Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

jodar96 · July 2005

I did replace the plugs in my 96 XLE V-6. The rear plugs were not that difficult to get to. You need combination of 2 or 3 extension bars, and a a swivel type universal joint between two of the bars to get to the plugs. You do not need to remove any brackets or manifold to get to them.

I got to two plugs from passenger side, and one plug from driver side.

Good Luck,
Joe

room · July 2005

I have never changed the oil myself on my Camry '03 and am having (embarrassingly) a difficult time locating the filter. ON my '01 Camry and all other cars in the past 30 years, I have easily found and changed Oil Filters.

Help!!

loucapri · July 2005

I notice the dealer in Bellevue and Kirkland will always "suggest" their customers to do this and that without wondering if is necessary (they only tell you that's base on what Toyota recommand).

On the other hand, when I took my 2 toyota to Everett, the manager will ask if I am having problem with my car or he will explain what is needed or what is 'suggested'.

Again, the cost of doing the same job is different too between dealers. I would not do any of the works unless I am having trouble and base on this forums, even when you have trouble, do all recommanded work, and still might not fix the problem.

210delray · July 2005

I still think, however, that it's a good idea to get the brake fluid changed periodically, even if Toyota doesn't specifically mention it. The European manufacturers do recommend it, as well as Honda. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which can lead to corrosion and poorer braking performance, especially in an emergency stop.

It's not an expensive job - certainly not $150!

210delray · July 2005

It's on the front passenger side of the engine, near the front, accessible only from below. It sits well above the base of the oil pan, and is pretty much hidden from view between the oil pan and the splash panel underneath the bumper.

nem0 · July 2005

Did you ever get this resolved? I just bought a 2004 LE with 26K miles on it and I tried to change the oil today......
Everything worked out fine until I tried to get the filter off....for an hour. Absolutely wouldn't budge. I was going to be late for work so I had to put the new, clean oil into the engine with the old filter. Very frustrating.
I checked out that toyota parts site ( www.toyotaspx.com ) but there's 8 different filter wrenches available. How do I find the one for my car?

210delray · July 2005

I just went through the same experience last week on my '04 LE 4-cylinder. The previous time I changed the oil (in March of this year), I made the mistake of using the cap style wrench to tighten the oil filter 3/4 turn, as directed. The recessed location of the filter makes it hard to get a good grip on the filter and tighten it by hand.

(In 30 years of changing my own oil, I have almost always hand tightened the filter and didn't use a wrench.)

Well, last week, the filter wouldn't budge with the cap style wrench (kept slipping over the flutes on the Purolator filter) and the filter basically had to be destroyed with a chain-type wrench and vise grips before it finally came off. No more wrench tightening for me!

So, I recommend that you take your car to a professional the next time to remove the filter, and make sure they only hand tighten the new one. But be sure to check for leaks before putting the car back on the ground.

Also, in the future, use Toyota OEM filters because they have better-defined flutes at the bottom, which will mate more solidly with the proper cap style wrench. I'd say to take a filter with you to your favorite local auto parts store to find the wrench that fits just right.

tpavey · July 2005

I have 70,000 miles on my camry and it seems to be losing power. Tough going uphill, (constantly downshifting) and very slow start up. I've read so many horror stories about tune ups ruining your car that I am leery about trying one.
Is there a way to tell if there is anything wrong with the car or should I just bite the bullet and tune up?

210delray · July 2005

Did you change your spark plugs at 60,000 miles? This is the only item needed for a tune up. Also, your air filter should have been replaced as well at the same time.

srigold · July 2005

Hi,
I wanted to get my Toyota Camry 60K miles servicing from dealer, can any body suggest be good place in Sacramento Area.
Is there a way to get any coupons for such kind of servicing?
Thank You,
Srigold

grant2 · August 2005

I have a 2000 Camry LE with 85,000 miles which had oil changes every 3k-4k miles. The car's been problem-free, but I feel guilty not keeping up with any preventitive maintenance. The owner's manual and mechanic make it seem more should be done than what I feel may be necessary. I believe I should change the engine coolant, automatic transmission fluid, and change spark plugs. What else do you recommend? In your opinion what things can you handle, what should be left to a mechanic?

lmacmil · August 2005

All those things are appropriate at your mileage. Definitely leave the trans flush to a pro. You can do the coolant change but only if you have some place to dispose of the old coolant. Don't just let it run out into the sewer. Spark plugs on a 4 cyl should be readily accessible, just don't overtorque the new ones.

loucapri · August 2005

Let your mechanic handles the work.
The coolant and transmission fluid are messy and you can't just dump the old coolant anywhere since it's dangerous for the environment.
I remembered I did a 60K services which included all the works you mentioned and it cost about $300 +tax (back in 2003) in TOYOTA dealer.
Now I still get flyer from the dealer and I think it's about $350.

What you might want to do is to check and replace your air filter (easy job), the battery and look for leak under the engine.

guevinj · August 2005

The maintenance schedule book that came with my 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. is a bit vague about some of the services that should be performed at 60,000 miles, i.e., those for "Special Operating Conditions". I do mostly city driving to work on weekdays (4 miles each way), with some highway driving on the weekends. I don't consider this to be "special operating conditions".

At 30,000 miles, the spark plugs were replaced with platinum plugs, and the transmission and radiator fluid were changed. I believe the spark plugs are good for 60,000 miles, so I don't feel I need to have them replaced again. Given the kind of driving I do, would I need to have the transmission and radiator fluid replaced again at this service? The dealer told me it would be more expensive if I started doing the services "a la carte", as opposed to using their 60,000 mile "package", which includes new spark plugs and radiator flush/fill. Am I on the right track?

Also, one of the items mentioned in the book is a valve inspection. In cold weather, I notice a tappet noise until my car is fully warmed up. I'd like to have this adjusted. Is it a labor-intensive process to adjust valves in a Camry?

Thanks for any advise!

210delray · August 2005

Toyota defines "special operating conditions" to include driving 5 miles or less in freezing temperatures. Other automakers say up to 10 miles regardless of weather.

Depending on your climate, I'd say you may qualify for the "special operating conditions" even under Toyota's tighter definition.

The spark plugs are good for 60K miles, so don't change them now. The radiator fluid (coolant) should be changed/flushed at 2 years or 30K miles, whichever comes first, if you are using the Toyota conventional red coolant (not the new Super Long Life coolant used on later models), so you are apparently overdue on a time basis.

It wouldn't hurt to change the transmission fluid now either, but just drain and refill. Don't let them talk you into a flush.

Also, the air filter should be replaced, the brakes and underbody checked, and the tires rotated, if you haven't had these already done recently.

Regarding valve clearance inspection, it shouldn't be labor intensive, but I'm not sure what is involved in actually adjusting the valve clearance if it's needed.

fireman1978 · September 2005

I just bought a used Camry with 34k on it. I've replaced the air filter but was wondering what else I needed to do. Do I replace the tranny fluid or flush it? Do I need to change the coolant fluid? How about the plugs/wires? Thanks!

lmacmil · September 2005

At only 34K miles, no need to do plugs, wires or transmission fluid. Coolant change is in order due to the time element (assuming it hasn't ever been changed.) See what your owner's manual recommends at 30K miles.

chevymalibu · September 2005

I posted this on the camry problems and solutions board too:

I do my own oil changes. I see that advanced auto and the others lists the fram 4967 as the filter. That filter was on the 92-96 and 97 - 01 models but the one on my 2005 is about an inch longer. Purolator #L14477 seems to be the exact replacement. Also, advance auto brand (made by fram), is AA4386 (the match to purolator's L14477) but not AA4967 which is the match to frams PH4967. I'm sure both fit the threads and work but why would there be two different sizes listed for the same car??? doesn't anyone cross reference or check this??? I measured the one on my car and it's identical to the purolator (which I bought 6 on sale). I don't want to buy it at the toyota place cause they are more bucks and someone makes it for them (not sure who but it's a name brand for sure). I already have to buy trans fluid at the dealer cause they scare you like honda if you use dexron III. Thanks in advance if anyone has changed theres and replies back with what oil filter they bought.

chevymalibu · September 2005

no need to reply to this question. someone answered it on the other camry board. Use the purolator L14477 and not the 4967 by fram or the L14476 by purolator (smaller filter). thanks

haefr · September 2005

"I already have to buy trans fluid at the dealer cause they scare you like honda if you use dexron III."

Believe it. Almost every OEM* specifies a proprietary ATF these days - I believe Toyota's is "T-IV". Many of these are synthetic blends. Good ol' fashioned Dexron III is not. The OEM proprietary blends also contain friction modifiers specific to the clutch facing material the manufacturer uses. So called "All Makes" universal ATFs, even those blended by name brand oil companies, are only their blender's best guess at compatibility. Use of these may disallow a transmission warranty claim depending on the car manufacturer. (For anyone running a non-OEM fluid, if your tranny does develop trouble, don't volunteer information that you're running a non-specified fluid. Silence is, indeed, golden.)

*I think Nissan still allows substitution of Dexron III. Honda's owner's manuals do too for top-up and full-fill in an emergency, but cautions in the case of full-fill to flush as soon as possible with their "Z-1" ATF by draining and refilling three or four times with several miles of driving in between draining and refilling each time. That gets the amount of remaining Dexron III down to a comfortably low single digit percentage.

210delray · September 2005

I fully agree on the trans fluid -- why take a chance on your transmission for the relatively small extra cost of the proprietary fluid?

chevymalibu · September 2005

you are so right. I asked the toyota guy and he said the T-IV ATF is some synthetic blend. It was $4 a quart. At least they just say drop the ATF and add back fresh. In the honda's, they say to drop and refill 3-4x to completely or nearly completely remove the old fluid. I got a qt of honda about a year ago and it was $4, last week it was almost $5. At 3 qts per drop and 4 drops that's 12 qts or 60 bucks. What sucks is you're tossing a lot of good fluid out to just dilute out the bad and "manually flush" the system. I read at valvoline that they have ATF's for some special cars that require the OEM fluid. Didn't see one for honda or toyota but like others on the car talk have said "it's insurance and you don't change it that often". I won't use anything other than the OEM's in that department but I'm going prestone extended life in the accord and toyota after the warranty is over. Same with DOT 3/4 brake fluid and PS fluid. I use castrol in both cars exclusively now. Might change once they get past 100K to other name brands. Thanks for your reply. Oh yeah, the sonata (hyundai) says dex III can be used for the trans.

haefr · September 2005

"I'm going prestone extended life in the accord and toyota after the warranty is over."

Funny you should mention that... I'm using Wal-Mart's "SuperTech" extended life antifreeze in my '03 Sonata V6. SuperTech is made for Wal-Mart by Prestone and is chemically identical to the Prestone branded product. (Much of the back-of-the-jug blather is word-for-word identical on both jugs, too.) $5.84/gal.

"Oh yeah, the sonata (hyundai) says dex III can be used for the trans."

Careful there - not sure what model year you're referring to, but Hyundai hasn't recommended Dexron III for over a decade in their automatics. Hyundai specificaly recommends SP-III for all automatics from model year 2000, now - even those originally calling for SP-II. Speaking of SP-II, it's an obsolete classification, now, but when it was current, Mitsubishi and Hyundai both allowed Chrysler ATF+3 as an acceptable substitute. Chrysler's since superceeded ATF+3 with ATF+4 - around 1997 or 1998, I believe. I've seen nothing in print that qualifies ATF+4 as equivalent to SP-III, but one of the members of the oil forum I hang around on posted that his Hyundai dealership's service manager told him that ATF+4 would not void his powertrain warranty. On its face, this has the ring of truth, but I'm always leery about second and third hand information... (especially on the internet) Besides, ATF+4 has typically been priced in the six-to-seven dollar/qt range - definitely pricier than SP-III. But, here's where the picture begins to clear: Chrysler just recently announced that the company'll license the ATF+4 formula for aftermarket blending and bottling, and sales through mass market retailers. Presumably that'll result in some serious discounting. Once that happens, and IF Hyundai issues a TSB that ATF+4 is an acceptable substitute for SP-III, I won't hesitate at all to flush and refill my Sonata with ATF+4. Sorry to get off topic on a Toyota discussion, but just maybe we're seeing the first cracks in stealership proprietary fluids extortion among all makes. (And, golly, wouldn't that just be too bad?)

davhealy · September 2005

does anyone know how and where to replace a cabin air filter. there are no instructions or mentioning for a cabin air filter.

haefr · September 2005

I don't know for certain, either, but my first guess would be in the heater core-A/C evaporator casing behind the dash. I would expect removing the glove bin would allow access - look for a "door" or removable panel that allows access to the filter.

210delray · September 2005

I answered this already in "problems and solutions." Access is behind the glove compartment, at least in 2002-06 Camry sedans. See your owner's manual.

coolguytc · September 2005

Hi pals:

I've recently bought a '01 Camry with 46 K miles on it. It was previously a lease vehicle and does not have any records of maintenance. I've driven about 1500 miles by now, 90 % interstate....and see no problems. What maintenance would you all advise?

1. Auto transmission flush & fill ?
2. Radiator flush?
anything else...please advise.

I would appreciate any answers.

haefr · September 2005

"I've driven about 1500 miles by now, 90 % interstate....and see no problems."

By the time you do experience problems, it's too late... Both services you listed (as pre-emptive maintenance) are excellent ideas. If you take your car to an independent shop (or do the work yourself), INSIST on Toyota's pink long-life antifreeze/coolant concentrate, and Toyota's "T-IV" ATF. I'd also consider having the brake system flushed and refilled with fresh fluid*. (You don't have to be brand-anal, here, but stick with a well known brand such as Wagner, Prestone, Castrol, etc., and be sure that its "DOT" specification [(Department of Transportation]) is listed. DOT 3 is adequate, but for just fifty or seventy-five cents more per pint, DOT 4 has an even higher boiling point for enhanced performance.)

*Brake fluid is a polyglycol alcohol and readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere over time. Since water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid, in severe conditions, when the accumulated moisture content boils to vapor, the brake pedal will go spongey on you - not at all a very reassuring experience, especially in hilly or mountanous terrain.

coolguytc · September 2005

Thank you Haefr !!!

lmacmil · September 2005

I'd look at the air cleaner also and replace if it looks dirty. Also look at the front brake pads to see how much is left. Lube all the hinges and the weather stripping. Check the pressure in the spare tire. See what the owner's manual recommends at 45K.

coolguytc · October 2005

Thanks Imac

ragdollgirl · October 2005

Okay, this is really silly -- but where in the world do I find the air filter on my 05 Camry XLE? The one under the hood, not the cabin air filter. I bought a K&N filter and went out to install it yesterday and I'll be darned if I can find the air filter. The owner's manual says nothing about it. It's in plain sight on my Grand Marquis. Thanks for the help.

jdeib · October 2005

That's not a silly question. On the 4cyl Camrys it is directly behind the Battery. The big black rectangular box. It is a little tricky to get the top off though. You need to loosen a bolt on the front and one in the rear of the box. Then, pry it open, but be careful because the left side interlocks and you need to gently pry it apart. You won't completely remove the lid because the lid is connected to the engine via a tube. But you can open it enough to access the filter.

But I have a question. Does your K&N require any modifications to the filter box? A lot of their filters do require a modifcation of the filter box or relocation of it which improves air flow and increases power, etc.

Good luck.

kjcho92 · October 2005

My 1997 Camry needs a coolant change, and I decided to do it on my own.
Wanted to save $40 and just wanted to try something on my own.
I've never changed anything on my own before.
I have the Hayne's manual, and it seems coolant change is not that hard to do.
I have two questions.

1. there is a splash panel that I have to remove to access the drain. The haynes manual has no picture or description of how to remove it.
Does anybody have a experience with this? How many screws do I need to remove?
Can I reach all the screws without lifting the car?

2. What do I do with the drained antifreeze? Does any gas station or repair shop take this for free? or Do I have to pay for it? How much?

ragdollgirl · October 2005

OK, I found the air filter box, and you're right, it is tricky to get the top up far enough to get the filter out/in. I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm thinking I may have to unhook the tube but I'm afraid it may not go back together properly and then I'll really be in a pickle. Since I haven't put the K&N in yet, I can't say if it needs modifications, although I don't think it's supposed to need any. The directions do give tips on fitting it properly in the box, so I hope I can get the top up far enough to play with it, if needed. I'll let you know how I make out.

haefr · October 2005

The splash panel is usually a plastic panel under the radiator. The number of screws will depend on particular body design, but it's not daunting to see how many are involved. Once the panel is off, you shouldn't have any trouble locating the drain cock. On most Asian cars it's a plastic threaded plug with an obvious finger tab. It may be pointed straight down, or toward the rear. You might need a pair of plyers to loosen it, but do NOT use anything other than snug finger-tight when replacing it. Virtually all current Japanese radiators use plastic top and bottom shells. If you over-torque the drain plug when re-installing it, you can strip the threads on the plug (minor problem that requires a new plug) and/or the bottom shell into which it's threaded (major problem that requires a new radiator). When you remove the plug, keep an eye out for a sealing o-ring. Sometimes the #@&%ed things seperate as the plug comes free and roll merrily away. (If you lose it, you can usually find the right size replacement at any home center's plumbing department - just take the plug along to verify a snug fit.) You should be able to get to it and the shield without using ramps or jacking the car up (leastways, I've never needed to on any of the cars I've changed the coolant out of).

Drain the old coolant into a large pan - something that'll hold five or six quarts. Do NOT pour old coolant onto the street or into storm drains. (The stuff's very toxic and cats and dogs will drink it because of its pleasantly sweet odor and taste. Since coolant is brightly colored, kids'll get into it, too. 3 oz. of coolant concentrate is lethal for an adult human male, so you can imagine what a couple of teaspoons full of dilute coolant will do to a small animal or child. The stuff is a neurotoxin and destroys kidneys.) Do not pour it into a septic tank system, either. Some communities will allow flushing coolant through the sewer system (this is NOT the same as storm drains) since glycols are biodegradable. Check with your local sewer department if you're on a sewer system. If they give the OK, just pour the contents into a toilet (it won't overflow since the siphon trap will automatically drain excess as it's poured in. Once you've poured out the pan's contents, one flush will send what's left in the bowl on its way. If your local sewege treatment plant won't allow disposal that way, you have no option but to pour the old coolant into empty containers and turn it in to a collection center. There shouldn't be any fee since you pre-pay a disposal fee as part of the new coolant's purchase price. I believe by law the seller has to accept the old fluid back, but check with the dealer or store from which you purchase the new coolant. Toyotas with all aluminum engines are best serviced with genuine Toyota antifreeze/coolant. Be prepared - it's usually very pricey unless the dealer is running a sale. Genuine Toyota long life antifreeze/coolant concentrate is dyed pinkish-red. Avoid conventional antifreeze concentrates laced with silicates. Those are OK for cast iron engines, but may cause problems with all-aluminum cooling systems. Use distilled water, not hose water, to dilute to 50/50 working concentration. If you really want to do the job right, refill with distilled water, idle the engine 'till HOT (the radiator fans will have come on TWICE) repeatedly until the drained fluid is water-white clear, then pour in a gallon of antifreeze concentrate. This is an afternoon killer, but you'll have removed just about every last vestige of future corrosion causing mineral content. Buy one of the Prestone antifreeze concentration hydrometer gauges at any auto parts store to check and adjust as needed to obtain the final recommended 50/50 concnetration. If you need to clean stuck crud out of the transluscent overflow bottle, remove it, pour a couple of inches of water and a 200-count pack of air rifle BBs in, and swish the combined contents around to loosen the junk. That little trick'll get the overflow bottle back to like-new condition. (Don't forget to rinse it and catch or dispose of the BBs.)

MOST IMPORTANTLY!!! When you remove the radiator cap, if you see sludgy scum floating on top or visible scale deposits in the radiator core channels, seal 'er back up and just drive the car to a shop to have the cooling system completely flushed professionally. You waited way too long and you got way more problems than shade-tree mechanic-ing can deal with.

210delray · October 2005

I had a 1997 Camry 4-cylinder. I used to change the coolant myself. You do not have to remove the splash shield at all. There is a small cut-out in the splash shield around the drain for the radiator, on the left (driver's side) of the car. If you have the V6 engine, there shouldn't be any difference with the radiator setup.

haefr said, If you really want to do the job right, refill with distilled water, idle the engine 'till HOT (the radiator fans will have come on TWICE) repeatedly until the drained fluid is water-white clear, then pour in a gallon of antifreeze concentrate.

I agree -- to a point. It's risky to let the engine get that hot and then drain the hot water and remaining coolant. You can easily be burned seriously. I'd recommend just warming up the engine long enough so that the upper radiator hose becomes warm - this means the thermostat has opened and the water/coolant is circulating through the radiator and engine. KEEP THE RADIATOR CAP OFF THE WHOLE TIME you are doing this. This keeps the water pressure from building up. Then shut off the engine and drain the radiator. The water will still be hot, so be careful.

210delray · October 2005

My advice, which you may not want to hear, is to return the K&N filter. I think they are overhyped. It can be tricky getting the air box back together properly. You don't need to undo the tube at all. But if you don't get it back right, then you'll allow unfiltered air to get into your engine. I'd recommend just putting it all back together now, unless someone can help you do it correctly.

At least the current generation (2002-06) Camry is better in this regard than the last generation (1997-2001).

haefr · October 2005

"I'd recommend just warming up the engine long enough so that the upper radiator hose becomes warm - this means the thermostat has opened and the water/coolant is circulating through the radiator and engine."

No it hasn't and no it isn't. While the coolant in a "warm" hose may be uncomfortably warm but for the insulating effect of the rubber hose, it's by no means up to minimum temp to open the thermostat. (Thermostats on modern cars don't even begin to open until 180 degrees F. and that's HOTTER than the maximum setting of a residential hotwater heater. They're not fully opened until coolant temperature reaches over 200 degrees F. -- that's even HOTTER, yet.) The ONLY way the thermostat can be verified as having opened and is remaining open is when the radiator fan(s) have activated TWICE. (Some auto manufacturers' shop manuals advise waiting until the fan(s) come on a third time...) The first time is a "false alarm" due to a partial opening that closes as soon as the charge of uncirculated, coolant in the radiator moves through the engine and briefly closes the thermostat again. In the meantime, hot coolant has moved into the radiator so that the second time the fans come on, the thermostat will have opened and is remaining open, even if only minimally. The bottom tank of the radiator, however, is always the coolest point (relatively) since that's the egress point of cooled coolant back to the engine. Caution is always the order of the day when working with the cooling system, but a brief splash of coolant from the bottom of the tank from an engine only idling and then shut down will not scald. (though it'll get your attention...) Use of a denim/leather work glove to open the radiator petcock will elliminate even that possibility. The use of safety goggles to prevent an eye splash is a good idea, too.

210delray · October 2005

I'm not going to get into an argument with you, but a first-timer does need to be especially cautious, and not just when opening the drain, but particularly when removing the radiator cap from a hot engine. Or do you agree with my advice about leaving the cap off while warming the engine? (Some of the water will bubble out with the cap off.)

With a fully warmed-up engine, if the cap is left on, you have the very real risk of scalding fluid blowing out of the radiator when you open the cap, unless you wait a long time for the engine to cool. Having gloves on or even goggles isn't going to protect the rest of your face/neck.

haefr · October 2005

"Or do you agree with my advice about leaving the cap off while warming the engine? (Some of the water will bubble out with the cap off.)"

Are you aware that radiators are intentionally designed with a safety pressure-vent position midway through the cap's rotation? This position is reached well before the point of actual removal, so it allows safely venting pressure while the cap is still securely held to its radiator mount (some hot liquid will burble out, too, but it's directed downward toward the radiator). The use of a workglove to rotate the cap to the vent position, as I mentioned, would eliminate a scalding splash. Since you interpreted my attempt at explanation as mere infantile arguing, rest assured it won't happen again.

210delray · October 2005

Yes I am aware of the halfway point of the radiator cap, but I still think a first-timer should leave the cap off entirely, especially if the engine is going to be fully warmed up. That halfway point is not all that obvious. So it's safest in my opinion to leave the cap off altogether.

By the use of the word "argue," I simply meant I didn't want to start any disagreement with you; I just thought the first-timer should be aware of the very real risk of a severe burn. Thanks for your understanding at keeping things civil here.

royalcoachman · October 2005

2005 Camry 4cyl. Service Required lite came on. What can this mean?
Thank You
Ron M

210delray · October 2005

Do you mean "Maintenance required?" It comes on at 5000, 10,000, 15,000 miles, etc. as a reminder to change your oil and filter.

Oil already changed? Your owner's manual tells you how to reset the light.

bwong06 · December 2005

Alright i have a small minor problem. When i changed my oil about a thousand miles ago my mechanic recommended me in changing my air filter. the problem is i will have the 60,000 mile maitaince in about 8000 miles. It has been about 20,000 miles since i changed the air filter, which is way overdue for a air filter change, so should i wait or change it myself.

Also when do i change my timing belt. I've heard 65000 and 90,000. Also i've heard that i should also change the water pump at the same time.

typesix · December 2005

Take out air filter and hold it up to a light bulb, if the light comes thru clearly, the filter is still good. Check owner's manual under severe service conditions for timing belt change interval, some are 60k and some are 90 k or more.Yes, it's good ideal to change water pump, especially if it's driven by the timing belt, cheaper than having to change the timing belt again if the water pump goes.

margie3 · January 2006

what is the life span of a water pump. i took my car into dealer for check-up w/ 60k, and they told me i had to change my water pump. thoughts?

lpw1881 · January 2006

its anywhere from 75k to 90k miles that the T-belt should be replaced depending on the driving. and as far as the water pump... keep your coolant system clean and it will last longer, replace it now and you dont have to worry about it for another 90k to 120k, under normal wear. (not accounting for pump failure)

loucapri · January 2006

i had the T-belt replaced at 100K miles and I consider I drive my car under normal condition.
I also do my oil change every 5K and so far everything works fine to me
My view is if a Korean car can have 100K mile maintaince free, my toyota should have the same or even better quality. Sometime the deal just want to make money from you by "suggesting" we do this and that. Hey, if somethings going to break, they will break and I just wait until that time to fix it.

haefr · January 2006

Generally, I agree with your cautious approach towards taking every little take-yer-moneyship "suggestion" with a grain of salt. But, keep in mind that when some things break, they end up taking something else equally or more expensive with them that could've been avoided. In other cases, a suggestion to take action may be in relation to something safety-related - brakes, steering, exhaust leak, etc. Only a moron would blithely ignore a safety-related warning. I may not have the take-yer-money-ship do safety-related service, but I'll sure as heck get a second opinion from an expert. Don't confuse maintenance intervals with warranties. Korean cars are not maintenance-free over 100,000 miles. (leastways, my '03 Sonata owner's manual makes no such claim)

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