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Is there anything about this car, that you didn't disclose or think was related to your problem? Things that might add a clue.........
- car was recently in an accident,
- you recently had someone do some work on it, fixing and repairing ......
- someone was working on the dashboard, messing around with the wiring and adding a new radio.
- car was in a flood, or you hosed off the engine trying to clean it
- lightning hit a tree right near the vehicle.
Thank you for the information...sometimes the car does seem to have some problems in shifting. And feels a little jerky at times. I thought it might need a tune-up/new spark plug.
I'll look into talking to a mecahnic and see what the potential damage could run.
Monica
Most of the other questions you asked didn't apply with the exception of the lightening. We recently had a lightening storm here, but the fuses didn't go out until some time aferwards. I think I'll blame it on the person that I helped jump start her battery.
thanks,
monica
Do this then....take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (autozone, pepboys, etc), and have them do a battery and alternator check under 'load'. This is a free test. They'll check that the battery is able to delivery a certain amount of current, and that there are no bad cells and it can hold the required voltage.
The alternator load test will test to make sure it is delivering enough current and voltage to recharge the battery.
Make sure these aren't contributing to the symptoms.
I have had had the same problem twice, the rear light indicator would come on after starting the car a depressing the brake pedal the first time. All the bulbs in the rear were OK. Once was in April 08 and once about 3 years ago.
Two different Toyota dealer shops found the same problem each time: a short had developed in the wiring harness inside the the trunk lid under the insulation. The second time it had happened we were on the way to the airport, I had a luggage in the trunk and had just shut the lid.
Was your wire problem at the flex point where the wire moves everytime the trunk opens or closes? or was it really up underneath the insulation where it may have been pinched by jamming the trunk lid down on an overfilled trunk?
I have just been dealing with the same problem. Broken wire at the harness adjacent to the trunk hinge. This shorted out fuse but also seems to have burnt the light failure unit which is located on the left side of the trunk behind the liner. Just follow the harness. I managed a repair by soldering the the affected wires. Toyota wanted 275.00 cnd for the unit. Ebay had it for about 50.00us. I also had several defective new bulbs so don't assume that the new bulb you put in is working. Check with a meter before installing.
Thanks
Gen 4 Basic Electrical
There are three fuses which feed the AC control circuitry, a 40A Heater fuse, a 10A AC fuse, and the 10A Gauge fuse. You also have a relay called Heater, which is integral to this power circuit.
The Gauge fuse is in the normal fuse box. The other three, are located in a relay block down in the lower right passenger side kick panel.
For the clutch control, there is a magnetic clutch relay, which is controlled (turned on/off), by the AC amplifier. When the relay is turned on, the clutch is powered and turned on. The clutch also has a lock sensor attached to it, which feeds back to the ac amplifier. There is an evaporator temperature sensor, runs from the AC amplifier thru the lock sensor, and back to the AC amplifier. There is also a dual pressure switch (monitors high and low pressure), which feeds to the AC amplifier.
I can see how the speed sensor might keep the transmission in first and reverse (Engine wouldn't think the car is moving, so wouldn't upshift it)....but can't imagine how that would prevent the car from being started, windows and moonroof from working, etc.
The speedsensor is connected to the dash speedometer (combo meter), which is then connected to the ECM.
Was the speed sensor just not connected? or defective and had to be replaced? We're you blowing the 10A Gauge fuse?
I'd continue to be a little concerned for a while, and continue to watch everything closely.
Your response is much appreciated.
SuperG
In the Fuse Box, there are a whole series of fuses. You have two specifically that you should be concerned with. There is a 15 Amp fuse for Cigarette lighter, and a 15Amp fuse for the power point. The top row of fuses has 6 fuses in it. 3rd one from the left is the cig lighter, and the one in the top right position is the power point.
There are usually 3 fuses feeding the radio, but they differ based upon whether you have the standard 6 speaker, 8 speaker w/o NAV, or 8 speaker w/NAV
For the 6 speaker audio, there are two fuses:
- 15Amp Radio#1, in the engine compartment, on the left fenderwall
- 7.5Amp ACC Radio#2, in the passenger compartment, drivers side underdash
The 8 speaker adds to that, an additional fuse:
- 25Amp AMP, engine compartment, left fenderwall
I have checked repeatedly to see if there are lights out and the only other light that is out is one of the license plate light bulbs. Any ideas???
1.) When you replaced the bulb in the center light, did you replace it with the correct numbered bulb? I believe the owners manual has a listing of all of the correct bulbs that are supposed to be used.
2.) You may have a problem with one of your dual filament brake bulbs, where it 'looks' ON to you, but in reality one of the filaments is broken and shorting against the other filament (causing it to be 'on', but dim). Dual filament bulbs have a lower wattage filament used for corner marking lights at night, and then a higher filament bulb used for the brake light. Look very closely at the bulb filaments, or since they're cheap it might just be easier to replace them. Pay attention as to how the bulb goes into the socket, there are two prongs on the bulb base, offset where one of the prongs is deeper and fits into the deeper groove in the socket. The bulb needs to go in the correct way, so the higher wattage filament gets used by the brake circuit.
It is not the gas cap, Could this also be the plugs need to be changed, is this very expensive to repair.
thanks :confuse:
You didn't say which indicator light came on so I am going to guess that it is an engine problem indicator. These cover a wide range and are beyond my expertise. Usually the most common issue would be an oxygen sensor as I understand it. I would recommend that you take it in to someone that has a unit that can read the computer codes and this should tell the story.
The plugs are a normal change item at 60,000 miles or less depending on year make and model. Like the last post have Autozone run a free check for you. They know where the connector is on your 96 Camry.
If its the 3s-Fe engine which means 4cylinder, a popular engine in the 92-98 Camry. Then the data link connector(DLC) is next to the left strut tower with the black plastic cap. Another area is in the passenger compartment, I believe left of the steering column knee high, under the fuse box lid. The lid pulls right off. This is where I would have them connect the scanner tool, . There is a wire bundle there open on the one end for the connector.
The engine size sticker is under the hood. A 5x5 white sticker attached to the front of the hood, the bottom row has the engine numbers and letters. To make the light go out, remove the fuse in the engine compartment marked STOP or EFI for 10seconds. Have the ignition key OFF.
Thanks in advance.
I see you disconnected the turn light. Did you actually remove the bulb? That is what will make the relay buzz some more. When a bulb burns out, the flasher will starts to go faster. Check the bulbs front and back to see which one is not lighting, then replace the bulb. Since the right side is working, I would compare lights, left against right.
Its easier to do at night or in the shade.
Thanks
Thanks,
Susan
Id replace the bulbs that are not working when you compare it to the other side. I just got back to my email to answer your question I hope it is going well.
Try removing the lock relay first then reinstall I have a 93 and could check to see where it is. I think its the one in the engine compartment fuse box. Also there is a black box up under the left rear fender in the trunk I think it is related to your problem because I replaced them when we had some electric problem on Camry's back in the late 90's.I got to search this out first. You cant see it unless the wall cover is removed.
Could one of these be the problem or could something else be causing this? Also how would I remove these type B fuses, they don't seem to be the regular pull out.
Thanks for your help
when left overnight either plugged in or not (i'm in canada with block heaters) my car won't start in the morning.
weird things about my car:
there is power to the radio but no sound
interior lights do not work
headlights come on whether switched on or not (switch does nothing)
power windows and locks (sort of) work
brake lights and signal lights work
rear defrost works
should i just replace all of the fuses? please help.
It sounds like the headlight switch is crossing circuits . Since the interior lights dont work and the headlight switch is not working Most cars only have a circuit breaker for the headlights not a fuse. I would disconnect it for left and right headlights. I'll try and find the wire schematic before sounding like I dont know what I talking about
Radios have two fuses one for the light other for the sound.The light is usually connected to the interior lights.
no, i don't disconnect the battery when parked overnight, it just drains itself in the cold weather even when the block heater is plugged in. (i checked the extension cord that i'm using to plug in the car and it has power).
so i'm thinking, the block heater may not be doing its job, or something left on (i.e. broken interior lights or head lights) are draining the battery overnight.
recently, after having a mandatory immobilizer installed, my dash lights went out too. i'm so frustrated!
any luck finding the wiring schematic for disconnecting the headlights?
I just bought a fuse tester and replaced some fuses so now the radio, clock, power locks, sun visor and front seat interior lights and cigarette lighter work. hooray!
Then I did some tests...
took out all 4 15V head light fuses = no lights
put in L & R fuses for low head lights = no lights
put in L & R fuses for high head lights = lights work
the head light switch being on or off did not effect anything
also, just realized that neither L or R front turn signals work...
also, the L&R low head light fuses were in some goopy glue type stuff...