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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • boilingpointboilingpoint Member Posts: 1
    I think that I am having a similar issue with my impala. I recently had to have a radiator flush due to a mix of red and green coolants which, incidentally I didn't know that they attacked each other and congealed. Anyhow, ever since my car over heated ( a result of the mixed coolants) I have had any issue when my car gets near the half way point on temp gauge. I have gotten out of my vehicle while it is running to check the mail and then have it die on me. And it would not start again until it had cooled a little. My mechanic has burned two tanks of gas trying to repeat this intermitant problem, with no success. But, of course every time my wife has the car with our newborn, it does it. I told my mechanic about what temp the problem occurs at and he told me that was an ideal temp for my car. I dont get it, my mechanic doesn't get it and I'm just getting more angry by the moment. The car is a 2002 with 33,000 miles on it. It shouldn't be doing this. If anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    I think you have two different problems. if your temperature gauge gets to the halfway point thats normal. If it exceeds the halfway point and doesn't come below within a minute you might have a thermostat or water pump problem. I don't think there is a short term problem with mixing the two coolants. In the long haul the different properties can cause corrosion.

    I would go to a certified radiator shop or chevrolet dealership and have them check out your cooling system. The stalling problem is probably something else.
  • impala2002impala2002 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 Impala LS with around 34,000 miles on it [out of warranty]. Nowadays, I notice that when accelerating, it seems to stall. If I stay below the 2000RPM range, then it seems to be fine - but the moment the quick push of the accelerator gets the RPM around 3000, there is a stalling [most noticeable with the AC running]. I also feel a slight flutter at lower speeds when accelerating.

    I did change the air filter at around 30,000 miles and things were fine. I also tried a bottle of Chevron Techroline cleaner but that didn't help.

    In terms of my automotive repair choices, I seem to have two main choices:

    1. Get the dealer to perform a diagnostic at around $96
    2. Speculatively replace the fuel filter and get fuel injection service at around ($140 combined)

    I checked the maintenance schedule and it doesn't seem to have anything on fuel filter and fuel injection service schedule. From general experience, are these generally required at this mileage - i.e. by going for option 2, am I essentially throwing money away or it is a good thing to do anyway at this mileage and if it fixes the problem, then I save the diagnostic fee?

    By the way, in my discussion with the dealer, he also mentioned transmission fluid replacement - but the maintenance manual calls that out at 50,000 in city/towing/hilly area [I do live in a hilly area]. So is 34,000 miles too soon for that?

    Thanks in advance for any tips and guidance!
  • topazesqtopazesq Member Posts: 3
    Well, the dealer finally figured out it was the fuel pump that went (after 3 others told me it was the fuel pump and my regular mechanic and the dealer said, no its not that). It had better be the fuel pump b/c its costing me close to $700 b/c I'm at the dealer and the car isn't drivable.

    Maybe Ladyimpala's car has a fuel pump issue?
  • louannelouanne Member Posts: 2
    hi
    had the same problem two weeks after i got my car. the dealership fix it. they had to reseal the bottom of the windshield. it has be ok since. i know that you dont want to pay for this but any glass company should be able to fix the problem. someone else i know had the same problem but his was the incabin filter that was stopped up. this is located on the passagener side at bottom of windshield. i hope they fix the problem. good luck
  • louannelouanne Member Posts: 2
    my 2002 IMPALA WILL NOT START SOMETIMES IT CRANKS BUT KINDA ACTS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING GAS. MY HUSBAND THINKS IT IS NOT GETTING FIRE BUT EVERYTIME THIS HAPPENS HE IS NOT THERE AND WHEN HE GETS THERE IT STARTS UP. MAYBE IT IS THE FUEL PUMP
  • sweetsciencesweetscience Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, I've had the 01 Impala for over 2 yrs now and never had any serious issuies until lately. I've checked the board and it seems i'm having problems that some of u are familiar with. "Car won't start". Bout a week before that the 'security' light would come on and the power locks quit working.
    When it doesn't start, i turn the key and the engine never cranks. I can press the windows down and up and the blinkers work but the engine never turned. Waited a few hours and it cranked up. Then i took it to the dealer but he said he couldn't do anything for since it seemed to be working fine for him. All it pulled up on the machine was "security" or "security codes" or something like that he said. Well yesterday it wouldn't start again and i was stranded. Got a ride out to the car and it still wouldn't start so i left it in a parking lot overnight. The next morning i went out there and tried again and it still wouldn't start. I disconnected the battery and left it off for about 2-3 minutes. Reconnected it then started the car. I was relieved to be able to take the car back home. Only problem is when i put the car in reverse which is when my autolock is supposed to do its thing, the security light pops back on. Oh yeah, there is also the clicks.
    So has anyone had any success solving this problem?? The Passlock sec. seems the "key" suspect. Could i need new keys?? Fuel pump and ignition switch are contenders. The Body Control Module is my worst fear. I hope its something simple like a bad battery cable. Can anyone help??
    1 love
  • elc32955elc32955 Member Posts: 5
    I started seeing the intermittent "SECURITY" light on my 2001 when I was driving down the road, the indicator would come on for 2-3 mins and then go out. Didn't see any other effects from it. Well, I'm a little anal about warning messages so I took it into the dealer. Turns out the security module was throwing codes and I had it replaced (no charge to me since I have a warranty policy on the car from my friendly local Credit Union!). Now I'm starting to see intermittent "Low Coolant" messages, the sender in the radiator is probably going bad.

    We had one of our people on NewImpala dot com swear her car was possessed, it was turning lights on & off, her windows were self-activating, and the gauges were going whacko on her, she thought she was in a horror movie! Her posts are worth reading if you're having electrical problems...

    Take care
    Eric
  • gisdudegisdude Member Posts: 1
    2002 Impala LS... I am wanting to replace the front disc pads and rotors. I have done this on other cars before but I am wondering if there are any special tricks I need to know for the Impala.... ie, left hand threads, special tools required etc...

    Thanks in advance
  • qfest1qfest1 Member Posts: 1
    Have you solved your vent selector switch problem? If so, what did the dealer charge for the repair or were you able to install the selector switch yourself? Any info would be helpful as I believe I have the same problem with a 2002 Impala.
  • ravensfan1ravensfan1 Member Posts: 3
    Hello qfest1,

    It did solve the problem. The car was only 3 months old at the time (Dec. 2001) w/ 2300 miles, so the dealer fixed it under warranty. I don't remember how much it could have cost. If I find the repair slip and it mentions it, I will update the message. For some reason, $170 sticks in my head.

    I looked it up in my Helms manual. If you are comfortable digging into the instrument panel, I think you could do it yourself. It mentions removing the IP trim plate bezel and the front floor console. From there, unscrewing it and and removing the connectors. Then installing the replacement in the reverse procedure.

    One thing I would caution is that it might be one of two items. I found the item "HVAC control assembly replacement" which is what I believe was replaced on mine. The manual also has a section on "HVAC control vacuum valve replacement". It is unclear from the description and pictures, but it seems like it might be a component of the HVAC control assembly.

    Hope this helps and good luck.
  • nopowernopower Member Posts: 2
    I was just wondering if your problem was solved? Because I am having the same problem. We had it put on a diagnostic machine and they came up with the code DTC PO300 we replaced a plugs and wires and a couple other parts I think it was a core pack? He is ready to pull the rest of his hair out, what little bit that he has left. This did not help, it made it worst. Can someone please help us, we have spent over $300.00 and we are on a fixed income. Not to mention our Chevy S10 problem to deal with, the A/C.
    Had the brake rotor issue, frontend issue, backwindsheild seal coming off, the loud humming noise in the right side oh not to mention I am losing break fluid ?
    Thanks everybody for sharing all your experience you've had with your (my baby)car. I do not know whether I want to keep this car we have 85k miles it now.
    When it rains, it pours.. :0(
  • saltrsaltr Member Posts: 1
    Hello All; I have check eng light on, when scanned, comes back to DTC P0440 which indicates EVAP EMISSIONS MALFUNCTION. I replaced the gas cap, reset the ECM,light still comes on after a few days.I noticed when refueling, that there is an absence of pressure when I release the gas cap.Anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks-saltr 01 Impala LS 3.8.
  • stanleylittlestanleylittle Member Posts: 5
    I too had had some transmission slipping. Thankfully, my father-in-law is a transmission pro. Apparently when you change your transmission fluid, you also have to put a tube of shutter stop in with the transmission fluid. It stopped the slipping and I haven't had a problem since. You can find shutter stop at any transmission shop (be careful though, they all tried to tell me that it wouldn't fix the problem and they would have to look at) for about $6.00. Sounds like this came a little too late but hopefully will save someone else from spending a ton of money.
  • stanleylittlestanleylittle Member Posts: 5
    my ac switches stop working like the recirculate button to change from inside air or outside air any suggestions
  • stanleylittlestanleylittle Member Posts: 5
    ya you got to buy the wiring harness to put yor factory radio in the trunk it is something like 500 dollars
  • stanleylittlestanleylittle Member Posts: 5
    well i would check the power wires going to the starter and starter silenoid check the all the way up and down
  • sunnybuttersunnybutter Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Impala has a problem with the turn signals not working when it's humid or raining. Has anyone else had a similar problem, or can anyone advise how to get it fixed, especially before I have to get my state inspection done before month's end and I'm sure they would like my turn signals working!
  • impala2002impala2002 Member Posts: 7
    Unfortunately no replies to my message. But in the spirit of helping others, just wanted to mention the outcome of my issue. I took my car to the dealer. The service representative was nice enough to do a quick drive the car and suspect the transmission - so he persuaded me that we should do a transmission diagnosis. Unfortunately, they didn't get to it that day and I took my car back that day (Wed). The next day, as I drove the car, I was more or less convinced that it was a transmission problem since the car would tend to stall more when going up hill. When I changed to a lower gear, it took off. Anyway, dropped off the car to dealer on Fri. The dealer diagnosed it as a constricted catalytic converter. Fortunately, the catalytic converter is covered beyond the 3yr warranty and was replaced by the driver. Now that the acceleration is back - you guys watch out for this maniac in the Impala!
  • nopowernopower Member Posts: 2
    We FIXED it!!!! Even though our car showed Code PO300 it was the catalytic converter!
  • ravensfan1ravensfan1 Member Posts: 3
    I had the check engine light come on about a month ago. I was near the end of a tank of gas. After about a week, and a fill up it did not go out on its own. I finally got a chance to check the code and it was due to this P0440 code also. I reset the code. Fortunately in my case, it has not returned. There were no noticeable problems with the car. I can't say I noticed the how the pressure felt when removing the gas cap. I'll have to pay attention to that at the next fill up.
  • apgroundapground Member Posts: 4
    I live in Surrey British Columbia Canada.It cost me about $180.00 for Installation and the wiring harness and the antenna cord my stock deck is now mounted in the trunk under the rear speakers on the passenger side.The USA price is $59.99 for the Scosche GM06B / GM06 Intergrated T-Wiring Harness and what ever the cost of installation.Make sure you get the antenna cord as they didn't mention it to me and I had to return to the store for it.I also changed my speakers over.
    I hope this helps.
  • ontiverosontiveros Member Posts: 1
    Great forum! Thanks! I have a 2003 LS(78,562 miles) which eats brakes, shudders on load, and worst of all has a clunking sound up front. The first brakes and rotors were replaced at 11,000 miles (was a serious grinding sound). The whole car has a shudder that can be felt most at higher speeds and under load (climbing an incline), not so bad down a hill. Mainly under accelleration. The worst problem is the clunking sound. When I bought the car i had none of these problems so I know something is wrong; but what! I just wish that whatever it is it would just break. That way a mechanic is sure to find it. As it is right now, the mechanics say 'needs brakes" or "bad rotors" or "rotors need to be turned" or "tires need balanced" or "need new tires" or "tires need to be rotated" or sometimes all of the above. I read in some of the ealier posts about the bad cradle but that seemed restricted to the 2000 model. I also read something about the intermediate shaft that might handle the clunk but would that take care of the shudder? Any help would be appreciated. I just want to give the locl mechanic some ideas to fix my car.
    thanks
  • simonswusimonswu Member Posts: 5
    2001 Impala base 46K miles.
    Recently developed a kind of whining noise from the front. The whine can
    only be heard when the car runs in roughly 20 - 30 mph speed range (sometimes 20-25mph)

    Tried switching gear to neutral when whining, most of times the noise is
    still there until the car slows down below ~20mph.

    :confuse: What whines?
  • roseannbegrg1roseannbegrg1 Member Posts: 1
    i own a 2003 impala.heres my list.rear rotors resurfaced 12000 miles.steering shaft and outer tie rod ends at 28000 miles.rust in left rear inner door threshold.body control module at 38000 miles.ignition switch and pass lock module at 39000 miles.and now at 48000 miles intake manifold leak.gm rep basically told me that since maintance was not performed at a dealer and that only warranty repairs were done at the dealer that he could not help me.car was serviced at a pro care since new.anyone else have all these problems.
  • cgt1cgt1 Member Posts: 1
    What was wrong with your car ?
  • amysingeramysinger Member Posts: 1
    I have an '03 Impala and never had any problems until I was in an accident recently. The front of my car was hit mostly on the right side where the headlight is but the damage extended across the other side of the hood as well. One of the parts damaged was the engine cradle and the collision center that was doing the repairs had to send it off to another shop to fix it. So five weeks after my accident, I was told that my car was finally finished. Only a few days after getting it back, I noticed a slight creaking noise when I turned the wheel. By the time I took it back to the collision center to be checked, it had gotten worse, occurring more often. So the collision center sent it back to the other shop to be fixed and I just picked it back up last night. As soon as I turned the wheel to back out, there it was again. The shop was already closing so I drove it home to make sure that the cradle was for sure what I was hearing. On the way home it was getting worse. Not only did it creak when I turned the wheel, but also when I would accelerate or brake. It was constant with every movement of my car! I called the collision center just a few minutes ago and they apologized..blah blah blah..and just asked me to bring it back in when I could and they would send it back to other shop.
    The guy at the center responsible for my car, when I asked him why there could still be a problem, said that it's probably just some bolts that aren't fastened properly. Now I don't know a whole lot about cars(I am going to start learning more after all of this, however), but I'm not seeing how just a few lose bolts could be overlooked twice already, or could there be a bigger issue here? Could somebody explain the structure of a cradle and things that could go wrong with it?
  • this_is_nascarthis_is_nascar Member Posts: 199
    I've had Impalas since 2000 and am very familiar with the ISS issue. I had hoped that by '03 the issue would have been resolved, however not. Back then, the fix was to replace the ISS. That was too expensive for GM, so for a period of time, the solution was to lubricate the ISS. Now in the summer of '05, the updated TSB calls for the replacement of the ISS again. I hope that means they finally got it right this time.

    Anyway, last week at 55k miles, I needed mine replaced due to all the usual suspected conditions, etc. It could me $200 and they would not cover it as a warranted item. It time to contact GM and asked them why I have to pay for an issue that's 5-years old, regardless of how many miles are my Impala.

    That being said, it feels like a new car again. The suspension feels tightened up, smooth and very responsive.
  • birdwatcherbirdwatcher Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2005 Impala in May 2005.I have noticed a stutter or hesitation upon light acceleration or while rolling slightly in traffic. Took it to dealer twice for this problem. Was given two different explanations by two different mechanics. One was to put more miles on car, other was that it is engine and transmission engaging together. BTW I drove two different cars just like this one as loaners--neither one had this problem. Can anybody help before I go back a third time ?
  • mzywickimzywicki Member Posts: 1
    Speaking from experience...
    I had the identical problem with my Impala not starting when overheating...or so I thought. The temperature rising up, it seems to be a common answer from a lot of dealers, mechanics and internet research. I know that several things CAN cause this starting issue. First, APA and GM confirms on average coolant leaking or busted intake manifold can cause this issue in 7 out of 10 cars. Second, if your head gasket needs to be replaced, your car will stall while running. Third and most common problem to this starting issue is......YES, THE FUEL PUMP. If your manifold and head gasket are working properly...this will most likely be your problem...Due to the cooling fans activating only at a certain temperature, if your fuel pump is broken, it will overheat and boil your gas before the fans kick in, thus preventing your car from starting until gas stops to boil. One advise to all who care to apply it, don't wait, take your car for inspection to GM qualified dealer or garage. I have dedicated a lot of time to properly identify not only the problem but also the causes of the problem. Again, I went through the same ordeal like you people and hope that this will help some of you.
  • jktraveljktravel Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Impala LS with 9600 miles on it feels like it has a side to side shake from about 40 mph and up. The cheap plastic center console rattles against the dash in sync with the shake.
    I took it to the dealer and they said they could find nothing wrong with the frontend or wheel balance.
    Told me it was just the way the suspension is tuned that made it feel that way.
    anyother 2005 LS owners notice this issue or have information?
  • hksunshinehksunshine Member Posts: 2
    I have an 02 Impala LS which now has about 37K miles on it. This seems to happen only sometimes when I hit a big bump while driving at highway speeds but it is a very infrequent event. The engine stalls and I lose all power including PS & PB. Since the car is moving at highway speeds it is very difficult to steer or stop. This is very dangerous and can have very serious implications. When I pull over I can put the car in N or P and restart (usually I have to crank a few seconds but this the way this car operates all the time when I stop and try an immediate restart). Once I have restarted the engine I can drive off without further problem until the next time this happens.
    The First time this happened the security light also came on but that may be because everything died. The car does NOT have a bumb sensative alarm. It has happened about a dozen time since I have the car. As this is an intermittent problem which cannot be duplicated in the service area.
    THIS HAS ME VERY WORRIED. ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS AND HOW WE’D GO ABOUT GETTING IT FIXED. Please email me your responses. Thank you!
  • meangene2meangene2 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2001 impala. I just put on new tires and the problem still exists. When you press on the brakes, does it make a clicking noise, also? My dealer "glued" some part of the steering wheel column, that was 20k miles ago it got better but the clicking is back now.
    Has your traction control been giving you a problem? Mine seems to fail when I turn the wheel to the left. It has now totally failed and the ck engine lt is on to fix it. I have already replaced the comp chip for $215 generic, the GM same part was $615, not sure what I am going to do next.
    My center console shakes at higher speeds.
    Let me know if you have found a solution for the clicking, I think the glue that was used by my dealer was done just to get me out of the shop.
    Good Luck
    Gino in Georgia
  • wa2coolwa2cool Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 also. I have the same problem. I have not taken it to the dealership yet, but a mechanic that I have dealt with for over 25 years, and trust wholeheartedly, has checked it. His findings as follows: He did replicate the problem, but was unable to pull any code from the onboard computer. He did a lot of research and said he was 99% sure that the problem was in the ignition switch not sending the right amount of voltage (sometimes) to the body computer, which in turn tells the main computer to go into Security Mode, which shuts down the starting system for 10 minutes then it resets. He said he could replace the ignition switch for around $200. The computer would then have to be programed for the new switch before the car would crank. Guess what!! GM will not release the code to reprogram the computer!! Therefore a person would have to take it to a dealership to have it reprogramed. Here's what I have been doing in the meantime: When the car fails to start, the Security light on the dash flashes. Turn the ignition off and back to the on position and watch the light. When it stops flashing (in approximately 10 minutes) and the battery indicator stays on turn the ignition off and try to crank the car again. It has never failed starting on this attempt for me. I know that waiting for 10 minutes is annoying, but it works. I know this reply is lengthy, but maybe it will help.
  • lutzylutzy Member Posts: 1
    My Father has a 2000 Impala with approx. 82,000 KM on it. The problem is when he is driving the battery light will come on followed by the security light and then shut everything down. He looses power brakes as well as power steering, so he has to shift into neutral and turn the key off and restart the engine. The Chevy Mechanic has no idea and can't see any problems when he hooks it up to his computer.

    This is obviously very dangerous and I have lent them my car so they don't get into any trouble on the side of the road,especially my Mother.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, Dan
  • odb2odb2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks,

    I have a 2000 Impala LS and was having starting problems like lots of others. The car would start fine when cold, but then after a short trip to the grocery store or mall, it wouldn't start. It would crank over and over but wouldn't fire. We would let it sit for 10-15 minutes and try it again and away we'd go. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they said it was a bad "ignition module". That was replaced and so far so good. Had a similiar problem just after 36k, and then it was a fuel pressure regulator. Also I had gasket problems, leaking coolant and oil so replaced a lower intake gasket and oil pan gasket. I really like the design of the new 2006 Impala but I think I'm going to switcht to Honda or Toyota when I'm ready to trade. :lemon:
  • mnpoliceimpalamnpoliceimpala Member Posts: 1
    Its pretty much standard on the police cars to not have the interior lights come on when the doors are opened. Its for officer's safety that they are not lit up when the door is opened. Your best bet is to talk to a dealer and see if they know how to by pass it.
  • topazesqtopazesq Member Posts: 3
    Actually, that's exactly what my mechanic did too and referred me back to the dealer, who was never able to recreate the problem. Finally it did and the car just wouldn't start again and they determined it was the fuel pump. That was over a month ago & (knock on wood), I haven't had any more issues. The dealer had it for over 2 weeks and it ended up costing me a fortune but at least I can drive the thing again. Now I need to replace the brakes again........
  • happyfellerhappyfeller Member Posts: 6
    Finally after 3 months of going back and forth to the dealer and the dealer having it longer than I did the problem seems to be fixed. They changed the ignition switch, bypass module, body module and finally the item that seems to have fixed it was the starter. It had a bad spot in the motor winding. Did not have to replace the fuel pump. So far for 3 weeks no problems. Good Luck.
  • tommy42tommy42 Member Posts: 70
    I got a letter from Chevy to warranty my 2001 Impala catalytic converter for 10 year or 120,000 miles.This for 3.4 &3.8 engines.
  • michellesmichelles Member Posts: 3
    I am new to this site and would please like some information before I get "beat" by a mechanic. I have no idea about cars, whatsoever. I have a 2004 Impala with 55K miles. I have had 2 problems so far. The first is when I start my car, it kind of drags. I thought the started was going out, but the mechanic told me that it was fine.??? Why would it be doing this? Second, yesterday I came out of the library and started my car and pushed the accelarator and it would barely go past 10 mph. Then, the check engine light came on. I took it to Auto Zone and they put it a tester and it read that the 02 was backfiring? Is this major? Am I going to be out of some big money to fix this? HEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLPPPP, any suggestions any mechanics in the Davenport IA area that can help me?
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    Hello Michelle, problem number 1, have the battery checked. If the voltage is OK, have the positive terminal check for looseness. I just had to replace my OEM battery because the positive terminal just came off when I tried to loosen it. It detached from the battery case so that the terminal was still attached to the cable. My original investigation was for a no start problem I encountered one day. If your battery is a 78-yr Delco OEM battery they have suspect positive terminals.

    Problem 2, have the catalytic converter checked, it contains a honeycomb material coated with platinum. If the honeycomb breaks it could clog the converter and cause low power, backfire, etc. It should be under warranty. I hope this helps, good luck. :D
  • walt10walt10 Member Posts: 1
    michelles,
    Take the car to the dealer and have them check the catalytic converter. I have a 2002 Impala and just got a letter from GM advising that I MIGHT experience a problem with the converter (that was described like your problem) and if so return to the dealer for a WARRANTY repair. They advised this was not a recall and stated they were extending the warranty for this particular problem to 10 years/120,000 miles. I had a similar problem on a car I had about 10 years ago and it was also the converter that had gone bad. hope this helps.
  • michellesmichelles Member Posts: 3
    It is under warranty still. Thank you so much for the advice. I at least can go in and give them suggestions on what I think it may be, so they can at least think I know what I am talking about. Thanks again.

    Michelle
  • michellesmichelles Member Posts: 3
    Hey thanks a buch for the advice. I really like this site. Hopefully, I will not have to be here to often. Have a great day! Once again, thanks for the advice.

    Michelle
  • sirdinsmoresirdinsmore Member Posts: 2
    Just like others my 2000 impala won't start. Iwas driving and the engine cut off and PS locked up. All the power works but the engine want turn over. Have anybody else with problem ever get this resolved. The worst thing is that I'm in a foreign country with no CHEVY/GM dealership to take it to. Just a foreign national working for the Gov't. S o if anybody has pinpointed the problem it will help greatly .
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    If possible take someone (that might have a little car knowlege) with you when you go back to the dealership regarding your problem.
  • kzwingerkzwinger Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same sort of problem. Every now and again I get into my car and it just doesn't start. The lights and the radio come on, but it won't even attempt to turn over. Usually I wait a while and it will eventually start up without a problem. I know it isn't the alternator or the battery. I just had my car checked out last Sat. and they said it was all good. Have you noticed the security light coming on periodically? This happens to me. I was told by a friend, that it could be the keys. Apparently there is a small chip inside the key. If it gets out of line with the computer system in your car, the car won't start. I haven't had a chance to get new keys yet, but hope to in the near future. Also...I bought my car from a local person and it didn't come with the owners manual. I just had a tire patched last night, and can't get the "low tire pressure light" to go off. Do you happen to know how I go about that?
  • kzwingerkzwinger Member Posts: 2
    I don't have an owners manual, so can you tell me what exactly I need to do to reset the tire pressure light? It would be greatly appreciated!
  • chrisis30chrisis30 Member Posts: 20
    the following is two ways too reset,the first is preferred especially since some cars no longer or never did have the special stereo required to reset through them, the first is also 10 times easier!!

    To reset (calibrate) the system: The tire inflation
    monitor system can be reset two ways. With the
    ignition position at ON, pull the interior lamps
    control to the ON and OFF settings three times.
    It can also be reset through the radio using the
    following steps:
    1. Turn the ignition to ACC or ON and turn the
    radio off.
    2. Press and hold the TUNE DISP button on the radio for
    at least five seconds until SETTINGS is displayed.
    3. Press the SEEK PTYPE up or down arrow to scroll
    through the main menu.
    4. Scroll until TIRE MON appears on the display.
    5. Press the 1 PREV or 2 NEXT button to enter the
    submenu. RESET will be displayed.
    6. Press the TUNE DISP button to reset. A chime will
    be heard to verify the new setting and DONE will be
    displayed for one second.
    7. Once the monitor has been reset, scroll until EXIT
    appears on the display.
    8. Press the DISP button to exit programming. A chime
    will be heard to verify exit.
    The system completes the calibration process
    during driving.
    The system normally takes 15 to 20 minutes of driving
    in each of three speed ranges to “learn” tire pressures.
    The speed ranges are 15 to 40 mph (25 to 65 km/h),
    40 to 65 mph (65 to 105 km/h) and above 65 mph
    (105 km/h). When learning is complete, the system
    will alert you after two to eight minutes if a tire is 12 psi
    (83 kPa) different from the other three tires. Detection
    thresholds may be higher and detection times may be
    longer on rough roads, curves and at high speeds. The
    system is not capable of detection at speeds greater than
    70 mph (110 km/
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