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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Mine was built on a Tuesday (3/14/00; I special ordered it that January, and called frequently to find out the status when it was being built). I've still been plagued with ISS, intake manifold, warped rotors, cradle ticking, etc.

    Of course, the next day was the "Ides of March", and St. Patrick's Day was that Friday; so maybe it was just a bad week in general.
  • morphius909morphius909 Member Posts: 67
    Well, the old alternator konked out after 73,000 kms. Cost me 300 bucks to get a new one. Yup, the warranty is over and I shudder to think what will now begin to break down.

    *SIGH*
  • colie74colie74 Member Posts: 42
    Hey txguy, I have my invoice here, I'll provide you with all the info off of it. Hope it helps, it has the part number on it, hope it isn't some internal number they use.

    "Pressure tested cooling system and found uppper intake manifold leaking coolant. Replaced upper intake manifold and transfer components."

    FP Number Description
    17113136 Manifold 3.265 R

    I asked the guy again as I walked out if it was truly the newly designed manifold and he said yes.

    BTW, I have always seemed to have good luck with my repairs. Seems everything has stayed fixed and was fixed on the first attempt with the exception of the trunk leak. But the ISS and the front end clicking have all been repaired first time out and so far have not re-occured. I seem to be on the later end of getting all these repairs done, maybe lessons learned?

    Take care
    Nicole
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    That's not the part number for my replacement manifold done back in January. Will have to check it out.
  • evilpancakewomevilpancakewom Member Posts: 35
    I have read about the rack and pinion (sp) "freezing" up on the new Impalas, esp. the law enforcement version. From what I read the driver cannot control the direction of the car due to the steering controls not fuctioning thus resulting in accident. Has anyone else had this experience? This has also happened in a lot of other GM vehicles.
  • hogboyhogboy Member Posts: 84
    I am not sure if the upper intake p/n# 17113136 is the new part. In checking another Impala site I noticed this exact p/n# posted on the site and it has been there for quite awhile. One would think if they redesigned the part a new p/n# would be issued so there would be no confusion (hardy har har). I haven't spoken to my service guy in about 3-4 wks. At that time he said there wasn't a new part available yet. Since I will be switching dealers for all my repairs now it will be interesting to see what happens when I schedule our '01 Impala LS to go in for the 2nd time for coolant leak and the 2nd time for the flickering interior/exterior lights and the 2nd time for the lifting roof strips.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    I just had Llumar metallalized tint installed on my LS. I was assured it would not interfere with the AM radio reception (yes I listen to AM!). True in the city with strong signals, but out of the city reception is nil. There is some reduction in FM reception with weaker signals. It definitely interferes with the rear window antenna. I want to keep the tint for the obvious benefits in this hot climate. Is there any fix other than an exterior antenna or the front windshield variety?
  • kkc3kkc3 Member Posts: 6
    I've had my 2000 LS for 3 months now. 37K miles. I've had it back to the dealer 3 times already. On one trip, they greased the ISS,(clunking noise) and replaced the upper plenum assembly.(coolant smell) This was under warranty. These 2 things appear to be regulars for 2K Impala owners. Do you think I've seen the last of these 2 issues, or will they recur - say when my warranty runs out..............?
  • ghostwolfghostwolf Member Posts: 91
    I have tint and even before I had tint, the AM reception was just plain lousy. Even at night I have to manually tune to stations like WLS AM 890 which I can usually pick up with no problem.

    The FM is acceptable for me though. My tint is not metalic but like I say, I didn't get really great reception before the tint.

    I'm not sure what the back of the radio looks like but I do know that they sell AM antennas that are very small they might even fit under the dash.

    I guess all I'm trying to say is that I don't think your problem is just limited to you and I, I think that AM reception is just overlooked now days when they design these things.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    I have a 98 Olds Intrigue with the rear window antenna. I noticed for the first three years that the reception - both AM and FM - was weak when I had the rear window defroster on. Seems to have "corrected" itself in the past year.

    BTW, anyone remember the early 70's when GM had the antenna in the windshield? My father had a 73 Buick Apollo and the reception was bad no matter what station you were tuning in or if you were across the street from the transmitter!

    Deke
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    Since GM continues to replace the warping plenums with the same thermoplastic part, it is probable that the replacement part will also fail sometime in the future.
  • ghostwolfghostwolf Member Posts: 91
    Sure do remember that. My dad had a 73 Impala with the antenna in the front windshield. I think thats why he installed an 8 track player and used that most of the time.
  • emtbemtb Member Posts: 42
    Any tips on removing scratches? Someone suggested toothpaste?

    My Impala was sitting in a parking lot of a certain group *COUGHFIREDEPARTMENTCOUGH*, when someone stuck a magnet attenna on my roof to see how well it'd hold. When they removed it, instead of lifting it up and off, they dragged it. Now I have this like 2 foot scratch section in my roof.

    Suggestions?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I had my intermediate steering shaft (ISS) replaced under warranty on my 2000 Impala probably 18-24 months ago, but it's starting to have the same problem again. Mine was done early enough that they replaced it, as opposed to tapping it and putting in additional lube (which I believe was the most current fix).

    Does anyone know if there is a final fix to the ISS problem? If you have the lube added, does that solve the problem, or does it have to be re-lubed on occasion (and if so, is this something one could do themselves with a standard grease gun, or is it something that would require subsequent dealership visits to do)?
  • bh0001bh0001 Member Posts: 340
    I've had mine lubed twice. First time was at about 22,000km, second time at about 65,000km. The lube kit obviously is not a permanent fix. My dealer performed the first lube under warranty and the second lube at no charge as a "goodwill" maintenance item. I don't think it's unreasonable to expect GM or the dealer to pony up for the re-lubing of the ISS if the first time is done under warranty.

    I have no idea how the lube is actually added to the steering shaft.
    Brad
  • mard22mard22 Member Posts: 4
    I just found this section recently being a new Impala LS owner. I just bought a 2002 Impala ls and am getting a lot of road noise and a sort of rubbing or scraping sound, louder on turns. sounds something like a bad wheel bearing? Took car to one dealer and they said it was all caused by the tires. would appreciate any input I can get from any other Impala LS owners. MARD22
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    General road noise is probably due to the standard issue Eagle GA tires; I replaced mine eventually with Bridgestone RE910s and found them to be much quieter and more responsive (although I seem to have taken a slight penalty in fuel economy).

    As for the wheel bearing-type sound, that could be the intermediate steering shaft (ISS). If you feel a clunking when turning (or going over speed bumps) in both the steering wheel and the brakes, it's probably the ISS.
  • mard22mard22 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your info nosirrahg, I appreciate your input
  • khpchankhpchan Member Posts: 2
    If you own a Chevrolet Impala which its production was before August 2001, you could be vulnerable to costly transmission repairs.

    I am a 2000 Chevrolet Impala LS owner with 84000 km. I live in Canada. My whole transmission is broken (inside), and the torque converter is discolored (perhaps because of metal contamination) and swollen. Everything is either damaged or burnt inside. I have to pay thousands of dollars to replace a new one.

    During the process, I have found a valuable document published by GM Fleet that they have already acknowledged that there may be a design defect in all Impala's 4T65-E transmissions production prior August 2001. Most importantly, they are fixing it under warranty repair for their fleet customers. Perhaps I am not a fleet customer or whatsoever, I have to pay my own repair costs and have had the worst dealer experience you could have imagined.

    So what I am trying to do here is to recommend all Impala owners to do the following: Check if there's metal contamination in the automatic transmission fluid. If the automatic transmission fluid is black, there's sign of metal contamination inside your transmission. You could check that by using the dipstick, or even ask a technician to open the fluid tank (or whatever that calls which hold the transmission fluid). If you find the color is black, you could contact me by e-mail. [email protected]

    If you don't do it immediately, you could feel sorry for yourself and perhaps you family. It is because the transmission could break down completely without any hints when you are driving 60 mph (100 km/hr) and your family is abroad. The best case scenario is that you pay only thousands of dollars to replace a new one. I am very serious, and I urge you to act immediately because it is about your safety, your money and most importantly the safety of those who you love.

    My name is Mr. Chan. My e-mail address is [email protected].
    The link of the document is:
    http://www.nafa.org/Content/NavigationMenu/Education_and_Events1/- Education_and_Events2/Law_Enforcement_Group_Conference/Manufactur- er_Presentations/GMLEG.ppt
  • emtbemtb Member Posts: 42
    Hi ya'all. I have a 2002 base Impala. It has 32,500 miles on it. I drove it into work this evening (15 miles), with no problem. When I left work tonight, I noticed that my cruise light was flashing. I put the car in park, and then started again, and it continued to flash. All the way home, it flashed at me. My cruise control would not activate either. If I held down both buttons on the steering wheel (as if I was deactivating the cruise), the light would stop flashing.

    After I got home, I opened up my car and checked the fuses. They were fine and reinstalled them. When I turned the car on, the cruise light had stopped flashing, but every time I turn on my cruise, there is a loud 'CLICK' from under the dash.

    Thoughts?
  • bh0001bh0001 Member Posts: 340
    The "click" is normal. Mine has done that since day one, other than I describe it as a "clunk" more than a "click" ;-) We discussed this at length quite a while ago.

    As to the flashing light - I have no idea.
    Brad
  • spark1espark1e Member Posts: 18
    My blower fan no longer runs on low speed. Only 2 thru HI. 2 is just a little too fast for most needs, so I almost always run it on 1.

    Does anyone know if the motor is supplied different voltages by the switch, or are there separate windings in the motor for the various speeds?

    Thanks, Doug
  • free_bsdfree_bsd Member Posts: 9
    Has anyone tried to pop out their ash tray? If so, is there a trick to it?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    FWIW - Took my 2000 3.8l base in this morning to have the intermediate steering shaft lubed (had it replaced under warranty about 18 months ago; got bad enough that I finally took it back today). My airbag light had also been on for some time (flickered occasionally, but generally it stayed on).

    I was charged $65 for labor and $18.15 for parts (lubricant) to fix the steering; $83.15 total plus tax. Made a HUGE difference in the feel of the car - steering is tight again, and I didn't realize how much noise it caused before. I thought I had a brake caliper problem because of a rattle I'd been hearing, but it's gone now. Don't know if this lube will be the long-term fix, or if it's something I can figure out how to do myself down the road or not; but I wish I'd had it done sooner.

    For the airbag light, they ran a diagnostic test, which led them to "repair and clean connection to LT side seat air bag"; which cost me $65 in labor (plus tax). I was also advised if the light comes on again, they will need to replace the air bag.

    I'm at @ 54,500 miles now after 3 years of ownership. Planning to drive it into the ground (at least 5-7 more years). Despite the various problems I've had with the car (intake manifold, ISS, loose seat back, etc.), I still enjoy driving it, and haven't wished I'd bought anything else. Granted, I have wished I'd waited and bought an '01 when they had a few more bugs worked out, but that's about it.
  • actofclassactofclass Member Posts: 1
    FYI, 2 wheel alignments, 2 sets of rubber, 4 new brake rotors with police quality pads ($$) Im at 60,000 and have had this noise since purchase, I wish GM would own up to the technicalities, still has a thump near rear, Im beginning to think it may be the alloy rims ova ling during flight, the rear wheel bearings feel fine under inspection. ps... and I have the iss click too.... also had to relace seat heater switch and air bag control unit (light was always on) otherwise it still is a great vehicle I paid 26,500 in Nov 1999 and there are alot of postings 4 these technicallities
  • jeger101jeger101 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Impala has survived one winter; however the dealer tells me that the 4 brake rotors are pitted due to road salt and need to be replaced. With 60,000 miles on it they are not covered by the warranty. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • chrisis30chrisis30 Member Posts: 20
    WOW 60,000 miles ain't no shame in that for brake rotors. I would be satisfied with that. by the way how do you put 60,000 miles on a car in a year? or was it a late model 2001 considered a 2002? still though thats a sh*t load of drivin.
  • xfordxford Member Posts: 14
    I have 2000 Impala with AM/FM/Casset radio (no CD). It "ate" a casset and I cannot get it released. This is not a case of the casset spewing out yards of tape and getting the tape wound inside the radio - tape and the casset are intact. When the radio attempts to spit the casset out, there is a little movement as if it is raising the casset but not much more than that. It looks like some kind of bracket is pushing it down. I tried getting it loose with screw driver and pulling on it with pliers but no dice. It is stuck solid. Does anybody have an idea how I can get remove the casset?
  • jimm7jimm7 Member Posts: 4
    Our local TV station (WIVB, Channel 4 in Buffalo, NY) ran a story about problems with Dex Cool Anti-Freeze. Several mechanics and customers reported that Dex Cool Anti Freeze, which is supposed to last 5 years, turns to a brown sludge and accelerates corrosion of internal parts, such as the water pump. Several of those interviewed had to replace their radiator. I wonder if anyone out there has any information about Dex Cool problems and whether or not GM will repair damage caused by such problems after expiration of the normal warranty.
  • artdarttartdartt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy Impala that is having a little trouble. It all started with the A/C shutting down along with the radio locking up, then the message center began to give these messages; check engine,alternator,and service engine soon. I took it to my trusted local repair shop, and they told me that my body sensor module was acting up and that the Chevy dealer was the only one who could fix it.The most irritating part of the whole deal is that Chevrolet will not give codes to the mechanic who is helping us out! Has anybody had this problem? My dealer says that only one other car has had this problem, why did it have to be MINE? GRRR!!!!! Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks so much!
  • cgallerycgallery Member Posts: 2
    Sorry if this has been discussed before.

    My mother has a 2000 Chevy Impala. Yesterday she picked it up from the dealer after they worked on the brakes, and drove it home. She felt the brakes weren't quite right and asked my brother to test drive the car for her and let her know his opinion (he has operated the car before so his opinion is of some value compared to, for example, mine).

    Upon backing it out of the garage, my brother discovered that the steering wheel turned freely. It has become "disconnected" from the rest of the steering assembly.

    They (my mother and brother) called AAA, and the truck driver mentioned that there seemed to be a part missing. He said that it was either a knuckle or part of the knuckle. I need to speak to the truck driver more. But, he said he had never seen suck a thing before.

    The car has been towed to a different dealership to have them examine the problem, but I'm wondering if this is a typical issue. The previous dealer has disassembled the steering column at least once (last November) for some issue, I'm hoping my mom can find the paperwork.

    I'm thankful my brother didn't make it to the expressway, but I'm thinking that I'd like my mom to trade the car in on something that doesn't have any steering column issues. Am I over-reacting?

    And, is there anything I should specifically ask the dealerships about the condition of the steering column? Andthing I need to know to speak with them intelligently?

    Thanks,
    Phil
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    Police package Impala's had 2 or 3 incidents of something similar in the steeering happening in accident or obscenely rough driving incidents. That is such a BIG issue I would go back to the dealer with her and really stir up trouble. I cant imagine her having much confidence in the car after something like that. Maybe even ask another dealer to fix it if the first dealer or GM regional manager will approve paying the bill for sending it toanother dealer. The mechanic(s) at your dealership obviously arent paying attention to what they are doing. Really, push to have it fixed at another dealer. If your 3/36k mile warranty isnt up yet, ask them to extend it another year or 12k miles because of this screwup and the fact that you dont trust the work they did on the car. They may be open to accomodating the extra warranty request (Regional GM Manager should give it to you in writing).
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Make a complaint via the web to the NHTSA. Luckily, no one was hurt.
  • sim3sim3 Member Posts: 66
    My turning signals started living their own life (i.e. signalling without telling it to), and I took it to a shop to have it looked after. They said the turn signal switch & electronics was broken and that I'd need a new one.

    As luck would have it, I live in Finland and the local shop gave a $800 price for the part. That's somewhat too much, considering gmpartsdirect.com sells it for less than $200.

    Now, I _think_ the part I want is GM part# 26093873. I've been unable to really find any information or pictures on it anywhere. I wonder if someone could help me and say whether this is the right part for a 2001 Impala LS.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    The mechanics I talk to say stay with Dex Cool, but change it at least every 3 years or 36,000 miles. It does break down and become corrosive if left in for long periods.

    Another PM often overlooked is changing brake fluid. Brake fluid attracts moisture. Modern braking systems can't handle the corrosion set up with moisture in the system. Better to flush the brake system every couple of years than replace a $1500 ABS computer.
  • t_tookalookt_tookalook Member Posts: 29
    Received a notice of recall for my '03 Chev Imp
    3.8. This engine may develope a coolant leak at
    the upper intake maniford to throttle body gasket or the lower intake to upper intake gasket.
    They replace about 3 fasteners, takes about 1/2 hour.
    Also two of my 'buddies' and myself had to have the emergency brake adjusted. Anyone else?
    Rodger
  • jeirichjeirich Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Impala and it has happened before. I've done a little research but no one has said how they fixed it. The other night it rained really hard. My wife and I were getting ready to head over to her dads and the pass floor board was full of water. I look at the cabin filter and noticed that it was damp. I looked like that it ran right down through the blower motor. A few of the seals looked worn. I'm going to try and call the local dealer and see if they've run across this. I might try and replace all of the seals around the cabin filter.

    If this has happened to you, could you please let me know who the dealer or you fixed it. My car is not under warrenty anymore and I'll fix it myself if possible.

    Thanks,

    Jon
  • bradharmerbradharmer Member Posts: 15
    Hi,

    I recently had the recall work done on my manifold which fixed the problem with leaking coolant. However, since I've had the car back, my coolant light keeps going off and on. My levels are fine and the car is running cool at a cucumber. Anyone have an idea how to get the Gremlin out of my coolant light?

    Thanks!

    BRAD
  • free_bsdfree_bsd Member Posts: 9
    Brad, I had a similar problem. It came up on the second day I owned the car too. (purchased a 2000 used) It turns out the Dexcool in my car became VERY corrosive, and killed the sensor.

    Get this, I took it in to get fixed, and they only replaced the sensor; 3 days later, the old DexCool ate the new sensor too.

    The dealer finally gave in, and replaced the both the sensor and the Dexcool. I haven’t had a problem since.
  • allchecksallchecks Member Posts: 25
    I seem to have this problem in a 2000 LS that I bought used w/50k on it. Now have 60k and it is getting worse. I have read posts from Page 18 on. No one has indicated where the ISS is located. In the cabin? Outside the cabin starting at the steering knuckle perhaps and going towards the cabin? Have not read that anyone has fixed this problem himself. Has anyone? I am not a mechanic, but I can turn wrenches. I replace brakes, radiators, water pumps, etc. If this is going to be recurring I would like to know how to fix it myself. Where does the lubricant get applied? In earlier posts found some excellent links to web sites of pictures related to the coolant leak/warping head problem. Anything like that available for the steering shaft/engine cradle?

    I assume the engine cradle is what the engine sits on in the engine compartment. I can't picture using adhesive here, but I read that it is done. Has anyone done this himself? How, where? What adhesive? Then let the car sit for 24 hours after applying?
  • tepst12tepst12 Member Posts: 8
    Post #690 listed the same problem I am having as of recent.

    Turned on the car when I was leaving work and cranked up the AC. AS the car cooled off I lowered the switch from 4 to 2. Eventually 2 was too much so I switched to 1. I noticed it was a bit more quiet than normal, in fact there was almost no air flow from the vents. I fooled with every control for a while, but can't seem to figure it out.

    My question is this, is it the motor or the switch? I'll have to check voltage to see....
  • rbslosbergrbslosberg Member Posts: 6
    Somehow my son has switched the odometer in our 2000 LS from miles to Km. Any ideas how to switch it back!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    If you've got the driver information center (DIC/trip computer), you have to press down a couple of buttons simultaneously on it to switch back and forth from standard to metric. I'm not sure how things switch if you don't have the DIC.
  • sirod75sirod75 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 2000 Impala LS over a 100k. Everything seems great with the car but I have only one problem, when the car is standing still in any gear and when the air is off the car starts to overheat. I don't believe I have any loosing coolant issues. Do any of you guys have an idea what the problem might be?

    Thanks
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    Your radiator cooling fan sensor/switch may be faulty. If it doesn't overheat when your a/c is running then that is most likely the case. The a/c turns on the radiator cooling fan directly, but when the a/c is off the normal cooling sensor/switch isn't turning the fan on.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    Has anyone gotten any feedback on the use of sealant as part of the intake manifold "fix"? I'm not comfortable with that solution to the problem. It seems like a quick fix and a source of problems down the road (so to speak).
  • allchecksallchecks Member Posts: 25
    My first thought has been not to get the "fix". Putting sealant in the system cannot be good for it over the long haul. If it really works, who knows where it will work once inside the system.
  • rbb2rbb2 Member Posts: 70
    I had a friend tell me to get it done right away. My thoughts on the sealant is if it is bad GM is going to pay to fix that because we were only doing what they told us to do.

    My friends comments were:

    "Get it done now. If the coolant leak did happen, it could go into the engine and seriously damage it. The coolant is so corrosive to an engine that it can eat the bearings and screw it up permanently. No real way of knowing whether coolant is leaking into your engine until it's too late. By then the serious engine damage has occurred and you will then have to get a new
    engine. What happens a lot of the time is the coolant will leak slowly and then GM will stop the leak by fixing it, but some engine damage may already have occurred. You will never know until your car dies at 50,000 miles because the bearings went out. That's not something to fool with. I'm familiar with this cause Saturn used to have the same problem. People kept driving their cars, damaging them without even knowing it. GM would only replace the engine if it seized."
  • bh0001bh0001 Member Posts: 340
    Have encountered the first real problem with my '01 LS (84,000km / 52,500miles). The SIR coil (??) or cancelling cam in the steering wheel is going bad. The symptom was the air bag light going off and on intermittently and a slight grinding sound from the steering wheel when turning. If the air bag light is on, the bag will not deploy in a crash.

    Here's the kicker. My extended warranty does not cover air bag components (apparently this is farily common). I have AutoGuard for 5 years/165,000km purchased form the dealer when I bought the car. The service advisor at my dealer tried to get it past them under a different part name, but they didn't fall for it. Cost? $330 parts and $200 labour plus taxes!!!!!

    I'm going to push GM on this one. I don't think it's appropriate for a 27 month old car to have this type of important safety feature fail. I'll keep everyone posted on what happens.

    Overall I still really love my Impala!
    Brad
  • bh0001bh0001 Member Posts: 340
    Very strange. Got in my '01 LS this evening, started it up, and had no dash lights. Turns out that the fuse for the rear marker lights blew. Interesting design to have the dash lights on the same fuse as the rear marker lights. Everything else worked fine (headlights, front marker lights, brake lights, turn signals front and back).

    I replaced the fuse and everything was fine again. The the fuse blew again within a couple of minutes of me leaving my driveway.

    Off to the dealer again in the morning I guess. Has anyone else had this problem?
    Brad
This discussion has been closed.