Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Honda Civic Basic Maintenance Questions

13

Comments

  • Options
    larryde3larryde3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a new 2007 Civic and the dealer tells me that the oil change should be done every 5000 miles. I have always changed the oil oil my cars at 3000 miles but the dealership tells me it is a waste of money. My local oil change place tells me that Honda likes to tell you 5000 so it can generate business with future engine problems - but does my oil change guy just want to generate additional business from me. Any thoughts?
  • Options
    shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Changing your oil every 3,000 miles is a complete waste of money, and depending upon the oil that you use, 5,000 miles is nearly as much of a waste.

    Your Civic is equipped with an oil life monitor (OLM), and that monitor will tell you the percentage of life remaining for the oil in your engine. Honda (and many other manufacturers as well) have spent tens of millions of dollars proving out these OLM systems, and the work quite well. Follow its advice and your engine will last hundreds of thousands of miles. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    My local oil change place tells me that Honda likes to tell you 5000 so it can generate business with future engine problems - but does my oil change guy just want to generate additional business from me.

    Well, Honda would be really stupid to have people leave oil in longer to make money off of engine problems. That would obviously hurt all future sales at Honda.

    As Shipo said, the maintenance minder should be followed. And according to my usage, it should be somewhat past 5,000 before you need to change. (The specific mileage is determined by your driving habits.)

    If you were to change it every 3,000 and you reset your minder everytime you get an oil change (as you're supposed to do) it would increase the frequency of how often you do the other maintenance items as listed in the manual. So you'd not only spend extra money on oil changes, you'd spend extra money on everything else.

    Stick to the minder...
  • Options
    heart2heart2 Member Posts: 38
    Never had the cabin filter (?s) replaced. Any sites that describe in detail how to go about it for an amateur? Did do it once on an Acura TL but the original change was done by dealer so plastic cutting was already done. Thanks.
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    I had a 2003 coupe and the procedure was in the owners manual on page 229, Dust and Pollen filter. Check to see if it's in your owner's manual. Basically it describes how to remove some hooks that's holding the glove box in place. Once you do that, the glove box rotates downward out of the way and you have access to the filters.

    There's no plastic cutting involved.
  • Options
    robsmith4robsmith4 Member Posts: 1
    Can any one tell me where I can find a list of the services that are done at each of the recommended service intervals on a 2006 Civic EX coupe. I would like to be able to shop the service competitivly and need to know what needs to be done.
  • Options
    ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Actually there are a lot of sources. The real deal is the MY shop manual. You can see in exact detail what is involved. The facts of the matter are most maintenance items are indeed visual, inspection, verify. So if you really know what you are doing, you can just vendor out the items that either you can't or won't do or are beyond your expertise and/or shop equipment.

    link titlehttp://www.honda.com/

    or you can also go onto the oem's owners site
    link title
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    Can any one tell me where I can find a list of the services that are done at each of the recommended service intervals on a 2006 Civic EX coupe. I would like to be able to shop the service competitivly and need to know what needs to be done.

    I've never seen any published schedule regarding the actual intervals on when to do the service on the latest generation Civic because it is all tied to the oil life computer or the maintenance minder as it's called.

    When it gets to 15% oil life, you will see either an A or B and possibly 1,2,3,4 or 5 as well. Your owners manual has a description on what each item is so you can have it priced out beforehand if you want.

    If you don't have it serviced at Honda, make sure after the service you follow the manual instructions to reset the oil life at 100%. That will keep you on the proper maintenance intervals for the life of the vehicle.
  • Options
    vat19vat19 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 honda civic and it has 64k miles. Is it time to change the serpentine belt and how do you do this????? I have 2 corollas and it took me 3 mins to change both of them.

    Thanks in advance
  • Options
    cap2cap2 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I have a 2002 Civic and I am wondering if that's a typical time for Brake Pads replacement? I am not an aggressive driver, so not sure what determines Brake Pads replacement. Is it usually replaced every at 60K, 90K, 110K?

    Thanks,
    -Lawrence
  • Options
    ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    There is no substitution for visual inspections, especially at the prescribed intervals! Actual pad and rotor wear (front and or rear) are the determining factors. It is as easy as; if you do NOT know what you are looking for, get someone who does. A lot of places if you look will offer to do it free of charge. There is no reason a min of 100,000 miles can not be reached before you are even concerned

    Some so called "NON" aggressive drivers are ULTRA aggressive on brake pads and rotors (not to scare you or create doubt, but you must have some sense of it or not) . So for example, a lot of so called (safe in their own minds) pre brake, thinking this is safer, better, etc,( who really can stick whomever's reasoning) Some folks even ride their brakes thinking it is safer. So what happens is since they do not understand that proportioning valves are set to equalize brake application forces, pre braking actually will wear rear pads/shoes app 4x faster than the fronts, which are the ones designed to do the majority of the braking. So if one just brakes normally the proportioning valves will function correctly and normal front to rear wear will occur.
  • Options
    ozmannozmann Member Posts: 1
    It may be your cv joint, they make a noise in tight turns when they are about to fail.
  • Options
    civictorycivictory Member Posts: 73
    We purchased a '08 Civic back in December after driving a '97 Civic for years. Oil changes (at the dealer) with multi-point inspections on the the '97 were costing me about $25. Oil changes with inspections on the '08 are costing me about $50.

    I can't tell what's different, and therefore can't justify the difference in price.

    What is the difference between an "oil change" with free multi-point inspection, and an "A1" or "B1" service, for example. Can anyone help clarify this for me?
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    What is the difference between an "oil change" with free multi-point inspection, and an "A1" or "B1" service, for example. Can anyone help clarify this for me?

    Probably not much. First of all, per the owner's manual A only means oil change (no inspection listed.)

    If there is a 1 along with the letter, that's a simple tire rotation.

    B stands for the following:

    Replace engine oil and oil filter

    Inspect front and rear brakes

    Check parking brake adjustment

    Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots

    Inspect suspension components

    Inspect driveshaft boots

    Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)

    Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids

    Inspect exhaust system#

    Inspect fuel lines and connections#

    If they're charging you $50 and not telling you why, I'd look around for somewhere to take the vehicle for scheduled maintenance. I got a coupon in the mail from my Honda dealer for a $25 oil change with multi-point inspection.

    Did they charge you for a tire rotation perhaps? Did you usually get that with the 97?
  • Options
    civictorycivictory Member Posts: 73
    jet10000,

    Thanks for clarifying. You're right; they're charging me for tire rotations, which I was not getting on the old Civic. (Rotations were free at the place I purchased the tires.)

    There's still a bit of a discrepancy in pricing, though... They quoted me $88 for a B-1. The tire rotation/balance accounts for $40 of that, meaning they are charging me $48 for the "B" portion of the service.

    I also received a coupon for a $25 oil change with free 27-point inspection. Any idea if that inspection includes the same items as the "B" service?
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    I also received a coupon for a $25 oil change with free 27-point inspection. Any idea if that inspection includes the same items as the "B" service?

    I don't know if it is exactly the same. I have a 2008 Civic, with 11,000 miles. I've done the A-1 maintenance and am getting close to the next one. (I'm assuming it could be B-1.)

    I will probably just tell them to do the regular oil change with the normal included 27 point inspection for the very reason that I don't want to pay an extra $48 bill for a B inspection.

    I'm very consistent as far as following the schedule in regards to changing oil, fluid, filters, etc., per the maintenance schedule. But with a 2008 that's under factory warranty, the included 27 point inspection I feel should be enough to catch any major items that may be happening with the vehicle.
  • Options
    anitasuesanitasues Member Posts: 1
    I am picking up my first brand new car this afternoon--2008 Honda Civic LX!! I am so excited and I want to take really good care of it so I have a oil change question. So far the car has 12 miles on it--when should I go for the first oil change. I have heard for the first one it should be around 500 miles but I am not sure. :)
  • Options
    civictorycivictory Member Posts: 73
    CONGRATULATIONS! I think you made an excellent choice! I bought a used Civic several years ago. It had 60k miles on it when I bought it. I added 100k miles before I had a single mechanical problem! You do pay a premium for the reliability/reputation; but in my opinion, it's worth it.

    To answer your question... Honda's have an oil life indicator. On your Civic, press the trip odometer button (on the console, to the left of the steering wheel) until you see "Oil Life." The remaining "life" of the oil will be displayed in terms of percentage. Being new, your car should say 100%.

    When the oil life eventually gets to 15%, an orange wrench will light up on your dash indicating it's time for an oil change. The good news is that newer cars can go a lot longer between oil changes. You won't need to change your oil until you reach 5,000 or 6,000 miles.

    Hope that answers your question. Have fun in your new car!
  • Options
    shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    You shouldn't have your oil changed until your service reminder shows that there's 15% or less. It is all explained in your Owner's Manual.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Options
    michael1105michael1105 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know how to reset the Civic 'Maintenance Minder' for the Oil change. I would like to do my own oil and filter changes, but don't know how to reset the stupid computer!

    Thanks

    Mike
  • Options
    shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The procedure is in your Owner's Manual. ;)
  • Options
    sew2sew2 Member Posts: 2
    My first car was a 57 Chevy that wasn't very old. First Civic was a new 1975 model. Many cars in-between, mostly European/Japanese. I've NEVER seen an oil change as difficult as in the Si. I would like to meet the person(s) who allowed it to be that way. Surely it wasn't "designed". The answer is to get a wrench that tightens and grips well to loosen the factory overtightened oil filter. Then tighten the new one as described on the filter; and from then on, you can hand loosen it. I do mine while laying on the garage floor so it is possible to do. Pack rags over all the places that the oil will leak on to IOT minimize a mess, which will occur. After the change, use a degreaser(such as Gunk) on the backside of the engine, if desired, and wash off the oil that will get on the back of the engine/suspension . I still love the car!
  • Options
    david384david384 Member Posts: 3
    Sure have about 5 times. Very easy. Buy 0w20 mobile one syn oil (4 quarts) and a oil filter. Takes about 20 mins. You will use 3.4 quarts of the oil. Saves you a bunch of money. You can even change out the CVT fuild just as easy. You will have to buy the CVT fluid at Honda, but much cheaper. Drain plug for the oil in back right side of moter, and the CVT plug is left side center of moter on bottom. Hope this helps. :)
  • Options
    michael1105michael1105 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, but that would have been the last place I looked! Duh,,,
    Mike
  • Options
    uunfewsuunfews Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX 4Dr that I recently did a flush and fill for the cooling system. During the purging of the air I was told to watch for two cyclings of the radiator cooling fan during idling but this never happened. I however ran it idle with heater core open and blower fan maxed out for over 45 minutes till the bubbling of air at the radioator neck stopped. The car ran fine for a week now with no sign of overheating or gurgling under the dash but I am a bit concern since the gauge needle always stayed just right at the bottom of the water mark and seeing also that the fan never ever kicked on ever. I used to own Toyota before and the gauge usually stay at 1/3 . Now if I turn on the AC then both fans(radiator and condersor) will come on.

    My question is should I be concern? How often should the fan come on when car is at idle speed in 100-110 Farenheit heat say in a given time period? What interval should it come on?

    Thanks for your help.
  • Options
    wsustudentwsustudent Member Posts: 35
    I would not be concerned. Since you were running the blower with the heater core open, you were basically drawing enough heat out of the coolant so the fans would never have to turn on. If you try purging again this time with the heater core open but the blower off, you should see that fan kick on eventually. This has been my experience with both Civics I have owned. It almost seems their cooling system setup is almost "too efficient" because I have sat in traffic in the middle of a Michigan winter and have actually seen my temp. gauge drop almost back down to "C" after about a 30 minute time period which is frustrating to me because the heat output is not as strong with cold antifreeze! I even went through all the steps making sure the thermostat was good and looked over some other stuff and all checked out well.

    When I have done work on my Civics it seemed the fans kicked on for about 30 seconds at a time about every 5 minutes when they were cycling normally with the A/C off. Normally the temp. outside was about 80-95 degrees since I try to only to work on the car in the summer here in MI.
  • Options
    uunfewsuunfews Member Posts: 7
    Hi

    Thanks for the replay except I still can't get it to cycle with the heater core blocked off by shutting down heat and even in 97-107 F outside temperature. Gauge 's needle still pegging at same location though.
  • Options
    edhatchedhatch Member Posts: 2
    I have a '91 civic hatchback. At approx, 63000 miles I had the timing belt and water pump changed out. The car now has 134000 miles. Do I need to install a new belt and pump?

    Is there a maintenance schedule for high mileage civics that I can refer to ?
  • Options
    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Try here: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins.

    Hope this helps!
  • Options
    joconnorjoconnor Member Posts: 26
    Civic DX, DX-V, LX, LX-S, and the EXs require 5W20 oil.
    0W20 oils (fully synthetic) are being advertised as energy efficient and a safe substitution. Can I get some opinions on this? Good? Bad? Only on a new engine? Thanks all.
  • Options
    chillipepper1chillipepper1 Member Posts: 6
    The 0W20 full synthetic oil is used in the hybrid vehicles because the combustion engine is continually turning on and off. The 0w20 oil is supposed to give the car a little better cold temperature (below 0F) starting protection. From what I have read, it will give you no better fuel economy or protect a warm engine any better than 5W20 full synthetic (such as Mobil1 5W20). Since I live in Texas and temperatures never get that cold, I stick with 5W20 synthetic (Mobil1). If I lived in a really cold climate, I would probably use the Mobil1 0W20. I do believe in full synthetic oils as they help keep the engine running cooler, reduce sludge build up, and improve gas mileage.

    You can switch to the synthetic any time, but I would wait until your maintenance minder tells you it is time for your first change. The oil added at the factory is supposed to have some goodies added that are needed for proper engine break in.

    Chillipepper1
  • Options
    minardiminardi Member Posts: 30
    Just replaced the front brakes in my '03 Civic EX(2nd time). 1st was at 40K and now at 77K. Parking brake handle has a lot of travel and probably needs adjustment. I'm planning on replacing the rear drum brakes and think this will solve the travel problem at the same time. Anyone done this adjustment before?
  • Options
    wsustudentwsustudent Member Posts: 35
    Try replacing the shoes first and see if that corrects the problem. The newer, thicker shoe you are going to install may correct the extra travel by itself. If it does cool, if not I'll try to dig up my service manual and I'll post the procedure for you. (I own an 03 as well). I'm surprised you aren't getting better wear performance out of your brake pads. I saw better longevity out of mine. Anyways let me know what you come up with.
  • Options
    minardiminardi Member Posts: 30
    Thanks for the reply. I replaced the rear shoes yesterday. They still had quite a few miles left but were glazed pretty badly. Probably could have roughed them up with emery paper but for about $20, it was worth replacing them. Pep Boys turned the drums for me for free because I bought the shoes(and pads last week) from them. Wish I had rear discs, they're so much easier than drums to overhaul. The parking brake travel is better with the new shoes, but I still need to adjust the rears a little tighter since they are new. If your service manual has the adjustment procedure for new rear shoes, I'd like to see it. Thanks .
  • Options
    hurley1229hurley1229 Member Posts: 3
    Look at Amsoil, I did a lot of research and have changed over. I own a2004 HCH 5 speed.
  • Options
    ldcoburnldcoburn Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2008 civic with 12,500 miles on it. We have had in since Feb. and the mileage is primarily highway miles. She took it in for an oil change last week and they told her she needed a new air filter and a new cabin air filter so she did that as well for an extra $40. She is 16 years old and I am wondering if they took advantage of her selling her things she did not need. Should I go back to the place and talk to them?
  • Options
    jonesbb630jonesbb630 Member Posts: 31
    Unless she drive a lot on dirt roads or construction sites, I would say they got her good. Neither should have to be replaced before 25,000miles in my opinion. I've got the same mileage on my 08 and they better not try this one.
  • Options
    poobbubespoobbubes Member Posts: 6
    There is a maintenance minder sub item (#2) for this. So, she shouldn't need this done unless "2" is displayed on the maintenance minder.

    Here what the manual say about sub item 2:

    Replace air cleaner element
    If you drive in dusty conditions, replace
    every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
    Replace dust and pollen filter
    If you drive primarily in urban areas that have high
    concentrations of soot in the air from industry and
    from diesel-powered vehicles, replace every 15,000
    miles (24,000 km).
    Inspect drive belt
  • Options
    sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Better to educate your 16 year old to read the manual and just do the services called for at that mileage point. Or perhaps she should have called you when they tried to sell her these things. A shame that she bought these things prematurely but she could've just said "no".

    The Sandman :sick:
  • Options
    atlkep1atlkep1 Member Posts: 4
    Is there really something "special" about the oil that comes in a new Civic? And what is it that is so "special" about it?

    I don't think the first oil change is called for until 7500 miles.

    I have always done much more agressive oil changes on new engines (500, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 and every 5000 miles after that), but have been warned off of this for a Honda.

    I just don't understand what could be put into a motor oil that would be beneficial to a new engine, but then, I don't know a whole lot about motor oils.

    Does anyone know what it is that might be different about the oil that comes in a new Civic?

    :confuse: Keith
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    If you sign into the Honda Ownerlink site (ahm-ownerlink.com), in the maintenance FAQ it says:

    Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?

    Your Honda engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.

    American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions.


    And no, the first oil change for a 2009 civic isn't 7,500 miles. It's whenever the maintenance minder indicates it. On my civic it's usually between 5 & 6,000 miles.
  • Options
    atlkep1atlkep1 Member Posts: 4
    But this doesn't really say anything to me.

    Other than the ". . . . may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.", which is why I do so many oil changes at the start of a new engine, to remove those particles so they don't become part of the "natural wear patterns".

    I don't have this car yet, so I was using 7500 because that was the recommended oil change interval on my Odyssey.

    I've never had a car with something that told me when to change the oil. I just do it every 5000 miles, which makes it easy for my wife ("If it ends in a 5 or a 0 I need to know because it's time to change the oil.")

    Thanx for letting me know about the ownerlink site. I wasn't aware of that.

    Keith
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    I've never had a car with something that told me when to change the oil. I just do it every 5000 miles, which makes it easy for my wife ("If it ends in a 5 or a 0 I need to know because it's time to change the oil.")

    With the maintenance minder, when it's time to change the oil, it shows the code in the odometer display and you have to press a button to clear it out of that display until the minder is reset to 100% by the dealership or by yourself if you have the oil change done elsewhere.
  • Options
    iluvmycariluvmycar Member Posts: 1
    I've got the maintenance minder sign activated with a code (B1) on the left. Just wanted to know ballpark how much we need to pay for this service. I bought my car from herb chambers and when i called them up they mentioned 140bucks. This sounds to be ridiculously high amount. Any idea how much it might cost?
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    I've got the maintenance minder sign activated with a code (B1) on the left. Just wanted to know ballpark how much we need to pay for this service.

    The 1 is for a tire rotation. If you look over the list for B, the only thing that is not an inspection is the oil change.

    When an oil change is done at my dealership, they do a fairly detailed list of inspections at no charge anyway and give me a checked off summary sheet of the conditions. So whenever I get a B 1, I just ask for a simple oil change and a tire rotation. Saves me some money over what they'd usually charge for a B1.
  • Options
    kmp7kmp7 Member Posts: 1
    I am way out of my league.........
    I have a 98 Honda wit 106. miles. It spends most of its time in airport parking lots.
    I left it off at a Honda Dealer to get a new headlight and oil change and was contacted later with a list of things that needed to be done ASAP.

    I would really appreciate any feedback on the need and estimates if they sound about right.

    1.)
    I do not know what "bushings" are but I guess they are important. I was told that the rear trailing arm bushings need to be replaced @$668.77.
    2.) Drain and replace brake fluid $133.09
    3.) Drain and replace Power Steering Fluid $151.69
    4.) Replace valve cover gasket and Spark Plugs $176.30

    Just checking on the urgency as it looks like I would be making their weekly budget
    in the service department!

    Thanks for any help.
    kmp7
  • Options
    civictorycivictory Member Posts: 73
    Just my perspective, as I am certainly not an expert...

    1.) If the bushings really are bad, you need to get this done. I would get a second opinion before I spent any money, though.

    2.) Probably not necessary (brake fluid)

    3.) Probably not necessary (power steering fluid)

    4.) Are you leaking oil? The gasket, I think, would correct that. Spark plugs might improve performace, but they are very easy to do yourself, if you're so inclined.

    For the sake of comparison, I had a '97 Civic that I drove into the ground. I traded it in about a year-and-a-half ago with about 180,000 miles. I never did #2, #3, or the gasket; and I never needed the bushings replaced. Granted, that doesn't mean you shouldn't do the brake fluid or power steering; I'm just saying I never did. What ultimately killed my car was a very slow transmission fluid leak that I didn't know about until it was too late... So there is something to be said for routine maintenance, fluid flushes, etc.

    Whatever the case, you're Civic is barely broken in and you should get many more miles out of it. Good luck!
  • Options
    jet10000jet10000 Member Posts: 656
    The brake fluid and the spark plug changes should be done according to the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual.

    You can probably get better prices on everything if you go to a mechanic you can trust.
  • Options
    crazyflycrazyfly Member Posts: 61
    I owned my last civic from about 71,000 miles to 180,000 miles which covers the time period when most maintenance items need to be taken care of, including the ones you mentioned. Based on my experience here are answers to your questions:

    First of, you are correct. You will be helping the Service Dept meet the weekly budget targets, because:

    a) Trailing Arm bushings are good to replace at a future time, but are not critical and not Have to be replaced ASAP. Not having them replaced will affect your tire's alignment and wear n tear so you may check it out later. Perhaps call around and get quote from repair facilities. Sears, Pep Boys or go to Yelp.com and search for independent honda mechanic.

    b) Brake Fluid change / flush:
    This is Important. But there are two things to consider: 1) $133 is too high a price. most honda dealers run specials to do this for $89.99 or $79.99. Call around to get good price. Now the second part (2) check your records to see when was the last time you changed the brake oil. Honda recommends changing this every 3 years regardless of miles driven.if you've changed regularly, then go right ahead and get this done for less than $90.
    But, if you have never had a brake oil changed, thats a whole different ball game. The thing is, old brake oil has aged with the car and its seals, that the new brake oil will be stronger and will cut through the old seals resulting in a failure of master cylinder ($600), aka brake failure.. thats a life threatening situation. I had this exact thing happened to me and then later to my brother to his 2000 civic. perhaps you can benefit from experience. Ask the tech how bad is the brake oil? Take your car to other shop and get second opinion. If you can hold off on this, thats great, but if you must change right away, keep checking your master cylinder for any brake oil leaks.

    c) Power Steering Fluid:
    Thats just total BS. Honda does not recommend changing P/S fluid, and you will notice that in the Scheduled Maintenance' section of the owners manual that p/s fluid change is not mentioned. The Honda service dept cooks this up to get your money. I talked to the Honda Master tech I've known for 10 years and these were his words. He recommended I don't change the p/s fluid.

    d) Valve Cover Gasket and Spark Plugs:
    These items are usually done when changing the timing belt of the car. Check the scheduled maintenance section of your owner's manual to see when timing belt is due. At that time you'll also need to get the water pump changed.

    CONCLUSION:
    If you are not married to your civic, the time has come to think about replacing it. Even though the miles are low, it still is a 10 year old vehicle and things are going to start going south soon. In the next 3 to 6 months you will need:

    a) Trailing Arm Bushings - $600
    b) Brake Fluid change - $ 90
    c) Master Cylinder change - $600
    d) Timing Belt package (timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, gasket etc) $1000

    In total you'll end up spending about $2300 on the car in 6 months with more to come soon. If I were you, I would consider the possibility to replace this car. Take the $2300 you need to fix this car, + about $5k you can get by selling it, you can make that a down payment on a new(er) vehicle that will not have these many issues.
  • Options
    midway54midway54 Member Posts: 11
    I recently bought a civic LX-S with Continental tires. The car runs fine but the tires are very noisy..Are Continentals just lower quality and run noisy? Has anybody else had a similar issue with these tires.My wife also has a civic but it came with Goodyear RS-A tires which seem quieter..Any suggestions on what I can do..I do not want to go spend 400 on new tires..Any suggestions would be appreciated...
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles