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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
good luck
anyone hear of resealing lower intake manifold before 4 weeks after your warranty expire $713 plus tax
also fade / go dark. Any ideas?
:lemon: ???
You may want to check for blowned fuse that may supply the dimmer voltage to the IP and radio. On older GM vehicles, there is a module that supplies the dimming voltage to radio (buttons backlighting), HVAC unit, Intrusment Panel whenever the park light is on. On newer designs, the radio is responsible for its own dimming by tapping off the 12V and modulating the duty cycle. In such a case, the dimming module may just send a dimming message (Class 2 in your case)to all units. So for this type of design, you could still have a bad dimming module. Or you could have a broken Class 2 data wire that connects between this module to the radio, dashboard,... I assume your radio still shows the radio station and time of day, except it does not dim down at night. If the radio display is not even working and you don't even hear sound from it, then your car may have the 12V wire supply (to radio, air control, dashboard)pinched.
Good luck
jt
I just inherited an 01 Impala LS, it's got 47,500 miles and runs great, with exception of one problem. The steering when step on brake to shift, it seems to have a clunk, also seems to elicit that same sound occasionally when turning, etc... Do you recall what the diagnosis was to fix the problem. Took to mechanic other day and he said drove and didn't feel/hear anything. My wife who had never driven the car before we inherited it, noticed it the very first time she drove it. I noticed on first drive as well.... hoping to help them figure out problem (suppose the guys not much of a mechanic).
Thanks
Is yours a 3.4 or 3.8? I don't recall much problem with the 3.4 in this regard, so if you've got the 3.8 it's probably the intake...if it's the 3.4 I don't know.
Anybody have an idea as to how to get the old mirror off properly without damaging anything?
On this model at least there's also a plastic piece that runs up to the headliner which hides the wires; this basically just clips on the mirror arm, and can just be pulled off the old one and snapped onto the new one.
If I'd known it'd be this easy I'd have replaced this a couple of years ago!
I took to a Chevrolet dealer I have dealt with and they said problem is just starting. They showed me that there is a slight give to the right wheel. Said fix could wait.
I opted to wait to have repaired. Is this a safety issue?
Safety-wise I think the ride would get so bad you'd get it fixed before it got to the point of being dangerous (then again, I'm no expert).
I looked in my Haynes manual, and as best I can tell this repair would require removing the driveaxles, and either replacing the bearings, or maybe putting in completely new/rebuilt units (which might be cheaper if they're available; they might cost more for the part, but labor costs could be less). It does look pretty labor intensive. I've replaced bearings on farm equipment and RWD vehicles before, but FWD makes this much more complicated. I've replaced my own brake pads, and will probably put on new rotors myself soon; but I wouldn't tackle this unless the car was a secondary vehicle that could sit idle for a couple of weekends.
Any help much appreciated - thanks.
jt
I own a 2001 Impala LS, I was wondering where I might find a site that contains modifications for my year of Impala (i.e. higher powered lights, neon glow, etc).
Thankyou.
I'm dating myself here... A Chevy Impala of that era had two keys. One (with a rectangular head) operated the ignition. Another with an oval head opened the doors and trunk. I do not believe a remote trunk release was available in that car.
As an aside, the engine displacement would be referred to (in the US anyway) in cubic inches. I don't know offhand what 5.4 l works out to in cubic inches but I believe the V8 most commonly found in that car was a 327. I give you credit for doing some research on getting "car stuff" right. I've been reading a book by a great crime story author, tells a great story, great characters. But he keeps referring to cop's "Ford LTD's". They haven't used or made those in what, 15 years? But I digress...
Dave
Also, any front wheel drive car with a 300+ HP engine has limited appeal.
Does not appear to have the leaking gasket problem - don't think that the coolant has gone down.
I was driving it from Minnesota to Colorado and noticed that the power degrated much more at altitude than I expected. Then while stepping into it a bit more (not flooring it)to gain a little speed as I was dropping back going up a pass on I-70, the trans downshifted and the engine made a noise. The Check engine light was blinking (engine misfire as indicated in the manual). Car seemed to run just as well after this event - though still very doggy. Drove all the way back to Minnesota without much problem until the last couple of hundred miles. At that point, the car would barely run at idle. This would be expected with a hole in the intake. I don't know why it did not run like this right after the misfire.
I assume a backfire formed the hole. Dealer says the hole is a "melted" hole. Why would it backfire? Something else wrong?
Any ideas? Gtting the intake manifold fixed right now.