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Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • wolfborowolfboro Member Posts: 6
    I want to change the engine oil of my wife's 2007 Toyota Camry CE (4 cyl.) for the first time . I'd like to hear from DIY guys on the following issues;

    1-Is anybody using motocraft 5W20 synt. blend oil in Toyota engines (yes, I know it is Ford brand)? Our owner's manual says 5w20 oil . Is there any known reason that I should not be using this particular oil ?

    2- Which floor jacking location and "jack stand location" work best ?

    3-What type of oil filter wrench seems to work better in recessed location ?

    Thanks for your inputs in advance.

    Ken
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Just did this maintenance this weekend.

    1. Can't speak to the oil, I bought Valvoline dino since I'll change the oil every 3-4k miles or so to meet warranty.
    2. A ramp works best, just drive the right front wheel up on a ramp, or both fronts if you have 2 ramps.
    3. Buy yourself a oil filter cupwrench, 65mm 14 flutes, it's about 4 bucks at a autozone or pepboys. It fits right over the end of the filter, you put a standard 3/8" extension in the end, and twist the filter right off. These things come in all sizes to fit all the different filters, but that is the right size for the Toyota filter (4 cyl engine).
    4. The oil plug is 14mm.

    This is maybe a 15 min job, drive the car up, swap the filter, drain the oil, refill (4.5 qts).
  • metalibrarianmetalibrarian Member Posts: 29
    Have a 2004 Camry LE with I4. Wonderful car. Manual clearly states 5W30 oil should be used, as does oil filler cap on top of engine. Yet several local Toyota dealers use only 10W30. So also many independents. That way they don't have to keep multiple barrels in the shop. Called several dealers before I finally found two who use 5W30.

    Is the difference so minor as to be insignificant? Will there be a difference in mpg? Can the slightly heavier oil actually be better for the engine in the hot southwest climate?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The oil is 30 weight when warm, so both of those oils are equivalent. The 5W would be thinner in the winter when the engine is cold. If you don't get any freezing temperatures and/or the car is garaged, I personally wouldn't think twice about using 10w over 5w.

    Here in NC, the winters are mild and my vehicles are all garaged where even in my detached garage without the heat turned on it is no less than 50 degrees inside the garage in the winter, so I actually use 10w30 in one of my cars over the 5w30 that is called for. That's because another vehicle I have runs 10w30 so thats just one less type of oil I store.

    The worst problem you'd have is harder starting (slower turning over) if it was cold.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    If you live in the hot southwest, 10W-30 will do no harm over the long term, I would think, but personally I'd rather go with what the manufacturer recommends. After all, their engineers who designed the car know more than any dealer.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,146
    The glovebox owners manual may give more than one oil being acceptable. In my GM car (not a Toyota so this doesn't apply to yours) the manual says 5-30 if temperature will not go above 60 F. during the oil's life. If it's not going below zero then 10-30 is preferred. A default statement on the fill cap says 10-30 and it's in the manual. This implies the 30W in 5-30W is different than the 30W properties in 10-30W. That would match with my knowledge of oils.

    Check the owner's manual for those multiple statements depending on temperature.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Good point; in the case of my 2004-05 Camrys, I believe the manual states 5W-30 for all temperatures, but that 10W-30 is okay for higher temps, as long as the you switch back to 5W-30 at the next oil change.
  • fredvhfredvh Member Posts: 857
    The owner's manual states to use 5W30 but one can use 10W30 for one time and then to go back and use 5W30. What are the ramifications in regards to warranty, etc. if the owner uses 10W30 all of the time?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    My 2002 Camry with 53K miles has never had the rear brakes replaced yet! In fact the front ones were just done last fall. The front had rotors which my tire guy cut and put new pads on. The brakes have been silent and fine since even though the Toyota dealer wanted to replace the rotors irregardless of whether the could be cut or not.

    Now the rear dillema. My tire guy will do a pad job on the rear brakes for about $100. I've been with guy for years and wouldn't have even questioned it except I was at the dealer with my wife's new RAV and asked the service tech how long my brakes might actually go. Anyway after chatting he said they get $250 to do the rear brakes but that includes changing cylinders...EVEN IF NOT LEAKING. He says they likely will leak if he does not change them. I thought this odd so I called another dealer. They said they did not change the cylinder if not leaking and have not seen that many that do leak over the years. Of course there brake job was about $219 w/out the cylinder swap out....very high.

    Finally, I believe the cylinders, if leaking are covered under my 7/75 platinum warranty! The original Toyota dude said to check and make sure but even if covered I would still pay to have them replaced today as he could not replace them under warranty they were NOT leaking....but he still thinks its wise to replace them. I asked WHY? He said if they leak and drip on the pads I'd have to pay for the pad job again even though the cylinders would be covered.

    This all sounds crazy but I want to be safe...if this even is a saftey issue. At the same time I spent more for the Toyota up front to get away from these expensive repairs...espicially when the part is not even broke!

    WHAT SHOULD I DO?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Most of the braking in todays cars is done by the front brakes, little by the rears. I've held cars for 10+ years and never had to replace the rears at all. You go by the amount of brake pad remaining, not by mileage or # of years. Since you just had the fronts done at 50K miles, it is probably unlikely that your rears would also be due.

    Is your mechanic telling you that they need replacing because they are worn down? or are you telling them you want the rears replaced, for some reason?

    Regarding replacing the cylinders....what happens with cylinders is that as the pad wears, the cylinder continually moves further and further out. If you don't change fluid periodically, you can get moisture and some crude that gets 'behind' the cylinder. This is not a problem as the cylinder continues to move outward, but when you do a brake pad replacement with now thicker pads...the cylinder has to be pressed back in. If there was crude in the bore, the cylinder now sticks a little. It presses outward when the brake is applied, but fails to float back when you take your foot off the brake. The result is that the pads then wear faster (and you tend to see a lot of black brake dust on the wheels). So to reduce labor and callbacks, it is very easy to replace the cylinders as a precaution while you have everything apart....they're cheap enough. This tends to happen more with front calipers, which go thru pads faster and have more heat to dissipate.

    If it was my car, unless the back pads were worn down...I'd leave everything alone, and just flush the brake fluid.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    I am not sure the rears are do, but last time they said they likely would need replacement by inspection time. Lets assume the pads are low. Do I just get the pad job or have the cylinders replaces too OR wait for the cylinders to leak at which point in time they are covered by my extended warranty?

    If I get the pads replaced and the cylinders start to leak, say in a week or moth...does it ruin the pads?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I doubt that you'll find the cylinders ever leaking, the normal failure would be where the cylinder starts to bind up inside the caliper housing. The normal failure is as I mentioned before. Some crude builds up in the brake fluid behind the cylinder. When pads are changed, the cylinder is pressed back into the caliper bore (to make room for the extra thickness brake pad) which the cylinder presses against. That crude binds up the cylinder, so that it doesn't move freely. When the brake pedal is pressed, the hydralic pressure is enough to move it out and apply the brakes, but the cylinder doesn't float back when foot taken off the pedal. As a result, the brake pad wears prematurely.

    "If" a cylinder leaked brake fluid on the pads, you'd want to replace them.

    You're over thinking this. These parts are all relatively inexpensive, if they ever fail, then replace them.

    If this were me, "if" (and only if) the pads were worn down would I replace them. I would not replace the rear cylinders, unless I could feel that they were binding when pressing the cylinder back into the caliper. (If these were the fronts which run hotter, I'd be looking for potential binding by the 3rd set of front pads). Bleed the brakes with fresh fluid, and you are good to go. I'd really doubt whether you needed to replace the rear pads at 50K miles though, given that you just replaced the fronts. 50K on the fronts tells me you are a not a hot-rodder or do fast hard stops....so I would think you have a long way to go on your rear pads.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    I replaced the front at about 50K..Maybe the rears will not need to be done. Anyway I am just getting the pads. Thanks!
  • toyotafreektoyotafreek Member Posts: 16
    I bought my Camry new in 2002. I drove it 65,000 miles and the only thing I ever did to it was change the oil. I traded it recently and got $8,500. I was very satisfied.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    May I ask what you traded for?
  • toyotafreektoyotafreek Member Posts: 16
    It's my wife's car. She wanted an all wheel drive and she liked the Hyundai Sante Fe.

    The number of crossovers here in Pittsburgh is phenomenal. It seems like there is a transformation from domestic to Asian manufacturers.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    How is it holding up? We waityed and got an 06 RAV but cam real close to getting the Hyndai....
  • ja5573ja5573 Member Posts: 14
    Hi, I have 05 camry with just about 30k miles on it and I am thinking about doing it at dealership. I asked on this forum and got feedbacks that I should itemize instead of getting what dealer offers and pay for it.

    Since then I've been reading the original manual and I still have some questions. First, should I get transmission and differential oil changed at 30k? And when is usual interval for brake pad change? Is there anything else that shold be replaced regularly in terms of brake(brake line maybe??)?

    Many thanks in advance.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Second, I had my 02 Camry's oil was changed at my tire guy while in for an inspection and tire rotation. I have dealt with them for years and years but this was the first time they changed the Camry's oil, I usually have the dealer do it because they have a shuttle service which is convenient. I noticed a smoggy smeel in the car for a few days. I thought it was the oil burning off. I drove less than 100 miles before stopping back this morning. They guy popped the hood and noticed the oil knob was very loose. He appeared very embarrased and said it must have vibrated loose. I think we both knew it was never tightened. Anyway, he re-checked the oil level, it was full. He wiped the surrounding areas and said everything should be fine. Sure enough the smell is gone. Could this have damaged my engine in any way though. So far its running normally.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    No, as long as little or no oil was lost (likely not as it the cap was still on, if loose). You should check the dipstick to make sure the oil is at or near the "full" mark.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    I checked and the owner. It is full. The cap was more than loose, you could lift it off. Its amazing the smoggy smell that came in. It seams normal now though. I'm surprised a check engine light did not come on. Thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    You're welcome! Good thing the cap was on, if barely. Otherwise you would have had oil sprayed all over your engine and on the hood insulation -- a fine mess and a fire hazard. You were smelling the hot oil vapors.

    Next time you have the oil changed, remember Ronald Reagan's words, "Trust, but verify." That is, check under the hood before you drive off for a tight cap and a full reading on the dipstick. It wouldn't hurt to check underneath the car where it was parked for any oil drips on the ground.
  • wolfborowolfboro Member Posts: 6
    I would like to hear from DIY guys on how to remove air filter housing cover for 2007 Camry 2.4 L 4 cyl. engine . I saw two bolts on driver side , and what appears to be a "hinged" side on the opposite end. What puzzles me most is that some "component" appeared to be in the way. It looks like a piece of black plastic cylindirical part (?). Do we need to remove anything in order to get to the air filter ? What is the correct procedure ?

    Your inputs are appreciated.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    You're basically right about the procedure -- two bolts (10 mm as I recall) on the outside and a kind of hinge on the inside. I have a 2004 and a 2005 -- these are similar but not identical to the 2007. Not sure what the cylindrical thing is -- probably can be moved out of the way?

    Here's the thing though, if you've never done this before, it can be a little tricky (and frustrating) to get the two halves of the housing back together again. And unless you live in a dusty area or drive on unpaved roads, you really don't need to change the filter until 30K miles (which I suppose is possible now that the car's been out over a year).
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    (continued)

    If the 2007 is similar enough to the 2004-05 like mine, then the cylindrical part is the air intake to the engine (I just looked). You don't have to disconnect this. It lifts up with the top half of the air filter housing, once the bolts are removed.
  • wolfborowolfboro Member Posts: 6
    During my two oil changes, I noticed a significant discrepancy between "oil capacity specified at owner's manual" and "dipstick min/max markings" . Our 2007 camry 2.4 L manual says oil capacity 4.5 qts. with filter . 4.5 quarts of oil is the exact amount I charge the engine with during oil changes . But the dipstick shows about one inch over the max. mark .
    When car was brand new the the engine oil level on the dip stick was about 1/2 inch above the max. mark .

    The dilemma is what do I do ? I prefer to follow the the oil specification rather than relying on a cheap dipstick which may very well be manufactured out of tolerance or uncalibrated . Depending on the responses from this forum members , I might even scribe new markings on the dipstick reflecting true level .
    I thought about any oil might have remained in the engine during oil change . But engine was down for several hours before oil change and I drained it well without hurry , plus I jacked it thru the frame underneath the passenger side which tilted the car towards the oil drain plug direction for better drainage.

    I would like to hear from the forum contributors on this subject .Do you experience the similar discrepancy and how are you dealing with it ?
    Thank you very much for your inputs .
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The service manual shows 4.3 qts for drain and refill without oil filter change, 4.5 qts for drain and refill with oil filter change, 5.3 qts for a dry engine fill.

    I put in 4.5 qts last change (I just went and verified the remaining amount in the quart), and it was right at the top dipstick line representing full. I had also changed the filter, so it is right on.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Something is off, and I think you ought to get it checked. I have an '04 and '05 with the same engine, and my experience is just like kiawah's. I don't think the dipstick would be that inaccurate.

    But then, I have access to a lift at work, so the car is level as the oil is drained.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Hmmm.....I wonder if the problem he had the car jacked at an angle. In my case I use a set of car ramps, which lifts both front wheels up about 6 inches, and hence it is level right to left.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    You could be right, which would mean it's possible that 4.5 quarts of old oil aren't being drained, and the crankcase is then being overfilled with new oil.
  • wolfborowolfboro Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your responses . It appears that you do not have the same problem I have. I guess ,before I change anything ,I need to verify couple of more things . At my next oil change , I will make a note of the dipstick level prior to draining and measure the drained oil carefully . One more thing I can do ,that is, to jack the car down completely flat to see if any more oil draining out . After these and charging 4.5 qts. of new oil (with new oil filter) ,I will recheck to see if the dipstick is still showing above the max mark(currently approx. 1").

    Your suggestions are always welcome.
  • ja5573ja5573 Member Posts: 14
    Hi, I own 05 Camry with 30K. Since about a week ago, the car starts to make strange squeaking sounds like those made by old furnitures when I apply and release the brake. Initially, I thought my brake pads worn out which is ok since I was going to replace it soon.

    What worries me is now, not only I think sounds comes when I hit the accelerator, somehow, some sounds seems to come from my door as well(I think it is upper part of my window).

    I have no idea how these sounds are generated and they don't seem to be metalic sounds. What should I do and is this something I can get checked out by dealership under warranty? My car is still under warranty.

    Many thanks in advance.

    Regards
    J
  • djlu99djlu99 Member Posts: 4
    Camry '05 LE - I just returned from the 50k inspection at the dealer. They say that the Accessory Drive Belt tensioner is leaking and recommend replacing it for $400...would appreciate any comments as to what is this accessory drive belt tensioner and is this something we normally would expect to replace at 50000 miles?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    djlu99,

    I just sent you an email with a picture of tensioner. You have an email account w/carspace, just go up to the top where it says "Mailbox".
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Your post makes it hard to determine what is causing the noise. Because the car is still under warranty, by all means take it to the dealer. I'd recommend driving it with the service technician in the car with you so you can point out the noise directly to him or her.
  • rubbermanrubberman Member Posts: 14
    After much effort, I replaced the front struts in my '01 Camry. I started on the back ones and discovered that the top mounting nuts aren't easily accessible like the front. The instructions inside the Monroe struts say you have to remeove the rear seat and "tray". I'm assuming the tray is the rear deck. I'm very apprehensive about interior dismantling because the fasteners aren't visible. Does anyone have any information on replacement of the rear struts and the difficulty involved? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The Toyota manual says to remove the rear side seatback. Picture shows the strut bolts accessible.

    Appears easy from the manual....to remove the rear side seatback....appears to be one bolt for each side seatback.
  • hebleheble Member Posts: 1
    I need to know how to turn off my "Maint Reqd" light on my '05 Toyota Camry.
    I get this light eveytime I need an oil change.
    The last time I didn't take it to the dealer but to a local mechanic.
    The dealer had said he turns it off after the oil change.
    My mechanic didn't know how to do it.

    Thanks.

    Heble
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    There is a procedure written up in the owners manual in the glove compartment. For the 07 it deals with holding in the trip A odometer reset for a period of time while you turn on the ignition key to different positions. I suspect it is similar for the 05, but it's written up in the manual that you can dog ear the page so it's easily accessible whenever oil changes are done.
  • rubbermanrubberman Member Posts: 14
    Kiawah,
    Thanks for the info. I looked and there appears to be a bolt at the bottom of the cushion that is accessed from the inside. It's pretty well hidden between the seat and seatback cushion.
  • djlu99djlu99 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks - is it common that it would leak (at a cost of $400)?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I have no idea, I've never replaced it on a Camry. I've replaced a number of tensioners on my other vehicles over the years, all of the others were spring loaded.

    I think what I'd suggest is to call an auto parts store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) and find out how much the part itself cost. I'd intuitively think the part would be in the 50 dollar ballpark, but that's only a guess on my part. You could also call the Toyota parts desk and find out the cost there as well.

    I'm fairly handy so wouldn't think twice about tackling this myself. If you do it yourself, I'd replace the belt while I was at it.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Completed the first oil change on the '07 CE Camry - piece of cake! The oil filter was on pretty tight, but nothing too bad. I used my oil filter cap wrench, 6 inch extension, and socket wrench.

    I love the ease of maintenance on Toyotas - yet another example of their superior designs compared to the other makes.

    I also used my newly-built ramps, making the job really easy.

    Any questions, let me know.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi all:
    I just made a service appointment at the selling dealer for an oil and filter change to be done on June 25th at 8:00 am! At the present time my Camry has 8,200 miles, and at the time of the oil & filter service it will have between 9,200 and 10,000 miles, depending on my driving habits! The vehicle will be 6 months old at that point in time, and it will have had four,(4), oil & filter changes. YES, I believe in having clean oil in my engine at all times, because I depend on my vehicle every day to earn my living.

    The vehicle is running VERY STRONG, and I DO NOT HAVE any of the problems listed on this site, but I do believe that these problems do exist, and I do believe that the transmission issue, (Flare / Slippage), is related to the operation of the torque converter and the software that controls that unit. If the "slippage" was in the transmission itself, the clutches and / or bands that hold the units would be burned very quickly. (The vehicle would not move forward!) This issue is related to the "drive-by-wire / torque converter operation / software interface process" at various road speed and traffic conditions. My driving does not allow me to use "cruise control," so I drive my vehicle by using the accelerator. This in itself could eliminate the symptoms of the "flare"! I also use the "manual shift feature" of the unit in city traffic for better control and "engine braking"! This also could eliminate the symptoms. (I am making the shift decisions not the computer!)

    ON THE SUBJECT OF OIL AND FILTER CHANGES:
    Motor oil does more than just lubricate an engine. It also forms a film on bearing surfaces that separates moving parts so that they do not touch each other, and this reduces friction and wear. (Less friction = better fuel mileage). The oil film also acts like a shock absorber to cushion reciprocating and rotating parts. Oil also serves as a coolant for critical engine parts such as the crankshaft bearings, and the valve-train components. Oil also helps to prevent rust and corrosion inside the engine, and helps keep surfaces clean by dissolving and carrying away dirt and varnish deposits.
    Dirty oil simple wears out an engine very quickly! Oil is often referred to as the "lifeblood" of an automobile engine. If oil is the engine's lifeblood, than the oil filter is the "liver of the engine." Like the "liver" in the human body, the oil filter takes in dirty oil and removes the particulates and crud. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis gives the engine a fresh transfusion for a longer / efficient life!
    Choosing a "quality oil and filter" is just as important as frequent oil and filter changes. Fact, ---- all oil filters are NOT created equal. A poor quality aftermarket oil filter may temporarily save you a dollar or two, but down the road, it can cost you thousands of dollars in engine damage if the unit fails. If the aftermarket unit fails, you can kiss your warranty good-by!!!!!!!!!!! A poorly constructed internal by-pass valve inside a cheap aftermarket filter can open unnecessarily, and cause the oil to simply go around the filter. You now have no filter in the lubricating system, and you have dirty oil circulating in the system! This is engine failure looking for a place to happen!
    I always use a high grade / name brand motor oil and filter. I make it a point to return to the dealer to have this service performed. Now all of my service records are in one place for future reference. Should an oil filter fail and destroy the engine, it is their filter and their tech that performed the service. My warranty and extended warranty are "ok"! It now becomes the dealer's problem together with the manufacturer, (in this case Toyota), to make things right! Should I have an issue "on-the-road," the servicing dealer at that location can get my service records from the selling dealer. Life becomes stupid / simple! ------ Best regards. -------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I agree with you. I only use Toyota filters and Castrol GTX 5-20, changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles.
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Member Posts: 34
    Need Your Advice

    I face the same situation, my car is a 03 camry(4 cylinder) with 30K. Is it time to change the coolant? I read some messages which said the pink coolant in Toyota last more than 4yr and 30K, is that true? If I change the coolant at Walmart is it okay to mix the normal coolant with the pink coolant? About the transamission fluid, do we have to change under normal driving condition? I look at the manual it says change it only under special operation conditions, does that mean we will never have to change it? Does change coolant equals to flush the radiator? I don't mind to spend some money to get piece of mind, but I am also don't want to spend the money that is not necessary.

    Thank You Very Much
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Member Posts: 34
    Hi

    After reading your message I also want to change the coolant by myself. I have a 03 camry(4 cylinder), I try to locate the drain plug. Is it on the inner bottom side of the radiator with a white plastic tip? It seems I can turn it just by fingers. I think I don't need to remove the cover underneath the engine because there is a small cutout allow the coolant to drain. I just want to make sure I won't unplug the wrong valve. Is there anywhere can find a picture of the drain plug so I can compare with the one I saw. Is it the only place to purchase the pink coolant from a toyota dealer?

    Thank you very much for your help
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    check your carspace mailbox, I sent you instructions.

    You access thru the 'mailbox' button, upper right corner of screen.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    My original Mich. MXV4's on my V6 (2003)are coming to the end of their life at 48,500. I am thinking of either Exalto Touring or the new MXV4's S8. The tire people at Costco said some of their customers complained of noise with the Exalto's. I would like a quiet tire with decent performance. Any advice?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might consider putting instructions like this in a guide. That way the procedure would be available to everyone without you having to email it to people individually. People would be able to find it using various search engines as well. :)
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