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Chevrolet Aveo Vibration Problems

agrzeskowiakagrzeskowiak Member Posts: 15
Vibration in the front end when driving at low speeds(never hit anything or ran over anything), peeling black stickers on rear passengers doors(under warranty)finally being fixed tomorrow. After waiting since June 06 when I went in and complained about them. Inside "fancy" black door handles get loose after couple months too, hubby fixed that issue was driving me nuts!! Just to let you all know that some of it IS covered under extended warranty so take it in and make an issue!!!!!!!!! If you get cranky they get scared and jump!! :)

Comments

  • agrzeskowiakagrzeskowiak Member Posts: 15
    :mad: Anyone have any answers about vibrations in the front end at low speeds? Also clock loses time for no reason, which only happens every once in awhile. Black stickers on back doors by glass also bubbled in less then 1yr of buying. Those are under warranty and are being replaced. Please help!! Love the car except for those little issues.OOPS didn't realize this was in the same area has last post.
  • randydriverrandydriver Member Posts: 262
    oh the clock issue check to make sure you battery cable ends are clean and getting a good connection. One the front end shake have the tires rebalanced....it should work and mine is a 2004 so there are no black strips.
  • agrzeskowiakagrzeskowiak Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the info will ask tomorrow, when they have to replace black strips. Aslo I have had the tires rotated already back in June 06, shaking still after that. But I will let them know. Thanks!!!!!!!
  • agrzeskowiakagrzeskowiak Member Posts: 15
    Ok the black strips are fixed!!!! Now for the vibration, they checked out the front end and decided that all 4 of my tires are junk so ordered me new ones at no cost to me seeing as they are under warranty :shades: That makes me happy. So once that happens we will see. I am not one to let something like this slide, I bought a new car and dang it, I am not going to pay for anything that is wrong with it. Services guys are much better now that they figured out I am not gonna sit back and let things go.
  • randydriverrandydriver Member Posts: 262
    I am glad that they are replacing you tires under warranty. the ones that come on the car do not last very long maybe about 20,000 miles.
  • optus3optus3 Member Posts: 7
    Can anyone see any advantage of H&N air filters over the Apexi Power intake. There's not much price difference if you shop around. I know the H&N is reliable but looks old school.
  • barry42barry42 Member Posts: 64
    I assume they are original equipment !!

    But , The question is what is the make and size of the original tires ??
  • flaaveoflaaveo Member Posts: 161
    Hi. I think you mean K&N air filters? The red cotton oiled air filters that have much better air flow and are suppose to give you better mileage and a few extra horsepower. I usually buy them for my cars/trucks. But at $35-50 a piece...I ask for them as birthday gifts or Christmas presents now. You get maybe 1-3 extra horsepower and barely any mileage increase,if any. But they are more free breathing and are very good for the engine and you never change it...it has a million mile warranty! The car will be long dead before you go that far!
  • agrzeskowiakagrzeskowiak Member Posts: 15
    They replaced the tires and car seems to be handling alot better,, also no more vibration. Hopefully this will take care of the issue for me. :shades:
  • randydriverrandydriver Member Posts: 262
    Hooray, :) I am glad that fixed the vibration....
  • barry42barry42 Member Posts: 64
    Who made the Tires ??
  • agrzeskowiakagrzeskowiak Member Posts: 15
    I am not sure who made the tires, I never bothered to look but I do know they were the original ones that came on the car.
  • barry42barry42 Member Posts: 64
    Sincerely thanks !! Barry.
  • angela50angela50 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Chevy Aveo with 34,500 miles on it I have only had the car for about 3 weeks bought it used from dealer, the car car vibrates starting at 10 mph and goes on at 20, 30 40, and when I'm on the freeway it is a steady vibration at 60 It finally goes away when reaching 73 mph
    took it to the dealer and they said it was the tires i thought so to but i bought new ones and it still does the same thing does anyone out there know what I should do??angie :confuse:
  • jworsleyjworsley Member Posts: 7
    Another victim, why dont you search my posts in the general forum of Aveo and you will find your answers. Some of your guys posting here are at the beginning of what took me over 4 months to fix. My 2004 aveo was at the dealership 5-6 times with total time in the shop well over a month. Its a very long story but the positive side of it is they ultimately fixed it. "The tires" and "its cold" excuse is a ruse, or humurous diversion and at best just an uninformed lazy mechanic/technician who has no analytical skills. Several components on the front end suspension on many of the units coming out of the factory in Korea are faulty both in design and quality. It is as simple as that.

    In my particular case my dealership had not done alot of volume sales on the aveo so my car became a guniea pig to sort through the mess for the technician/mechanic. Keep in mind there are several things going on that prvent the dealership from sorting through your mistery problems. One is that they often rely on TSB's technical servic bulletins from GM to analyze instead of their own brains. IF there are no correct solutions in the TSB list or if your problem just has not appeared yet on the GM list then the mechanic falls upon his own resources and brains to work the issue. There enters the 2nd problem, warranty work doesnt pay as much as out of warranty work so often the problem is shuffled from a senior mechanic down to a junior with less expertise who starts a guessing game with your car and eats up your personal time letting you see if his guess was right. 3rd problem sometimes GM;s TSB list simply doesnt yet contain a solution to your problem as it has yet to appear on their radar so there is nothing to consult and finally the 4th problem ,, even if it is there on the list as a good source the technician/mechanic simply doesnt use it and proceeds with the guessing game.

    Good news for you. The front end suspension TSB has been circulating for awhile now. The solution is to replace both control arms entirely. If they come back and tell you we replaced the bushings or greased this and that, shove the car back in their face and tell them to follow the instructions of their own TSB list.

    Bad news for you
    the strut assembly is for [non-permissible content removed] also. So you might find later that you have a faulty or leaky strut. In my case I had everything fixed, in other words all the creaking and popping that would surface on light turns , light stops and when passing over any kind of imperfection in the road was gone. That was my original issue.

    However after that nightmare of 4 months of trying to get this fixed i picked up the car what i thought would be one last time only to find out that I now had in the right front end a persistent low grade roar at all speeds. Turns out according to the dealership that the right f end strut area now contained a faulty leaky strut so they replaced that and finally after 4 months and change the car was finally back to the original state of the car when i bought it. It now drives GREAT and SmOOTH. its perfect,,, almost????

    just to give you some background these components and this saga started failing in the first 6 or so months after purchase. The car now has 39,400 miles on it. I called to thank the dealership for their help the other day as i am really grateful even though their system of fixing things was really trying on me. The whole time while my car has een in and out of the shop ive been driving a land rover with high gas prices so its been inconvenient to say the least.
    So I called them to say thank youd never guess what they told me.

    Bring your car back in sir,, we need to change your timing belt, gm has put out a TSB for faulty timing belts. They need to be changed at 30,000 miles. lol I couldnt believe it. Well at least they were honest. GM pays for the timimg belt but they dont cover the labor for their own faulty timing belt. Isnt that weird? Its weird beccause as many of you know this engine is an interference engine so if the timing belt brakes you most likely will have to replace the head of the engine. GM would have to pick the bill up on that situation due to the power train warranty so why they would not create an incentive to have customers bring in their car and have the timing belt replaced and have all costs covered is beyond me. Replacing a head is 100 times more expensive than a lousy timing belt.

    Here is the real kicker, the dealership gave me the feeling that the timing belt will have to be replaced every 30,000 miles here on out. I asked myself arent they replacing the belt with a higher quality belt, what is causing them to break in the first place? etc etc LOL geez the last car I had that had to have the timing belt replaced each 30,000 miles was in the 1970's its called a FIAT.

    Anyways that is some of my story i hope all benefit from this, print this post out and take it to your dealership if it helps you get your car fixed. Also regarding your oem tires they were not all that great and yes replacing them helps with how the car feels, sounds and drives. But replacing the tires in most cases is only a band-aid over the real issues. Dont let em fool you or get you out of your warranty period. I had to be very agressive and persistent to get my car back in its original shape.

    Cheers
    John
    [email protected]
  • pbolpbol Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2006 aveo with 8k,When new i noticed a slight vibration in the front end,I found out they were the tires that caused all the problems,I think they are junk or blem tires they use to be honest,I replaced them with some HP4000 tires and it drives very smooth now
  • new2007aveonew2007aveo Member Posts: 3
    Hi, just bought a new Aveo 2007, any vibration problems to report? So far I have a strong vibration on the head rest when the car is idling (stopped at a traffic light for ex.) when I have the AC on, when I turn it off it's virtually gone, but there is still a very slight vibration. Also the AC motor seems to be pretty noisy. Also, when I'm driving over 60 mph I feel a slight vibration on the accelerator pedal, and the car generally doesn't feel smooth on the road. Didn't bring it in yet, I wanted to get educated on this a bit before going and getting the run-around. Have the issues about vibrations from the previous model been resolved? Does anyone else have a similar situation with their 2007 Aveo? Thanks,
    Joe
  • timnemeth12timnemeth12 Member Posts: 2
    my car did the same thing and it was my wheel bearings and it is a 2008 with 7500 miles on it
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    Did your bearing get replaced and how is it right now. Kind of odd that the bearings would go bad so fast. Generally bearing are good for at least 50,000 miles or more and are serviced when the front brakes are replaced as part of procedure.
  • marissa24marissa24 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2006 chevy aveo bought the car with 371 miles on it the lil bucket been vibrating since then its 2008 took it has been back and forward and back and forward to the dealership now guess what its even worst its 2008 and the car need a wheel bearing thats is costing me around about $350.00. is that going to the fix the problem hmmmmm... im gonna have to pay the darn money and find out oh yeah the warranty is now expired the car dealership mullen chevrolet is closed down. i should continued my claim with the BBB COUNSEL but i let it go shame on me. stuck with a hoopty....... :-( :mad:
  • marissa24marissa24 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2006 chevy aveo bought the car with 371 miles on it the lil bucket been vibrating on the right side since 2006. its 2008 now, the car has been back and forward, back and forward and back again, to the dealership. now guess what its even worst its 2008 and the car need a wheel bearing thats is costing me around about $350.00. is that going to the fix the problem hmmmmm... im gonna have to pay the darn money and find out oh yeah the warranty is now expired the car dealership mullen chevrolet is closed down. i should continued my claim with the BBB COUNSEL but i let it go shame on me. stuck with a hoopty....... :-( the car is great on gas $45.00 full tank. but what about the low quality, you can lean against the door and put a dent it it, the tires and everything around the tires suck. i'm afraid i will be needing cv joints and axles soon the car is not sitting as high anymore. i'm single no kids no one ride in my car period. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • marissa24marissa24 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2006 chevy aveo bought the car with 371 miles on it the lil bucket been vibrating since then its 2008 took it has been back and forward and back and forward to the dealership now guess what its even worst its 2008 and the car need a wheel bearing thats is costing me around about $350.00. is that going to the fix the problem hmmmmm... im gonna have to pay the darn money and find out oh yeah the warranty is now expired the car dealership mullen chevrolet is closed down. i should continued my claim with the BBB COUNSEL but i let it go shame on me. stuck with a hoopty....... :-(

    take that car in don't waste time and let the miles go up get it checked over and over until it drive them crazy not you. go in the problem can get worst.
  • dotdijakdotdijak Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 aveo and I have had every problem imaginable.I bought it brand new with less than 100miles on it. I have had the CPU replaced, new fuel filters, fuel pump,water pump, fuel injector, gas tank and bearings replaced in left side. this has all been in the last 6mos and the car has 30,000 miles. I too have had a bent rim, tires replaced and have a serious front end problem. It thumps and vibrates, it shimmies. I have had rebalance, alignments and I believe it is the struts and the arm, but I cannot convince the dealer of this. Anyone have any other possible solutions for the vibration, shimmy and thumps?

    dotdijak
  • poquettepoquette Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2007 aveo, since I have owned this car we had to replace all 4 rims they came w/ car bent, lower control arms, they played w/ sway bar, bushings(7) times and now w/ only 23, on the car it is now struts, mounds and bearing and oh yall they say we need new tires. get this we will need to pay for the tires. I am fighting w/ main office as they say uneven tire ware. mmmmmmm front end issue people. this was last week still waiting for parts and if they will pay for tires. Lakeland florida :shades:
  • dotdijakdotdijak Member Posts: 3
    The best bet is to go with non manufactured rims. We replaced our 2006 with rims with aluminum non Dawao rims at much cheaper rate and a much better rim, we also went with 15 inch versus 14 inch and the tires all top of the line that were cheaper than manufacturers(do not let them talk you into Chinese or Japanese tires, Go Goodyear/ Firestone. The car now rides like a dream. Yes the bearings were replaced and thus far all is well. P.S. dont' forget your timing belt needs to be replaced by 59,000 miles or the manufacturer will not cover under the powertrain warranty if it goes on its own at the 60,000 mile mark. You can not get one fraction over 60,000. Auburn, MI :surprise:
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Member Posts: 6
    I'm also experiencing a front end vibration on my 2004 Aveo. I could write a book on the possibilites, but here's what my (tentative) investigation has revealed. The aft bushings of the lower control arms are shot. They're made of rubber and are supposed to flex as your wheel hits bumps and goes up and down. Mine show large stress cracks in the rubber, so I can't assume that they're operating like they should. I assume that if they were firm and not cracked that they would help hold the wheel at a constant and steady angle while driving. Instead it's my belief that this is causing the front wheels on my Aveo to wobble like a bad shopping cart.

    The best way to inspect these bushings is to jack the car up. When the suspension is fully extended it will give you a better view. Originally I didn't see the big cracks in the rubber. With the wheel at the bottom of it's suspension travel, the rubber joint is fully flexed. That's where it will show it's condition. If I knew how to post a photo here I would.

    I ordered new control arms from rockauto dot com. Both control arms with shipping included was around $140. I'll install them myself within a few days and be able to say whether or not it fixed the problem.
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Member Posts: 6
    I'm also experiencing a front end vibration on my 2004 Aveo. I could write a book on the possibilites, but here's what my (tentative) investigation has revealed. The aft bushings of the lower control arms are shot. They're made of rubber and are supposed to flex as your wheel hits bumps and goes up and down. Mine show large stress cracks in the rubber, so I can't assume that they're operating like they should. I assume that if they were firm and not cracked that they would help hold the wheel at a constant and steady angle while driving. Instead it's my belief that this is causing the front wheels on my Aveo to wobble like a bad shopping cart.

    The best way to inspect these bushings is to jack the car up. When the suspension is fully extended it will give you a better view. Originally I didn't see the big cracks in the rubber. With the wheel at the bottom of it's suspension travel, the rubber joint is fully flexed. That's where it will show it's condition. If I knew how to post a photo here I would.

    I ordered new control arms from rockauto dot com. Both control arms with shipping included was around $140. I'll install them myself within a few days and be able to say whether or not it fixed the problem.

    I just posted photos at Flickr dot com. You don't need to register to view them. Just use these exact search terms on the opening page.

    Aveo Lower Control Arm Bushing #1
    Aveo Lower Control Arm Bushing #2
    Aveo Lower Control Arm Bushing #3

    Photo #3 gives you the best close up.

    By the way, here's something "off topic". Changing the timing belt on the Aveo was much easier than other cars I've done. There was lots of room to work, and the main serpentine belt (for the alternator and such) has a spring loaded adjuster so it comes off in about 30 seconds. It still no picnic, but compared to other cars it's easier.
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Member Posts: 6
    Here's an update to my recent post. Changing the lower control arms did nothing to lessen the vibration, even though the bushings were shot. Next item on the agenda is to buy new rims.
  • rottsus5rottsus5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am so glad that I am not the only one...what a headache! I bought my Aveo with 19 miles on it, before it reached 20,000 it had a new cadallitic converter, 2 new hub bearings, new rotors, a paint job, you name it it has happened to my lemon, and now I am almost to 60,000 and it feels like it is falling apart...if you hit a bump it literally sounds like the back tires are going to pop off. Anyone who is looking to buy one of these make sure you find someone that will stand behind it, chevy will not! My first brand new car and I feel like I have been taken! They talk about all the fraud in this country...what is this!
  • guitaristjdguitaristjd Member Posts: 1
    I was quoted around 500 for both lower front and right arms. Is this a little high? How hard of job would this be?
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Member Posts: 6
    Considering how much mark up there is at a garage, that seems average. I paid $150 for both control arms at rockauto point com. My mechanical skills are only average and they weren't hard to change. There is one bolt on the driver's side that has an interference issue. You can't remove it without raising the transmission slightly. With the front end on jack stands I used a floor jack to put a light pressure on the bottom of the transmission and that allowed the bolt head to sneak past. Just make sure to use a scrap of wood as a cushion between the jack pad and the tranny. Other than that, you'll need a ball joint splitter (cheap item at Autozone, maybe $10) and hammer. And you'll need an offset 17/19 box end wrench. A socket won't fit on the ball joint bolts with them installed.

    Use the floor jack to put a light pressure under the ball joint to keep them from spinning in their socket while you tighten them with the wrench.

    Now that I've said all of that...it didn't fix the problem on my car. I've changed almost everything. Control arms, tires, rims, rotors, brake pads, etc. My tie rod ends are good but I'll be replacing them over the weekend just for the sake of changing them.

    Good luck.
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Member Posts: 6
    I changed the tie rod ends today. That didn't help a thing. You can add those to the list of things I've changed earlier. See post #33 above.
  • girlknightgirlknight Member Posts: 1
    I know what you mean! Although I haven't had as much trouble as you have, I've had enough to last me a life time! This was also my first new car and wish we would have purchased something else instead. I have yet to find someone to say anything positive about this model. Chevy won't stand behind any repairs, the dealership we bought it from won't stand behind their repairs. I really feel like selling the doggone thing for junk! Right now, we're dealing with the right front tire wobbling like heck. We've been dealing with the tire sensor going berserk for almost a year now. The dealer says we shorted it out by overinflating it, but they are the ones that did that when they were working on other repairs and refuse to admit blame, so they won't cover the cost of the part/labor needed to fix it. Also, everytime we have a repair that SHOULD be covered under the warranty, it isn't and we end up paying anyway. Don't know why we ever bought the warranty...
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    I'm sorry to hear you've been having such a rough experience with your dealership, girlknight. If you would like to work with customer service on these concerns, please send us an email with more information (also please include your name/Edmunds username, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • 2007aveo2007aveo Member Posts: 1
    The engine is now rattling...fuel injection doesn't always kick in when it should...so puttering...they've already replaced the entire throttle body....after only doing part of it the first time. I still hear noise every time from the throttle body (upper right side of the engine when sitting in the driver's seat). I only have 40,000 on this and this is the worse car I've ever owned. I'm now looking to take it in for the 4th time this next week and I'm going to refer them to this site for the same issues with your cars. Chevrolet has done a poor job making this model. They should recall the cars having the issues and give us new ones that will work. There is no way there should be all these problems for no reason in such a new car...that was also bought new from a Chevrolet dealer.

    Mark
  • s_krens_kren Member Posts: 3
    I dont think my experience with my Aveo will help anyone but I feel like a lot of you do, disappointed with my car. My car is 2006 automatic 4 dr hatchback. Currently 165000 km's on it.
    I bought my car brand new. I am lucky if I get 400km/per tank of gas.
    Ever since I got it when I have people in the back seat it makes noise. But of course when I took it in multiple times to the dealer while still under warranty it wouldnt make the noise.
    Does anyone elses backlights where the shifter is get really hot to the touch when you have them on? Now i just keep mine on low.
    I have had to have my thermostat changed twice. My hatchback doesnt open anymore due to something inside with the handle (due to poor design inside door, rod slipped out of something)
    I think something to do with shocks is going or already gone.
    This past August my rear brakes seized and I couldnt drive my car. Had to have it towed.
    Just had my car in because my caliper seized on my rotor and my car was shaking because of it.
    Car is making a noise sometimes and I thought it was a belt so my mechanic changed my fan belt but didnt stop the noise. Tried getting my mechanic to listen for it when he had my car last time but it didnt make it for him.
    I have never had to replace any of my back lights but have had to replace my headlights already, 3 times I think.
    Spring or something broke in my shifter so I have to make sure the shifter is pushed all the way over in park to be able to get my key out. But since it has been so long that I am used to doing so.
    My rear windshield washer fluid doesnt work but I think the line is just clogged.

    It is decent running though. Doesnt make a lot of noise (atleast not yet) sometimes slow to go up hills. Not sure what the "Hold" button is really for but I do use it often. My mechanic tells me I should consider getting my timing belt changed soon, that it might be the cause of the noise I hear sometimes. Of course with that is the water pump as well. :confuse:
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2012
    When you get your timing belt changed, make sure to have the mechanic inspect the idler pulley for a dry bearing. That is common at your mileage. They're not cheap, but as the bearing wears out it can ruin a timing belt whether the belt is new or not. Changing one without the other can be kind of pointless at your mileage point unless it's been changed in the past. I checked mine at 110km and it was marginal. It will get changed with the next belt change for sure.
  • cthruercthruer Member Posts: 1
    Don't know about the rest of the problems but I can help you with the hatch back. Take the panel off to get access to the piece that keep popping off. It's pretty easy to figure out. Mine came off a few times til finally I put a zip tie around it and it has been on ever since.
  • elvisthepelviselvisthepelvis Member Posts: 6
    edited February 2013
    The "Hold" light was flashing on my 2005 Chev Aveo and the engine was sluggish. What happens is that when theres a miss fire or a vacuum problem the engine decreases in RPM and will make the transmission feel like its in first gear and wanting to shift when in all reality it was just a "Map Sensor" at $80 from Auto Zone. DONT assume its a transmission problem. You will get all kinds of crazy codes that will lead you on a wild goose chase and no one computer scanner will tell you exactly whats wrong, only a sense of direction. The "Map Sensor" is black and the size of a zippo lighter located on top of the engine with 3 wires going to it held down by one bolt. Both my "Engine and Hold Light" were illuminated but after installing the NEW map sensor then disconnecting the battery for 10 min and then reconnecting the battery and getting the Auto Zone guy to reset the computer. The vehicle ran perfectly with NO trouble meaning both the engine and hold light idiot lights went out. Why disconnect the battery? Because some auto stores wont reset your computer with their scanner because the dealerships and auto mechanics started raising cane because they were losing business charging you $300 to replace a sensor that cost only $20 to $80 to replace yourself in less than 5 minutes. Who else knows what falsified repairs they will pencil whip while their at it. Remember the dealership pays their employees a commission on repairs and most of these guys are in their 20's and not necessarily some older grey haired guy. In these times as you know, grey haired guys are an insurance liability. In short, if I had a problem with my car, I would always change a couple of sensors first, then plugs, plug wires, disconnect the battery to wipe out the codes and then re hook up battery and start the car to see what it does. If all else fails after youve done your self help repair & then only then do you take it to the garage for repair. Its Not good money after bad because its one less part you wont have to replace in the future. See the dealership, can swap parts to troubleshoot where as me or you and or the repair garage cant do that. The garage will simply say that you had more than one bad part because they cant return electrical parts after they've installed them. Sounds crazy I know but then again its all about saving money.
  • elvisthepelviselvisthepelvis Member Posts: 6
    Simply take a water spray bottle and spray both the coil pack and plug wires while the vehicle is running to see if there is any arcing. Note* do this only at night because the sun light during the day will not let you see the arcing. If it is arcing then it will look like a miniature lightning storm. Replace plug wires and coil pack as needed.
  • elvisthepelviselvisthepelvis Member Posts: 6
    Usually the "Hold" light will flash and the car even though its an automatic transmission will feel like its stuck in 1st gear even though its in regular drive. The reason is if the engine is running sluggish and not producing enough power then the computer will not allow the transmission to shift properly. Fear not, its not a transmission problem. Its either a vacuum leak, faulty plugs or plug wires, an O-2 sensor and or a map sensor. A scanner code is misleading and only puts you in a certain direction. Do you pay the garage $300 to $400 to repair the vehicle or do you change parts on your own hoping you get it right. First off, any parts you replace are gonna be cheap because you bought them yourself for YOUR car where as the garage / dealership will mark them up 3 times plus labor. Always self help first. Some garages / dealerships will unnecessarily replace parts because they cant return them once installed so they will tell you the problem was more than one part. In the case of my "Hold" light staying on. It ended up being the "Map" sensor. Sure I bought plugs and plug wires that weren't the problem but the better gas mileage paid for it anyway and I was only out $40 vs what a garage would've charged at $250. Get the point?
  • elvisthepelviselvisthepelvis Member Posts: 6
    With time. my 2005 Aveo handling got worse and worse. First remember that the factory tires, struts and shocks are crap. I bought the mid range tires, struts and shocks and ALL vibration went away immediately. Go figure. Just because a vehicle is new doesn't mean its gonna drive like new.
  • chevav07chevav07 Member Posts: 1
    I have been very frustrated with the fact that i have put in so much money in to a car that was bought with 7 miles on it and only has 62K. I have replaced the Rack and Pinion Steering, all tie rods, Struts (twice), rotors Twice, bought two brand new sets of tires, 4 new rims, balanced numerous times and also aligned it a few times and the car still vibrates and rattles inside. I really would like for Chevy to do something about this situation.
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