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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Either I'm an exceptional driver, or I got the one Impala that doesn't have brake wear problems...I've got a 2000 model that just hit 95k miles yesterday, and I'm still running the original brake rotors (front and rear), and I've only changed the pads once (at @ 45k miles). Very early on I had the front rotors turned (under warranty as I recall), but that's the only brake problem I've had. I actually took the car in to my Chevy dealer last month with plans to have new brake rotors/pads put on it (figuring it was about time), but they called back and said I still had plenty of brake pad left, and the rotors looked fine too.

    FWIW I bought the pads at AutoZone and replaced them myself, which was a fairly easy task (once I got my jack stands and such together). They weren't that expensive (maybe $40 per axle), and I think they have a lifetime warranty.

    The last GM car I owned ('84 Buick Skyhawk) had to have new brake pads about once per year, so I was a little worried about brake performance when I bought the Impala, but I've been very happy thus far. My previous car was an '89 Toyota Celica, and as I recall it performed about the same as the Impala is now, under basically the same driving conditions (commuting to work @ 12 miles each way, with a mix of city and highway driving).

    I'm hoping to drive the Impala a couple more years...I might have to get new pads in a year or so, but hopefully I can just get the rotors turned and won't have to replace them.
  • tootalltotangotootalltotango Member Posts: 4
    I'd like to find someone who has had this headlight issue and had it fixed! What was the diagnosis, and what was the repair? Parts and labor cost, too, please.

    It's a shame we put this much money into what becomes essentially a big gamble.

    Good luck on the brakes thing.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I used the lifetime Autozone brakes too!
    I think Autozone is great!
    No problems exchanging the lifetime brakes (Duralast MKD814)
    I got 75k on my 02 Impala. I think I am on my third set of brakes. (Including the original set)
    The brake jobs are easy to do and the rotors are easy to change. Rotors are reasonably priced (about 30 dollars each)
    I don't think it's worth having the old ones cut. Check out Autozone or National Discount Auto for replacements.

    I do heavy stop and go city driving on a daily basis.
    (Very little highway driving and tons of traffic lights).
    Thats probably why I'm only averaging 20-21 mpg.

    I am glad that you are having good luck with your brakes and that you are an exceptional driver!

    One thing good I can say about my 02 Impala is that I have 2 of the original
    Uniroyal Tiger Paw radials still on the car. The stock tires held up great. I will probably change them out before winter.

    I am glad that you are having good luck with your 2000 model. I think I just got stuck with a lemon.

    :lemon:
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I had planned to have my rotors turned when I replaced the brake pads last time, but I couldn't get the caliper bracket loose, so I couldn't remove the rotors. They weren't in bad shape, so I just replaced the pads...40k miles later no problems, but when you replaced your rotors did you have similar problems, and if so how did you remove the brackets? I don't have an air compressor, and didn't have a big enough breaker bar to break the bracket loose. Thinking about buying an electric impact wrench and seeing if that will do the trick.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I just used 3/8 drive rachet and put a pipe over the handle
    for leverage to get the caliper bracket bolts off.
    I used a C-clamp to compress the piston back.

    Seemed like a pretty easy job.
  • fathertyriciusfathertyricius Member Posts: 116
    I had the same problem with my 01 LS. You need to change the turn signal stalk. When my headlights would go out, I would keep turning on and off the brights, and eventually the low beams stayed on. The replacement was done under warranty.
  • tootalltotangotootalltotango Member Posts: 4
    Since I first posted a week ago the problem has become more erratic. Not only do the headlights go off while on the road, sometimes they won't go on at all. I've had to drive holding the stalk in "flash" position because when I release it, I can't get any headlights to stay on. Sometimes I have no dash lights - so I hope I'm driving in "D" and not "3".

    I took it to the dealership this morning. I had used a spare key thinking that if there were an issue, I didn't want to have to stop and restart the car as that may make the issue go away. I had lights, I had dash lights, but I could not get the brights to engage. I left the car running at the dealership until they could "test" it. Sure enough, it's the Multi-Function Headlight Switch.

    From the looks of it, I will have to pay. I'll be back to post the parts and labor costs, and I will continue to update to let you all know if it did, indeed, fix the problem for the benefit of someone else who may encounter the same issue. I should have the car back tomorrow.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    My 02 Impala is demonstration early symptoms of Headlight
    "combination switch" problems. If it goes out I am going to atempt to change it out myself. I've done a couple on the earlier model Chevys.
    Does anyone know if you have to pull the steering wheel off to switch this out?
  • tootalltotangotootalltotango Member Posts: 4
    I didn't get to see the particulars of the multi-function headlight switch repair, so I don't know if they pulled the steering column or not.

    Now I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't know the price or part. I had purchased the extended warranty, and it covered everything. I did "hear" that the warranty got hit for around $400 (and it was around 2 hours labor), but that's unofficial.

    Believe me, I will be back if the problem with the headlights going out is not fixed.
  • tessmillertessmiller Member Posts: 10
    Okay, I have a 2000 Impala LS with 72000 miles on it. I have owned it for two years and I love the car...however. It stalls on me on occassion. And it seems to happen more if the weather is warmer or if driven hard all day....maybe that is just my imagination. It just goes out. No battery or security lights....maybe after a few minutes it will start and run properly with never a problem again OR it will do it again and again. Fuel pump? Fuel Filter? :sick: We replaced the ignition module on it because we thought maybe that was misfiring. We have it put on a computer by a mechanic(not dealer) and didn't diagnosis anything. Ideas? We are making a big trip with it in the next couple of weeks and would like this taken care of!
    Thanks! :)
  • rwmjwrwmjw Member Posts: 2
    I too have a 2000 Impala, 113,000 miles with similar problems. Its been going on for the past 4 months. I can be driving at 10 mph or 60 mph (speed doesn't seem to make any difference) the engine shuts off like I turned off the key. I put the car in neutral and typically it starts right back up and off I go. Was happening about once in approx 150 miles, as of late its happening more often. The problem is the shut down doesn't leave a diagnosis code. I have heard possibilities of a crankcase sensor, ignition switch, main computer, all expensive repairs especially if their not needed. Please let me know what you find out. I have been unsuccessful with my local chevrolet dealer.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Doesn't sound like the fuel filter, but it's easy enough to replace (and relatively inexpensive). Sounds like more of an electrical/computer problem than fuel though...I'd think if it were fuel related it would sputter and die slowly versus just going out all at once.
  • tessmillertessmiller Member Posts: 10
    I spoke to a friend who works as a Chevi mechanic. I was told that it could be a fuel pump or a fuel filter that is causing the car to stall....just turns off, no battery light or security light but radio ect still works, just the gages go to zero like I turned it off....and that using 'cheap' gas could clog it up or if it is not put back on properly it can cause the car not to get the full firing.
    So, that's my first step. And I may take into a chevi dealer to see what they can do.
    I am moving in a couple of weeks and traveling over 1200 miles, so I really need this fixed!! :surprise:
  • tessmillertessmiller Member Posts: 10
    I should add that we replaced the ignition module on it, thinking that it could be that. My husband ran it around town driving it every where trying to recreate the stall and it ran fine....he then came home let it sit and then went to a friend's house...it sat again for a couple of hours. He went out to start it and it wouldn't turn over. I just don't understand it.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Did you try replacing the "Passlock: sensor?
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    A high probably that it's the crankshaft position sensor. Shouldn't be terribly expensive, considering you've already thrown an ECM and an ignition module at the problem. Would be best to do some more troubleshooting. Next time it happens, if you're at home, can you check for spark with a tester?
  • bussmanbussman Member Posts: 4
    I have a short in my radio system . 1 had the radio replaced . This did not help. ran a hot wire to the radio from a another source. still did not help. Anybody have any other Ideas on what else to try. I have over 600. dollors in this all ready. I am ready to trade this car off. but I don't want to give this problem to anybody else.
  • cmimpalacmimpala Member Posts: 2
    A short can mean anything, describe in detail the issue.

    Or get an Ohm Meter and try the grounds and the power leads to figure out if it is grounding when it isn't supposed to. DO NOT forget the AMP in the rear trunk Deck it may be the culprit too? in a 2003 it should have been under warranty unless you went over the milage in the first incident.

    If all grounds are fine, then the power feeds should be checked. You can get a generic schema from any local dealership or audio shop.

    Let me know.
  • bussmanbussman Member Posts: 4
    I tested the short with the Ohm meter. there is about {1.6} amp going out the radio system. I unhooked the radio amp in the trunk. It cut the short to about {1.3}. I unhooked the radio receiver in the trunk. that cut it down to {1.2} amp. I cut out all the wires to the back of the radio one at a time . I found a{.2} amp in the power antenna. Now the radio has been replaced. It did not change a thing. Right now I put a switch in the hot wire to shut the juice off when we shut the car off. If you would have any other Ideas I would try about anything right now. thanks Dan
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    If all connections are fine, I'd say it could be a BCM internal short, or a partial short at one of its connections internally. A scan tool "might" be able to detect a communication problem, but this is just a guess.
  • 01impalals01impalals Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Impala LS Has 150,000 miles and running strong.
    The problem I'm having is that the battery will be dead after the car sets for two days. The battery has been replaced every 3 months for the last 9. No, shorts have been found. And on top of that my Fuel gauge only works when its in Park! I hope someone has Idea of whats happening!Thanks
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    If it is indeed the battery, perhaps it's an alternator, or a battery cable problem. Sounds like the gauge cluster is faulty, or the level sensor is dirty.
  • jdmturbotegjdmturboteg Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, I have a question about the security and a/c systems not working like they should on my moms 01 impala. I have never seen anything like this before, but then again I have always worked on hondas. The trouble is that sometimes everything works like it should, but then all at once the air will stop being cold; the message center will start to flash the battery then security indicators the radio will then read locked and will not work at all at this point. sometimes you can stop the car turn off the switch wait a few moments and try it again and everything will be just fine. then on the other hand most of the time when I try this the lights and everything on the dash remain on even after I have opened the door. If anyone has any helpful tips or tricks for this problem they would be a great help!! Thanks Alot you guys/gurls
  • urldrivingacarurldrivingacar Member Posts: 7
    The car always thinks the key is in the ignition. 1) Remote start won't work 2) Doors won't perform their automatic unlock when key is removed 3) With ket out of ignition (in hand) I open the door and the bell reminds me that I left the key in the ignition. On the phone the dealer is stumped. Thoughts?
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    Sounds like you need a new body control module.
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    I'd say there some kind of fault in either the ignition switch, or the body control module. Since the car is so new, I'd have the dealer scan and test the BCM functions. I once cured a content theft alarm problem in my 2001 3.8 by connecting the positive and negative battery cables together with alligator clips,(do not do this with the battery connected)but I don't recommend this trick with a vehicle under warranty unless absolutely necessary.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I agree with the previous post. It is likely the BCM (Body Control Module.)is defective.

    I had the problem with the "SECURTIY" light flashing and the dash lights flickering and after having the BCM replaced the symptoms were gone.

    The dealer charged $360 to replace it. I was able to get GM to reimburse me for half the cost.

    I really think Chevy should recall all these BCMs!
  • bosompalbosompal Member Posts: 5
    My 2003 Impala had the exact problem you have described. I took it to the dealer and for $415.00 they replaced the body control module. Which only a dealer can do because they said it had to be reprogrammed from GM.
  • kjoshnkjoshn Member Posts: 4
    I was having the same battery drain on my 2002 impala with 92,000 miles on it. The only thing that was malfuntioning was that my digital radio clock would lose about 15 minutes overnight. As long as I drove the car every day everything was ok, but when I let it set for 2 or 3 days the battery crapped out. After 3 batteries and many hours pulling fuses and doing a current draw test on each circuit I found that the clst/bcm fuse was fluctuating between 500 and 36 miliamps. I was told that the draw on an idle vehicle should be no more than 45 miliamps. As a test I reset the clock, removed the fuse, recorded battery voltage (12.5 volts), and left the car set for 24 hrs. The next day the battery voltage was still 12.5 volts. I replaced the fuse, started the car and to my surprise the clock didn't lose any time. I think the BCM is telling something to work when it shouldn't be working but I'm not going to shell out $300 until I'm sure it's the problem. BE ADVISED THAT THE CAR WONT START WITH THAT FUSE REMOVED, but I'm pulling mine whenever I'm not using the car until I get the problem solved. P.S. The clst/bcm fuse is 10 amps located in the driver side fuse panel. Hope this helps.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    BCM is the body control module. Helps monitor stuff like door position, chimes, etc. It is normal for it to draw perhaps 1/2 amp right after car is turned off, because some modules don't power down immediately. But after about 15 minutes it should be down to say 40 mA. To test this accurately, you need to close all doors, yank the fuse, and without opening anything measure the current. Maybe you already knew that. :shades:
  • kjoshnkjoshn Member Posts: 4
    The way I understand it is that the BCM controls just about everything electical in the car except maybe the engine and tranny. That's why when a new one is installed they need to know the vin number so every option that is in the car is programed in. Anyway, I did know about the doors needing to be closed. I hooked the meter up and laid it on the seat, closed the door and waited. It took about 5 min. to cycle down to 36 m/A's and another 5 min. to start cycling up and down from 36 to 500 m/A's. It stays on 500 for approx. 15 secs. and 36 for 5 secs. I watched this for about an hour and decided it wasn't going to stop. I just checked the battery volts again after 36 hrs. and it's still 12.5 volts. Put the fuse back in, started the car and the clock is keeping perfect time. So all I need to figure out now is it the BCM, cluster gauge assem. or the radio? Any suggestions anyone? For now I'm going to install a switch on that circuit and call it my anti-theft ignition kill switch. :)
  • 01impalals01impalals Member Posts: 4
    Update on 2001 Impala Still won't start after 2 days.
    Alternator is good, I haven't had a problem with the clock
    or the radio. I don't really wanna miss with the BCM, but its not ruled out yet.
  • kjoshnkjoshn Member Posts: 4
    Sorry to hear you still have your problem. Believe me, I know the frustation your going through. I don't know if you read post #1897, but that's the position I'm in now. I did put a switch on the clst/bcm circuit and have not had any drain problems since. When the switch is off the power door locks,power trunk, dome lights ignition switch will not work. I hit the power locks when getting out before I turn the switch off and then use the key to get back in. I'm not a cheapskate and I would have a new bcm installed by the dealer in a second if I knew that was the problem. But before I did all of the above I got socked $450.00 for an altenator by a gm dealer who said it was bad. I knew it was charging and I thought they meant it had a shorted diode or something that was leaving the current backflow so I told them yo replace it. When that didn't work I took it back and they said the old alternator was bad and maybe the battery is bad also or I might have another problem. Needless to say I didn't have much faith in this service dept. and said good-bye. The only other thing I can tell you is that disconnecting that circuit doesn't seem to have any ill effects to the car after it's reconnected. It starts fine, runs fine and everything works the way it should, including my clock and no more dead batteries. So that's the way it's going to be for me until I can find the exact cause of this drain. Good Luck to you
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    It wouldn't surprise me if it were indeed the BCM. Some of them develop minds of their own, and do thing like flash lights and honk horns. After 6 months of weird electronic
    occurrences, I finally had my BCM replaced (and programmed).
    Besides the common security light and no-start problem, the power locks wouldn't work, and, if you're familiar with the 10 minutes of accessory power you have after you shut your ignition off, well, after ten minutes, my BCM would shut down fine, and then a few seconds later, it would come on again for a few seconds, then shut down again. It would continue to do this indefinitely. The new BCM solved all the problems I had. :mad:
  • kjoshnkjoshn Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the feedback mrwayne. The problem you had certainly sounds like mine except everything works fine other than my clock loses time (10 -15 mins. in 12 hrs ) when the car is turned off. I guess every BCM has it's own personality. Well, I'm going to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer and have it checked. Could I ask you the approx. cost of the BCM and programming that you paid? Just so I have an idea when I'm quoted an estimate. Thanks again. :)
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    Labor was $173.11. The BCM is $187.45. With tax and misc. materials, I paid $380.50 (this was three days ago). This included installation, and programming (and a car wash). You can order the part directly from gmpartsdirect.com for around $97 plus $21 shipping. (The price of the BCM keeps creeping up. Last year it was as low as $84.) If you buy the BCM yourself, then there's the issue of getting it programmed according to your VIN. (So that all of your options can be programmed in). This is an issue that I've never been given a definite answer on. Some will say everything works without programming, others, especially dealers, say it must be programmed. I'd say the safest thing to is go to the dealer and have it done right, and get whatever warranties go along with that, although I can understand many people want to get around spending that kind of money (especially if they don't really have it). Be aware that some dealers try to charge much more. Some people have paid $500-$900 for this same service. The prices I paid were exactly in line with what GM says it costs (including labor time), which is about $360
    plus whatever your state tax is, plus whatever small shop and/or material fee there is. :D
  • jtactilejtactile Member Posts: 3
    Earlier in the summer, I had a similar no-start problem as many folks on here have/had. Pulling and replacing the BCM fuse did the trick to start the car, but now I'm plagued with a few odd problems:
    First, my turn signals had previously malfunctioned from time to time, but could be "fixed" by activating the hazards. Now when they malfunction, it's pretty bad and there's usually nothing that can be done.
    Second, when the car reads that it is dark outside (and the dash lights activate in a different mode), the dashlights are very very faint. At night, I cannot read my speedometer, tachometer or fuel gauge. This is ONLY at dark, though. The radio and other instrument panel related lights are also very faint.
    Finally, I'm encountering some difficulties with my power windows, but only on the driver's side. I can no longer press the button all the way down to roll my window up, but rather must keep it in a certain "sweet spot", which means being held about 3/4 of the way down.
    I'm trying to sell this car soon, and these little inconveniences are not going to help the matter.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I can't address the turn signal problem, but have some thoughts on the other two.

    The power window switch is a fairly common problem...same thing happened to me about three years ago on my 2000 Impala. I managed with the "sweet spot" approach for probably six months or so, and then finally one day the switch quit entirely (or course, with the window down). The problem is in the switch, and is easily replaced...but as I recall the part is @ $90.

    On the dash lights, you don't mention trying to adjust the intensity of the dash lights by turning the light switch on the dash - I'm sure you have, but if not it's possible it could be turned down, which would only impact things at night.
  • lisad620lisad620 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen to my 2001. I took it to dealership the first time , and was told it was the BCM, had it replaced. (375.00) Car stalled again before I got out of the parking lot!:sick: Took it to a local mechanic, and he diagnosed it without even looking at it! Turned out to be Crankshaft Position Sensor. It's been almost a year and still doing fine. The cost ended up being 80.00 including labor.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Any place that tells you a stalling engine is because of a Body Control Module is not a place to go back to. Glad you got your car fixed right!
  • mksweet80mksweet80 Member Posts: 6
    I am in the same position that you are right now! I have different dealers tellign me different things and contradicting one another! I am ready to pull my hair out! I have put over $450 into it allready and still be stranded all the time until the car decides it wants to start...I have a 2000 Impala and I used to love the car..now I am still trying to get peopel to listen to me and get this problem fixed...if you get any usefull information I woudl appreciate it. GOOD LUCK!!!
  • 01impalals01impalals Member Posts: 4
    I removed the BCM/clustr fuse and as I expected the car wouldn't start, and everything electrical quit working. But it did not help when I put the fuse back end after 36hrs car wouldn't start and had to be jumped. Any more suggestions? :sick:
  • mksweet80mksweet80 Member Posts: 6
    Well I found out the solution to the problem today by taking it to the dealer and spending almost $700 on parts and labor. turns out it was the Ignition switch and the ignition lock cyclinder the whole thing was bad...I recommend if you can do the work yourself woudl be your best bet because they soaked me for 4 hours of labor at $79 an hour plus parts which are way more exspensive at the dealer!! So far so good..I will repost if anythign arises but if it does I may just loose my mind! Any other problems with the car besides the not starting?
  • mksweet80mksweet80 Member Posts: 6
    I just went through what you have with the turn signals and mine did the exact same thing and I took it to the dealer and they were so familiar with this problem I hardly had to explain it...it is the hazard switch..the turn signals and hazards run off the same switch its really a pretty cheap fix! The switch itself was only $35 as far as labor goes I am not sure because I had other stuff done but I hope this helps!
  • kabstonkabston Member Posts: 1
    I am depressed after reading about so many others having similar problems as we are with the electrical system. My questions for those who have been there and done that are:

    1. Is a GM dealer the only one who can install and program a Body Control Module (BCM)?
    2. Should we just get the ignition switch and BCM done at the same time since one seems to mess up the other?

    A brief history of our issues with the beloved 2001 Impala with 85K on it:
    --Two weeks ago, the car won't start, although radio works, fan works, etc. Took battery cable off for a minute, reconnected, and car started fine with everything working.
    --A few days later, battery light comes on and AC isn't cooling, stop by Advance Auto Parts, they say battery and alternator are fine. Pulling out of their parking lot, none of the dash board gauges work. Stop for gas, restart the car, and everything is working fine again.
    --A few days later, we take car in for service, and our mechanic cannot find anything wrong using the diagnostic computer. Being the good guy that he is, he only charged us $20 for their efforts.
    --This week, several more incidents of the car not starting, and the battery cable trick is taking longer and more repetitions for it to work.

    Today we figured we should bite the bullet and go to a dealer, but after reading many of these posts, I get the feeling that some of them do not know what the root problem is. Money doesn't grow on trees here, so I do not want to end up trying this and that only to solve the problem after spending a grand.

    Any advice, comments, or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • mksweet80mksweet80 Member Posts: 6
    I can tell you from expereience I know exactly how you feel! I went through this for 3 months dealing with what everyone called a bad battery cable and finally paid to have them replaced and to no avail was still in the same spot.....I had the battery tested on top of it, the altenator, and the starter and had 2 different garages fighting with each other on what they thought the problem was and they were both still wrong! I finally had no choice but to take it to the dealer and the place I took it too they do the diagnostics on it and waived the fee for it if I had the work done there...once hey determine what it is you can check around and see if someone else is quailified to do the work.The Bcm if you have to replace it which I didn't has to be reprogrammed...the dealer also told me that the problems will not get better they will jsut get worse and eventually it will quit all together and I believe them on that because I went from having problems once or twice a month to at least 5 times a day!
  • 01impalals01impalals Member Posts: 4
    I have no problems with the car except after setting for 2 days the battery will be completly dead, so something is draining the battery and I can't figure it out. I tried removeing the BCM fuse, but it still would be dead after 2 days! I'm looseing my mind. Please Help!! :sick:
  • tcaintcain Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 impala ls with 95k miles and this morning the wife calls and says the the service ,track and battery light are on.took it to wal-mart to get battery and alternator checked and they said the battery was croded.they cleaned it and no more problem .I hop this helps some else.We really like the car no other problem except left front wheel bearing which i changed myself.
  • impala4looksimpala4looks Member Posts: 1
    ok here is the deal I went to put a system in my 2002 this morning (I have a stock radio I’m using a line out converter, if that makes a difference)anyway I go to start the car but the only thing that happened was my cluster went on it lit up and showed me how much gas I had and the message center was on but my voltage wasn’t showing anything I couldn’t lock or unlock my doors (using the power lock) also I couldn’t unlock my trunk keep in mind my car is in ACC at this point also I could put it in gear without pushing in the brake. I have no clue what this could be I checked all fuses and they were ok.i also checked the codes and nothing showed up.and yes the battery is fully charged.
  • mikmu41mikmu41 Member Posts: 1
    Recently, my 2003, with 70,000 miles, impala hasn't been starting properly. The engine won't turn over, and if it does, it quits right after she starts. Then after a few more cranks of the key she's up and running no problem. This also doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me worry. Also, from time to time the impala will act like someone has activated the unlock/lock buttons on the keyfob. It could be that i'm bumping the buttons as i get in/out of the car, but that seems unlikely.

    Does this sounds like the dreaded BCM or does GM have another way of taking my money?
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