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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Other electrical problem was caused by a defective headlight switch. Replaced under my warranty.
"Hooloo" is back to as good as new!
Great service from my dealer.
Brad
My '01 LS is now at 63K and running strong. No squeaks, no leaks*, no errors.
*I replaced the warped intake manifold at 48K.
I am considering buying a used 2000 impala with 35k miles on it. Tested it and really like the feeling. The only concern is the several posts I read here about its transmission dies in with low milage. Is it a wide spread issue for 2000 model? Thanks!
I was just wondering if anybody could tell me
A.) Do I need to replace the control module since the previous airbags have fired, or will this module recognize the new bags?
B.) Are there any other sensors for the airbag system (i.e. attached to the bumper or elsewhere under the hood) or do the bags and control module basically comprise the whole system?
I'll have more questions as I go along, but thanks for the input.
Matthew Van Zante
Has anyone else seen this? Is there any way to avoid this? Whats the deal with the felt pad? Shouldn't that be hard plastic?
Also, I think this debris will probably get into that long plastic body side molding on the bottom of the car. Whats the deal with that gem of engineering? I live in Wisconsin, where they use road salt, so I'm afraid of salt getting into these places in winter and rusting away my car.
Any thoughts?
[email protected]
I have read through some of these forums and found write ups about the "Service Engine Soon" light coming on because people have used cheap gasoline, which causes some valve (PCV?) to stick. They recommended fuel injector cleaner and purchasing higher octane fuel. You may want to try than and see if you get results.
Matthew
I recently removed the fenders and lower plastic moldings on my salvage 2003 LS and noticed the same thing as you. It only has 3100 miles on it but there were already some small black rocks in the plastic moldings.
However, I also took apart the wiper assembly area (below the windshield, sorta behind the hood). I noticed that anything that slides down the windshield will eventually sit on top of either the left or right side holes that drain into the fenders. It's possible that if someone neglected to clean out leaves and other stuff sitting there, they could decompose enough to fit through the drain. In my case, I'm guessing the car sat underneath the edge of a roof, and black shingle grit washed off the roof, down the hood, and into the moldings.
As far as salt goes, unless salt is thrown onto your windshield, I don't think the drainage will factor in. Although, I will admit that I did find rust between the fenders and the body where they are bolted together behind the wheels.
No matter how you slice it, salt will stick to your car in the winter. The only real solution is to not drive it in the winter! :-) The next best thing, though, is probably to wash it regularly (like once every week or two).
Just my thoughts,
Matthew
If anyone has a tip on how to cure this leak, and dry out the dense padding under the carpet, I'd love to hear it.
Since this is my first post, I'd also like to say a big thanks to all who have shared their experiences on this forum. You've saved me lots of aggravation with warped brake rotors, ISS clunking, and leaking throttle body.
I think the leaves are not from the windshield area, its from the tires. The plastic wheel wells have a gap at the top towards the rear.
The day after I cleaned the fenders out, there was a 3 inch twig in there, along with more junk. There's no way that twig got through the windshield cowl area, like you are thinking. And I'm talking about full leaves, like just fell off a tree.
Anybody else taken a look into their lower fenders yet, to see what goodies thier car is hiding? Also, I wouldn't doubt that if that felt barrier gets moved or taken out, that there would be a ton of water getting everywhere by the door, which could get inside like fx17 mentioned.
I will have to take a closer look when I get my car back from the frame shop. I basically have to take apart the entire dash (various reasons... it's a long story) but if I'm looking for it I may be able to spot the path that the leaves and water take to infiltrate the fenders and passenger compartment.
Also, I was just wondering if anybody had any clue about my airbag control module question.
Thanks,
Matthew
off the gas pedal and there is a 'clunk' like we
used to get out of the old u-joints. They replaced the motor mounts but that didn't help.
(I haven't had any problems with my '03 Imp)
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Rodger Ret-leo
Check out the engine cradle on your brother's '02 impala. The 2000 cradles had a problem, but it was supposed to be fixed on the '01, so I don't think it would apply to his '02, but it couldn't hurt to check. Here's a link from www.impalahq.com that shows you the difference in the cradles:
http://www.impalahq.com/HowTo/Engine_cradle.html
Goodluck,
Matthew
Thanks Matthew,
He used to live in Bellevue, now he lives
on Whidbey. I'll pass it on.
Rodger
[email protected]
I had the same problem and it isn't the motor.
The speed of the fan is controlled by a bank of resistors selected by the control. When I couldn't get any air on pos#1 they replaced a resistor and they don't have to remove the dash.
part number is 15304891 resistor 092150.
Paul M.
Here's the kicker. Because these are mechanical parts that are attached to the frame of the seat, they're not covered under my extended warranty. If the lumbar support had been electric, it would have been covered. They want $410 to fix it. Not going to happen!
I'm going to take it to a different automotive seating place in town to see if they can at least stuff some padding or something into it. With the support completely collapsed it's not very comfortable.
Brad
Paul M.
At about 84,000 miles the car would hesitate shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. Found out this was a common problem and with the pressure control solenoid and had it fixed at a local AAMCO. Was qouted 450.00 ended up paying 900.00 for additional parts and gaskets. After I picked the car up I noticed the steering was INCREDIBLY loose. I called them up and they said that they did nothing in the process of fixing the tranny that could have affected the steering because they "didn't even have to touch any steering components".
So:
1. Did i get ripped on the price of the fix on the tranny?
2. Do they have to do anything to the steering when they drop the tranny to fix it?
Thanks much
I have been renting Impalas every one and then, I really enjoyed the drive and the smoothness of the car. But unlike you, I don't get to keep the car for long. I am still in LOVE with the car but I don't know if I should buy one any more. I was interested in buying 2002/2003 model, 3.4 liters, but what do you think? Would you really, and sincerely advise me of buying one or should I look for something else?
The 3.4 Base was a great car, but it felt like i was driving my living room sofa down the road. Good thing you are looking for a used car, the price difference between the base and LS shrinks in the used market. Get the LS if you can, you will appreciate the extras.
I can't more than 115 MPH out of it, then the limiter kicks in and down goes the speed o.
Really irritating at times.
Also, when is Chevy going to improve the rotors on the front brakes, 31,000 miles and am on the third set.
5,000 more miles and we have to start paying for replacements. Now that is a bummer.
the 9C1 Marked Police Impala has a higher speed cutoff, if you have a 3.8 engine and can buy the PCM or BCM from a junkyard for a 2003 or newer wrecked police car, I beleive that would give you a better top speed. It may also change the shift characteristics on the Tranny.
Also in the past few weeks the AirBag light would come on intermitted now it stays on almost all the time.
Just in the past week or so the Trac Control light and the Brake light come on intermittently, they come on at the same time, remain on for several seconds to several minutes and then go off as you are driving. They seem to come on when I make turns. The weather is clear, dry and warm so I know it is a sensor problem or something.
Also the outside temperature readout on the overhead console is wrong. Any ideas on the warning lights or the temperature readout would be appreciated. She loves the car and wants to keep it, so I want it to be as reliable as possible. Thanks for any answers or advice.
Where does the resistor go? If they don't have to remove the dash I am assuming that its under the kickpanels?
I haven't been on here for a while; been pretty busy and have just been dealing with my problem. I appreciate the information!
light' warning and I thought it was associated
with leaving the Key in the ignition??? It's
only happened a few times and the key was
in it.???
Rodger
Has anyone out there had this same problem?
Thank!
The delearship claims to have never had this complaint before, and doesn't have an explanation as to what the problem with mine is.
Recently, my keyless entry remote stopped functioning. The local Chevy dealer checked the remote and told me that the remote is functioning properly and that the problem is inside one of the car’s modules. He also said that it should be replaced in order to fix the problem.
Since I would like to try and fix the problem myself, my question to you guys is what module is responsible for the remote function and where is it located inside the car?
Thanks,
Ron
What's the problem w/replacing window? Would that cause further problems down road? Is it better to keep dealer doing repair?
Thanks for any feedback.
Need some honesty here from you guys! Should I take the plunge, or look at other options? The concern here is the repair record and potential problems. Would it be better to look at a new 2004? Won't have the options the 2003 has and I can't seem to find any significant improvements on the new model.
Also, what is the website for recalls on GM vehicles?
Thanks, Jo
Chris H
My precocious 6 year old decided to jam a twig in the trunk lock of my 88 Celebrity. I can still open the trunk with the remote electric release, but would like to make the keylock operative. It appears that the lock is riveted in place - at least that's my best guess. To replace the lock, I assume that I need to disconnect the bracket holding the trunk latch, then drill out the rivet. Is this correct? At a minimum, I want to still get in the trunk with the remote release, so I don't want to do anything that is going to prevent that capability.
Thanks in advance.
I have also had:
Transmission failed at 13.5K miles
--Some internal transmission part went bad, took 8 days to diagnose, get the parts, and repair.
Power steering column CLUNK noise
--Intermediate steering shaft and rack replaced
Power steering intermittently losing power assist while turning at low speeds (parking)
--Inner power steering pump seal replaced (took taking it in 4 times until they could reproduce the problem, find the culprit and replace the right part).
I am just keeping this car until my lease is further along and praying it holds up until I can trade it in without losing my shirt. Which at this point I will. It's worth about $9500 and my lease buyout is $18K. Pretty sad for a car I hate now. As far as the ride, feel, style, and looks, I love it, but I am constantly worried that something's going to go bad, and it's out of warranty now.
I browsed the Honda boards and what do I see? Warped rotors, loose seats, window rattles (a lot!), fading paint, timing chain and water pump issues common to Accords. Discussion groups tend to focus on the problems which is why they are so helpful to all of us.
It just helps to put things in perspective sometimes. This is not to diminish the issues Notasoccermom is experiencing. That's a bad deal anyway you cut it.