pump.

    8. If you need the 2 lower hoses that connect the metal pipes to the &#147;T&#148; going to the pump here&#146;s the bad news &#150; Dealer Only and includes the pipes so over $100.

    That&#146;s all there is to it &#150; Enjoy.
  • seekertfseekertf Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a problem with my 97 Jimmy its ideling rough, blowing incredible amounts of pure black smoke. I took it to a mechanic he read the code which said it was an O2 sensor, replaced it and it didn't help, pulled all my plugs and only plugs 1,3,5 were really really black while the others were "brand" new looking. Took to another mechanic (another 70 bucks for the comp test) and he tells me its misfiring on banks 1,3,5 and its the O2 sensor, then he tells me its my fuel pressure regulator, but when he tested the fuel line its between 53-55. And he proceded to tell me he "donno".... Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Start with new Delco cap and rotor - possible misfiring and then when were the plug wires changed - they should have looked at these on an analyzer/scope but an ohm meter will do. Then are any codes still there (SES light) and most sores like Autozone and Advance read for free so post them. Pressure test is two parts with key on engine off (start press) and it should be min 60psi and then when you shut the key off [press should stay close to that and not drop quickly which is a leaking press reg on the injection or a pump failing - then with running 53psi is OK. Then could be a clogged EGR up on the front of the engine stuck open due to carbon in the port (2 bolts hold on). Post any codes.
  • dukelaverydukelavery Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 chevy blazer and I wanted to know if there is anyway to test to see if my odometer is working properly. I get an oil change every 3000 miles and I seem to be reaching that in less than a month. The oil change technician asked me if I went out of town because I'm coming back so frequently. The farthest I drive is to work, and I drive a total of 200 miles a week.
  • dukelaverydukelavery Member Posts: 2
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    3,000 miles a month is some serious driving. It's well over twice what the average driver accumulates in that time. Have you tried driving along a course of known distance such as an interstate with mile markers?

    tidester, host
  • thatsmrsavanathatsmrsavana Member Posts: 2
    I have had a 99 and 2000 Savana, both with this same issue. I've researched the internet to find 1000's of complaints, but very few to GM. People need to call GM and complain! Then maybe they'd figure out there's a problem. Without data from customers, GM won't do squat for those of us that do call them. They assume there's no problem because few people call and complain. Even if you do it yourself or go to an independent mechanic, call GM customer service 800 462-8782 and tell them your issue.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes, lots of problems on these type and many run the gas down to empty every tank and then that heats the pumps up even more (if submerged they run cooler) and the gage was a bad design too and all 1 piece unit. Good luck.
  • aubreydaubreyd Member Posts: 7
    I have a 97 Blazer that has had all kinds of wiring problems. The latest being the signal lights. I recently had to replace both front turn lights and now when you turn the indicator lever on nothing works. You can hear the relay click on and then nothing. The four-ways work fine and the brake light won't come on,on the side the turn indicator is pointed to. I've checked fuses and everything seem ok. Please help ,I'm at a loss.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    97 only has a known problem ignition switch as they call it which is not the key/tumbler but the igmition module assembly in the steering column that most electrical runs thru that causes most problems on this year Blazer. The multifunction switch can also fail and thats the turn signal/high beams/cruise lever and switch in the column and for turn signals there is a plastic assembly in the steering wheel that shuts them off after the turn that can break off. I would do the ign switch first and if you do a google on that topic there are several detailed how to do with pics but its a pain to take apart with the torx screws internal and external heads.
  • aubreydaubreyd Member Posts: 7
    I found the problem, it was the signal light relay switch. I'm used to dealing with older cars where it is located in the fuse box. On the 97 Blazer it is under the dash behind the cigarette lighter. You need to take off the kick panels off under the steering wheel and the one under the lighter for access. Thanks for all the help.
  • mnichymnichy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 91 GMC Jimmy S-15 and the steering colum is loose at the wheel tilt. It wiggles and moves up and down no matter what position. No one seems to know how to repair this problem or know where to find instructions on this repair. Please help.
  • volcervolcer Member Posts: 2
    Hello first thanks for reading . I have a 2002 blazer . The problem i have is that with the push button 4x4 on the dash. While in 2 hi and i would like to push the button to 4 hi it will blink a couple of times at the 4 hi spot then blink back 2 hi . so it will never go into 4 wheel high . I have replaced the push button on the console. any suggestions would be great thanks so much
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Search the Blazer forum for the fixes - must have posted 20x already - 3 button case is NP233 and 4 button 236.
  • ajh1ajh1 Member Posts: 1
    Heater core needs replacing, I'm am planning on doing this myself any advise on the best way this should be done. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • bnmbnmbnmbnm Member Posts: 1
    i have an 1988 chevy blazer k5. i was driving down the road when my cigarette light sparked and it killed my stereo, dash lights, and dome light. i checked the fuse box under the steering wheel but none were blown. am i missing something?? someone help me please!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Have to pull the dash out - have fun and buy a manual - allday job! General Search online gets some info with pics. Not a fun job.
  • dan83dan83 Member Posts: 3
    with my 2005 gmc jimmy i have a hard time putting fuel into it. The fuel light on all the time but when i try to refuel it is acting like it is full and wont let me put any fuel in
  • dan83dan83 Member Posts: 3
    hello and merry xmas. My question is why can i not put gasoline into my 2005 gmc jimmy? The gas light is on and when i try to put fuel in it acts like it is full. Any ideas? my email is mingmye@sympatico.ca
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