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Comments
1) Do adjusting the steering tilting lever when the ignition is on caused this?
2) The battery was jump-started but the engine just don't turn on, I put the cable +ve to+ve, -ve To -ve but no earthing connection,
3) when change to new battery, still can't start, no panel ilumnition light, no power window, the brake can be released, can't move the gearshift from P, but car light is there, cd can be on, though i didn't wait to hear the audio,
4) mechanic checks all the fuses, ok, but suspect the 2 certical long fuses (blue color) under the hood the main culprit.
My Camry has another problem. The "engine check light" is on. I used a reader and got the P0446 code "EVAP system, vent control malfunction." I looked around the hoses for cracks. They all seem ok. A manual said it is a bad VSV for vapor pressure sensor. I replaced the old one near the charcoal canister in the back with a new one. The light won't go away. Then I took out the VSV for EVAP near the air filter in the front and tested it. I cannot blow air through it. When I connected a 12-volt battery to it, it clicked and I can blow air. So I assumed it is good. I disconnected the electrical connector to the VSV for EVAP and measured the DC voltage across its 2 pins, when the key was turned to "ignition on" and when the car was started. In both cases, there was no voltage measured. Does this mean it is an electrical problem? What can I test next to locate the problem?
Thanks for the help.
Ken
What else could this be. Also not that they should be related but as of a couple weeks ago my trunk release inside doesn't work either.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I just bought a car that needs a little bit of work. I did not realize the guy had taken out a fuse and replaced it with a poor-quality, home-made anti-theft switch with no fuse at all! Need to replace fuse, but cannot determine what fuse to put in. Does anyone have a link to a schematic to identify what fuse to put in?
Location Is On The Bottom Of Power Steering On The Left
It seems that after a battery is jumped with cables and then driven a distance, it has enough charge back in it to produce a suitable readout at a battery place. :confuse:
Just a thought that you may want to try this before spending your $'s on troubleshooting it at a dealership, etc. Ultimately it was determined we had a battery with a bad cell in it (fairly unusual I guess) but got it replaced under warranty and only paid small pro-rated amount towards a new battery. Our battery was 2 1/2 yrs old and we live in the cold Midwest. GOOD LUCK.
I cant figure out where to troubleshoot that problem. I looked at all the fuses under the hood and they appear fine. Could it be a relay problem?
It sounds like there's a loose connection at the battery or at fuse box. It could also be your car has a bad alternator that is not charging properly. Check those three.
I am wondering if the fault can be on power outlet side. Is there a way to verify that?
Thanks
I just bought this car, and it had the old cluster in the trunk with the circuit paper on the back showing 2 burnt circuits, the replaced cluster wasn't working, when I removed the replaced one to insert another used one, I found the same 2 cicuits were burnt. The Speedo, Tach, Fuel Gauge don't work, lights are fine, engine temp gauge works. The plug that goes into the back of cluster where the circuits are burned is blue, plugs into the right side(left if you take it out and looking at the back). Wires are as follows...Black, Green, empty, empty, Orange, Yellow/Redstripe, Yellow, space, Brown, Green/Black stripe, Purple/Yellow stripe, White/Black stripe, Green/Yellow stripe, empty. The burnt circuits are on the Brown, and Green/Black wires.
What are these wires to, and how do I test them to see why they are shorting out my instruments. I don't want to install the next cluster panel until I know it won't burn it out.
Thanks, I have pics, but not sure how,or if I can post them, can e mail if thats allowed
Joe