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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • lablkdylablkdy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and lately it has been making a weird noise when I accelerate. It did not do this until just recently. I think the Collision center that did my Body work and window did this (hit a 50lb turkey). I also notice that when I put my car in park and shut the car off that the doors no longer unlock. To further complicate things now the car will turn on but, when I put the car in drive, or reverse it won't move. I had to push my car back in my garage. My question is what is wrong with my car and about how much should it cost to fix.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I've also a 2000 Impala (3.8l engine) and recently I'm getting a whine coming from the transmission as I accelerate. I haven't noticed any other problems associated with it, but I have noticed if I spin the tires, the noise gets louder immediately (I switched to longer-life tires from a sportier tire this summer, and these tend to spin more on takeoff, even on dry pavement). Typically when I park it and then drive it again later, the noise isn't there...but now at low speeds I can definitely hear a whine, which is clearly tied to the speed of the car (pitch gets higher as car speeds up).

    As for the doors not unlocking, if you check your manual there's a way to set your preferences via the radio to turn that feature on and off...I've always had mine set to lock automatically, but to NOT unlock when I park...figuring that could provide an opportunity for someone to jump into my car unexpectedly.

    NO idea if the car won't move at all though...how many miles do you have on yours, and how long have you had the noise? If the noise is the sign of a pending problem that leads to the car not moving, that might be the incentive I need to have mine looked at now while it's still mobile!! :)
  • billyo1billyo1 Member Posts: 1
    Well since it has gotten cold out again my temp gauge is quitting and fans are running constant.It was fine all summer after having the same prob last winter.I have changed sending unit twice I had to change cooling fans because bearings went from running all the time.And its hard to get good heat at 0 degrres with fans running.If i pull the PCM fuse for at least 20 min it will be fine for a while.What part could react to outside temp to cause this.The antifreeze temp and thermo are fine its electrical i think?
  • wbyrdewbyrde Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with air flow? I have a 2003 Impala and I only get cold air on the drivers side, no heat. The passenger side has heat! What can I do to fix this?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    FWIW on the whine I was having with my 2000 model, I happened to check my oil last night and realized I was almost a quart low. I had a 1/2-quart on hand so I put in that much (I'm due a change soon, otherwise I'd have gone and bought a full quart), and noticed the whine wasn't there this morning as I went up my hill. Can't say for certain that it was related to low oil (or that the noise has been eliminated for that matter), but I almost seem to remember this happening once before. Anyway, passing it along FWIW.
  • fatfat Member Posts: 3
    I know thyat many times a problem can be complicated but,I also had this problem last night with my 2002.I have had not one problem(knock on wood) since I bought it new and (I really like this car very much) until last night when I tried to start it.It went balistic on me with every kind of click and other weird noise a car could possibly produce short of blowing up.I thought an alarm or shut down system had been inadverently activated...so I disconnected the battery until I could look this AM because it wouldnt stop even turned off..Well,low and behold,when I went to remove the battery since it was my starting point to check,the negative terminal post just simply fell out.There was no sign of errosion or anything.It looked fine but then I realized that I had done nothing to the battery since I bought it.Needless to say,I went and got a new one and all seems well again.I know this probably wont help much if any but, Im just posting to say that sometimes its a simple,seemingly stupid problem that can be easily fixed....yep even by a girl! As we say in the world of horses....start with the easiest thing first and take it one by one from there.Best of luck!
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    What happened to Fat happened to me about a 2 months ago. I posted this earlier, but it might help to reiterate this. If you have the OEM battery check the positive terminal, they have a history of coming off. In my case I found out it was bad by simply trying to get my battery out. Trying to unloosen the terminal it just snapped off. I Googled and found that many others have had this problem. So, if you are having some electrical related problems and have the original battery have it checked out. Putting a meter to check for voltage won't necessarily indicate any problems. A load needs to be put on it, if it is bad this should help bring it out.
  • fatfat Member Posts: 3
    hchu1...you're right about that indicator....Mine didnt even show clear or yellow or whatever to indicate a low or problem with the battery.Even though it was your pos. post,it sounds the same.Thing is,there was no indication that I have experienced with other cars(like being dead in the water)that it would be a battery problem. Everything looked ok and pointed to something else ele.really.But I guess because that it has the RAP it just kept going nuts....until I diconnected and then it simply popped off when I went to remove it.Just thankful it happened at home!
  • fatfat Member Posts: 3
    Hey,Im no tec but do you think that since they have the seperately controlled temp for either side, your problem could be in the switch/temp adjustment or blockage on the drivers side? Just a thought...
  • jminkjmink Member Posts: 1
    My dash lights go out intermittently, my blinkers work intermittently, also when I push the rear defrost button my radio goes to static. Has anyone had similar problems? Any solutions? :lemon:
  • drmullerdrmuller Member Posts: 3
    2000 Impala
    Help! my blower motor went bad and I replaced but now it will only work on 5. Also sometimes my car starts and sometimes it does not I turn the key and when it gets to start nothing happens no noise or anything.
    please help :cry:
  • ladyls2002ladyls2002 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    Please help me!

    OK, well it first started when my 2002 Impala LS 3.8 V6 started idling at about 1500 at start-up. I figured that was kind of high and when I would let it run a few minute she would go back down to normal. Last week, she started this weird thing where the RPMS would all of a sudden jump up to about 2500, then bounce down to 500, then feel like it was going to stall. But it would not. This is when the car was in park.

    Now she has decided to die while driving. This is a pain as I really do not want to die at such a young age. I have changed the MAP sensor, fuel filter. Tuesday is a complete plug and wire change, as well as a new crankshaft position sensor. If anyone has any insight on this problem please help me. I would like to stop spending all of my money on this car. BTW, she only has 33000 miles on her. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help. :P
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Has anyone replaced their autodimming rearview mirror? Mine doesn't work anymore and I need to replace it, but don't know if it's something that's easy to do or not. I can order a replacement, but don't want to pay someone a high hourly fee if I can easily do it myself...likewise if it's difficult I'd rather pay someone else so I won't screw it up. :)
  • drmullerdrmuller Member Posts: 3
    I read one of the earlier posts about the blower motor speeds not working correctly and some one had said to replace the f resistor. I wanted to know if anyone could help me because I have no idea were it is or how to replace it. Anyone know?
    :sick:
  • kimbaloo0421kimbaloo0421 Member Posts: 2
    My low coolant light comes on everytime I start my car and will usually go off when my temp gauge is at the half way mark(straight up, sorry don't remember temp). My coolant is not low! Is there a sensor that might need to be replaced? :confuse:
  • kimbaloo0421kimbaloo0421 Member Posts: 2
    My rear window defogger does not work. I have checked the fuses, and everything is plugged in. The person who had my car before had a stereo system and tint on the back window. I think they might have messed something up. Any ideas on what I can do to fix? :confuse:
  • scramblinmanscramblinman Member Posts: 33
    Check out www.impalahq.com for a write up on replacing the temperature coolant sensor.
  • t_tookalookt_tookalook Member Posts: 29
    I have a 2003 and even have tinting on the R window, I can't tell any difference at all. The tinting people are aware of the antenna and know how to handle it.
    I have excellent reception-- no prob.
    Rodger
  • rwalkerrwalker Member Posts: 1
    I'm not sure if this helps, but about 2 months ago I received a letter in the mail from Chevy about the catalytic converters going bad, and that it was not a recall BUT if you are having "performance problems" to take it in to the dealer to have it replaced free. They are extending the warranty on the converters I believe it was up to 10 years or 150,000 miles.
  • jntjnt Member Posts: 316
    The tinting outfit could have done one of the followings:

    1. Disconnect the electrical connection to the defrost grid (rear glass area) and forgot to hook it back

    2. The tinting material may have metalic content and it short the connection of the defrost grid to ground. But with that, at least the fuse for the defroster should be burned out.

    So for sure, check the electrical connection to the defroster. Use a Voltmeter to measure the voltage to the grid when the Rear Defroster button is pushed to see if there is power there.

    jt
  • ladyls2002ladyls2002 Member Posts: 3
    I will talk to the dealership tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully it helps. :shades:
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    dash lights: I don't know

    turn signals: may be your hazard switch, on some of these,
    the hazard switch gets an intermittant open and interrupts
    the operation of the turn signals.

    radio/defrost: get your defroster wiring checked. The radio shares the back glass with your defroster. If the wiring is screwy, the radio can static up when the defroster is being used.
  • figureitoutfigureitout Member Posts: 2
    I have two problems. From time to time my security light comes on while I am driving. The only way to make it go off is to turn the car off and restart it. The other problem is that I have a blown fuse, but everytime I replace the fuse it pops time I replace it. Any suggestion on either problem?
  • naba00naba00 Member Posts: 4
    For all 9C1 Police Edition Impalas. I have a 2002. I researched the "no dome light problem when doors open" and found that yes it is for officer's safety, however it is NOT a wire disconnected at each dorr. Rather the dome lights are disabled in the BCM (body control module computer)programming. This means a special letter/code is put in to disable the dome light at the BCM. The problem of course is that once a BCM is programmed with the security code, it cannot be re-programmed. This means you have to buy a new BCM and have it programmed-but the BCM price is not too bad. I found it at RockAuto.com for about $140 delivered. Hope this helps some of you.
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    What fuse is this for?
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    Check reply 1284, it is pretty detail.
  • jdangerjdanger Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, I own a 2002 Impala LS, am the second owner and at 34,000 miles my transmission went out, warranty was up and Chevy wouldn't do anything, so $2300 later I had a beefed up rebuilt tranny. Now at 37,000 miles tranny is acting up again and its in the shop now, they are replacing a solenoid and said that 10 engine codes come up and think it needs a new computer because everything else is running fine....we will see. A $500 job to replace a fuel sensor was done right after I got it but covered under warranty, done right around 29,000 miles.

    What should I do? I love the car but I can't keep putting money into it... and with the tranny loan and the car payment I could have had an suv at this point, but owe way more than the car is worth now...

    any suggestions in any direction would help, thanks!

    joe
  • griffman12griffman12 Member Posts: 18
    Hi,

    What is an ISS???

    Thanks,
    griffman
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    ISS = Intermediate Steering Shaft
  • zippy26zippy26 Member Posts: 1
    I would take it in because I was having the same problem with mine, and my coolant was leaking to my gaskets and they needed to be replaced. Get it checked just in case because I didn't really lose hardly any coolant at first but then it got real bad real fast. It cost over $700 to get it all fixed.
  • jrpackjrpack Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem. My low coolant light is coming on and going off. I have checked the levels and everything is fine. My temperature gauge to a little low. Especially when I have my heater on. I don't know what the deal is!
  • jrpackjrpack Member Posts: 2
    My Impala does the same thing. I do have my rear window tinted, but I've never taken it in to be looked at so I couldn't help you. If you find out what it is please let me know. Thanks
  • figureitoutfigureitout Member Posts: 2
    The fuse is for my interior light, my trunk light and my mirror light.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    My daughter has the same problem with her Cavalier and yes it is the a blower motor resistor. Not sure where it is, I think some where near the blower motor. Go to the library and get a repair manual and look it up. Or go to the dealer's parts department and tell them what you want and have them show you where the thing goes, they have all the diagrams. My dealer has been helpful to me in this way.
  • richs00impalarichs00impala Member Posts: 1
    anybody know what could cause a 12 volt battery drain on my 2000 impala when the vehicle is off.....I have had the car for 2 months and the battery keeps going dead(its a new battery and has been checked...alternator also).....I disconnected the positive battery terminal and put a volt meter between the battery and positive connector and get the drian with the car off
  • jguernseyjguernsey Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 LS w/ 96000 miles and I just got it back from the dealer. They told me that the problem with my gas gauge is that the float in the tank was not working properly. They told me that the entire fuel sender and pump assembly had to be replace. They wanted $800 to do the work. I found the part at Autozone for $200. has anyone made this swap them self and how hard is it? I also have a problem with the ABS / Trac Control. I also had the dealer check it. they told me the hydrolic pump needed to be replace, that was gonna cost $1200. has anyone made the repair?
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    Check ImpalaHQ.com, look in the how-to section. The procedure is there to show you how to change it out. The difficulty factor is how well you feel about working around gasoline. It is not too difficult to change out. If you work on your own car you should not have any problems doing it. Just follow common sense rules concerning working around gasoline.

    Before you change it out consider using a fuel injector cleaner, if you have not done so. The float could just be hung up because of it sticking in one position. I was ready to replace mine also, but tried the injector solution and it worked. But not before I had already bought the sender unit. If you find that you really need to change out the sender, let me know I have the unit you need, but it won't cost you $200, closer to half new in the box. Good luck.
  • drmullerdrmuller Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much that was very helpful.
  • chevy40chevy40 Member Posts: 3
    I just changed the resistor for my 2002 Impala blower motor Reply 1284 was very helpful, but I found if you remove blower motor and harness bracket that you have a easier time replacing resistor only five more screws,a secondpair of hands is helpful inputting blower motor back.
  • chevy40chevy40 Member Posts: 3
    My 2002 Impala have static on FM with Rear Defrost on. Bad ground on antenna?
  • abpartyabparty Member Posts: 1
    Hey billyo1,

    Did you ever figure what was wrong with this?? I have two 2001 with this problem and on top of that both have battery drains happenign too!!! I had the radiator replaced, water pump, thermastat checked and everything else in the one and no luck. Scary part is is when I have the system flused they both work for about a day or so and they just stop working????? Let me know as I would appreciate any help!!! Thanks in advance! Joe
  • chevy40chevy40 Member Posts: 3
    It mostprobably is thermostat it is hung open and not allowing coolant to reach temp. Take to aindependent repair shop check with someone you know. Should not cost $200.00
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    If it is your thermostat, replacing it yourself would cost you $6-$12, depending on the thermostat you choose. It's not difficult and in a position readily accesible. So, if you're handy, you can a lot of money. :)
  • tavo63tavo63 Member Posts: 1
    ISS: = Intermediate Steering Shaft
  • kcdkcd Member Posts: 6
    06 Impala LS has slight rattle/sputter that is noticeable when accelerating from dead stop/low speed. It's not noticeable during hi-speed acceleration. Any ideas?
  • hchu1hchu1 Member Posts: 17
    Have the dealer check the catalytic converter.
  • roby777roby777 Member Posts: 1
    The Low Tire Pressure light keeps coming on when I add air to my tires. Had to take it back twice and the dealer reset the alarm...it is a lengthy process where they have to use a magnet and such. I have a 2005 LS. Good Luck!!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Are you resetting the tire pressure monitor via the radio when you add air? If not, this will cause the tire pressure light to come on. Any time you adjust the tire pressure you should reset the monitor, otherwise the system should sense the difference and register an error.
  • kcdkcd Member Posts: 6
    I took the service advisor at the dealership on a test ride and he called it a flutter, maybe a belt on the engine, but they were booked today so I'm taking it back tomorrow.

    There was a very similar post on another thread (from search of term "flutter"): "...It's kind of like a fluttering. It is noticeable and a bit annoying...The worse moments are coming around a corner when the vehicle has decelerated and then you want to accelerate coming out of the turn...From what I have read there is not much to be done; this has something to do with the computer controlled throttle and transmission...."

    I'm hoping that my problem is one that they can fix.
  • fziofzio Member Posts: 1
    I have the same vehicle and it had the same symptoms... Since I didn't have time to get into it, I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday morning.
    -Faulty thermastat (stuck open) caused engine to run cold.
    -Module (PCM) senses faulty thermastat function and reacts for worst case
    >... fans set to run all the time like engine is very hot... but it's not
    > .... engine runs even cooler.
    When you pulled the fuse for the PCM, you likely reset error codes in yours ... until it detects the faulty thermastat operation again.
    Hope this helps.
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