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Hyundai Azera Transmission

ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292
edited March 2014 in Hyundai
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First, the seat preset switches only work with the ignition turned on.The seats are substantially flat and are lacking in adjust ability.

Other issues I had include rough idling, lulls in RPM before shifting, inconsistent shifting.


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I agree with these issues. I would add that all electronics are disabled without the key. I don't like it. I like to run the radio without the key and be able to charge the cell phone via the 12 v outlets without the ignition on. These certainly ARE annoyances.

Also, I've noticed lulls before shifts - especially when the engine is cold. Usually I can control shifts with manipulation of the accelerator, but I haven't been able to do that well with the Azera. There seems to be some hesitation as if the transmission is trying to decide whether to shift or not. The shifts are, for me, too smooth and seem to take forever to glide into the next gear. If you push on the accelerator when this "glide" is happening, it's almost as if the engine and transmission can't decide what to do.

However, I haven't noticed rough idling when the engine is warm and I have no problem with the feel of the brakes.
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Comments

  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    Agreed that it would be nice to enable memory setting before entry into the car; however if you get the EZ out programmed correctly, when you leave the car the seat goes 3/4 way back and steering wheel recedes to maximum...for easy entry for the largest driver on the next entry even before custom settings....so that offsets it a bit. Only problem is that most of the service departments don't have a clue about how to program that setting!!

    Ric...As for transmission "hesitation"...it is my understanding that the transmission "learns" somewhat from the way it has been drive over time. Did your car have some miles on it (showroom, transit etc.) where someone might have driven in a way to cause this "behavior." Mine is not hesitant at all....very smooth and downshifts decisively and upshifts almost un-noticeable, but not with any slush or hesitation. Have you tried to manu-shift? Perhaps using that for a while will "program" it for the kind of shifting you prefer? Again, this is something where it would be nice if Hyundai USA Marketing and Service had help orientation sessions for both sales, management and service people BEFORE the first sets of cars were on the road. Collectively on this board, we know a lot more than 99.9% of the Hyundai dealership personnel. We have read the technical service bulletins, but they seemingly have not. Most car manufacturers invite at least one salesperson and the manager, as well as a service manager or tech out to a proving ground to demo a new model and go through all features and "issues" from A to Z (sorry). I received a detailed questionnaire from Hyundai USA today about my 1/31 purchase and basically I gave the car an A and the sales experience an A, but the rest of the dealership and knowledge of car an F minus. Disgraceful.
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292
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    As for transmission "hesitation"...it is my understanding that the transmission "learns" somewhat from the way it has been drive over time. Did your car have some miles on it (showroom, transit etc.) where someone might have driven in a way to cause this "behavior."

    My car had over 400 miles on it when I purchased it. I haven't heard about the "learning" transmission. That's interesting. How is that supposed to work? I guess I can shift manually for a while and see if that helps "reprogram" the transmission to my liking.

    I also noticed that the throttle response on the Azera is fairly tame for the first 20% but then snaps fairly sharply into a burst of power just beyond that. Has anybody else noticed that? So, when I'm pulling from a dead stop, I can either take it very slowly and smoothly, or, if I push it just a tad too much, it darts forward -- even spinning the wheels some and then I have to back off because I didn't intend to go THAT quickly. In other words, the "mid-ground" of acceleration is hard to find. Either its "slow as she goes" or it's "launch time."

    I will get used to it and learn to adapt, but, right now, it is quite a bit different than my smooth V6 passat which had a much more predictable and controllable throttle response and gear shift.
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    Ric, I am 99.9% sure this car has an "adaptive transmission" which means there is software which "learns" your driving patterns and changes the shift points. Here is a review of a car which has it: " the five-speed automatic is adaptive: Drive it gently, and it will shift up sooner, rewarding you with smooth acceleration and good gas mileage (20/26 mpg EPA City/Highway). If you're constantly on the throttle, the transmission learns that you like to drive quickly and will hold itself in each gear for more sprightly acceleration." Thus, if it had previously been driven by several drivers it may have curious "programming". If your dealer has a good tech, you should ask them if they can re-set the "brain" to learn your pattern from zero.
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    From the spec sheet: "5-Speed Electronically Controlled Manually Interactive, Adaptive Automatic Transmission" The "adaptive" is the learning transmission which changes shift points/patterns based on how it is driven. I suggest, if you have confidence that the service department knows its stuff, you ask them to "zero out" the prior driving experience and start fresh; then drive it in your most frequent "scenario" as often as you can after that to "break it in." Good Luck (posting on this board is a royal pain....not sure if it is my computer but keeps telling me that I made a blank post....but sometimes it shows and sometimes not. )
  • zed421vzed421v Member Posts: 28
    If you disconnect car battery for a few hours, transmission appears to relearn. I had same problem and did this it seemed to help.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    If the memory seat position was set for a short person who last exited the car with the EZ exit feature, the seat will return to that position when the key is turned on. If the next person sitting in the drivers seat is tall or stout, the seat will move forward and crunch them while moving toward the short persons setting as soon as they turn the ignition on. This movement cannot be cancelled by pushing the other button.
  • plwilliamsplwilliams Member Posts: 96
    That's how my Pathfinder works as well. :cry:
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    That is correct....so depending on the sequence of drivers, if there are two with very different settings (kind of like leaving the toilet seat up or down for the next user?) you need to dope that out between them if that should be the case. I completely agree that it is much better (and should have been doped out by Hyundai) for the fob to pre-set the memory preferences before the driver enters....but that cannot be retro-fixed as the car is not wired for it (just as it is not set up for the pedal adjustments to be integrated into the memory system or the mirrors to tilt down without MAJOR work)....so this board helps us all become a little bit creative in maximizing the "workarounds" for whatever doesn't work for us. Another issue is the lack of Blue Tooth and I know that Motorola has a Blue Tooth Module.....but don't know how it integrates with the system and how a "hands free" integrates to do an automatic radio pause when phone rings etc. Will try and begin to dope that one out as an in-car, hands-free phone is something I would like to have, without a "Rube Goldberg" solution
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Memory seat:
    According to the Service Manager at my local dealership, the memory seat function without key in ignition can be retro fixed. It probably will require a relay being installed to activate the computer without the ignition turned on. He informed me that he is a member of the Hyundai engineering committee, and that he will pursue the problem. More complaints to Hyundai US will generate more attention to owner concerns.
  • lhalstromlhalstrom Member Posts: 12
    Still haven't gone through a half tank of gas yet, but the Average Fuel Consumption Display feature registered 33.3 mpg at the end of a 60 mile freeway trip through the mountains of Montana. I reset the display at the beginning of the trip. This engine only has about 170 miles on it too. Still breaking it in mode, not exceeding 55mph for the first 1200 miles.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Don't know why you're keeping it below 55 mph, the book only says to run the engine between 2000 & 4000 rpm...not to exceed 4000 rpm. You can drive at your normal speeds, just don't do the hard starts/stops. The reasoning...you want the transmission to "learn" your style of driving so that the shift points will set. If you drive one way now and then change up after the break in period...you'll need to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to let the transmission reset and re-teach it.
  • lhalstromlhalstrom Member Posts: 12
    My owners manual says not to exceed 55mph. It also says not to exceed 4000rpm in any gear. The 55mph is typical for most engine breakin speeds. They don't want you to rev the engine past 4000 if you are using the sportshift mode through the gears and not to exceed 55mph. The driver adaptive shift logic of the transmission will not be affected by what your top end speed is, only how fast you got it there to 5th. The harder you give it the gas determines your shift point memory. I am not a lead foot, so my shift point memory will be different than a person who floors it to get to 55mph.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    Exactly my point...just drive it easy, but not like you're driving Miss Daisy!!! ;)
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292
    My owners manual says not to exceed 55mph. It also says not to exceed 4000rpm in any gear.

    Hmmm. . . My owner's manuals states there IS NO formal "break-in" for the engine.
  • lhalstromlhalstrom Member Posts: 12
    I really don't understand your point. :confuse: You assume I would want to drive the way you do and say I'll need to disconnect the battery to erase the driving style I believe is best for my vehicle's longevity, me, my pocket book and energy conservation. In fact my driving style is what your owners manual recommends for energy conservation. That's what I want my driver adaptive shift logic to memorize. It's not your decision to say how people should drive their cars, when you say not to drive it "like you are driving Miss Daisy". ;)
  • 101649101649 Member Posts: 192
    Check section 1-3 in the manual...55mph and rpms between 2k and 4k...for the initial break in.
  • allmet33allmet33 Member Posts: 3,557
    You're really reading into it a little too much. The point is...the manual says to keep the rpm's below 4000 in any gear. You can exceed 55 mph and keep the tach under 4000. :surprise:

    To assume that I've told anyone how to drive is perposterous! The quip about "driving Miss Daisy" wasn't to be meant literally, but then again, you may be one of those that live in a literal world...my apologies if you took offense. :shades:

    The only thing I stated was that if you do drive easy in the beginning, and it's not your normal style, then you would maybe want to disconnect the battery so that the transmission can reset and then you can drive normal so that it may "learn". ;)

    So...sit back, take a deep breath, play some Yani and relax. Wait a minute...scratch that, you may think I'm "TELLING" you what to do again. I would also hate to think that I'm telling you that you even like Yani to begin with. Oh...what the heck, do it anyway! :P

    As far as driving style, I live in the DC area and I drive in a manner that allows me to flow with traffic and not be the one holding it up. Simply put, I drive to survive! ;)
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292
    Check section 1-3 in the manual...55mph and rpms between 2k and 4k...for the initial break in.

    Here's what the manual states:

    During the First 1,200 miles (2,000 Km).

    No formal "break-in" procedure is required with your new Hyundai. However, you can contribute to the economical operation and durability of your Hyundai by observing the following recommendations during the frist 1,200 miles (2,000 km).

    * Don't drive faster than 55 MPH (88 km/h)
    * While driving, keep your engine speed (rpm or revolutions per minute) between 2,000 rpm and 4,000 rpm)
    * Use moderate acceleration. Don't start quickly or depress the accelerator pedal fully.
    * For the first 200 miles (300 km) try to avoid hard stops.
    * Whether doing fast or slow, vary your speed from time to time.
    * Don't let the engine idle longer than 3 minutes at one time
    * Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km) of operation.

    I guess it's best to do what you can. A lot of those recommendations are unrealistic. If a deer jumps in front of your Azera, you're going to probably "hard brake". Keeping the rmp between 2,000 and 4,000 is almost impossible. Never letting the car idle for more than 3 minutes can be difficult in some situations. Keeping the speed under 55 can actually be dangerous on some freeways.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Just got home from Hyundai Dealership. I asked them about resetting or zeroing out the computer setting that controls the shift points for the transmission. After doing some research, he determined that it can't be zeroed out.
    If anyone has been given different information, I would appreciate your sharing it.
  • mechanic80mechanic80 Member Posts: 122
    I don't know if it CAN'T be reset/erased, but I can tell you than in the 9 weeks of driving my Azera it has learned my driving habits. (I bought it with 336 miles and it had learned "old lady" shifts) It no longer "levels off" with a slow shift between 1 and 2. I like acceleration, and it now has a pronounced, crisp, almost snap of a 1-2 shift and the subsequent shift points are at higher RPMs like I like it. It has taken almost 2 months of driving to learn, so be patient. I really don't know if using the manumatic function more has any affect on the learning curve, but it was lots of fun. ;)
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292
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    My shifts on the transmission just don't "feel right." I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and reconnected in hopes that the "learning points" were reset. I didn't notice any difference, however, afterward.

    Shifts are mushy and inconsistent -- both down-shifting and up-shifting. RPMs surge up and down even within the same gear.

    Example: I'm traveling up a hill at 40 MPH. In 5th gear it is at about 1300 RPM. I push on the gas more to keep it at 40MPH, I notice a definite down-shift and surge and the RPMs go up to about 2200 RPM. But then I put it in the "manual" shift position and I notice that I'm still in 5th gear. Odd, because I "felt" a definite down shift and surge.

    So, then I DO down-shift manually to 4th. The RPMs jump to about 2500 and then fall drastically to about 1600, yet my speed hasn't changed. It's almost like the transmission slipped for a moment and then caught on.

    I keep it manually in 4th gear and push on the gas to accelerate and then there is the "feel" of a down-shift" and the RPMs jump back up to about 2200, yet the instrumentation indicates I'm still in 4th gear. I then take my foot off the gas completely, and there's a "lag" feeling (almost like the engine's going to die) and the RPMS bounce way down to about 1200. I press on the gas again and I surge forward and the RPMs bounce up to 2200. All of this while still manually in 4th gear.

    Then I shift to fifth gear manually and there's a definite shift down and the RPMs drop to about 1200.

    But all of these "shifts" and "surges" and "lags" and RPM changes all within the SAME gear is odd to me. And I can do these things in ANY gear. It's like I have 20 total gears all going up and down all over the place while I'm driving.

    I'm used to my Passat which was very predictable in shifting while in the automatic mode. I could easily manipulate the accelerator to precisely change the shift point. And in the manual mode was very crisp and clean when I up or down shifted. The Azera is just the opposite and I'm having a very hard time getting used to it.
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    That's lame. Just pull over to the side and shoot it.
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    I am NOT a mechanic...however, it is my understanding that there are two "influences" on the way your transmission shifts:
    a.) the "Transmission Control Module" which picks up information from other systems in the car (which are independent of your own particular driving habits)
    b.) "Adaptive" mechanism for the transmission which DOES change over time with your own driving behavior (not sure if it serves as additional input to the Transmission Control Module or whether this is another unit?)

    In any event, it is my understanding further that:
    a.) The Transmission Control Module can be checked and modified (if necessary) with their scanning tools
    b.) The "memory" for the transmission can be erased by disconnecting the battery (however, that also will force you to re-enter a lot of other information which should be on some kind of separate battery back-up, but is not!!)

    I would try and get some response from Hyundai USA about getting your transmission to perform more to your liking. I do know that there was a major issue years ago with harsh shifting Hyundai transmissions that led to a class-action lawsuit....so they will probably be sensitive to helping in this area, since it seems like you and Ric are having the opposite problem (too subtle?)

    I am coming from a BMW 740iL which really kicks you in the pants when you downshift, so it is hard for me to make a judgement as to whether this is correct behavior, but mine is also quite "smooth" whereas I would rather have the more pronounced downshifts.
  • tinydog1tinydog1 Member Posts: 83
    What you are probably experiencing when you feel a slight downshift but still in the same gear is the torque converter unlocking. Lock-up occurs at about 35+mph depending on model and driving situation. New trannys are designed to hold gears longer to prevent hunting and maximize fuel economy. I use the manual shift mode on my Azera daily because I have a 200ft hill to climb in my neighborhood, I live on the top of the hill, with 2 speed bumps on the way up, so I got tired of being in 3rd at 15mph after slowing to go over bumps. I downshift to 2nd right before hitting the speedbump and the car accelerates briskly without lags. I have to do that on my 2006 Sonata LX and had to do it on my 2003 Sonata LX and 2004 XG350L.
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    With our recent discussion of the transmission, it is ironic that in an overall highly favorable review of the Azera in Friday's Wall Street Journal, the highest praise is: "a smooth-shifting five speed transmission helps mak accelerating, passing and climbing steep hills seem fairly effortless by allowing the engine to make less noticeable transitions from one gear to the next." I guess one man's minus is another man's plus?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and reconnected in hopes that the "learning points" were reset. I didn't notice any difference, however, afterward. ... Shifts are mushy and inconsistent -- both down-shifting and up-shifting. RPMs surge up and down even within the same gear."

    Starting with late 2004 or early 2005 production, disconnecting the battery no longer erases the TCM's "learned" shift quality programming in Hyundai automatic transmissions. That can only be accomplished now using the High-Scan code reader/reprogrammer tool. Much of the "mushy" shifting in your new transmission is the result of brand new clutch facings that are still establishing a full seat against their driven plates. It'll get better. Still, you might wanna check your AT fluid level on the off chance it's a bit low. Your owner's manual gives instructions and it isn't rocket science. Use ONLY SP-III ATF for top up if necessary. NEVER fill above the full mark on the ATF dipstick. Some of your phantom shifts when ascending a slight grade at ~40mph could well be nothing more than torque converter lockup kicking out. That speed is about where TCL is engaged, so if the engine is pulling, the trannie may "hunt".
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    The Azera was favorably reviewed in the Wall Street Journal yesterday. Although they did not like the wind deflector and faux wood finishes the review was generally upbeat.

    “After driving several large, top-of-the-line sedans in the past couple of years, some costing more than $80,000, we wondered whether the new, $28,000 Hyundai Azera might put them all to shame. That didn't happen.

    “…Handling is reasonably sharp, and the car's suspension, while too soft for vigorous sport-sedan-style driving, gives a nice combination of isolation from bumps and feedback from the road.”

    “…The Azera appears to mark the end of buyers having to explain their reasons for buying a Hyundai. Where previous models lagged behind the competition in design, quality and performance, the Azera is at least on par with rivals. We also think it has a prettier shape than many competitors. Its low cost is simply icing on the cake.”

    Nonetheless, at $28K the Azera is too expensive and I would never buy it regardless of what the Wall Street Journal says.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Member Posts: 1,190
    Right again!
    The only resetting of the "Adaptive" shifting is to reenter the current settings if the transmission is replaced. Why one would want to do this is beyond me.
    The Hyundai computer tool can't accomplish this task
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    You say "at $28K the Azera is too expensive and I would never buy it "

    Not sure I understand why, unless you are so conscious of the brand-status that you would rather drive a different name that you think projects a different image for yourself?

    1.) I have not seen an unfavorable review from ANY source...Every reviewer (knowledgeable car people who do this for a living) have heaped varying degrees of praise and have ESPECIALLY noted that the car is anything but "too expensive". The Wall Street Journal mentioned about $5,000-$7,000 if I recall, as the value excess.
    2.) I have not seen one purchaser amongst ALL of the ones who have posted on this forum and have posted almost 100 reviews, indicate they have had ANY serious problem with the car during the first 1,000-4,000 miles. Truly amazing.
    3.) The feature set found on the Limited Ultimate, which includes such nice touches as:
    rain-sense windshield wipers, light-sense headlight control, true driver/passenger A/C-heat individual settings with rear-passenger outlets, high-quality air filter, rear window automatic sunshade, 310 watt (read carefully--310 watt) Infinity Stereo with 6 disc in-dash CD, plays MP3 discs and reads codes, stereo cassette, full-size spare (thank you!), fold-down rear seats with huge 16 cu ft. trunk to boot (bad pun), power side mirror retractors, real leather seats with nice stitching, memory settings for power seat, electric tilt/telescope steering column and sideview mirrors, expensive Gentex rearview mirror with electronic compass and homelink built in, eyeglass holder, only car in its class with electric tilt/telescope steering wheel and EZ-out programming; electronic stability control, anti-lock brakes, all airbags and side gear, cruise control, active-restraint headrests, 0-60 in around 6.5 seconds, 5 year 60k bumper-bumper warranty, sunroof/moonroof, ergonomically-pleasant (as the WSJ also emphasized...nice car to spend a lot of time in!!), good looking, huge interior space with giant back seat and legroom.....

    I can understand if you just don't like Hyundai, don't like "foreign" cars, don't like the styling...but when you say it is "too expensive" I don't understand what you are talking about. Car can be bought out the door as above for $27,500 approx. If depreciation has you worried, and you don't intend to own the car more than 4-5 years (at which time you will overcome depreciation for an Avalon with difference in price) then you can lease the car....but TOO EXPENSIVE??? NO WAY JOSE
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    As I have said before the Azera might be a nice car for someone moving up from a Chevy or Saturn but a definite step down from an Avalon or even an Accord EX or Camry XLE. In my opinion, the Sonata is a much better deal in terms of price, features and performance.

    Obviously, Azera owners must find a way to justify shelling out $27-$28K for a $20,000 car. But in no way is the Azera an entry luxury sedan.
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel Member Posts: 19,290
    Obviously, Azera owners must find a way to justify shelling out $27-$28K for a $20,000 car. But in no way is the Azera an entry luxury sedan.

    Obviously you have not been inside or driven an Azera.

    2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D

  • joe97joe97 Member Posts: 2,248
    You would be surprised once you step into the Azera and take for a spin. This is absolutely competivie with the rest of the full size sedans; maybe even better by offering so much for so little :)
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Member Posts: 559
    Just go out and buy your M45 or BMW or Mercedes or whatever it is you think is so worth your money. Why hang around here with us lowlifes?
    I don't think any of us in here REALLY care what car you end up with, but whatever it is, enjoy it!
    You might want to spend some time in the rooms of those cars you do like instead of in one of which you think is so bad for the money.
    Just curious though, if you had to spend ONLY $22,000 to $30,000 for a new large luxurious powerful car with lots of up-to-date features, on what WOULD you spend it? (and not a Sonata LX since it is available for SO much less $)
  • ricwhitericwhite Member Posts: 292
    As I have said before the Azera might be a nice car for someone moving up from a Chevy or Saturn but a definite step down from an Avalon or even an Accord EX or Camry XLE.

    image

    Interesting perspective. In our extended family, we have a Lexus 450, Lexus 330 and a Hyundai Azera. When we're all together and it's time for all of us to go out, guess which vehicle everybody wants to take? Yep, the Azera.

    Sure, one reason might be that the Azera is the "newest" vehicle of the bunch and it's still a "novelty." But, everyone is very impressed with the looks, the finish and the ride of the Azera -- And these comments are coming from Lexus owners.

    I have had no major problems with the Azera and it's certainly a step above my previous VW Passat. I very much look forward to driving and even find excuses to take a spin.

    However, with that said, there are a few items that bother me a little. One is the uncertainty of the crash data (#1 on my list). Another is the rather poorer than expected gas mileage. I drive about 70% city and I'm averaging around 17-18. With my Passat V6, I averaged about 22. And the other issue is with the transmission which I'm still uncomfortable with.

    None of my "issues" have to do with a mechanical problem. They are just overall issues for me and the Azera.

    With my month with the Azera, I can declare that it's the best car I ever owned and a "step up" over my Passat.

    But I respect other viewpoints. If somebody feels the Azera is a step down over a Camry, then so be it. Everybody has different needs and expectations. However, the "professional" testers of vehicles have been very impressed with the Azera and would certainly differ with that opinion.
  • bigo08bigo08 Member Posts: 102
    Azera might be a nice car for someone moving up from a Chevy or Saturn ???

    Are you kidding, you think getting a Azera is moving up from Chevy or Saturn?? nah i dont think, the Impala can run circles around the Azera. the Azera as a nice car, but a little overpriced 20 to 25k is more reasonable, you can get a 300 Touring for tha kind of money, never thougt id see the day where Hyundai would be asking 30k for a car. i do agree with you about the Azera not beign a entry lux car.
  • frazeefrazee Member Posts: 90
    Ric, I dug up this article (about a month old) about Sonata crash test results and note that Hyundai DID recall and fix vehicles to correct the problem for that situation, SO...perhaps, if the test results for the Azera were due to some seat "issues" they will do the same here!! FYI

    "When the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (www.iihs.org) crash-tested a 1996 Hyundai Sonata some years ago, the car did poorly. The passenger compartment buckled, and the crash dummy's head almost hit the windshield pillar.

    A few years later, the IIHS crash tested a 1999 Sonata, a new generation of the car. This time, the Sonata did better overall, but the Insurance Institute rated the car's front-crash performance "marginal," because the car's structure didn't do enough to protect the dummy's legs, and the metal around the passenger compartment -- the "safety cage" -- showed signs of considerable buckling.

    Last night the Insurance Institute released a test of the 2006 Hyundai Sonata, a redesigned car being assembled at a new Hyundai factory in Alabama. This time, the Institute tested the car twice. In the first test, the seat flopped back and forth during the crash because the seatbelt got tangled in the seat-adjustment lever. Hyundai engineers redesigned the lever, AND RECALLED ALL CARS MADE BEFORE Aug. 1, 2005 to fix the old design.

    The Institute retested the car, and gave it a good front-crash rating. Video shows how the new Sonata's front end crumpled from the force of hitting a barrier at 40 miles per hour. But the cage around the dummy driver – framed by the driver's side window -- looks almost intact.

    The new Sonata also did better on side-impact tests, improving to "acceptable" from the "poor" rating handed to the previous-generation car. One reason: The new Sonata has standard side-curtain airbags for the front and rear seats, and standard side airbags to protect the torso. The Sonata is one of the few cars with a base price below $20,000 to offer standard side-curtain airbags"
  • deeperbluedeeperblue Member Posts: 11
    I wonder if anybody experienced this problem. I had the limited ultimate for 2 weeks, and kinda suspected that my tranny has a hesitation issue. Every time when I tried to shift from R to D, I felt a half second delay before I could drive forward. Also, when using the manual shift, there was a delay of 0.5 sec as well during 2-1 down shift. Up-shift on the other hand, was smooth. TSB said cars made before 2/13/06 had the 1-2 delay problem, while mine was made in Mar.
    I could also feel the steering vibrating slightly when stopped & in gear with no A/C on. I don't know if this is normal. I am planning to have the dealer checked out the car soon. Any advise/experiences ar most appreciated!
  • louie7louie7 Member Posts: 22
    driving 2500 miles so far, no hesitation problems, mine madee in April or May.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "Every time when I tried to shift from R to D, I felt a half second delay before I could drive forward. Also, when using the manual shift, there was a delay of 0.5 sec as well during 2-1 down shift."

    I'm not saying you don't have a problem, but I'm not convinced you do, either. A half second may be in the realm of normal operation. It takes some time, regardless how brief, for the pump to pressurize the appropriate clutches once the valve body solonoids activate for a shift or mode change. At engine idle speed, that delay might be perceptably longer. There's also the matter of tranny clutch materials running-in to their full adhesion properties. (Their milled surfaces are somewhat soft, initially, and slip a bit in the takeup transitions. I had a hard time distinguishing my '03 Sonata's shifts at all for the first couple of weeks. After a thousand miles, they became consistently noticeable - but still creamy smooth, even to this day. Hyundai definitely got shift quality right on mine.) Finally, your "fuzzy logic" TCM mapping is slowly learning your driving characteristics. Definitely have your dealer check it out, though. Maybe drive a well run-in demo for comparison while you're there, too.
  • deeperbluedeeperblue Member Posts: 11
    Thanks a lot Ray. Got ur point. Though what I still don't feel comfortable is the fact that except 2-1 shift, all other shifts (3-2 4-3 1-2...) are OK. The only noticable delay is from 2-1 shift which coincides with the TSB's 1-2 tranny problem. You are right, I should drive an already broken-in car for comparison.
  • ratledgeratledge Member Posts: 233
    Yep, but the TSB is specifically for shifting from 1st into 2nd shift-up under wide-open throttle. Other than that, it does not address any transmission problems...
  • tonycdtonycd Member Posts: 223
    Wonderful post by ray h1. He's proving to be a formidable resource for everyone who enjoys this board, specifically including me.

    You might want to run a search of this forum, too. There were a lot of earlier posts about how the "learning" aspect of the tranny might be mis-taught by a succession of test drivers before you ever took delivery of the car. The dealer can reset this so it can learn your habits from scratch, though knowledgeable posts indicate it's not as simple a task as disconnecting the battery as some have thought.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    --"...posts indicate it's not as simple a task as disconnecting the battery as some have thought..."--

    Briefly disconnecting the battery's negative terminal used to wipe the TCM's volatile memory and less than a minute was sufficient. However, Hyundai responded to owner complaints that whenever the battery was disconnected for replacement or other electrical repair procedures, sometimes at advanced accumulated mileage*, their transmissions shifted like poop afterward. Hyundai's response in mid-2004 was to use non-volatile memory in the TCM to store shift point/quality mapping. To erase the accumulated mapping now requires active intervention with the handy-dandy HighScan code-reader/reprogramming tool.

    *Adaptive learning also elliminates the need for periodic trips back to the dealership for transmission band adjustments. The good news is that "takeup" over the service life of the transmission is essentially continuous. The not-so-good news for owners of pre-2004 Hyundai automatics is that, should the battery be disconnected at some advanced accumulated mileage, "getting back" to previously established shift patterns with currently established clutch facing wear, is likely to be a somewhat drawn-out process...
  • pahefner01pahefner01 Member Posts: 202
    My wife's nephew just got a Chevy dealership and I researched the Impala SS which is the only comparable Impala to the Azera. It still doesn't have many of the features of the Azera such as seat and mirror memory and numerous other features. When you actually price the cars out at invoice and what it can be purchased for the invoice on the Impala SS is higher than the Azera. I drove an Impala LT new rental car when travelling in May. The LT has cloth interior and is severely lacking on horsepower and the cloth interior is very bland. The car also handled like a boat. I've also driven my cousins Saturns, more than one, and there is no comparison to even the Hyundai Sonata. I asume you are a Chevy person which is okay but facts are required for posting a message. Don't we all know that the sticker price on cars is not the real price. Also the Hyundai warranty is worth a lot. I've driven both the Impala and researched both before buying. I bought a 2002 XG350L as an "experiment" and the car was still running flawleslly when I traded it. I had no problems with the car other than a wheel bearing which is not unommon on any car. My job allows me to drive many types of cars and I've driven the Impala, Chysler 300 and many others. That's the reason I'm driving an Azera limited.
    I realize this reply might not make you happy but it simply states the facts. :)
  • windycity7windycity7 Member Posts: 24
    my 2006 Azera with 4900 miles started up and the check eng light came on as well as the ESC. pushing the ESC did not turn it off.
    as i drove, there was almost no acceleration. pulled over and had Hyundai road service tow it to the dealer. any idea what this is? dealer can't look at it until tomorrow.
    They did provide a loaner (brand new sonata V6 but its not my Azera!?!)
  • windycity7windycity7 Member Posts: 24
    this turned out to be a problem with the gas pedal assembly - P2106 and was replaced with no problem. no charge. apparently some earlier Azeras have this problem - mine is a Dec 05 manufacture date.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Glad the "problem" turned out relatively benign. Hyundai transmission control modules (the "brain" that governs shift points) have a "limp-home" mode that restricts operation to reverse and 3rd gear (maybe 4th gear in 5-sp units - not sure) when forcing gear changes in a broken tranny might result in additional damage. As you can imagine, with forward progress restricted to one of the higher gears, the car would behave like a slug, but, at least, would get you home or to the dealer. That was my first thought as I read your original post, but it turned out not to be a tranny problem. Well done! :D
  • roadkingtc88roadkingtc88 Member Posts: 21
    I had the TSB applied to my Ultimate, and the 1-2 shift is now crisp, similar to other shifts. It now shifts correctly no matter how much throttle. It is lightyears better than it was prior to this, which had a long interval between the shift with a seeming increase in rpm. Not sure about the downshift.
  • kdzubakdzuba Member Posts: 1
    my 06 has 2400 miles. It is great everyway but at cold and low speed operation which is very poor. It seems to hesitate a lot and feels like it doesn't know whether to upshift or down shift and just seems to "flutter" doing neither without pushing gas to it. Very hard to describe (cause its erratic) but, to me, feels kinda like there is somekind of vacuum problem. I might also say it feels like it's "missing" Open road mileage is good at 29 or 30 but 150 miles of that type of driving will drop to 21 or 22 (overall trip mileage)with 50 miles of semi-city driving (urban stop and go). I know this can't be common as all the reviews would have commented on it.....Anyone got a thought....can't afford to pull over and shoot it!
  • sergio19sergio19 Member Posts: 90
    I was just wondering if I'm the only one here that my Azera will NOT downshift from 3rd gear to 2nd gear.
    If I do NOT come to a full stop and give gas my car will continue from 3rd gear. I have never seen it go from 3rd to 2nd gear and my mechanic says it's normal.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks
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