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Comments
I think you hold it for a few seconds until the dash lights go out. This is how it's done with Hondas and it should hold true with Acuras too.
Make sure the headlights are off, otherwise it won't work. (Don't ask me why, I just know that this is the way it worked for me!)
Hold down the "trip reset" button while turning the ignition switch to "ON" (but don't start the car). Continue holding the button until you see the display change to +/- °F increments, then quickly let go before the +/- °F value changes.
This will keep the "Maintenance" light off for another 8,000 miles.
??????
Have other 04-06 TSX owners experienced the same problem? Is it related to rubber hood stops and/or hood latch adjustment? Wondering if I should take it in sooner or just wait for the 1st service in about 3 months.
Thx.
If you wait until it drops to 10% the car will _really_ become insistent that you take it in for service.
I don't believe there is a maintenance schedule to be found in the manual since it tracks this itself. Still, I'd probably never go more than 4-5K miles at most between oil changes.
Is this not the case for previous model year TSXes?
FWIW, I'm doing what the car and manual tells me to do. At about 4K miles, the MID told me, "Service due now - A" - A being the code for oil change.
Nothing really changed, it's virtually the same engine with the same maintenance requirements - it just went from a table in the owners' manual format to a digital version in the MID based on sensor inputs. Like the BMW method, it's probably based on the volume of fuel burned (not time, nor milage).
Is this plan worth it or did I get ripped off - one thing is that I can cancel this anytime? I paid almost $800 for it so its like 6 oil change/tire rotation basic maintenance. Then 3 of the 15000 miles services. So at $40 per oil change service, the three 15000 miles service is costing me $560.
Pls let me know what kind of charges have you paid for these kind of services at your dealership. I would like to change the oil myself - is the oil filter pretty easy to change?
Thanks!
I think my 5k services worked out to be $35 which is a little high but not too bad since it is oil change, tire rotation and car wash.
Curious - did you try to return yours or if you kept it, have you found it worthwhile?
Last weekend, I performed the 45,000 mile service and replaced the front brake pads on my Volvo V70. Total cost was about $80 and 2 hours of my time ($37 for brake pads, $36 for six quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic, and $6 for an oil filter).
I also changed the transmission oil on my BMW M3 just before Halloween. $18 for two quarts of Redline MTL synthetic transmission fluid and one hour in my driveway.
Visual inspection of fluid levels (brake, power steering, washer fluid, etc) and condition/security of belts and hoses are all that remain for these scheduled services. I perform them while the fluids are draining and/or before the test drive.
Doing your own service also gives you an opportunity to inspect the underside of your car for any problems (suspension components, exhaust system, CV boots, etc).
Call your local dealer service department or purchase a factory service manual to get fluid capacities and torque specifications.
It all depends on your inclination and the subjective issue of what your time is worth. Is working on your car 3 hrs/ yr (+parts) for 3 - 4 years worth more than $800?
Any suggestions on which brand and type of engine oil is best use for the Acura TSX?
Do you change your own oil or have a shop do it for you? Are you anal about changing the oil every 3000 or can you go longer? Are you concerned about the price of an oil change?
My cars get full synthetic (Mobil 1) oil every 5000 miles. Synthetics are good for probably twice that interval, but I like to be safe and I like nice round numbers. I use 0W-40 weight all year round, but your climate may dictate different viscosities depending on time of year and temperature swings.
If you don't want to pay for synthetic, I also like Castrol GTX (it's about 1/2 the price of Mobil 1). Even with dino oil, todays engines can go 5000 miles between changes - so that's what I would do.
I always use a factory oil filter. Take the time to go to the parts counter and buy 2 or 3 (and buy a couple of new drain plug washers while you're there). If you do go to a quick lube place, then bring your own oil, filter, and washer and hover over the tech to make sure they do the job right. Make sure they change the washer and don't let them overtorque the drain plug when they reinstall it.
I change the oil and filter myself because I don't trust others to do it (unless I'm standing right there watching). I also like to do it myself because I use this time to thoroughly inspect the undercarriage/engine compartment for other routine issues (belts, fluid levels, suspension bushings, tires, brake pads, leaks, etc.). I visually examine my cars inside and out probably once a month, but during oil changes, I actually look, touch, pull, shake, wiggle, and poke pretty much everything.
Well, that's my advice, for what it's worth.
Thanks!
Also, if my friend does it for me should I at least buy the filter from the Acura dealership? And does he need to do anything in terms of re-setting the oil monitor?
Thank you!
So, yes, you'll be able to take your car to a basic place to get it done, even at that they required maintenence is not expensive like the BENZ. The accord and the tsx share the same engine.
1) For those with the maintenance minder, follow it's recommendations. Changing the oil more than the computer suggests only costs you more money.
2) The K Series engines (TSX) can use some oil during the break in process. This is especially magnified when you have a manual transmission (you rev it higher). The oil should be checked at every fill up and topped off as needed. Oil consumption usually drops off as you pass 5000 miles.
3) New owners should keep the factory fill in the engine as long as the car suggests. There is a break-in additive in the original fill.
4) Lastly, most of our mechanics concur, use regular oil for the first 10,000 miles to fully allow the rings to seat. Afterwards, feel free to switch to synthetic if you like. This last suggestion is not a fact, but rather a generally accepted 'rule of thumb"
I am planning a trip to LA and San Diego in a couple weeks. Should I change the oil before or after the trip.. I am in SF bay area..
If not, you can still get it done, but it may take a few tries -- you're not going to hurt anything, so don't worry if it doesn't go well the first time.
Good luck.
Many say that the dealer replaced the block to fix the problem, rings alone are not enough. The oil consumption problem seems to only happen on a small percentage of engines and mostly 6MT which rev higher than the 5AT but, there may be more to it.
Both Honda and Acura say that is okay to use a quart of oil every 1000 miles with these high performance engines. Of course that is simply a CYA statement. I have owned many cars and none ever used oil at a rate of more than a quart to 7000 miles.
For the first 10k miles my TSX used 5 quarts of oil and then used about 6 during the second 10K miles and then went about 1200 miles before needing another quart.
At this point the Acura rep for my dealer says that there is no problem because I am not yet burning oil at 1 quart per 1000 miles.
I am truly in disbelief that Honda/Acura are not taking a more responsible approach to dealing with this obvious defect.
Anybody have additional info on this subject?
The question is why Honda is refusing to take action unless the engine uses more than a quart of oil per 1000 miles. No oil use versus 10 quarts per oil change interval is quite a spread.
I don't ever redline the vehicle but I do not baby it on my daily commute either. I've got nearly 20,000 miles so far with only 3 oil changes (one recently) and no oil burning. I check regularly and the thing literally does not burn any additional oil. When I picked the vehicle up at the dealership, I actually 'splurged' for an $8 quart of Honda's 0-20W synthetic that they recommend. It is still sitting unopened in my vehicle. I am at the point where I'm going to stop checking as the engine should be broken in.
I'm sorry to hear about your issues...hope you find some deserved resolution. You obviously have had bulletproof Hondas in the past so I can imagine your surprise.
The donut spare and the repair kit (can of fix a flat I presume) are both temporary fixes designed to get you to a tire shop so the flat can be properly fixed. The repair kit is cheaper and lighter.