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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    When you say they quit working, do you mean that the outside lights light up but don't flash??? or that the outside lights don't light up by either the hazard or turn signal switch?

    There are two fuses as part of this circuitry, the 7.5A Turn, and the 10 A Flasher. Both of those feed the hazard warning switch. After the hazard warning switch, power is fed to the Flasher. The flasher then feeds the turn signal switch.

    So problem could be the fuses, the hazard switch, or the flasher.

    The flasher is down under the dash, on the left. It's NOT in the fuse box under the dash by your left knee.
  • salsaqueensalsaqueen Member Posts: 9
    They don't light up or flash. The hazard doesn't work either. I presume it's the same lights, right?

    So how how I get to the flasher on the left? Should I remove the panel under there?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check your mail, sent you a picture. Go to mailbox tab, upper right corner of this forum. Your email address is salsaqueen@carspace.com

    Good luck.
  • salsaqueensalsaqueen Member Posts: 9
    Great! Thanks! I'll try it! So, just to make sure...to get to it...I should remove the panel under the steering column? Or how do I get to this area?

    Let you know how it goes.

    Thx!!
  • salsaqueensalsaqueen Member Posts: 9
    Did it! WooHoo!!
    Thanks a million for all your help!!! :)
  • allysonelizaallysoneliza Member Posts: 4
    I have been searching for an answer to a perplexing car problem(s) with my '93 Camry.

    1. My headlights started flickering on and off, eventually stopped working. When he left turn signal is used they turn on - a right signal turns them on. Either way they don't stay on for long.

    2. The brights work but only if I hold the lever down; leaving them on they work the same as the regular lights.

    3. My entire car shut down while I was driving; I couldn't turn it back on or shift into neutral so it could be pushed into a local gas station. Then it turned back on and I'm not sure why.

    Please help me figure out what's wrong - I don't know if my fuses are overheating or relays or something. I'd like to figure it out so I can fix it at home - anything helps. Thanks!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Excellent....congrats...nice job!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Is this a USA vehicle, or Canadian vehicle? Electrically they are different in this headlight area.

    Do I understand your high beam situation correctly. When you hit the 'flash' function the high beams will come on, but normally they won't stay in the on position.

    When you turn your headlights on and get them working....do you have taillights at the same time that the headlights are on?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You haven't responded and I'll be out for a number of days, so let me give you some additional info.

    If I assume that you are a USA vehicle and not Canada, and assume that your taillights do work when your lights are on, and assume that you are able to flash your high beams, then your problem would be either your light control switch is bad, or the integration relay.

    There are additional tests that should be performed with a meter to definitively prove before you tear into your steering wheel.
  • allysonelizaallysoneliza Member Posts: 4
    I apologize - yes, I believe that is true. The taillights work but the headlights don't.

    Please let me know some of the tests/how to run them when you get a chance. Thank you!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
  • allysonelizaallysoneliza Member Posts: 4
    What is the best test to run on these?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The link I posted is a document, which has the test to run on each pin setting with the expected results. These can be done with a digital volt/ohm meter.

    If all of this is greek to you and/or you haven't worked on vehicles before, you should consider taking it to a repair shop. You have a good idea of what the problem is, and can get their estimates up front as to what they would charge to do the repair.
  • allysonelizaallysoneliza Member Posts: 4
    Thanks! Do you mind emailing the pictures to me, they are rather small when I try to download them from the page.

    allysonelizabeth@gmail.com
  • momof42007momof42007 Member Posts: 3
    for some strange reason my park lights stopped working...both at the same time. Is there a fuse that might of caused this issue and if so where is the located because i dont have a fuse diagram in my car..thanks :cry:
  • blu28blu28 Member Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problem as salsaqueen on exactly the same car. Unfortunately, I can't figure out where the flasher is based on the three jpegs you posted. Do you have a larger version available?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Open the 'flasher 1', and zoom in with your browser if you need to the middle of the picture. It is marked where the flasher is in the junction box.

    Find the junction box in your car that is shaped like the one in the picture, positioned the way it is, in the area where that junction box is. Once you have located the junction box, then look at your junction box closely where the arrow is pointing to the flasher.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    when you say 'both', do you mean all 'four' of the corners don't have any parking lights?

    Is your license plate light out, as well?
  • momof42007momof42007 Member Posts: 3
    sorry....my front park lights are the issue i dont have any at all....but the light above the back plate works fine...i just figured it was a fuse and dont know which one to change out thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If you are saying that your symptoms are:
    - the front parking lights DON'T work
    - the rear parking lights and the license plate DOES work.....

    then your problem has to be either your front bulbs are burnt out or the wiring to the bulb has a problem. They are all fed from the same circuit, and there is no fuse that feeds the front parking lights separately.

    Pull the front bulbs, check for a bad filament and or connection in the socket, use a ohmmeter if you need to verify that the bulb is good or bad, and a voltmeter if necessary to check that you have voltage in the socket.
  • momof42007momof42007 Member Posts: 3
    thank you! we will check that in the morning after it stops snowing...thanks again
  • teddawteddaw Member Posts: 6
    1999 Camry V6
    Symptoms:
    Both reverse lights do not light.
    Both tail running lights do not light.
    License plate illumination does not light.

    The dash "tail light out" indicator lamp is OFF when the headlight switch is off, and ON when the switch is ON(both parking and headlight on) and also ON when the auto headlight sensor turns on the headlights.

    I have checked the following fuses which were good:
    TAIL (Instrument Panel JB#1)
    GAUGE (Instrument Panel JB#1)

    I have visually inspected the harnessing in the trunk (where the high stress area would be) as well as the harnessing to the light failure sensor and didn't see anything that got my attention.

    Additionally, the first time I noticed any of this was when the check engine light came on with code P1780 (Park/Neutral Position Switch Malfunction ) and was accompanied by the reverse indicator on the dash being illuminated at the same time as the drive indicator light (or park etc). The check engine light went off on its own and has not come back on since, and the transmission dash indicators are working correctly again as well.

    Last but not least, this car has an addon remote start and keyless entry. Dont know if thats playing a role.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Do your brake lights work, or not?
  • teddawteddaw Member Posts: 6
    The brake lights work fine. Just pulled two of the relays... trying to check them now! Pulled and checked two relays on the back of the Instrument Panel J/B (the one on the passenger side as well as the middle relay-- Part #s VFM-11F41-ZO5) and with 12V on the coils the contacts closed.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It appears you've got a couple different problems, which is making me wonder what the common thread might be.

    The simplest of the circuits is the backup lights, and I think we should start there to figure this out. The power to this circuit comes from the ignition switch, thru the 10A gauge fuse (which I believe is good because that gauge fuse also feeds the indicator light that is telling you that your tail lights are out), thru the backup switch, and then to the 2 backup lights to ground. Can you get a digital voltmeter, and meter the voltage on the 10A gauge fuse, to verify that it is sitting at 13-14 volts. If that is good as I suspect it is, then measure the voltage on the backup switch. If you have voltage on both legs of that switch, then go to the backup lights and verify that you have voltage on power feed to the backup lights.

    I had initially suspected the taillight relay for the plate lights (which still might be involved as another problem), but let's figure out the simpler backup light circuit first.

    If you are able to check relays, then check the tail relay. There are three relays in a row on the otherside of the junction block where the tail fuse is, which I think you've found. If you are looking at the block staring at the relay side, the right hand one is the tailrelay. It's by a small yellow connector, and the tailrelay has a different connector plug immediately above it. This tailrelay isn't related to the backup light problem, I only offer it now since you are already checking relays.
  • teddawteddaw Member Posts: 6
    Kiawah.. thanks so much for your time!

    All three relays have now been checked (on a bench) and seem to be functioning properly. I also checked Gauge with the ignition on and there was battery voltage on both sides of the fuse. Can you give me a bit more info as to where the backup switch is? Whats the easiest way to access it?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Don't know whether you have an automatic or manual transmission, but the switch is on the transmission. WIth the hood open, stand in the middle of the car facing the engine, hold out your right hand, and drop it down toward the transmission. That's the area the switch is in, which detects when the transmission is in Reverse.
  • teddawteddaw Member Posts: 6
    I have the automatic.. I have found the park/neutral position switch... and what I think is the vehicle speed sensor. But no joy on the other switch. Its getting dark and my lighting is awful. I think I'll knock off and try some more tomorrow!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That's the switch, it will be closed when the gearshift is in Reverse. Check the voltage on the pins. One pin should be hot (14V) when the ignition is ON, the other side should be hot only when transmission is also in reverse (while the ignition is in ON position). Shorting the switch pins should give voltage to the rear lights, and they should light up.
  • rocker8rocker8 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks in advance for your great forum. My wifes Camry has an electrical problem. While driving, the dash lights for alternator, lights, and brake came on. The battery went dead that night. I tried charging it and noticed the charger on full charge, and never letting up as the battery was charging. I noticed while troubleshooting that if I pulled the under hood "charge" fuse, the warning lights went out when the engine was running.Seems like a direct short somewhere. Could it be the voltage regulator ? Also noticed if I disconnect the battery cables, the battery charges normally. Any ideas ? Thanks !
  • jefarljefarl Member Posts: 2
    My daytime running lights do not shut off when I shut off the engine and remain in the car for a while. The sometimes they don't shut off even after I open the drivers door and leave the car.

    anyone else have this problem or has Honda indicated what is wrong. Yesterday my battery drained because the lights never shut off after i left the car.

    Jef
    2000 Camry
  • ralphwiggum1ralphwiggum1 Member Posts: 31
    i changed the battery on my 95 camry v-6, but i can't get the car to start. i think the factory alarm is cutting off the ignition and i don't know how to get around the alarm/ignition kill. i don't have the alarm fob anymore, so i don't know what to do. any suggestions would really be appreciated. thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Rocker8,
    Sounds like something is draining the battery down, could be a number of things.

    I'd start first with the most likely, the alternator may have a blown diode. Assuming you can charge up your battery by disconnecting the cables as mentioned, drive on over to an autoparts chain, and have them do a battery and alternator test. They can do it on the car, which tests whether your battery is good, but also will test your alternator output under a load. This will tell you whether all of your diodes are good, and it is putting out the rated current. This is usually a free service they'll do. I'm suspecting that they'll find a bad alternator.

    Come on back and let us know the results. If that didn't fix it, we'll take the next steps....but it's good to start with a known good basic power status...a good battery and alternator.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    jefarl,

    You should post your year, make, model of vehicle. Your bug will be a vehicle specific bug depending upon electrical schematics. Without having Honda schematics myself, if it was mine.... I'd be checking the DRL relays.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Ralph,

    Check to make sure your 30Amp AM2 fuse is good.

    That fuse is located in the engine compartment, in junction block #2, on the inside of the front left fender/wheel well area.
  • totalsale4totalsale4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Camry that I bought for my daughter and everything on the car works except for the windshield washer delivery system. I thought of checking the fuses first but cannot identify where to look or what fuse may activate the unit. I do not hear any noise from the washer motor....but it just may not be getting power to operate. Any help would be greatly apprecuiate.
    Totalsale4
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You could test this with a simple 12V test light. The washer motor is probably attached to the bottom of the windshield fluid plastic tank. Remove the connector, have someone work the wash switch, and see if the light lights in any of the holes you plug it into. Naturally the wire side of the light must be grounded to metal or the negative pole of the battery. If you get a light, then the motor is no good. If you don't get a light, go to the fuse panel and look for a burned fuse. They should be marked. If all the fuses are good, one would have to suspect the wash switch.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    There is a 20A Wiper fuse, which feeds your wiper/washer switch (w/combo wiper relay), which then feeds the wiper motor and washer motor. If either of those work, then you know your fuse is fine............and the problem is either the switch or the motor.

    As Shifty suggests, a digital voltmeter or test light at the washer motor will determine whether it is getting power but the motor isn't turning (washer motor bad).....or there is no power there (defective switch).
  • teddawteddaw Member Posts: 6
    Kiawah... sorry for the delay. Spring break called!
    OK so I have verified that when the car is in reverse the pin on the junction box below the steering column goes from 0V to 13V properly. I have also checked some of the pins for various taillights and those too turn on when the headlights are turned on. So i think I have an actual problem with the harnessing. I cant get continuity thru the harnessing on the trunk lid to ground or any of the other wires. Do you happen to know where I could get a wiring diagram as the main harness that runs from the JB on the left side of the passenger seat has 20+ wires in it. Im trying to ring out each wire but there are some duplicate colors. -Teddaw
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Not something that would be easy to get to you.

    There is a harness that runs along the floor channel on the left hand side (drivers left side), up above the left rear wheel, and then a 12 pin connector up there. Check back there to see if can meter voltages out there.

    This is really strange, don't normally see these types of problems. Was this car in an accident or something? damaging either the left side or left rear? Has somebody done some cutting or modifications....for instance rear amp or speakers or ???
  • teddawteddaw Member Posts: 6
    I have exposed most of the harnessing the runs along the floor channel and all the up the rear seat. The car has an aftermarket remote start and keyless entry installed up near the drivers side junction box.. Lots of poor quality splices up there and what looks like 1 or 2 in the harness in the floor channel, but no splices on the wires for the reverse lights. The car has not been wrecked. I'll look deeper for the 12 pin you speak of... I hope its just that!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    As mentioned before, you have a couple problems as the reverse lights are a different circuit than your other lights. I'd track down the reverse light problem first, as that is the easiest/simplest to track down.
  • greeneinkgreeneink Member Posts: 4
    my kids car got broken into and they stole his stereo out of the dash. He had to jumpstart it and crossed the pos/neg cables. It fried his battery and will not turn over now. I bought a new battery, I replaced the EFI relay and fuse, and engine main relay with parts from a junkyard. It still will not turn over. I checked all the fuses I can find. Under hood, left knee panel. I really believe it's electrical, but don't know what to do next, please help. Could the alarm have something to do with it? It doesn't appear that the steering column was messed with.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    When you say it "won't turn over"......do you mean that the starter doesn't turn, engage the engine, and turn it?

    Or do you mean the starter works, but the engine doesn't start running?

    If it is the first, you can check the voltage on the starter primary to see if you have 13 volts, and then check the starter motor voltage.

    Did you replace the parts you mentioned because they were bad (as determined by metering), or were you just replacing parts in the hope that they had something to do with the problem?

    Do you know how to read electrical schematics?
  • greeneinkgreeneink Member Posts: 4
    When I turn the key nothing happens at all. No accessory lights or anything. My guess is the ignition switch, but is it being caused by the car alarm? I replaced the parts hoping it would help. I know very little about electricity (know little about mechanics) I might be able to stumble thru a schematic, but no I do not know how. Not sure how to test relays. I get no power windows or power to any other items.
    If I get it narrowed down I can find someone to help me check things I can't figure out. Thanks for trying to help me.
    another thing that I noticed is that you can't step on brake and put the car in gear. You need to push the override button
  • matman1matman1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, You all seem like a but of smart fellers,
    I'm new and thought i might give your grace and knowlage a try.

    There is a similar post in here, but not quite the same.

    My wife's car had stalled a few times on acceleration, but would restart, finnaly wouldn't restart (after about a week of stalls when the engine warmed up) Had to get it towed. just shut off on her... took it to a great machanic, they told me to replace the distributer (and one other thing that i can't remember now). so i bought a used distributer and it ran like a top. lately it has been lagging real hard on take off, and the idol can't make up its mind where it wants to be. between 700-1100rpm well, she had just pulled into our driveway and it shut off. didn't restart. when i got home, it restarted. AHHH! not sure what to do. Hopefully you all can help. I think there was some other part that worked with the distributer...

    Matt
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Greenie,

    We need to start with the basic power. It will be helpful if you have a voltmeter to troubleshoot this problem (digital over analog is preferrable), you could probably pick it up at a radio shack or autoparts chain. Alternatively, you could probably also do this with a cheap 12v test light indicator obtainable for maybe 5-10 at an autoparts chain. The only reason I would get the voltmeter, is that when all is said and done you may have a relay with some fried relay points on it, which would show a high resistance. A test light wouldn't necessarily pick that problem up, but a digital voltmeter would show a slightly lower voltage. We may find that a test light is all you need, but if you don't have either right now and have to buy one, get a digital voltmeter.

    Coming off of the battery, there is a fusible link box with 3 fusible links in it. If you stand at the front middle of the car in front of the radiator, and put your hand out at 2oclock pointing at the driver side front strut tower, and then lower your hand down you'd be approximately pointing at it. You need to check that they aren't blown, and that you have 13 volts on both sides of each fuselink.
    1.) 40Amp Main, this also powers the headlight relays, so if your headlights are working at full brightness, this fuselink is probably good.
    2.) 80Amp Alternator, this is connected to the alternator but also the tail lights and stop lights. Check to see if your stop lights are working as an indicator as to whether the fuselink is good.
    3.) 30Amp AM2, which is what supplies power to the ignition switch.

    Let me know what you find, and we'll go from there.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Did you replace the 'other thing' that the mechanic indicated as well, or just the distriubtor?

    The problem you indicate could have many things causing the problem, and you really don't want to be just throwing parts at it in the hope that something fixes it. Could be fuel and fuel distribution, could be electrical, could be compression related. However, there are some basic maintenance items, that if they are the end of their normal published useful life, should be checked and replaced.

    How old (and miles) are on the plugs, and did you replace the spark plug wires when you did the distributor? If you pull the 4 plugs now and look at them, do they indicate proper combustion or is one different looking than the others? (keep track of which plug comes from which cylinder).

    Did this start after a specific fuel fill up? Could be bad gas.

    Are you burning any oil or water (black, blue, or white) out of the exhaust? Are you loosing any radiator coolant? or oil?

    You may want to consider taking it back to that 'really good mechanic', and let him fix it.
  • greeneinkgreeneink Member Posts: 4
    kiawah,
    40amp main tested at 12.2 volts
    80amp alt. no tailights or brake lights
    30amp am2 tested 0.0 the fuse looked good.
    Once again, thanks for taking the time to help the mechanically challenged.
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