Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
DN
Only by reporting the thousands of these repairs can we hope to get it fixed.
Just fyi, my 2001 Impala is in the shop for the manifold repair.. and guess what... there are none available in Houston... in fact they said they already had 15 on backorder!
Get it fixed soon.
One question for everyone, though - Someone mentioned putting a lower temp thermostat on their Impala (like 180-degrees vs. the factory 190-degrees, or something like that); would there be any justification for doing so in an effort to keep the coolant temp down, and perhaps avoid warping the intake manifold (or would coolant temp have made any difference)?
When I purchased my 2000, I told the dealer I smelled that 'sweet' smell of anti-freeze after my test drive (which was great). He said it was probably the stuff the mechanic used to clean the engine for re-sale. What are the symptoms of a leaking manifold, other than the obvious spots on your garage floor? I want to address this before my warranty is up. Thank you again.
Tell your dealer you are loosing coolant and request a pressure test of the cooling system. It's important to catch especially if there is an internal leak.
I love my LS and plan to keep it a long time. But I'm going to keep agitating till this problem gets the attention it deserves.
I've seen several posts about EGR and I'm wondering if this could be my problem. Would you guys recommend I take it to the dealer? If it is the EGR, do I have to pay anything out of pocket? I've got about 65K miles on my 2000. Any help you can provide would be appreciated. I had to replace the tranny at 40K and have had lots of other small problems. I'd like to find out if this will be another disaster or just a small speed bump in my ownership experience.
I'm trying to stick with better name fuel ( no more discount stuff), and will probably start regularly running fuel injector cleaner through (a friend suggested using it with each oil change). May not make a difference, but certainly won't hurt anything.
I have a 2000LS which had the change oil light come on. I had the oil changed at a 30 minutes less place, but the message still keep coming on when I start the car. I tried the light switch trick, but that didn't work. Am I missing something here? Any help would be great.
Thanks!
BRAD
Any thoughts/sources for better pads (or rotors, calipers, etc.) to improve the brake system?
I had the rotors changed (not turned) as well as the pads changed, and it felt like a brand new car in terms of brake performance. Just your usual medium priced Bendix parts, nothing fancy or expensive. You may want to find out how expensive it can get to go with performance parts if you may not really need them. Do you do a lot of street driving or mostly highway? Are you hard on your brakes? I dont have any mods on my Base Impala, saving my money for the Impala SS, when it (hopefully) comes out. At that point, I would totally consider springing the $$$ for premium parts. Heck, maybe even premium gas!
What I do have a problem with is the 232.00 they are charging me for doing the ISS for the 2nd time. The first time was under warranty. This time he said they are putting on a new one with some new plastic piece to it (?).. anyway I told the service manager that it should be covered by GM since this is the second fix, he told me that GM calls this a "maintenance issue" and that I have to pay for it unless they issue some sort of recall.
Has anyone else had to pay for ISS after their warranty was up?
Brakes - Rattling Noise
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-O11A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rattle Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle
(Install Front Brake Caliper Service Kit)
Models:
2000-01 Buick Century, Regal
2000-01 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Venture
2000-01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette
2000-01 Pontiac Grand Prix, Montana
This bulletin is being revised to remove Chevrolet Lumina from the Models
section and to update the condition information. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-05-23-11 (Section 05 - Brakes).
Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoints shown.
Condition
Some customers may comment about a rattle type noise coming from the front of
the vehicle. This noise usually occurs at vehicle speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph)
and while driving over bumps. The noise can usually be eliminated by a light
application of the brake pedal.
Cause
This condition may be caused by too much clearance between the front brake
caliper bracket and the caliper pins in the bottom of the bracket bores.
Correction
Install front brake caliper service kits to both sides of the vehicle using the
following service procedure. Each kit contains 2 pins, 2 boots, and 2 packets of
grease.
Service Procedure
1.Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the
Vehicle in General Information.
2.Remove both the front tire and wheel assemblies.
3.Hand tighten 2 wheel nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
4.Install a large C-clamp (2) over the top of the brake caliper and
against the back of the outboard brake pad.
5.Tighten the C-clamp until the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper
bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
6.Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
7.Remove the caliper pin bolts (3) and discard. New bolts are supplied
with the service kit.
8.Remove the caliper (1) from the caliper bracket (2) and support the
caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent.
9.Using a flat bladed tool or punch, carefully tap the caliper pin boots
from the brake caliper bracket and discard.
10.Remove and discard the bushings from the brake caliper bracket bores.
Carefully insert a small screwdriver into the brake caliper bracket bore,
then rotate and pull the bushing outward to remove.
11.Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
12.Thoroughly clean the brake caliper bracket bores of all lubricant.
13.Install the brake pads to the brake caliper bracket.
14.Lubricate the brake caliper bracket bores. Divide the large packet of
grease, P/N 18046532; put one-half packet into each bore.
15.Lubricate the new caliper pin boots. Use the small packet of grease,
P/N 18046645, only on the bottom internal threads (2).
16.Install the new caliper pin boots into the caliper pin bores (3) on the
bracket. Carefully tap boots into bores using a deep well socket or
equivalent.
17.Install the caliper over the rotor and onto the caliper bracket. Ensure
that the caliper pin boots are not pinched.
Important :The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the
assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design.
18.Install the new caliper pin bolts (1). It is important to note which
caliper pin is designed for the correct bore. The leading caliper pin, or
top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin,
or bottom pin, is a solid design. Ensure that the bolt boots fit securely
in the groove of the pin bolts. Be sure not to pinch or tear the boots. If
the boots are damaged, they must be replaced.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 95 N.m (70 lb ft).
19.Remove the 2 wheel nuts retaining the rotor to the hub.
20.Repeat the above steps for the other side.
21.Install both the front tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten the wheel
nuts using the J 39544 kit.
22.Lower the vehicle.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
b4z--I just had this work done on my 2000. No More rattling. (Ken)
All the issues were taken care of under warranty except the odor. The dealer said they have some cars that do this, they knew exactly what the fix would be, but said that Chevrolet REFUSED to pay for it as a warranty repair because "it's technically not a mechanical failure, but is considered an environmental issue". The mildew is formed in the evaporator, which needs to be taken out and "Flushed and cleaned". It apparently normally only happens in California and Florida and is caused by running the AC with the windows down ?!????!
The fix (probably only temporary) isn't particularly expensive - $120 - but it's the principle of the thing to me. This is obviously a known issue and a design defect - none of our other cars (GM or otherwise) have ever had this problem. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A TSB ADDRESSING THIS? The dealer said they didn't know of one but I'm not sure I believe them.
Thanks for any help.
The problem is that you get mildew growing in the evaporator and the ducts. If the ducts and evaporator are wet for 3weeks/month, fungus moves in. Period. Happens on any car. Happens on home AC too, except there it's usually called Legionnaires' disease.
There's a lot of ways to prevent it, but essentially the idea is to dry the ducts every once in a while.
-Run it with the vent on but the compressor off from time to time. This will dry them out and prevent buildup.
-Put it on recycle mode (internal air) and spray some lysol in the intake, then immediately shut off the vent after you spray a bit. The Lysol will stay in there overnight, and dry the mess out, along with killing the mildew and preventing it from being in there for a time.
-Half a dozen other ways using other products besides Lysol.
The point being that it's not a design defect as such, it's just the reality of an HVAC system. Cars have been doing this since they put in the first AC unit.
I have never ever had this problem in my '01 Impala LS because I typically run the A/C in the "Recirc" setting for no more than 30 minutes and after the car has reached a comfortable temperature level inside then I switch to "Fresh" mode and therefore the cabin air is continously refreshed.
I hate to tell you this but your dealer ripped you off in your face by charging you $120 for a fix that probably will not last for more than a month. To combat A/C system mildew is a very easy procedure and one that you can do by yourself and for free...it only takes 15 minutes every month or couple of months depending on the time of the year. Here is what you need to do:
1) Start engine
2) Allow engine to reach normal operating temperature if the car has been parked overnight or for several hours.
3) Set the interior temperature controls to maximum heat. If you have an Impala LS with the dual zone temperature controls, slide both switches up to maximum heat.
4) Make sure the system is in "Recirc" mode
5) Set the fan to maximum speed (Position 5)
6) If the A/C compressor is on, switch it to off by pressing the button with the snowflake or A/C label in it.
7) Make sure the airflow is directed to the dashboard vents ONLY.
8) Exit the vehicle and close the doors/windows.
9) leave vehicle's engine and heater running for about 15 to 20 minutes depending on the severity of the mildew smell.
10) The excessive amount of heat will kill and dry off any existing mildew in the inner ventilation passage ways.
11) Repeat procedure as needed until odor is eliminated.
12) When you run the A/C again, initially leave it running in "Recirc" for 10 minutes, then switch to "Fresh" mode. This will discharge any remaining burnt mildew out of the vehicle from the outer exterior vents.
13) GOLDEN RULE: Initially leave running A/C in Recirc for no more than 30 minutes, then switch to "Fresh" airflow settings. Never leave the A/C running in Recirc all the time while driving.
14) You will never have to deal with this problem again and get ripped off at the dealer.
Important note: Avoid the temptation of spreaying a can of Lysol on the exterior vents to kill the mildew. Often this makes the problem even worse after a while.
I had a couple of Acura vehicles with the same problem in the past and this little method was effective in eliminating the nasty mildew odor and saved me $$$$ in ineffective anti-mildew methods.
Good luck and if I were you, I would never comeback to that dealer.
I guess the good news is I didn't let the dealer do his service so I'm not out the $$$. I'll try your methods.
Drivinisfun: Will running the heater help the mildew in the evaporator?
otto42: If I understand your procedure, I spray Lysol in the intake w/ it running in RECIRC mode, let it get throughout the system then cut the car off, close the vents, and let it sit overnight - hopefully killing the mildew throughout the system.
Then I can do the heat only procedure to clear everything out. Oughta work!
Thanks again. I always thought the most efficient way to cool a car is w/ recirculation so that you weren't trying to constantly cool the superheated (here in florida) outside air. Oh well. I 'll give this a shot.
Larry
Thanks...Mark
Thanks.
I called the service writer at the dealership w/ this info and he started to back-pedal immediately. It seems his Service Director had laid down a policy that they would not do that particular warranty service any more. Seems pretty sleazy to me after I specifically asked last week for the associated TSB and he claimed there was none and the chevrolet did not consider it a warranty repair.
Thanks for the links, there definitely is a lot of useful information!
I have had the intake manifold relaced as well. The dealer knew exactly what it was when I brought it in. $800....
No major problems since except a Yukon XL driving through me taking out the rear door, quarter panel, and tire... Oh well, it's just a car...
I finally managed to swing by AutoZone while my Check Engine Light was on. The logged code was P1404 which apparently signals that the EGR Temperature Sensor is not working. Before I call in and bug my service rep at the dealership, I wanted to get the lowdown on the deal from folks who probably know...
Should I expect to pay for this repair? My car has 67K miles on it. Has anyone else been thru the same situation?
Thanks in advance!
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
The clunking in the brakes and steering column were fixed with simple lube in the shaft I guess. Also had a clicking noise when turning the wheel. They solved that by doing something that required adhesive and had to sit over night. At least it was fixed. I can't believe some people have had to have their shaft and cradle replaced. That's terrible.
I have had a power window switch go out as well. Also the engine stuttering at take off as well.
My latest deal which is on it's third repair is a leak in the trunk. Anyone dealing with this. One more unsucessful repair and it's a lemon!!!
Don't forget people, 4 attempts and it's a lemon.
Anyway, neat board, I will be reading up on all the problems. I am seriously considering trading it in on an import after the warrenty. I don't want this car sending me to the poor house with all the repairs I have had. They are lucky their service dept is open on Saturdays. They know me by name now!!!
Good luck to all of you!!
Nicole
What is the symptom of the manifold problem that everyone is having. I am trading it in, but since I am under warrenty, I would love to get things taken car of for the next prospective buyer. What do I ask for. I don't think they like me very much over there at the service shop, I have a water leak in the trunk that has been in there 3 times. So I need to go in and demand what I want to get them to loo at it again. What do I say and do I have to have symptoms ALL the time to demand a check at their cost/warrenty?
Thanks.
Other than that, I got the clicking and the clunk fixed, both different problems and fixes.
I can't imagine anyone keeping this vehicle past its warrenty period. Why should we shell out money for repeat fixes on manufactures defects? Not fair. I have never had a vehicle have soo many problems. My 94 dodge shadow (10 grand) was never in the shop.
Anyway, thanks for the help.
I did have the "check engine" light come on, which read as a "misfire on cylinder 4". They attributed it to clogged fuel injectors, but within a couple of weeks, I was back in for the coolant problem. I personally think the misfire could have been due to coolant getting INTO cylinder 4, but they discount that at this point.
They should do a pressure test, which should make a leak easy to find.
Does anyone know if the Impala 3.8 is/will be included in the recall that affected some earlier GM vehicles for this manifold warping issue?