Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Disconnect your battery, and take apart the fuse links to figure out what is wrong/blown. You need 13volts on all three of those.
Any suggestions on how to prevent this? After market or oem products?
Open the door, flip the switch on the door end.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE. The light for the A/C and temperature control panel in the dashboard has gone out. The buttons have light but the panel itself doesn't. I took the panel out and can see two light bulbs but can't figure out how to remove them. Are there any schematics available?
Here is a picture of the part on eBay. It's the lights around each of the buttons.
http://www.pamsauto.com/flashdata/picture.aspx?t=e&sn=H014&id=64964&h=768&w=1024- &n=1
Thanks.
I feel so much better...thank you!! :-)
No smoke, not the gas, small exhaust leek, i thought that it might be a wierd vacume deal, can't remember what that other thing was to replace. Maybe an igniter???
I'll see if i have one of those electrical things to test that stuff and i'll get back to you... Thanks, Matt
How many miles are on this vehicle, and the plugs? How old are the ignition wires?
I already replied to your other posting in older camry maintenance. Pls verify whether your tail lights are working, or not.
Let me summarize what I think you said.
- tail lights are working
- moon roof is not working
- power windows are not working
- air conditioner is not working
- how do you know that the defoggers are not working?
Do your wipers and radio work?
was 10 amp gauge/backup light fuse
paul
- The moonroof uses 10a gauge, 30a power, and 20amp dome
- the power window uses 10a gauge, and 30 amp power
- The rear defog uses 10 amp gauge, and 40amp defogger
- the a/c uses 40 amp heater, and 10 amp gauge
I feel a little silly, but it looked liked the 80 amp alt. fuse was good. When i took apart the fuse link it was blown. That simple. runs great. thank you very much
My fear was that once you got that fixed, that there might be something else further downstream that was also blown out as well. Glad it was just that one fuselink. Where were you able to find a replacement?
- the battery,
- a couple fusible links
- the ignition switch
- the clutch start switch (manual only)
- a starter relay (manual only)
- the starter motor
You could have a problem in any of those. You'll need to trouble shoot with a digital voltmeter, to figure out where you have voltage and where you don't ........ when the car isn't starting. Since the clutch switch is approx half way in the circuitry, I'd start there by measuring the voltage on both sides of the switch. Measure with the clutch depressed, you should have 13v on both legs of the switch. If no voltage there, then backup thru the ignition switch. If you do have correct voltage, then check the voltages on the starter itself.
ComboSwitch
Good luck
it will turn over for 10 to 20 turns and then on the 21st turn nothing! as if my starter is bad? But if I take the starter out and reconnect it, it works for another 10-20 starts? I had the new items checked before I put them in and they all worked.
If I let it sit for 6-8 hours after it won't start, it will turn over as if nothings up? please help a frustrated camry owner. It has 148,000 mi
- the ignition switch circuitry which supplies power to the primary of the starter relay coil(the thinner wire). Measure the voltage with a digital voltmeter, both when it is working correctly, and when it's not. Use a fused test wire if you need tom measure at the starter connection, the thinner wire. Should be the battery voltage (13+volts) when the key is engaged, 0 when not.
- Check that the battery is good, the connectors are tight on both ends of the main cables, and no corrosion on the connectors or up in the cables. Auto parts chains will do free battery and alternator load tests. Visually you should have no corrosion, if you suspect internal wire corrosion you can either replace the cables, or I can tell you how to measure for this. Check for both your + cable, and your - cable, on both ends of the cable.
- If both of those check out, then it is likely the starter itself.
Can anyone advise? Everything else works but cigarette lighter and second adapter.
- a 15Amp Cigarette Lighter fuse, which then goes to the cigarette lighter,
- a 15Amp Power Outlet fuse, which provides power to the two other power outlets.
You mention a cigarette lighter and second adapter not working. I would check the third outlet as well, just to be sure you are not confusing the cigarette lighter with the 2nd power outlet.
If all 3 are not working, and both of those fuses are okay (you should measure continuity with a meter to be sure (or just replace them since they are cheap), then replace the ACC (accessory) relay. Be sure the fuses really are okay, before shelling out the $$'s for the relay.
If one of the 3 outlets work, it is undoubtedly the cigarette lighter working, which proves your ACC relay is okay (since it's powering the lighter circuit), so the problem is the fuse for the power outlets. If the two power outlets are working, but the cigarette isn't, then you know the fuse for the cigarette lighter is bad.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
How do I know which is the 15 amp power outlet fuse? And think we are talking about the fuse box inside the car.
3 outlets? Only know of 2 and both are not working so sounds like it could be the ACC relay. Can you tell me what that is?
Thank you!!!!
Denise
The ACC relay, is on the backside of the junction box where the fuses are by your left knee.
There are 6 relays, in the lower left corner of the junction box.....2 columns of 3 each. The ACC relay, is the one that is the most lowest, leftest.
When the hazard switch is in the On position, it feeds the 10A hazard voltage to the turn signal flasher. It also connects the output of the signal flasher relay to the 4 corner bulbs, and the turn signal indicator lights in the dash combo meter.
When the hazard switch is in the Off position, it feeds the 7.5A Turn voltage to the turn signal flasher. The output of the flasher is connected to the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch, then completes the circuit to either RH or LH bulbs.
So in your case if I understand the symptoms you've given......when the hazard switch is depressed, the flasher works and so do the bulbs. So you know those pieces of the regular turn signal circuitry are okay. The remaining pieces of that circuitry are the 7.5 amp turn fuse, the turn signal side of the hazard switch, or the turn signal switch itself.
Since neither the right or left work, I think it's unlikely that the source of the problem is the turn signal switch. I think it is more likely to be the 7.5A fuse, or the hazard switch, so that is where I would suggest you start. Check again your fuse very carefully, to be sure that it really is okay. Replace it if you are in doubt, it's a lot easier and cheaper than starting to tear into the circuitry and switches.
If you have an ohmmeter, you can check out your hazard switch. When the hazard switch is in the off position, pin 10 (the 7.5amp fuse feed) should be connected to pin 7. Pin 7 goes off and is connected to pin 2 of the flasher. I think you'll find this connection not being made correctly (this is assuming that replacing the fuse hasn't fixed the problem).
For grins if you want to check the other pins of the hazard switch, when the hazard switch is in the On position, pin 8 (the 10A fuse feed) will be connected to pin 7. And also pin9 will be connected to both pin 5 and pin 6.
Good luck, let me know how it goes.
There are 12 fuses all lined up, 4 columns going across, 3 rows down.
The 7.5A is in the 2nd row down (the middle row), and the 2nd one over.
I'm trying to back into the circuit where your original problem was, to determine what all is on that circuit that could have a problem, to determine how it might effect the current problem.
WIthout providing any specifics, there is nothing anybody can do remotely.
There is power from three sources used in the SRS system, make sure all three power sources have good fuses. You may consider measuring the fuse resistance with an ohometer, to be sure it is good. All three are in the fuse box by your left knee, and are right near the other fuse you worked on.
- The 7.5A IGN fuse
- The 15A Cig/Radio fuse
- The 7.5A SRS fuse
When you pulled the fuse, you probably set an error condition (Diagnostic Trouble Code). If the SRS indicator light is on, and the diagnostic code is 'normal', then that is due to a source voltage problem.
Try this to clear codes...
Ignition switch ON/OFF operation (ON, wait 20 secs, OFF, wait 20 secs), do this 5 times.
If that doesn't work, then you will have to clear the codes at the connector, by alternatively gounding two different pins, in a timed sequence. Unless you are very mechanically handy, you may just want to take it to the dealer to do.
I guess its dealer time.
thanks
My 2000 Camry with 95,000 miles has a rear light failure warning light on. Have checked all the bulbs and none are burned out. Anyone know why this may have happened? Solutions?
Thanks
Ann
You should check your bulbs very carefully, and make sure you have the right bulb type in, and it is in the socket in the correct orientation. Dual filament bulbs need to have the lower wattage filament come on with the headlights at night, the higher wattage filament comes on when the brake is depressed.
I believe the correct bulb type is listed in the back of the owners manual, although sometimes I get my vehicles confused. If it was me, I'd just replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and make sure they are put in with the correct orientation.
If that doesn't fix your problem, then you will need to replace the light failure sensor.....although I would be very surprised if the problem wasn't with one of your bulbs.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
On Friday 5-23-08 my car had SUDDEN UNCONTROLLED UNINTENDED ACCELERATION in the parking space of the Post Office. Filed to NHTSA complaint ODI 10228916. I am a good driver and my foot was on the PARK.
After i moved Shift to Park, heard a LOUD POP-Bang coming from low front/engine location, in instance, may be half of second-- my car was suicidal --jumping over concrete space guard, over concrete sidewalk into the brick wall, hit it and stopped w/engine running! since it was in the PARK--then took the ignition key out. Heavy smoke/sparks --run away from the car b/c expected more fire or explosion.
30 minutes later my car w/deployed airbags/cracked w/shield was back to normal, so with bystanders moved/reversed it back down from the sidewalk and drove 1 mile home w/radiator leak. Still do not know if Park prevailed or it stopped b/c air-bags deployed. Seatbelt was already released since the parking was almost finished--they got pinned/jammed to the walls, you can not move them at all--was told at dealership that this s.b. cut at the crash!
Toyota TFS-technical field specialist-- checked it at the dealership--nothing is disclosed to me; 4weeks later got an useless empty answer from the Toyota Legal Dept. that both systems --Parking and Throttle control are working fine. Verbal repair estimate $8-9,000 from the Toyota affiliated bodyshop!
My question: should be there some codes recorded by the system ( ECM), since air-bags deployed and what is the forecast for the same killing attempt. What could be an origin of the LOUD BANG from the engine prior to the forward gasp?
24,000 mile-1st owner--Camry 2000 with 4cyl 2.2L DOHC engine, fuel injection, 4-speed automatic ect transmission. Georgetown, KY (Drive-by-wire, NO cruise control)
SOS--Please Help-- since the Begemoth Toyota is the last one on the Earth who is willing to admit this SA-sudden acceleration or help, may be 10 years later. Not looking for profit --was lucky enough that NOBODY killed and minor burn from airbags.
I have replaced two fuses, 7.5 and 15 that operate the A/C, gauges for gas, etc...
I start the engine after I replace the fuses and they seem to work. On a second restart of my car, the fuses get blown again. I have tried this two times now in replacing the fuses and them being blown out.
Does anyone happen to know why this could be happening and a potential solution tht doesn't require alot of $?
Thanks,
In regards to the accident, I don't know what the ECM would have recorded or not, and whether it has been erased overwritten automatically by you then driving the vehicle. I'm sure others could give you better guidance, and I'd suggest posting in the Edmunds forum on Accidents and Insurance. I'd be inclined to think that I'd write a letter to Toyota asking for a copy of all reports and findings that they made, but I don't know that they are bligated to do that or not. Might take a lawyers letter to get any action. I can't imagine what would have made a loud BANG as you mention, but would think that if there was a BANG...they would have found something broken.
I assume the 7.5 Amp is the one called 7.5A Gauge. What is the 15 Amp?
The two I replaced are in the top row, looking straight at fuse box right to left:
1st place, rootbeer color fuse 7.5
5th place, lightblue color fuse 15 (the light blue fuse is in the last place of the top row, I think that's correct.
Thanks,
Monica
This won't be simple to isolate and fix, you'll probably need a very good garage to troubleshoot this one.
The 7.5 gauge fuse feeds a lot of things, including things like:
integration relay
light failure sensor, rear lights warning light
backup lights
power main relay,
seat belt/should belt stuff
automatic transmission and overdrive indicators,
the engine ECU 'computer'
transmission lock solenoid and indicator
ABS warning light
rear window defogger and relay
antenna motor and control
combo meter (your dash)
heater/ac blower and control motors and circuits.
The 15A tail powers
the engine ECU
combo meter
wiper switch cruise control, rear window defogger, cig lighter, and a whole bunch of switch lights (transmission lock light, ac switch light, defogger light, etc)
rear and front side marker lights, taillights, etc
clock
light failure sensor
The symptom that both fuses blow at the same time, would lead one to suspect a failing component that are powered by both of those circuits:
- engine ECU (computer)
- combination meter (your dashboard)
- light failure sensor
- possibly a very bad switch, where the light circuit of the switch is shorting to the switched load portion of the switch
- etc
Since it could be a number of things, you should try to look and/or sense additional symptoms (clues). When the fuses aren't blown and the engine is running, does the engine run all right, or would you suspect that it could be the ECU. If the engine runs all right, is it shifting correctly? Other than when you turn the engine off, do the fuses ever blow at some other time? If everything is turned off before the engine (radio, ac, lights, etc), do the fuses still blow?
I suspect you might have a bad computer, but would want to exhaust all other possible options before replacing that ($$$).
Good luck !!