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We've been having the exact same problem with my daughter's car. Replacing item after item. Thanks so much for sharing your solution, we are going to try it next.
Can you tell me where to get those key turn codes? I have had no luck trying to find them myself. You can email me at tvanrik@yahoo.com thanks!
For the last year or so, the car has occasionally hesitated to accelerated, or tried to die at idle, especially after being started warm. Used to be able to cure this, it seemed, by putting in neutral and revving up the engine a bit.
Lately, this has suddenly become a daily occurrence, and it now occasionally shows the check engine light. Every thing else seem normal. Took it to a shop and it showed only a "rich" code.
Okay, experts. Anyone got any ideas?
id check the egr vavle i think. Mabye its stuck open giving u the rich code.
Turns out his dad had won the Plymouth national troubleshooting competition in 1974 also. Guess trouble shooting runs in the family.
My 98 Sunfire was running perfectly fine. On Christmas Eve, pulled up to a red light on the Boulevard and it stalled. After 15 mins of investigation, hit the ignition switch and it magically started. Went to Advance Auto, they put a computer on it to read my computer and it said that the CrankShaft A Sensor was bad. Bought one just in case for later replacement. Had no problems the rest of the night, finished my Christmas shopping and all was well.
3 days later began to "sputter, rear and jerk" while I was driving it. Got it to the garage and replaced the CrankShaft A Sensor.. Worked fine didn't seem to have a problem whatsoever.
Yesterday, it made it 6 miles and just shut off. Started again, made it another 3 miles and that is exactly where it sat. The garage put the computer on it again, and it said that it was the crankshaft sensor. In the meantime, after cranking on it to attempt to get it started the starter went out.
The starter was put on, the cam sensor replaced drove it home... didn't make it but 4 miles and it shut off again... Same problem! To cover all bases, replaced the Coil pack module this time.
So with this being said, the Crankshaft Sensor, the Cam Sensor, the Starter, and the Coil Pack Module have been replaced.
It seems when the temperature begins to go up to normal running temp, it starts this. When it's cold it works fine.
So, what now? Any suggestions, besides junking it???
:sick:
--- Here's the instructions ---
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and the PCM. If a PCM (ECM) is replaced, the new PCM (ECM) needs to learn the correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial ignition ON. If the IPC is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the PC. The password learn procedure is as follows:
Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM telltale will flash for 10 minutes .
When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running, the password is learned.
* Just my observation here, it's really going to be beneficial to have your factory radio installed to do this, as I don't know if you could even tell what's going on without it and its red flashing anti-theft light. By now it's just a couple extra steps to take your aftermarket out, put your factory back in, then once this reprogram is done, you can put your aftermarket back in.
I will also tell you- I was uneasy installing an aftermarket radio after all the problems we had, but the key is a high quality wiring harness for your Pontiac. My 2000 Sunfire was the first year Pontiac went to this new fangle idea of putting the "brain" of the car inside the factory radio. So, where a lot of folks can go to Wal-Mart and get one for $10 I didn't have that luxury. I can say with all the confidence in the world to go with the Pac-Audio "Radio Replacement" (as they now call it) It's the only one that "Maintains a "healthy" status on the Class II databus" aka tells your PCM (ECU) that all is good. These items are costly ($100ish)- in fact they might cost more than the aftermarket radio itself, but don't make the same mistake I did and get a cheapo version- that's what caused my $1,000+ headache in the first place. And go ahead and google replacing your factory radio with a new factory radio, and be prepared for a real shocker! Currently, I can gladly say I've been using my aftermarket radio with my Pac-Audio piece now for months without any kind of issue what-so-ever. I'm not affiliated with this company, but I really should be. I will say I keep my factory radio in the trunk of my car just in case my aftermarket would ever be stolen, as I don't know if these cars would even run without the radio in there or not!
Good luck to all- and if anyone has any questions please feel free to ask away! :shades:
Salvage yards might be a good starting point- I got my replacement at the Pull-A-Part for $32ish, O Reilly was able to flash it for me for $75, so one more $100 was annoying yes, but it turned out to be what fixed it for me.
You could also get the whole package at O Reilly, and I think it was less than $200 for the computer (ECM) that was already flashed for my car.
See just putting the factory radio back in didn't cut it for us, because the damage had already been done to the computer. Looking back, it was pretty obvious that something was going to be squirrely with this by the sheer fact that Best Buy wouldn't sell me any radio install parts, for fear of lawsuit.
Out of all the things my husband changed, poked, prodded, replacing the ECM was by far the easiest, so you shouldn't have any trouble swapping it out.
Good luck with it- let me know if it this helps!!!
Not true, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-Pontiac-Sunfire-Engine-Computer-ECM-Programm- ed_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35a72ce64aQQitemZ230438004298QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fT- ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
$83 shipped on ebay, and already flashed to your vin number.
It's very easy to replace compared to the countless other items we tried fixing first.
Once you get it, you need to follow these instructions:
In order for a theft deterrent vehicle to run, a password is communicated between the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and the PCM. If a PCM (ECM) is replaced, the new PCM (ECM) needs to learn the correct password of the vehicle. When the new PCM is installed, the EEPROM calibration is flashed into the new PCM and the vehicle will learn the new password upon initial ignition ON. If the IPC is replaced, the PCM needs to learn the new password from the PC. The password learn procedure is as follows:
Attempt to start vehicle, then leave the ignition ON. The THEFT SYSTEM telltale will flash for 10 minutes .
When the THEFT SYSTEM telltale stops flashing, start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running, the password is learned.
-
There's a good chance this is the problem, and if it is it's really a simple fix, we've all just be taught to think "car computer problems" must mean spending a fortune on fixing!
Good luck- let us know!
can anybody help me? i really dont know ABCD of Auto.
decided to move it up on the driveway , which has a slight incline to it and as i was backing it up it stalled out. now it will not start at all , but cranks over like it wants to. i had no choice but to drag it down to an auto shop and have it put on a computer this morning and no codes are coming up on it and no dash lights are coming on, no check engine, oil, etc...it appears from the computer check and my problem guages that it has no issue, but will not start, and yes there is over half a tank in it. not sure where to go next from here ??!!?? the plugs were found to be fouled out and were replaced but still will not turn over.... :confuse: any ideas?
I apologize that you are still experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me your VIN, current mileage, contact info and dealership so I can look into this further? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I apologize that you had an accident. Can you please email me your contact information, dealership, VIN, mileage and best time to contact you? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
I've got a 2000 sunfire gt 2.4L 5spd. It's been acting up on me for the past month and has been bad (stalled a couple times) the last couple weeks. The car starts without any problems and idles fine. I can apply pressure to the gas pedal and RPM rev's ok (while in neutral). Once i release the clutch while in gear however, there is a great loss in power, almost to the point where it will stall on me. This happens for about the first 30 seconds of starting the vehicle then afterwards it's fine and there are no issues. It happens everytime i start the vehicle. It has stalled on me a couple times during startup. I've brought to the mechanic, computer said O2 sensors were faulty and they have been changed. Fault continued, I brought it back to the same mechanic and now they suggest it may be the MAP sensor. Anyone else have or had this issue and may know what it is?
I wish GM had a call center so at least we could call and get some engineering expertise to help troubleshoot.
I'll post If I solve the problem.
Cheers
Daniel Rohr