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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Your 12.2volts is slightly low coming from the battery, but could be because your battery is discharged. The bigger problem is that you don't have voltage on the two fuse links.

    Disconnect your battery, and take apart the fuse links to figure out what is wrong/blown. You need 13volts on all three of those.
  • mcpete89mcpete89 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1999 Camry w/o child protection locks. Today my child (3 yrs old), unlocked the door and opened it as I drove down the road. I need something to cover the locks, or disable them from being opened to easily.

    Any suggestions on how to prevent this? After market or oem products?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Rear doors have a child lock on them, see your owners manual page 13.

    Open the door, flip the switch on the door end.
  • rantainrantain Member Posts: 2
    Hi

    I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE. The light for the A/C and temperature control panel in the dashboard has gone out. The buttons have light but the panel itself doesn't. I took the panel out and can see two light bulbs but can't figure out how to remove them. Are there any schematics available?

    Here is a picture of the part on eBay. It's the lights around each of the buttons.

    http://www.pamsauto.com/flashdata/picture.aspx?t=e&sn=H014&id=64964&h=768&w=1024- &n=1

    Thanks.
  • mcpete89mcpete89 Member Posts: 2
    AWESOME!!!

    I feel so much better...thank you!! :-)
  • matman1matman1 Member Posts: 2
    I would love to let the machanic fix it, just wouldn't be able to pay him...

    No smoke, not the gas, small exhaust leek, i thought that it might be a wierd vacume deal, can't remember what that other thing was to replace. Maybe an igniter???
    I'll see if i have one of those electrical things to test that stuff and i'll get back to you... Thanks, Matt
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    An ignition coil?

    How many miles are on this vehicle, and the plugs? How old are the ignition wires?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Paul,

    I already replied to your other posting in older camry maintenance. Pls verify whether your tail lights are working, or not.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    hmmm.....let me go back to the schematics.

    Let me summarize what I think you said.

    - tail lights are working
    - moon roof is not working
    - power windows are not working
    - air conditioner is not working

    - how do you know that the defoggers are not working?

    Do your wipers and radio work?
  • pawleeppawleep Member Posts: 8
    thanx
    was 10 amp gauge/backup light fuse
    paul
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Yep, I just concluded that from the schematics
    - The moonroof uses 10a gauge, 30a power, and 20amp dome
    - the power window uses 10a gauge, and 30 amp power
    - The rear defog uses 10 amp gauge, and 40amp defogger
    - the a/c uses 40 amp heater, and 10 amp gauge
  • greeneinkgreeneink Member Posts: 4
    Kiawah,
    I feel a little silly, but it looked liked the 80 amp alt. fuse was good. When i took apart the fuse link it was blown. That simple. runs great. thank you very much
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Excellent, glad it worked out...thanks for the feedback.

    My fear was that once you got that fixed, that there might be something else further downstream that was also blown out as well. Glad it was just that one fuselink. Where were you able to find a replacement?
  • dannyd5dannyd5 Member Posts: 1
    WHEN I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH AND TURN THE KEY TO START THE CAR NOTHING HAPPENS, ALL DASH LIGHTS COMES ON, I CHANGED ALL FUSES IN THE KICK PANEL AND UNDER THE HOOD 20,15,10, 7.5 JUST TO BE SURE, STILL NOTHING, I DISCONNECTED THE NEGATIVE ON THE BATTERY AND PUT IT BACK ON, TURNED THE KEY AND IT STARTED, BUT THE PROBLEM STILL HAPPENS OFTEN, I'M NOT SURE WHAT IS CAUSING THIS, WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The starting circuitry is comprised of:
    - the battery,
    - a couple fusible links
    - the ignition switch
    - the clutch start switch (manual only)
    - a starter relay (manual only)
    - the starter motor

    You could have a problem in any of those. You'll need to trouble shoot with a digital voltmeter, to figure out where you have voltage and where you don't ........ when the car isn't starting. Since the clutch switch is approx half way in the circuitry, I'd start there by measuring the voltage on both sides of the switch. Measure with the clutch depressed, you should have 13v on both legs of the switch. If no voltage there, then backup thru the ignition switch. If you do have correct voltage, then check the voltages on the starter itself.
  • mrice20mrice20 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '96 Camry LE 4door 4cyl. I turned the wipers on once this morning to clean the windshield since it had rained and then I started hearing this low whining noise and the wipers will not stop moving. I wanted to check the fuse, but I don't know where it's located. Any other ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be the switch is bad, the relay on the switch is bad, or slimmer chance the wiper motor (since it's actually running now). Pull the 20Amp Wiper fuse to stop the motor. The fuse box is by your left knee, behind the ashtray.

    ComboSwitch

    Good luck
  • mrice20mrice20 Member Posts: 2
    How do I check the switch or the relay?
  • mrwi97mrwi97 Member Posts: 1
    my 96camry ( 4c ) 4dr is having trouble starting at times. I put in a new ignition switch,a new starter, and a new alternator and I'm still having problems with it starting.

    it will turn over for 10 to 20 turns and then on the 21st turn nothing! as if my starter is bad? But if I take the starter out and reconnect it, it works for another 10-20 starts? I had the new items checked before I put them in and they all worked.

    If I let it sit for 6-8 hours after it won't start, it will turn over as if nothings up? please help a frustrated camry owner. It has 148,000 mi
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    3 major areas to investigate with an intermittent problem:
    - the ignition switch circuitry which supplies power to the primary of the starter relay coil(the thinner wire). Measure the voltage with a digital voltmeter, both when it is working correctly, and when it's not. Use a fused test wire if you need tom measure at the starter connection, the thinner wire. Should be the battery voltage (13+volts) when the key is engaged, 0 when not.
    - Check that the battery is good, the connectors are tight on both ends of the main cables, and no corrosion on the connectors or up in the cables. Auto parts chains will do free battery and alternator load tests. Visually you should have no corrosion, if you suspect internal wire corrosion you can either replace the cables, or I can tell you how to measure for this. Check for both your + cable, and your - cable, on both ends of the cable.
    - If both of those check out, then it is likely the starter itself.
  • ravibravib Member Posts: 1
    Did you find out the problem why your camry was blowing 10A fuses?
  • denise15denise15 Member Posts: 2
    Have a 2005 Camry - both cigarette lighters (power adapters) do not work and checked most every fuse, including OBD that I found in another discussion.
    Can anyone advise? Everything else works but cigarette lighter and second adapter.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You replied to a 2 year old post. Do you have a current problem that you are trying to figure out? What are the symptoms?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The ACC Relay, controls two fuses.
    - a 15Amp Cigarette Lighter fuse, which then goes to the cigarette lighter,
    - a 15Amp Power Outlet fuse, which provides power to the two other power outlets.

    You mention a cigarette lighter and second adapter not working. I would check the third outlet as well, just to be sure you are not confusing the cigarette lighter with the 2nd power outlet.

    If all 3 are not working, and both of those fuses are okay (you should measure continuity with a meter to be sure (or just replace them since they are cheap), then replace the ACC (accessory) relay. Be sure the fuses really are okay, before shelling out the $$'s for the relay.

    If one of the 3 outlets work, it is undoubtedly the cigarette lighter working, which proves your ACC relay is okay (since it's powering the lighter circuit), so the problem is the fuse for the power outlets. If the two power outlets are working, but the cigarette isn't, then you know the fuse for the cigarette lighter is bad.

    Good luck, let us know how it goes.
  • denise15denise15 Member Posts: 2
    This is very helpful. Thank you.
    How do I know which is the 15 amp power outlet fuse? And think we are talking about the fuse box inside the car.
    3 outlets? Only know of 2 and both are not working so sounds like it could be the ACC relay. Can you tell me what that is?
    Thank you!!!!
    Denise
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Look in your owners manual, will show you the location of the power outlets. There's one up on the front side of the console, and one further back. I believe the fuse layout is in your owners manual as well. You should see one called the power point or power outlet, it's a 15Amp in upper right corner of the fuse junction box.

    The ACC relay, is on the backside of the junction box where the fuses are by your left knee.

    There are 6 relays, in the lower left corner of the junction box.....2 columns of 3 each. The ACC relay, is the one that is the most lowest, leftest.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Yes ravib I did. A broken rear taillight harness in the trunk was grounding out and blowing the fuse protecting the reverse lights, guages...and so on. Whenever I put the car in reverse the fuse would blow, because the reverse lights were trying to illuminate. This seems to be a common problem with these camrys of 97-02. The wire harness runs along the left arm of the trunk and snaps from bending back and forth as thr trunk lid goes up and down. Hope this helps...Ryan
  • kvmrmckvmrmc Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1996 Camry which recently had a fender bender. It made the right front bumper light arc inside the fixture. The bulb came apart and touched the refelctor inside. I changed the fuse and checked all the bulbs. The Hazard flasher still works and I replaced the blown bulb. The turn signal does not work now, no right or left turn signal. I assume it might be the switch as I have tried the bulbs, fuse, and flasher. Any help would be appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    This circuit is fed by two fuses, the 7.5Amp Turn fuse, and the 10A Hazard fuse. Both of those fuses are fed to the hazard switch.

    When the hazard switch is in the On position, it feeds the 10A hazard voltage to the turn signal flasher. It also connects the output of the signal flasher relay to the 4 corner bulbs, and the turn signal indicator lights in the dash combo meter.

    When the hazard switch is in the Off position, it feeds the 7.5A Turn voltage to the turn signal flasher. The output of the flasher is connected to the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch, then completes the circuit to either RH or LH bulbs.

    So in your case if I understand the symptoms you've given......when the hazard switch is depressed, the flasher works and so do the bulbs. So you know those pieces of the regular turn signal circuitry are okay. The remaining pieces of that circuitry are the 7.5 amp turn fuse, the turn signal side of the hazard switch, or the turn signal switch itself.

    Since neither the right or left work, I think it's unlikely that the source of the problem is the turn signal switch. I think it is more likely to be the 7.5A fuse, or the hazard switch, so that is where I would suggest you start. Check again your fuse very carefully, to be sure that it really is okay. Replace it if you are in doubt, it's a lot easier and cheaper than starting to tear into the circuitry and switches.

    If you have an ohmmeter, you can check out your hazard switch. When the hazard switch is in the off position, pin 10 (the 7.5amp fuse feed) should be connected to pin 7. Pin 7 goes off and is connected to pin 2 of the flasher. I think you'll find this connection not being made correctly (this is assuming that replacing the fuse hasn't fixed the problem).

    For grins if you want to check the other pins of the hazard switch, when the hazard switch is in the On position, pin 8 (the 10A fuse feed) will be connected to pin 7. And also pin9 will be connected to both pin 5 and pin 6.

    Good luck, let me know how it goes.
  • kvmrmckvmrmc Member Posts: 6
    Thank you. Can you help me locate the 7.5A fuse? I found the 10 under the flaser.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It's in the fuse insturment panel fuse box, by your left knee.

    There are 12 fuses all lined up, 4 columns going across, 3 rows down.

    The 7.5A is in the 2nd row down (the middle row), and the 2nd one over.
  • beachluvrbeachluvr Member Posts: 1
    Where are the fusible links in a 95 Camry LE ?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    up in the engine compartment. Follow the + cable from the battery
  • kvmrmckvmrmc Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1996 Camry 4-cyl. and I changed out a fuse recently and I got a dashboard Airbag warning indicator. Can anyone help explain this more than the manual, on how to troubleshoot it. Or is this a factory reset situation?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Which fuse was blown, that you replaced?
  • kvmrmckvmrmc Member Posts: 6
    I replacd the fuse with one from below in the row under it. Then I repalced that emptied slot with a new one.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Which fuse was is? How many amperage (something like 15A, 10A, 7.5A), and what was written on the PC board where it plugs in? Or alternatively, which fuse box is it (e.g fuse box by left knee, fuse box up in engine compartment on drivers wheel well behind left headlight, fuse on one of the relay boards behind oneof the kick panels, etc), and which position (ie, starting on the top left edge, go over 2 columns to the right, and then down 3 fuses)?

    I'm trying to back into the circuit where your original problem was, to determine what all is on that circuit that could have a problem, to determine how it might effect the current problem.

    WIthout providing any specifics, there is nothing anybody can do remotely.
  • kvmrmckvmrmc Member Posts: 6
    I took out the fuse from the SRS slot to replace the blown turn signal fuse. My fuse box diagram states I took the SRS 7.5A when I did this. The fuse box is behind my coin tray on the lower left side of the dashboard.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I understand what you did now. You had a problem with the turn signal, and you took the fuse out of the SRS to use to fix the turn signal. When you replaced the SRS fuse, you now have an error light.

    There is power from three sources used in the SRS system, make sure all three power sources have good fuses. You may consider measuring the fuse resistance with an ohometer, to be sure it is good. All three are in the fuse box by your left knee, and are right near the other fuse you worked on.

    - The 7.5A IGN fuse
    - The 15A Cig/Radio fuse
    - The 7.5A SRS fuse

    When you pulled the fuse, you probably set an error condition (Diagnostic Trouble Code). If the SRS indicator light is on, and the diagnostic code is 'normal', then that is due to a source voltage problem.

    Try this to clear codes...
    Ignition switch ON/OFF operation (ON, wait 20 secs, OFF, wait 20 secs), do this 5 times.

    If that doesn't work, then you will have to clear the codes at the connector, by alternatively gounding two different pins, in a timed sequence. Unless you are very mechanically handy, you may just want to take it to the dealer to do.
  • kvmrmckvmrmc Member Posts: 6
    Thank you, I tried the 20-sec, 5 times fix. My SRS indicator light flickered after the 5 times and I turned the car on.

    I guess its dealer time.
  • jmillsajmillsa Member Posts: 1
    electric door lock not working on passenger side. any ideas on issue?
    thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    First, verify that it doesn't work from the passenger side switch either. Then take off the passenger inside door panel, and check to see that you are getting voltage to the door lock solenoid (when you depress the switch) If so, then that confirms the solenoid bad.
  • ashullashull Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    My 2000 Camry with 95,000 miles has a rear light failure warning light on. Have checked all the bulbs and none are burned out. Anyone know why this may have happened? Solutions?

    Thanks
    Ann
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    There is a light failure sensor, which is monitoring the combined current collectively going out to the 2 rear brake lights, and the the high center mounted stop light. If it doesn't sense enough current being drawn by the lights (which would happen if a bulb out), it turns on the indicator light on your dash.

    You should check your bulbs very carefully, and make sure you have the right bulb type in, and it is in the socket in the correct orientation. Dual filament bulbs need to have the lower wattage filament come on with the headlights at night, the higher wattage filament comes on when the brake is depressed.

    I believe the correct bulb type is listed in the back of the owners manual, although sometimes I get my vehicles confused. If it was me, I'd just replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and make sure they are put in with the correct orientation.

    If that doesn't fix your problem, then you will need to replace the light failure sensor.....although I would be very surprised if the problem wasn't with one of your bulbs.

    Good luck, let us know how it goes.
  • throttle2000throttle2000 Member Posts: 1
    toyota 2000 camry 24,000miles--had the same for year and half: ON and OFF, most of the time ON--had checked all bulbs-all were fine. It was OFF at my last service visit to the Toyota dealership, so no action taken.
    On Friday 5-23-08 my car had SUDDEN UNCONTROLLED UNINTENDED ACCELERATION in the parking space of the Post Office. Filed to NHTSA complaint ODI 10228916. I am a good driver and my foot was on the PARK.
    After i moved Shift to Park, heard a LOUD POP-Bang coming from low front/engine location, in instance, may be half of second-- my car was suicidal --jumping over concrete space guard, over concrete sidewalk into the brick wall, hit it and stopped w/engine running! since it was in the PARK--then took the ignition key out. Heavy smoke/sparks --run away from the car b/c expected more fire or explosion.
    30 minutes later my car w/deployed airbags/cracked w/shield was back to normal, so with bystanders moved/reversed it back down from the sidewalk and drove 1 mile home w/radiator leak. Still do not know if Park prevailed or it stopped b/c air-bags deployed. Seatbelt was already released since the parking was almost finished--they got pinned/jammed to the walls, you can not move them at all--was told at dealership that this s.b. cut at the crash!
    Toyota TFS-technical field specialist-- checked it at the dealership--nothing is disclosed to me; 4weeks later got an useless empty answer from the Toyota Legal Dept. that both systems --Parking and Throttle control are working fine. Verbal repair estimate $8-9,000 from the Toyota affiliated bodyshop!
    My question: should be there some codes recorded by the system ( ECM), since air-bags deployed and what is the forecast for the same killing attempt. What could be an origin of the LOUD BANG from the engine prior to the forward gasp?
    24,000 mile-1st owner--Camry 2000 with 4cyl 2.2L DOHC engine, fuel injection, 4-speed automatic ect transmission. Georgetown, KY (Drive-by-wire, NO cruise control)
    SOS--Please Help-- since the Begemoth Toyota is the last one on the Earth who is willing to admit this SA-sudden acceleration or help, may be 10 years later. Not looking for profit --was lucky enough that NOBODY killed and minor burn from airbags.
  • monmyemonmye Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1991 Toyota Camry.

    I have replaced two fuses, 7.5 and 15 that operate the A/C, gauges for gas, etc...
    I start the engine after I replace the fuses and they seem to work. On a second restart of my car, the fuses get blown again. I have tried this two times now in replacing the fuses and them being blown out.

    Does anyone happen to know why this could be happening and a potential solution tht doesn't require alot of $?

    Thanks,
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Personally speaking, I can't see how these two situations could at all be related. The light sensing circuit is a little standalone circuit, simply monitors the current draw of the tail lights, and turns on an indicator light if detects a problem.

    In regards to the accident, I don't know what the ECM would have recorded or not, and whether it has been erased overwritten automatically by you then driving the vehicle. I'm sure others could give you better guidance, and I'd suggest posting in the Edmunds forum on Accidents and Insurance. I'd be inclined to think that I'd write a letter to Toyota asking for a copy of all reports and findings that they made, but I don't know that they are bligated to do that or not. Might take a lawyers letter to get any action. I can't imagine what would have made a loud BANG as you mention, but would think that if there was a BANG...they would have found something broken.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Exactly which two fuses are blowing. There is writing on the fuse block, which will tell you what the name of the fuse is. If you can't read it, tell me something like "2nd row down, third fuse over"

    I assume the 7.5 Amp is the one called 7.5A Gauge. What is the 15 Amp?
  • monmyemonmye Member Posts: 4
    I don't have a fuse "map" that specifies the placement of the fuses and the for what of the fuse...it seems to be missing.

    The two I replaced are in the top row, looking straight at fuse box right to left:

    1st place, rootbeer color fuse 7.5
    5th place, lightblue color fuse 15 (the light blue fuse is in the last place of the top row, I think that's correct.

    Thanks,
    Monica
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The 7.5 is the gauge fuse, the 15amp is your tail fuse.

    This won't be simple to isolate and fix, you'll probably need a very good garage to troubleshoot this one.

    The 7.5 gauge fuse feeds a lot of things, including things like:
    integration relay
    light failure sensor, rear lights warning light
    backup lights
    power main relay,
    seat belt/should belt stuff
    automatic transmission and overdrive indicators,
    the engine ECU 'computer'
    transmission lock solenoid and indicator
    ABS warning light
    rear window defogger and relay
    antenna motor and control
    combo meter (your dash)
    heater/ac blower and control motors and circuits.

    The 15A tail powers
    the engine ECU
    combo meter
    wiper switch cruise control, rear window defogger, cig lighter, and a whole bunch of switch lights (transmission lock light, ac switch light, defogger light, etc)
    rear and front side marker lights, taillights, etc
    clock
    light failure sensor

    The symptom that both fuses blow at the same time, would lead one to suspect a failing component that are powered by both of those circuits:
    - engine ECU (computer)
    - combination meter (your dashboard)
    - light failure sensor
    - possibly a very bad switch, where the light circuit of the switch is shorting to the switched load portion of the switch
    - etc

    Since it could be a number of things, you should try to look and/or sense additional symptoms (clues). When the fuses aren't blown and the engine is running, does the engine run all right, or would you suspect that it could be the ECU. If the engine runs all right, is it shifting correctly? Other than when you turn the engine off, do the fuses ever blow at some other time? If everything is turned off before the engine (radio, ac, lights, etc), do the fuses still blow?

    I suspect you might have a bad computer, but would want to exhaust all other possible options before replacing that ($$$).

    Good luck !!
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