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Comments
There are two fuses as part of this circuitry, the 7.5A Turn, and the 10 A Flasher. Both of those feed the hazard warning switch. After the hazard warning switch, power is fed to the Flasher. The flasher then feeds the turn signal switch.
So problem could be the fuses, the hazard switch, or the flasher.
The flasher is down under the dash, on the left. It's NOT in the fuse box under the dash by your left knee.
So how how I get to the flasher on the left? Should I remove the panel under there?
Good luck.
Let you know how it goes.
Thx!!
Flasher 2
Flasher 3
Thanks a million for all your help!!!
1. My headlights started flickering on and off, eventually stopped working. When he left turn signal is used they turn on - a right signal turns them on. Either way they don't stay on for long.
2. The brights work but only if I hold the lever down; leaving them on they work the same as the regular lights.
3. My entire car shut down while I was driving; I couldn't turn it back on or shift into neutral so it could be pushed into a local gas station. Then it turned back on and I'm not sure why.
Please help me figure out what's wrong - I don't know if my fuses are overheating or relays or something. I'd like to figure it out so I can fix it at home - anything helps. Thanks!!
Do I understand your high beam situation correctly. When you hit the 'flash' function the high beams will come on, but normally they won't stay in the on position.
When you turn your headlights on and get them working....do you have taillights at the same time that the headlights are on?
If I assume that you are a USA vehicle and not Canada, and assume that your taillights do work when your lights are on, and assume that you are able to flash your high beams, then your problem would be either your light control switch is bad, or the integration relay.
There are additional tests that should be performed with a meter to definitively prove before you tear into your steering wheel.
Please let me know some of the tests/how to run them when you get a chance. Thank you!
If all of this is greek to you and/or you haven't worked on vehicles before, you should consider taking it to a repair shop. You have a good idea of what the problem is, and can get their estimates up front as to what they would charge to do the repair.
allysonelizabeth@gmail.com
Find the junction box in your car that is shaped like the one in the picture, positioned the way it is, in the area where that junction box is. Once you have located the junction box, then look at your junction box closely where the arrow is pointing to the flasher.
Is your license plate light out, as well?
- the front parking lights DON'T work
- the rear parking lights and the license plate DOES work.....
then your problem has to be either your front bulbs are burnt out or the wiring to the bulb has a problem. They are all fed from the same circuit, and there is no fuse that feeds the front parking lights separately.
Pull the front bulbs, check for a bad filament and or connection in the socket, use a ohmmeter if you need to verify that the bulb is good or bad, and a voltmeter if necessary to check that you have voltage in the socket.
Symptoms:
Both reverse lights do not light.
Both tail running lights do not light.
License plate illumination does not light.
The dash "tail light out" indicator lamp is OFF when the headlight switch is off, and ON when the switch is ON(both parking and headlight on) and also ON when the auto headlight sensor turns on the headlights.
I have checked the following fuses which were good:
TAIL (Instrument Panel JB#1)
GAUGE (Instrument Panel JB#1)
I have visually inspected the harnessing in the trunk (where the high stress area would be) as well as the harnessing to the light failure sensor and didn't see anything that got my attention.
Additionally, the first time I noticed any of this was when the check engine light came on with code P1780 (Park/Neutral Position Switch Malfunction ) and was accompanied by the reverse indicator on the dash being illuminated at the same time as the drive indicator light (or park etc). The check engine light went off on its own and has not come back on since, and the transmission dash indicators are working correctly again as well.
Last but not least, this car has an addon remote start and keyless entry. Dont know if thats playing a role.
The simplest of the circuits is the backup lights, and I think we should start there to figure this out. The power to this circuit comes from the ignition switch, thru the 10A gauge fuse (which I believe is good because that gauge fuse also feeds the indicator light that is telling you that your tail lights are out), thru the backup switch, and then to the 2 backup lights to ground. Can you get a digital voltmeter, and meter the voltage on the 10A gauge fuse, to verify that it is sitting at 13-14 volts. If that is good as I suspect it is, then measure the voltage on the backup switch. If you have voltage on both legs of that switch, then go to the backup lights and verify that you have voltage on power feed to the backup lights.
I had initially suspected the taillight relay for the plate lights (which still might be involved as another problem), but let's figure out the simpler backup light circuit first.
If you are able to check relays, then check the tail relay. There are three relays in a row on the otherside of the junction block where the tail fuse is, which I think you've found. If you are looking at the block staring at the relay side, the right hand one is the tailrelay. It's by a small yellow connector, and the tailrelay has a different connector plug immediately above it. This tailrelay isn't related to the backup light problem, I only offer it now since you are already checking relays.
All three relays have now been checked (on a bench) and seem to be functioning properly. I also checked Gauge with the ignition on and there was battery voltage on both sides of the fuse. Can you give me a bit more info as to where the backup switch is? Whats the easiest way to access it?
anyone else have this problem or has Honda indicated what is wrong. Yesterday my battery drained because the lights never shut off after i left the car.
Jef
2000 Camry
Sounds like something is draining the battery down, could be a number of things.
I'd start first with the most likely, the alternator may have a blown diode. Assuming you can charge up your battery by disconnecting the cables as mentioned, drive on over to an autoparts chain, and have them do a battery and alternator test. They can do it on the car, which tests whether your battery is good, but also will test your alternator output under a load. This will tell you whether all of your diodes are good, and it is putting out the rated current. This is usually a free service they'll do. I'm suspecting that they'll find a bad alternator.
Come on back and let us know the results. If that didn't fix it, we'll take the next steps....but it's good to start with a known good basic power status...a good battery and alternator.
You should post your year, make, model of vehicle. Your bug will be a vehicle specific bug depending upon electrical schematics. Without having Honda schematics myself, if it was mine.... I'd be checking the DRL relays.
Check to make sure your 30Amp AM2 fuse is good.
That fuse is located in the engine compartment, in junction block #2, on the inside of the front left fender/wheel well area.
Totalsale4
As Shifty suggests, a digital voltmeter or test light at the washer motor will determine whether it is getting power but the motor isn't turning (washer motor bad).....or there is no power there (defective switch).
OK so I have verified that when the car is in reverse the pin on the junction box below the steering column goes from 0V to 13V properly. I have also checked some of the pins for various taillights and those too turn on when the headlights are turned on. So i think I have an actual problem with the harnessing. I cant get continuity thru the harnessing on the trunk lid to ground or any of the other wires. Do you happen to know where I could get a wiring diagram as the main harness that runs from the JB on the left side of the passenger seat has 20+ wires in it. Im trying to ring out each wire but there are some duplicate colors. -Teddaw
There is a harness that runs along the floor channel on the left hand side (drivers left side), up above the left rear wheel, and then a 12 pin connector up there. Check back there to see if can meter voltages out there.
This is really strange, don't normally see these types of problems. Was this car in an accident or something? damaging either the left side or left rear? Has somebody done some cutting or modifications....for instance rear amp or speakers or ???
Or do you mean the starter works, but the engine doesn't start running?
If it is the first, you can check the voltage on the starter primary to see if you have 13 volts, and then check the starter motor voltage.
Did you replace the parts you mentioned because they were bad (as determined by metering), or were you just replacing parts in the hope that they had something to do with the problem?
Do you know how to read electrical schematics?
If I get it narrowed down I can find someone to help me check things I can't figure out. Thanks for trying to help me.
another thing that I noticed is that you can't step on brake and put the car in gear. You need to push the override button
I'm new and thought i might give your grace and knowlage a try.
There is a similar post in here, but not quite the same.
My wife's car had stalled a few times on acceleration, but would restart, finnaly wouldn't restart (after about a week of stalls when the engine warmed up) Had to get it towed. just shut off on her... took it to a great machanic, they told me to replace the distributer (and one other thing that i can't remember now). so i bought a used distributer and it ran like a top. lately it has been lagging real hard on take off, and the idol can't make up its mind where it wants to be. between 700-1100rpm well, she had just pulled into our driveway and it shut off. didn't restart. when i got home, it restarted. AHHH! not sure what to do. Hopefully you all can help. I think there was some other part that worked with the distributer...
Matt
We need to start with the basic power. It will be helpful if you have a voltmeter to troubleshoot this problem (digital over analog is preferrable), you could probably pick it up at a radio shack or autoparts chain. Alternatively, you could probably also do this with a cheap 12v test light indicator obtainable for maybe 5-10 at an autoparts chain. The only reason I would get the voltmeter, is that when all is said and done you may have a relay with some fried relay points on it, which would show a high resistance. A test light wouldn't necessarily pick that problem up, but a digital voltmeter would show a slightly lower voltage. We may find that a test light is all you need, but if you don't have either right now and have to buy one, get a digital voltmeter.
Coming off of the battery, there is a fusible link box with 3 fusible links in it. If you stand at the front middle of the car in front of the radiator, and put your hand out at 2oclock pointing at the driver side front strut tower, and then lower your hand down you'd be approximately pointing at it. You need to check that they aren't blown, and that you have 13 volts on both sides of each fuselink.
1.) 40Amp Main, this also powers the headlight relays, so if your headlights are working at full brightness, this fuselink is probably good.
2.) 80Amp Alternator, this is connected to the alternator but also the tail lights and stop lights. Check to see if your stop lights are working as an indicator as to whether the fuselink is good.
3.) 30Amp AM2, which is what supplies power to the ignition switch.
Let me know what you find, and we'll go from there.
The problem you indicate could have many things causing the problem, and you really don't want to be just throwing parts at it in the hope that something fixes it. Could be fuel and fuel distribution, could be electrical, could be compression related. However, there are some basic maintenance items, that if they are the end of their normal published useful life, should be checked and replaced.
How old (and miles) are on the plugs, and did you replace the spark plug wires when you did the distributor? If you pull the 4 plugs now and look at them, do they indicate proper combustion or is one different looking than the others? (keep track of which plug comes from which cylinder).
Did this start after a specific fuel fill up? Could be bad gas.
Are you burning any oil or water (black, blue, or white) out of the exhaust? Are you loosing any radiator coolant? or oil?
You may want to consider taking it back to that 'really good mechanic', and let him fix it.
40amp main tested at 12.2 volts
80amp alt. no tailights or brake lights
30amp am2 tested 0.0 the fuse looked good.
Once again, thanks for taking the time to help the mechanically challenged.