Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

1121315171834

Comments

  • bh0001bh0001 Member Posts: 340
    SIR coil replaced for the air bag system. GM paid 1/3, dealer paid 1/3, I picked up the remainder (CDN$117 minus a $50 certificate I had from the dealer). My total cost was $83 - much better than over $600!

    Other electrical problem was caused by a defective headlight switch. Replaced under my warranty.

    "Hooloo" is back to as good as new!

    Great service from my dealer.
    Brad
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    I have consulted a couple of high end mechanics about the use of sealant. From the research they have done, they recommend it as long as it is done to factory specs. In fact, one of them is going to use the sealant in his LT-4 Corvette.

    My '01 LS is now at 63K and running strong. No squeaks, no leaks*, no errors.

    *I replaced the warped intake manifold at 48K.
  • mike65648mike65648 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 impala with 75,000 miles. the check engine light has started coming on. (not the message center warning) the other day it started flashing off and on.....but it dont flash on and off all the time. why is this warning coming on and then flashing sometimes?? i have not had any problems with the car.....other than this summer(last week) it was running hot......180 in the 100 degree heat.thanks
  • mike65648mike65648 Member Posts: 2
    i was wondering if i could purchase a decoder to figure out what the problem was..if so...what kind...where at...and how much?thanks again
  • jflynn65jflynn65 Member Posts: 6
    My local AutoZone will read out the trouble codes for free.
  • smilecrysmilecry Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I am considering buying a used 2000 impala with 35k miles on it. Tested it and really like the feeling. The only concern is the several posts I read here about its transmission dies in with low milage. Is it a wide spread issue for 2000 model? Thanks!
  • mvanzantemvanzante Member Posts: 7
    I recently purchased a wrecked 2003 Impala LS Sport that had taken a pretty big hit in the front. It's been a lot of work (and a lot of fun) fixing it up. As you can imagine, both front air bags fired in the accident, and are thus being replaced. However, I do not know exactly what else needs to be replaced on the airbag system. The airbags I got came with a control module (the one that's under the front passenger seat) although I noticed that it has 4 less pins on the connector than the one we took out (for the side impact air bag?), so if possible I will use the original.

    I was just wondering if anybody could tell me
    A.) Do I need to replace the control module since the previous airbags have fired, or will this module recognize the new bags?
    B.) Are there any other sensors for the airbag system (i.e. attached to the bumper or elsewhere under the hood) or do the bags and control module basically comprise the whole system?

    I'll have more questions as I go along, but thanks for the input.

    Matthew Van Zante
  • whippetcatwhippetcat Member Posts: 14
    I have an '01 Impala LS. The "Security" light comes on and stays on in the Message Center(it appears with a cold engine, not when you restart the engine after it's been running for awhile) and the dealer is stumped. It is back in the shop today and they are going to try again. This may or may not be in association with the DLR lights coming on. The dealer originally tried tightening the BMS (?) connections and claimed that would fix it. No go. Can anyone help me here?
  • cuda2000cuda2000 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2000 Impala with 39,000 mi on it on 9/9/2003. There was a TON of leaves and dirt in the lower front fenders! Basically, open one of the front doors, and look into the fender. There is a felt pad there. Move the felt pad up at the bottom of the fender and I took out at least a 2 cup fulls of composted leaves and dirt on each side!
    Has anyone else seen this? Is there any way to avoid this? Whats the deal with the felt pad? Shouldn't that be hard plastic?
    Also, I think this debris will probably get into that long plastic body side molding on the bottom of the car. Whats the deal with that gem of engineering? I live in Wisconsin, where they use road salt, so I'm afraid of salt getting into these places in winter and rusting away my car.

    Any thoughts?
    [email protected]
  • mvanzantemvanzante Member Posts: 7
    mike65648,

    I have read through some of these forums and found write ups about the "Service Engine Soon" light coming on because people have used cheap gasoline, which causes some valve (PCV?) to stick. They recommended fuel injector cleaner and purchasing higher octane fuel. You may want to try than and see if you get results.

    Matthew
  • mvanzantemvanzante Member Posts: 7
    cuda2000,

    I recently removed the fenders and lower plastic moldings on my salvage 2003 LS and noticed the same thing as you. It only has 3100 miles on it but there were already some small black rocks in the plastic moldings.

    However, I also took apart the wiper assembly area (below the windshield, sorta behind the hood). I noticed that anything that slides down the windshield will eventually sit on top of either the left or right side holes that drain into the fenders. It's possible that if someone neglected to clean out leaves and other stuff sitting there, they could decompose enough to fit through the drain. In my case, I'm guessing the car sat underneath the edge of a roof, and black shingle grit washed off the roof, down the hood, and into the moldings.

    As far as salt goes, unless salt is thrown onto your windshield, I don't think the drainage will factor in. Although, I will admit that I did find rust between the fenders and the body where they are bolted together behind the wheels.

    No matter how you slice it, salt will stick to your car in the winter. The only real solution is to not drive it in the winter! :-) The next best thing, though, is probably to wash it regularly (like once every week or two).

    Just my thoughts,
    Matthew
  • fx17fx17 Member Posts: 1
    I have a question that's sorta related to the leaves in the fender issue... Has anyone experienced water leaking into the front passenger side floor pan? I have a vague memory of this being addressed here. With the recent heavy rains here in Baltimore, I've had significant water intrusion. I figure it must be coming from the area near the cabin air filter. I removed the plastic trim and flooded the metal tray surrounding the filter but the water seemed to drain fine through the fender. Is it possible that the water is leaking through the filter and fan assy (I didn't want to test out that one)?
    If anyone has a tip on how to cure this leak, and dry out the dense padding under the carpet, I'd love to hear it.

    Since this is my first post, I'd also like to say a big thanks to all who have shared their experiences on this forum. You've saved me lots of aggravation with warped brake rotors, ISS clunking, and leaking throttle body.
  • cuda2000cuda2000 Member Posts: 3
    mvanzante,
    I think the leaves are not from the windshield area, its from the tires. The plastic wheel wells have a gap at the top towards the rear.
    The day after I cleaned the fenders out, there was a 3 inch twig in there, along with more junk. There's no way that twig got through the windshield cowl area, like you are thinking. And I'm talking about full leaves, like just fell off a tree.
    Anybody else taken a look into their lower fenders yet, to see what goodies thier car is hiding? Also, I wouldn't doubt that if that felt barrier gets moved or taken out, that there would be a ton of water getting everywhere by the door, which could get inside like fx17 mentioned.
  • mvanzantemvanzante Member Posts: 7
    cuda2000 & fx17

    I will have to take a closer look when I get my car back from the frame shop. I basically have to take apart the entire dash (various reasons... it's a long story) but if I'm looking for it I may be able to spot the path that the leaves and water take to infiltrate the fenders and passenger compartment.

    Also, I was just wondering if anybody had any clue about my airbag control module question.

    Thanks,
    Matthew
  • t_tookalookt_tookalook Member Posts: 29
    My brother has an '02 Impala and you can drive along about 10-20 mph on the flat, take your foot
    off the gas pedal and there is a 'clunk' like we
    used to get out of the old u-joints. They replaced the motor mounts but that didn't help.
    (I haven't had any problems with my '03 Imp)
    Anyone have any suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Rodger Ret-leo
  • mvanzantemvanzante Member Posts: 7
    Rodger,

    Check out the engine cradle on your brother's '02 impala. The 2000 cradles had a problem, but it was supposed to be fixed on the '01, so I don't think it would apply to his '02, but it couldn't hurt to check. Here's a link from www.impalahq.com that shows you the difference in the cradles:
    http://www.impalahq.com/HowTo/Engine_cradle.html

    Goodluck,
    Matthew
  • t_tookalookt_tookalook Member Posts: 29
    Re: 735
    Thanks Matthew,
    He used to live in Bellevue, now he lives
    on Whidbey. I'll pass it on.
    Rodger
    [email protected]
  • jimm7jimm7 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Impala with about 36000 miles. Recently, I had two episodes where the "SECURITY" message appeared. In one case, the vehicle would not "crank" or start. In the other case the message appeared after the car was started and the engine running. The dealer said he could not duplicate the problem. This problem does not occur on any predictable basis. The manual is no help - it just says the dealer has to be consulted. Does anyone have any thoughts on the "SECURITY" message?
  • notdeadyetnotdeadyet Member Posts: 14
    Msg from tepst12
    I had the same problem and it isn't the motor.
    The speed of the fan is controlled by a bank of resistors selected by the control. When I couldn't get any air on pos#1 they replaced a resistor and they don't have to remove the dash.
    part number is 15304891 resistor 092150.
  • whippetcatwhippetcat Member Posts: 14
    Please refer to my previous question (#727). The dealer thought he had fixed it (tightened up the connections on the BMS--body module system???--it's the "computer center" brain). I brought the car home and the security warning came on the next morning. Brought back to the dealer again, who order the BMS and replaced the entire computer. Problem solved and the headlights are behaving now too (headlight and dlr lights were acting up.) Good luck--pursue the dealer.
  • ptmcg48ptmcg48 Member Posts: 2
    Hi there. Last week my check engine light came on when the fuel tank was approx. 1/2 full. I tried to put gas in the car (2000 LS) no fuel would go down the filler neck. Took the car to the dealer, and they cleared the computer. Check engine light was off, and I was able to fuel up. Same thing happened again yesterday...check engine light, could not put gas in the car. Happened at different stations, so not the particular pump. Dealer is working on it, but cannot figure out what this is all about. Any thoughts out there? Thanks for any input.

    Paul M.
  • bh0001bh0001 Member Posts: 340
    The driver's seat lumbar support in my '01 LS collapsed recently. The dealer looked at it yesterday as part of the 90,000 km service. Apparently it is actuated by two cables, both of which stretched and snapped.

    Here's the kicker. Because these are mechanical parts that are attached to the frame of the seat, they're not covered under my extended warranty. If the lumbar support had been electric, it would have been covered. They want $410 to fix it. Not going to happen!

    I'm going to take it to a different automotive seating place in town to see if they can at least stuff some padding or something into it. With the support completely collapsed it's not very comfortable.
    Brad
  • ptmcg48ptmcg48 Member Posts: 2
    According to the dealer: the gas tank purge solenoid was not releasing (whatever that is). They had to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pressure sensor and re-install the tank. All of this conveniently not covered by extended warranty ($400.00). Seems ok at the moment, and fingers are crossed.

    Paul M.
  • feeblemind101feeblemind101 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy impala w/ the 3.8 engine.

    At about 84,000 miles the car would hesitate shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. Found out this was a common problem and with the pressure control solenoid and had it fixed at a local AAMCO. Was qouted 450.00 ended up paying 900.00 for additional parts and gaskets. After I picked the car up I noticed the steering was INCREDIBLY loose. I called them up and they said that they did nothing in the process of fixing the tranny that could have affected the steering because they "didn't even have to touch any steering components".

    So:
    1. Did i get ripped on the price of the fix on the tranny?

    2. Do they have to do anything to the steering when they drop the tranny to fix it?

    Thanks much
  • alexandroalexandro Member Posts: 1
    Dear all, thank you very much for your informative comments and remarks. I really enjoyed going through this site; it actually gave a wider perspective and more insight about the Impala. At the same time, it made me more and more reluctant to buy one especially after reading about all the problems that you guys had with your Impalas.

    I have been renting Impalas every one and then, I really enjoyed the drive and the smoothness of the car. But unlike you, I don't get to keep the car for long. I am still in LOVE with the car but I don't know if I should buy one any more. I was interested in buying 2002/2003 model, 3.4 liters, but what do you think? Would you really, and sincerely advise me of buying one or should I look for something else?
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    I first bought the 3.4, it was great, but I hadnt realized how many more options you get with the LS model. ABS, Trac Control, Fog Lights, Tire Pressure monitor. The firmer suspension is also great.

    The 3.4 Base was a great car, but it felt like i was driving my living room sofa down the road. Good thing you are looking for a used car, the price difference between the base and LS shrinks in the used market. Get the LS if you can, you will appreciate the extras.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    My 01 LS has over 72,000 miles now. Other than the intake manifold replacement and the ISS fix (both warranty), the car has been trouble free. It's a blast to drive and still gets 27+mpg at 75+mph. At least with the Impala you have a pretty good idea of what to look for in a used car. The problems and solutions are clearly identified. I wouldn't hesitate at all to buy another one, except I plan to put 200K on this one before I retire it.
  • civic607civic607 Member Posts: 2
    How can I by-pass the RPM Limiter on the '03 Impala I have to drive ?
    I can't more than 115 MPH out of it, then the limiter kicks in and down goes the speed o.
    Really irritating at times.

    Also, when is Chevy going to improve the rotors on the front brakes, 31,000 miles and am on the third set.
    5,000 more miles and we have to start paying for replacements. Now that is a bummer.
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    Not sure if i am giving you the correct names of the parts here, someone else might know better than me. But here I go...
       the 9C1 Marked Police Impala has a higher speed cutoff, if you have a 3.8 engine and can buy the PCM or BCM from a junkyard for a 2003 or newer wrecked police car, I beleive that would give you a better top speed. It may also change the shift characteristics on the Tranny.
  • this_is_nascarthis_is_nascar Member Posts: 199
    If your're kicking out at 115 MPH, there's something wrong, since the limitor is supposed to kick in at 107 MPG.
  • wmcdonald55wmcdonald55 Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone this is my first post from Texas. My wife has a 2000 Impala LS with 70k miles on it. We had the Intermediate Steering Shaft replaced at 30k miles under warranty. It is bumping through the steering column again so I know I need to replace it. Anyone know the cost of that part through Chevrolet?
    Also in the past few weeks the AirBag light would come on intermitted now it stays on almost all the time.
    Just in the past week or so the Trac Control light and the Brake light come on intermittently, they come on at the same time, remain on for several seconds to several minutes and then go off as you are driving. They seem to come on when I make turns. The weather is clear, dry and warm so I know it is a sensor problem or something.
    Also the outside temperature readout on the overhead console is wrong. Any ideas on the warning lights or the temperature readout would be appreciated. She loves the car and wants to keep it, so I want it to be as reliable as possible. Thanks for any answers or advice.
  • tepst12tepst12 Member Posts: 8
    Notdeadyet, thanks for the info.

    Where does the resistor go? If they don't have to remove the dash I am assuming that its under the kickpanels?

    I haven't been on here for a while; been pretty busy and have just been dealing with my problem. I appreciate the information!
  • t_tookalookt_tookalook Member Posts: 29
    I have an '03 Imp and I get the 'Security
    light' warning and I thought it was associated
    with leaving the Key in the ignition??? It's
    only happened a few times and the key was
    in it.???
    Rodger
  • tntitanstntitans Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2003 Impala LS and have noticed that if I turn the rear defrost on that my antena seems to not work, or at least have some interference. If I am not within 20 or so miles of the radio station I get static. I took my car to the dealer and at first they told me that "it's just a weaker station". My complaint was that you shouldn't be able to tell any difference in reception by turning on the rear defrost. My car is sitting at the dealer right now as they try to figure something out. While there I did try this on another car on their lot and did not get the interference.

    Has anyone out there had this same problem?

    Thank!
  • tntitanstntitans Member Posts: 3
    The dealership has had contact with GM concerning the antena/rear defrost problem. Apparently the rear defrost in this car is the antena. They have ordered some GM paint with metal in it to paint over the defrost. If that doesn't work they will replace the rear window, including defrost. I am hoping the paint works!

    The delearship claims to have never had this complaint before, and doesn't have an explanation as to what the problem with mine is.
  • tommy42tommy42 Member Posts: 70
    Poor radio reception or static ,increased interference, with rear defogger on Ref; Bullention 030844005. 1997- 2003Buick, Impala & Monte Carlo.
  • tntitanstntitans Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Tommy42. Just picked it up from the dealership. They told me that if the problem recurred, they would not paint again but would replace the rear window. They did find a break in grid 10, so that is where they painted.
  • mneely1mneely1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to all of the history of coolant loss. Bought new in Feb.2003 now have 35k, had service bullitin on replacing nuts and mistery junk put in the coolant tank. 5k miles later I'm down 1 gal coolant and coolant tank empty. Any suggestions before I go to the dealer...also should this give me the smarts to pay $1800 for the extended warranty for an additional 50,000 miles? Thanks
  • rammeyrammey Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Recently, my keyless entry remote stopped functioning. The local Chevy dealer checked the remote and told me that the remote is functioning properly and that the problem is inside one of the car’s modules. He also said that it should be replaced in order to fix the problem.

    Since I would like to try and fix the problem myself, my question to you guys is what module is responsible for the remote function and where is it located inside the car?

    Thanks,

    Ron
  • imp2000imp2000 Member Posts: 1
    Drove my 2000 Impala to the store. Came out after 15 minutes; turned the ignition key to start; starter would not crank and all lights went out as if battery were either disconnected or some kind of direct short was applied across the battery to kill the voltage. Released the ignition key and lights came back on. Repeated the same thing several times. Raised the hood and waited 10 minutes. To my surprise the car started. Could a defective starter be intermittently short out the electrical system? Any help would be appreciated.
  • hogboyhogboy Member Posts: 84
    Jay, check your battery connections. Our positive cable has come loose twice in less than 2 years and did the same thing your Impala is doing.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    That clunk in the steering is probably from insufficient lube in intermediate shaft. Your dealer already tried the new design part. At the dealer I work for, we've been repacking and sealing the ISS and have had a few comebacks for repacking. If you have a good relationship with your selling dealer, they may good will the repack. If they want to charge you, you're probably looking at .8 hours labor and some grease. At my rate, its about $60.
  • distantrunnerdistantrunner Member Posts: 5
    I used this site when I was searching to buy a car. I've been very happy w/purchase of 2002 impala ls. Those extra features traction control, leather, heater seats are great. However, started experiencing problem w/rear defroster - whenever I used defroster and tried to listen to radio, reception was terrible. dealer has repaired twice. The last time seems to be working, but already a smaller grid is defrosting slower. Feel like it's only time before radio goes as well.

    What's the problem w/replacing window? Would that cause further problems down road? Is it better to keep dealer doing repair?

    Thanks for any feedback.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    The rear window antenna is just weak for AM stations. I added a metalized window tint to mine and ruined all AM reception except the very strongest stations that are nearby. I am going to add a roof mount antenna since I have a long commute and enjoy AM radio too. I have not experienced any issues with the rear defroster. My LS just turned 75K.
  • loupie8loupie8 Member Posts: 5
    I am an owner of a 93 Lumina (was new and I really enjoyed it for the most part). Have the opportunity to buy a 2003 Impala Base model, 3.4 with many options that take it up a notch for a decent price. It was a trade in from Budget Rentals with only 17K and more than 2 years left on the warranty . I like the way it drives (so Lumanesque), felt OK after reading reviews in the AAA magazine, but after finding this discussion group, I'm extremely nervous about buying this car. I was going to buy it next week but I'm really concerned about what I've read concerning the manifold, ISS, etc. I can't afford new cars often, so I need this one to be reliable and long term.
    Need some honesty here from you guys! Should I take the plunge, or look at other options? The concern here is the repair record and potential problems. Would it be better to look at a new 2004? Won't have the options the 2003 has and I can't seem to find any significant improvements on the new model.
     Also, what is the website for recalls on GM vehicles?
    Thanks, Jo
  • challidaychalliday Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2000 Chev Impala and there seems to be a rattle or loose front end. When you drive the vehicle you can feel the rattle through the steering wheel. Also, there was some anti-freeze leaking at the front left side of the engine - looks like the intake manifold. Are these two problems common? Are there other problems with this vehicle?
    Chris H
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    I've got a 2000 Impala as well, but havent had those problems you report. The coolant leak problem is common, and there is a fix the dealer can make for you, however I am not familiar with the loose stearing. Check out one www impalahq com, he has the most comprehensive listing of TSB's and recalls, fixes, and install procedures for your Imp along with lotsa pictures.
  • tollelegetollelege Member Posts: 10
    I know this isn't the Chevy Celebrity forum, but those appear to have disappeared. Since the lock in question is probably the same for all Chevys of the late 80s-early 90s vintage, I thought I would ask it here.

    My precocious 6 year old decided to jam a twig in the trunk lock of my 88 Celebrity. I can still open the trunk with the remote electric release, but would like to make the keylock operative. It appears that the lock is riveted in place - at least that's my best guess. To replace the lock, I assume that I need to disconnect the bracket holding the trunk latch, then drill out the rivet. Is this correct? At a minimum, I want to still get in the trunk with the remote release, so I don't want to do anything that is going to prevent that capability.

    Thanks in advance.
  • notasoccermomnotasoccermom Member Posts: 55
    An experienced Impala owner here (2001). I have had numerous problems with this car (I bought it new) and would not recommend anyone buying one. As far as the rattle you feel through the steering wheel while driving, that sounds like the cradle bolts. Been there, done that. I would take it in and have them replaced, it fixed mine.

    I have also had:

    Transmission failed at 13.5K miles
    --Some internal transmission part went bad, took 8 days to diagnose, get the parts, and repair.

    Power steering column CLUNK noise
    --Intermediate steering shaft and rack replaced

    Power steering intermittently losing power assist while turning at low speeds (parking)
    --Inner power steering pump seal replaced (took taking it in 4 times until they could reproduce the problem, find the culprit and replace the right part).

    I am just keeping this car until my lease is further along and praying it holds up until I can trade it in without losing my shirt. Which at this point I will. It's worth about $9500 and my lease buyout is $18K. Pretty sad for a car I hate now. As far as the ride, feel, style, and looks, I love it, but I am constantly worried that something's going to go bad, and it's out of warranty now.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    As an 01 LS owner I have gone through the warped manifolds, driver side window switch, steering clunk problems. All fix able and fixed. The car is a joy to drive, looks great and at 75,000+ miles is still rattle free and totally reliable.

    I browsed the Honda boards and what do I see? Warped rotors, loose seats, window rattles (a lot!), fading paint, timing chain and water pump issues common to Accords. Discussion groups tend to focus on the problems which is why they are so helpful to all of us.

    It just helps to put things in perspective sometimes. This is not to diminish the issues Notasoccermom is experiencing. That's a bad deal anyway you cut it.
This discussion has been closed.