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Toyota Camry Timing Belt/Chain Questions

135

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This should explain the differences/advantages to you:

    http://www.automedia.com/Iridium_Spark_Plugs/pht20010101ds/1

    The short version is that iridium plugs need less voltage to fire and last longer.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    All '93 Camrys will have timing belts. Do you know if yours has EVER been changed? If not, then you are way beyond the mileage limit (I'd assume 60K miles for your year). It's true that the belt will go without warning -- I've had it happen to me on my former '80 Volvo. The other belts have nothing to do with timing belt.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    You can check the belt yourself on the 93 Camry.

    There are five small bolts that hold the plastic cover on the front top of your engine.
    If you have small hands and a short 10mm socket remove it . I use a 1/4 inch drive socket set. You can bur a socket at a pawn shop for 25 cents a good rachet at Sears for $15 . Dont buy a useless socket set if your only doing small work on your own car. A Toyota can be repaired with just a couple more size sockets and a couple wrenches.

    Get a 8mm and a 12mm to get your set started. These are standad size bolts for Toyota's
  • gearhead8gearhead8 Member Posts: 12
    I know for sure!!!
    The Camry 2.4 lite 4 cylinder engines going back to at least 2002 have timing chains. No timing chain maintenance required.
    Keep clean oil in the crankcase, top tier fuel in the gas tank, fresh antifreeze in the cooling system and keep an eye open for leaks and this engine will run for at least 200,000 miles.
    gearhead4
  • bernskibernski Member Posts: 1
    I have a flyer from my dealer estimating the cost of a timing belt replacement at $239.99. Isn't that really high?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    The 2002-current Camry does not have a timing belt, it has a maintenance free chain. The only belt on your 08 is a serpentine belt that powers the alternator, AS compressor, PS pump, etc. It should NOT be $240.00, probably around $90.00 installed. Only needs replacing about 75k miles or so. Easy to check visually.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Bernski didn't specify whether they have an I4 (chain), or a V6 (cogged belt).

    It's not clear whether the 240 is referencing a serpentine belt replacement (which should be cheaper than the 240), or a V6 with a timing belt replacement (which would be substantially more than the 240).
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    You're right, could be a V6, but I thought the new V6 was a chain too?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    The new V6 (as of 2007 models) does have a chain also, like the 4-cylinder since 2002.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You are correct, both the I4 and V6 have chains for the valve timing......looked it up in the 2007 Toyota service manual.

    That can't possibly be a $240 job to replace the timing chain. Bet bernski was referring to the accessory belt.
  • caazcaaz Member Posts: 209
    Let me make it easy for you, lol. 2002-2009 4 cyl. all have timing chains.
    2007-2009 v6 engines have timing chains.
    2006and older v6's have timing belts and should be replaced about every 90,000 miles or a bit less.
    $240.00 is about right for a timing belt., it is Not high.
    Last week i purchased a serpentine belt, for my 03 camry, directly from my toyota dealer, .cost.... $26.00 Labor 30 mins.
    I hope this helps, i made it nice and simple.

    Later
    Caaz
  • dntlssdntlss Member Posts: 5
    hello there, my sister has a toyota camry(1997) and saturday she was going somewhere and the car just died while on the road so she pulled over and i came to check it out, well i pulled the starter out and checked it,i know it has nothing to do with the car dying,its just something i like to check, well it worked fine but when i put it back in it will not turn the engine, in other words the engine is locked, i got underneath and tried to turn the crank at least a little and it will not budge, im guessing timing belt failure, am i correct in this assumption? i dont see what could make an engine lock up like that, car has oil, it does not smoke but shes not into preventive maintenance at all so ballpark is the car never had the belt replaced at the recommended interval so besides bent valves what else am i gonna have to fix?, thank you for any suggestions
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    to the contrary. A broken timing belt should make the engine turn over easier than normal, so I do not see this as your problem if indeed the engine is seized.

    Did you check the oil level?

    Did this happen in a rainstorm or when driving through a deep puddle?

    Have you tried turning the engine over with the starter motor out?
  • dntlssdntlss Member Posts: 5
    hey there, thank you for your reply, yes it has oil in it and she just said she was driving it and the engine suddenly quit so she coasted to the next stop, i will be looking at this car tomorrow and i will definately try to turn it with out the starter, something to mention is that when i pulled the starter out i had my sister turn the key and the starter performed flawlesly, well i put the starter back in and had her try it this time and nothing happened, let me point that you can actually see the starter move a hair while is cycling and it looks like it wants to jump out of that hole cause is under such strain, i cannot understand what could make an engine lock like that, the day when it happen it was sunny and it was on a mild hill so i believe there was no puddles but i will ask her,the reason i stated the timing belt was because i figure that if the belt brakes and the valves fall and the piston comes up and hits one real good and bends it and that valve cannot return to its original positon it could stop the travel of the piston,hence the locking feeling, could this be possible or not? again thank you for your input , let me know what else you think it might be
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the belt brakes the valves are no longer connected to the pistons through the camshaft, so the bottom crankshaft should spin freely even if the valves were jammed tight or the camshaft was seized.

    You may need to get a socket and cheater bar on the front crankshaft pulley to see if this engine is actually seized.

    Aside from oil starvation, hydro-lock or a jammed timing chain tensioner (which you don't have) I can't think right off of any other reason for an engine to seize while running down the road.

    I suppose it could have eaten a valve but even that usually wouldn't cause seizure.

    I'm just not sure you have in fact an engine seizure issue here. More investigation in that area!

    I
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take the plugs out, when you are trying to turn the engine over with a cheater bar...that will make it easier to turn. Might also want to just take the accessory belt off as well, that would eliminate any frozen accessory from impacting your ability to turn the engine.

    You also don't need to take the starter out, it wouldn't be engaged with the flywheel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I was thinking it might be getting hung up when he tries to start it and it jams in the flywheel. Just groping for ideas here.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Wow tore right into it, starter removed, and then installed again.

    Seems you could do the next step and remove plugs like the last post suggest.The symptoms like starter does not spin sounds like your on the right track Again a broken belt will let it turn over easily unless its so twisted around something at the crankshaft.You should be able to turn it backwards too, easily without cheater bar if you follow the above advice

    . The plastic cover on top of the engine covering the camshaft pulley you could pryed it back to see if belt is still on the cam. Remove three of the five or six 10mm cover bolts and pry it back.
  • dntlssdntlss Member Posts: 5
    thanks everybody so much for all the points, i will investigate every single one tomorrow and post what i found out so far, i want to point out that i did take one of the belts off(the airconditioned one ) but there is a smaller one behind it so ill take that one out tomorrow as well, i also wanted to add that my sister boyfriend was with me and i had him get under with a socket and a ratchet and thats when we tried to move the crank, actually he even got his foot on the ratchet for leverage but no dice, didnt move an inch, hes not too bright at times so maybe he was hitting something with the ratchet, so tomorrow ill get under it, the spark plug removal is also a good idea(thank you) i forgot about that and i thought of it later, this was all last saturday so tomorrow i will work on it in earnest,i did do also what the gentleman said about removing part of the timing belt cover and i did see it and push it lightly to see if it had a lot of slack but the test was inconclusive cause it was hard to see, again i will take more of it off and check, again thanks everybody!!!!
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    If the timing belt is visible on the top it is good. If its missing it broke.

    Sound like its still connected. You are the grand prize winner of whats behind door number three.
  • dntlssdntlss Member Posts: 5
    lol, thank you for your mesagge, i assume door number three is the oil pan? i did take the valve cover off, thats a very interesting way they attached that cover with those big nuts, well now with all the research i have done i believe what happened was the oil pump failed and the engine seized, strange is she didnt mention any noise or nothing of that nature and the oil looks fine but we put a socket on the crankshaft and a cheater pipe,no movement what soever,ive never seen anything like it, i work on mustangs and things like that ,so looks like a new car is in the horizon for her,again thanks for your reply
  • sanctify4sanctify4 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the information. I went to have my oil changed last week and I was told that my 2002 v6 cam. needed a new timing belt because it "looked" as though the cover has never been removed therefore they assumed that I needed a new timing belt. However I seem to remember being told that the timing belt had just been replaced when I bought the car(78k). Is there a way that I can check the timing belt.

    Also i was told that I had an engine valve gasket that was leaking and needed to be fixed. The car now has 120k miles on it. Has anyone had this issue before.

    Is anyone aware any mechanics (non-dealer) in the DC metro area that can do this at a reasonable price....

    Let me know...Thanks
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    I couldn't be the one to break the news what was behind behind door number three, now you know.

    These engines are in abundants at junkyards, well maybe wait a few more years. I see alot of 93's and earlier models. The model year 2000s Kia's and Hyunda's are starting to show up.
  • dntlssdntlss Member Posts: 5
    hey there, well i worked on the car this weekend and yeah its toast,ill sumarize it in a simple story, a proto ratched,a 19 mm socket and a cheater pipe against a toyota camry driveshaft pulley, camry 1 proto ratchet o, im hoping proto has a warranty like craftsman cause the ratchet has gone to heaven,thank you for your help and input, have a good one
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Darn thats too bad about the engine and rachet.

    This was my second experience with a locked engine in last six months and these were the first in my long career.

    Well see it in the junkyard.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I guess you really have no evidence other than the seller's word that the timing belt was changed at 78K miles. No receipts right? There's no way to tell by looking whether a belt was changed recently or not -- usually when it's time to replace them, the old belt LOOKS fine.

    So if I were you, I'd bite the bullet and have the belt changed in the near future. A leaking valve cover gasket is not that big a deal, unless a lot of oil is being lost. It can wait for a while.

    As for good independent mechanics, it's been too long since I lived in the DC area, so I'd suggest asking friends, relatives, and co-workers for recommendations. Also, does that magazine called "Checkbook" still exist there? It was sort of like Consumer Reports for the DC area and rated service providers like auto mechanics, home remodelers, etc.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh well, did we fail to tell you that you NEVER use a cheater bar with a ratchet, only a breaker bar + socket? Sorry. :cry:
  • rqurqu Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Camry 4cyl Auto, 64K milage, does it need to change timing belt? the dealer told me this car doesn't need change coz it is Timing chain, is that true?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    True, it has a timing chain. Maybe just replace the serpentine belt (probably $100).
  • balakrishnapbalakrishnap Member Posts: 5
    Hello,

    I need to do 90k service for my camry, most of the dealers are suggesting that I should change the timing belt and water pump along with the service. The price they are quoting are in the range of 1000k - 1300k. Please advise asap

    Can I do the timing belt , 90k service at mechanic or dealer which one is better. Please note i dont know any mechanic.

    Also if you know any good dealer/mechanic who does this for reasoable rates , please let me know. I am located in bellevue, wa.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Timing belt change on 98 Camry, if you do it yourself, I can help . What basic tools, knowledge do you have, and engine?
  • balakrishnapbalakrishnap Member Posts: 5
    I dont have any knowledge about automobiles and no tool at all. I am prepared to go to a dealer/mechanic , only concern is are they reasoble ? or charging extra for t things which i dont need to change.

    thanks in advance
  • sanderson76sanderson76 Member Posts: 8
    I have my 99 4-cylinder in the shop; they say it is an interference engine that seems to have some bent valves, in doing some research I think its a non interference engine. Anyway, I believe the timing belt broke: my daughter drove the car to school in the morning with no problem, when she tried to start it after school it turned over (faster than normal and with a higher pitch) I tried about 3 times to start it, with out success. Talked to a friend and he said it sounds like a timing belt, had car towed to shop and told them the same story. Could me trying to start the engine cause the valves to bend? They showed me that the crank shaft pulley would only rotate 3/4 of the way around and not all the way around (that what they say tells them there is probably a valve bent). Does all this sound right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No it doesn't sound right. Get the car out of there and take it to someplace that knows what they are doing.

    You probably did break the belt, that part sounds right, but it's not an interference engine and with a broken timing belt the valves are not going to move when they spin the engine anyway.

    Timing Belt Chart
  • sanderson76sanderson76 Member Posts: 8
    Should the water pump be changed when you change the timing belt? Is there any other labor that needs to be done, other than change the pump?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    changing the water pump would depend on the car's mileage I think but I'd probably do it if you plan to keep the car for a long time.
  • sanderson76sanderson76 Member Posts: 8
    Should the water pump be changed when you change the timing belt? Is there any other labor that needs to be done, other than change the pump?
  • sanderson76sanderson76 Member Posts: 8
    Should the cam shaft pulley rotate all the way around?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would think so. Is the belt broken or isn't it? Does anyone know?
  • sanderson76sanderson76 Member Posts: 8
    They said it was broke and I saw a belt on the ground that was broken but I did not inspect it.
  • sanderson76sanderson76 Member Posts: 8
    So, a 4 cylinder 99 Camry is a non interference engine, should anything be damage when the timing belt breaks? Why would the cam shaft not rotate all the way around? Does this mean something is bent in the engine?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I can't say. It all sounds rather odd to me. Unless something fell down into the piston.
  • dogluverdogluver Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone,
    I have a 99 toyota camry and just got the timing belt and serpentine belt replaced. I drove the car off the lot and almost immediately onto the highway and noticed a medium-high pitched whining sound that sounded almost electronic. It was not there before. When I got off the highway, it went away. I got home and stopped and then restarted the car again, and a pretty intense whining noise could be heard as I started the car. Again, it was not there before. I didn't drive it anymore, so I'm not sure if the noise will be there if not on the highway, but I should know tomorrow. Also, it seem as if it's taking a little longer for the car to start up, although that could be my imagination. I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out with this one. Thanks in advance for any insight anyone is able to offer.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Is it an electrical whine from the alternator? If so, might not have a good electrical connection or ground.
  • dogluverdogluver Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick reply! I really wouldn't know what part the noises are coming from- I know very little about cars. There seem to be 2 different noises, come to think of it. THe "electronic" like whining noise I heard on the highway was was not very loud or distinct, but still audible, without having the radio or heat on. (But you can could stil barely hear it) The second noise was different, however, in that it was much louder and happened when I started up the car again when I got home. After reading some of the threads on this site, I'm wondering if the timing belt is just on too tight, but then why the two different sounds, seemingly coming from 2 different areas of the car? ANd why would the noise on the highway have gone away when I got off? Irina.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd take it back to the repair shop right away. Might be belt interference or a noisy idler pulley---something they are responsible for.
  • dogluverdogluver Member Posts: 3
    Hi Mr. Shiftright,
    Thanks so much for writing back. Sorry I took a shortcut and wrote you through your e-mail, ( this question was my first post on any chat site, so I don't know if that was the proper etiquette, but to be honest with you, I was so upset and frusterated, I didn't know what else to do ). I took the car back to the mechanic today and he turned it on, and said he did not hear much of a whining. I agreed with him that it was not as loud and distinct as when I just start it up after not driving it for a while ( I drove it for 35 minutes to get to his place), but it is still there. Another problem is that his shop is on a busy street, and it deffinately is harder to hear. Anyway, he told me to leave it and he will check it tomorrow am. He also said he thinks the problem is the serpentine belt he also put in and "Deffinatly NOT the timing belt." I asked why , he said that there is absolutely nothing that can be wrong with the timing belt. I asked him if it could be on too tight ( I had learned that yesterday by reading the site and was quite pleased with my question) and he said that was impossible because there are " numbers" that tell you how tight to make it. It really doesn't sound right to me, after reading some other member's writings. Another thing I asked him, and something I think is pretty crucial, is why the car is taking longer to start-it is turning over much longer than before the belt was put in. His only response was that he didn't know and he'll talk to me tomorrow. I'm hoping to get some good news tomorrow, and hope that the mechanic, who I think is a pretty honest guy ( although I haven't ben going to him for very long) will be upfront with me. I'll write an update tomorrow and hopefully it will be good news. Anyway, thanks again for your ideas- I will have to google "belt interference" and "noisy idler pulley" to find out what that is so I at least would be able to ask him about it if he tells me again nothing is wrong. Have a great night and a good weekend, Irina.
    PS Sorry again if this is considered too long of a post, like I said, I'm really just learning the ropes of this "chat stuff" and am just a long whinded talker in real life.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it sounds like checking further into the serpentine belt could be a good idea.
  • cobealcobeal Member Posts: 1
    I came here hoping to see something useful re: a procedure I am about to do.
    HOWEVER I can not help but notice that several posts claim timing chains never wear out. Have they managed to create metal that does not wear? I know that the time interval is removed with metal but what about actual use?

    Many years ago I was in the business of auto repair. In those days we used to figure that every GM vehicle would blow a timing chain between 90,000 and 120,000 miles without fail.
    There were experiments with timing gears made of nylon or some plastic (which creates a time interval for replacement) or harder metals that some claimed caused noise.

    Any which way you looked at it, something always wore out and required replacement.

    The timing belt was an interesting innovation in that it introduced a predictability factor and replacement was factored into the service schedule instead of requiring the opinion of experience to advise on avoiding the use of a vehicle without warning.

    Those old engines used to overrun the gears on shut down. It was very common for a worn chain and or gears to suddenly allow the chain to slip instead of it breaking. A person might go to the grocery store and return to a vehicle that either would not start or one that was firing just as the valves were opening.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I wouldn't say they never wear out, but they will go WELL over 150k miles as long as you've been good with regular oil changes. I know I've read many posts of 200k+ miles with the original timing belt. In fact, I cannot remember reading about any breaking or slipping on Toyotas. But, yes, they will eventually wear out.
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