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Comments
You could check it easy enough with an ohmmeter, measure continuity from the switch posts to engine ground (while you move the transmission shift lever), it should always be infinity. When you measure from switch post to switch post, it should be either a short or inifinity, depending on transmission selection.
You can also jumper the connector itself, and see if the backup lights come on, that will tell you that the circuit back to the bulbs is okay. If this blows the fuse, then there is something wrong with either the wiring going back to the bulbs, or perhaps the bulb socket itself is defective and shorting out.
Also I went and got another switch from a junkyard on the way home and put it in and now it just does it when I shift into park, I can crank it and let it sit all day shift between all the gears but when I return to park it blows the fuse.
What DOES work: the car runs, headlights, tail lights, hazards, instrument lights when starting the car, windshield wipers, blinkers, windows, mirrors, auto locks, heater.
I've replaced the dome fuse and radio fuse. Tested the fuses behind the coin drawer and in the engine compartment. All good.
I am at a loss and frustrated due to moving and not having the time right now to trouble shoot correctly. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate the help. Not to mention I have a mini screwdriver that's looking for a new home. Bad memories....
If you replaced the switch, and it is still blowing, then I suspect the problem is not your switch....but let's go thru how you prove it in a little more detail.
The switch is supposed to make a short between it's two posts, when it detects that the transmission is in Reverse. Normally between the posts in any other gear position, there should be infinity resistance between the posts. There should always be infinity resistance between either post and engine ground.
Normally when a switch is bad, you would find that either:
- the posts never short together, thereby never turning your reverse lights on, or
- the posts are always shorted together, thereby your reverse lights are always on
You don't have either of those symptoms, and either of those symptoms wouldn't blow the fuse.
It is less likely, that your switch is failing by one of the posts being shorted to engine block ground. The way you would test for this, is to check the resistance from the posts to ground (one ohmmeter probe on the engine block, one ohmmeter proble on the switch post). . You should get infinite resistance from either post to ground, making no difference what gear it was in. If by some chance you do have resistance to ground, then replace your switch.
Another way that you could prove that the switch was NOT the problem, and the problem was either in the wiring or the bulb socket, or the bulb......is to bypass the switch completely. If you took your wire connector plug off of the switch, and put a paper clip between the two connectors, it would act just like the switch is supposed to act and supply power to the reverse lights. The lights would 'think' that the car was in reverse, and should turn on when you jumper the connector. If your reverse lights turn on and work fine, and don't blow the fuse, then the problem points back to the switch being bad with a short to ground. If the fuse still blows, then your problem is not the switch, and it's back to suspecting a downstream problem of either the wiring or a bad socket.
Since you've replaced the switch and still are blowing a fuse, it appears that the problem is downstream.
You say you've checked the wiring where it flexes and see no wire rubbing/insulating chafeing, or shorting, but I'd suggest you look again very closely. If no problem found, then you need to move to the reverse light sockets. Take them all apart, and look for corrosion or wear that would cause the power wire coming from the switch up the engine compartment, to somehow be grounding out to metal ground, or another wire. With the reverse light bulbs out of the sockets, and the sockets hanging free so they aren't touching anything, try shorting out the switch connector again to see if the fuse is still blowing. If it still blows, then the problem is in the wiring. If the fuse doesn't blow anymore, then the problem is somewhere in those sockets that you have disassembled.
HOPE that is your problem, else you could have blown out your integration relay which will be more expensive to replace.
Let me know if the fuse fixed your problem.
Thanks for the reply. OK.., so what/where is the integration relay? When you say "expensive", what are we talkin' here?
I replaced the 20A fuse ~ no go. By the way, it wasn't blown.
I'm putting the screw driver on Ebay to raise funds...
It's called an integrated relay, but it's more of a set of transitors and 'integrated circuits', than an old technology coil 'relay' like is used in other areas of the vehicle which you would hear clicking and unclicking.
But first....please verify that your dome light works when you move the switch to 'on' position. It has three positions. always on, always off, or controlled by the integrated relay (which has input from door switches, etc). If you can get the dome light to work in the ON position, then you know your 20A fuse is good and working correctly, and the problem is the integrated relay. "OR" there is some other power feed to the IC that it isn't getting. Would need to look at this further.
If your dome light doesn't work in the always on position, then we need to troubleshoot why it's not getting the voltage from the 20A dome fuse.
Dome light does not work in the on position. Tried 2 new bulbs (no screwdriver this time). Tried it with key in ignition turned in different positions and tried it with the vehicle running..... Makes you want to go hmmmmmmm.....
All of those are fed from the same 20A dome fuse.
If none of those are working, then it points back to the 20A dome fuse being bad (or possibly a larger fuse upstream of that dome fuse), and it would be helpful if you had a combination voltmeter/ohmmeter. Do you have one of those, or can you borrow one, or buy a cheap one at Radio Shack or Auto Parts chain. Should be about 10-15 bucks, either analog meter, or digital LCD would be fine.
But first tell me whether those other lights are working or not. Key does not have to be in the ignition. That circuit is powered all the time from the battery, just like the horn fuse and hazard light fuses (and others). Actually, please verify that the horn and hazard lights do work.
I have a multimeter and I'm ready to use it. Onward and upward!
The trunk light is also powered by the dome fuse circuit, and both your dome light and trunk light are out, which makes it look like the dome fuse is blown.
The dome fuse is up in the junction box in the engine compartment behind the drivers headlight. Lets make sure you are checking the right fuse. There are three columns of small fuses.
The first column is 15A EFI, and 15A Horn.
The second column is 7.5A OBD, 10A Hazard, 20A Dome, 15A*1, and 15A*2
The thrid column is 7.5A Alt-S, 30A AM2, 15A ECU-B, and a pin
Pull the 20A Dome fuse.
Check the dome fuse with the ohmmeter, it should be zero resistance.
WIth the DC voltmeter setting, put the - lead on engine block or battery - post, and with the + lead verify that one of the connectors where the fuse plugs in, has approximately +13volts on it.
Replace the fuse, if blown.
If everything is okay there (voltage in the fuse socket, and confirmed good fuse), then leave the fuse out and go disassemble the dome light from the ceiling. You'll need to be getting to the wires that are feeding the dome light. You should find three wires going to the dome light. The power feed coming from the fuse which would have 13 volts on it (if the fuse was plugged in), a wire which goes to ground and completes the circuit, and a wire coming from the integration relay.
Inspect the wiring and connections, to see if any wires are broken off, corroded, or burnt. Inspect the always on, always off, integrated relay switch action, to see if evrything looks normal and nothing looks bent or broken.
Let me know what you find with all of these steps.
Fuse measured with ohmmeter = good
DC voltage in dome fuse socket = 0, zero, nada, zilch
Since I know the hazards work, I did the same test on that socket. Result = fuse good, fuse socket = 12.8v
Next step?
As mentioned before, that dome fuse is fed from the same electrical buss in that fuse box as the hazard lights. Since those work, you know that fuse block has power to it....and therefore the problem is internal to the fuse block itself. You may try to see if you can unplug and replug all of the fuses and connectors on the front and backside of that block. Disconnect the battery first. Maybe there is corrosion or something that is complicating this. Look at spades in all of the connectors, to see if there is anything that looks burnt, melted, corroded, etc.
Thanks to you and taking me step by step and KISS (keep it simple silly), I started thinking that way.
I downloaded the electrical schematics of the car and found the inner circuit wiring to J/B #2. On the schematic, there is a "short pin" in direct line with the 20A dome fuse and the 15A ECU-B fuse (I don't know what that controls, yet, oh well.)
Then on the topical diagram of J/B #2, it shows the "short pin" located below the EBU fuse. There is no amperage indicated, just a box that says "short pin". So, I checked the fuse box on my car and sure enough, there's a 7.5A fuse there. It is NOT listed on the inside of the fuse box top! I pulled it, it was blown, replaced it and TAH-DAH! Everything works.
Thank you SO much for all your help Kiawah! I think I see a mini screwdriver in your future
You need to change out that 7.5A fuse. It is supposed to be a little wire, but what you could do is make it at least a 25 or 30A fuse. That way the correct fuse will blow first (ie, the Dome fuse) the next time.
Errr.....I'll pass on the screwdriver....thanks anyhow. Sounds too dangerous for my hands!
To determine exactly which of the two, you need to use a digital voltmeter to measure the voltage at the motor connector. If you have voltage, but no motor movement, then the motor is bad. If you have no voltage, then the switch is bad.
You can pick up an inexpensive voltmeter/ohmmeter for 10-20 bucks at a radio shack or auto parts chain.
the drivers side lubar support pump has quit funtioning
I need to find the fuse for it and the wiring path too it
a conncetor may havecome apart
any helpavailable?
And the power to the seat goes thru a connector directly under the seat....easy to get to.
I have the same problem with my camry. How did you solve this problem with your car?
But have you checked your fuses, particularly the 10A Panel fuse?
The automatic locks no longer work and the horn is almost but not completely silent. The door-dinger still works fine and the dash lights seem OK but very weak, and does the clock. Tried the AC while the ignition key was turned on and it is very, very weak.
If it were dirty battery cable leads then I thought that the jump would have solved it since the cables go on the outside of the leads.
No lose wires were readily apparent and I can't think of any particular fuse to check that would cause all these symptoms. Any ideas on what to check would be much appreciated.
I think if you watch the battery voltage when you try to start, you will see it drop way below 14 volts.
So the first thing to do in identifying and fixing these problems is to make sure the bulbs are all good and working correctly. Then if that hasn't fixed the problem, replace the flasher.
Get help and have someone put on the brake lights, the running lights (front and back), and the brake lights and running lights in combination to make sure all bulbs are working correctly, and have the correct brightness.
Common failures are corrosion in the socket providing high or no electrical resistance, or shorting; a bulb with a broken filament not working at all, or a dual filament bulb with one of the filaments broken and cross shorting internally to the other circuit. For instance, you apply the brake providing power to the brake circuit, and the bulb filament shorting causes all of the running lights to turn on. Or turning on the running lights, causes the brake circuit to light up.
If the bulbs are all working correctly and your blinker is still not working correctly, then replace the blinker. It's in a small relay junction box, in the drivers side foot well, on the left side.
what are the running lights? yeah, it freezes when i have the my foot on the brake. how can i check if the bulbs are working? or replace the blinker?
So did I get a new symptom reported here? The flasher blinks okay, but when you put on your brakes the flasher freezes and stops blinking?
If so, sounds like a bad bulb.
"The flasher blinks okay, but when you put on your brakes the flasher freezes and stops blinking?"
my blinkers sometimes automatically freezes right when i turn on the blinkers. usually when when it works and im at a full stop it freezes. for example: im getting ready for a right turn it freezes sometimes when i dont even have my foot on the brake, it just freezes. and im waiting for the turn and im fully stopped it flashes for like 3 seconds and it freezes. and i keep on turn it on and off till it blinks.
Are the working correctly, or are any burnt out, or are any too dim, or too bright?
............waiting on your investigation of the bulbs................
can you please tell me one more time how do check the bulbs if they are working correctly. please tell me exactly what do you want me to do to check the bulbs. sorry im not sure if you told me what to do, i just want to make sure im doing what you want me to do. thanks again.
A number of bulbs actually have two filaments inside them, a bright filament, and a dim filament. Many weird problems can occur when one of these filaments break and short across the other filament.
You are going to check from the simplest operation, to the most complex operation, looking for the first clue/symptom that something isn't working correctly.
1.) Check that the brake lights work, and only turn on the high intensity brake light filaments in the back. Have someone apply the brakes and hold them on. Walk around the car and make sure that the front running lights are OFF. Make sure that the brake lights in the back are ON. Make sure that the intensity of the bulbs in the back are the same, and HIGH. Turn brake lights OFF.
2.) Next have your helper turn ON the running lights only, no brakes. Walk around your car and observe the bulbs. Make sure that all four corners have lights on, but they are DIM.
3.) With the running lights still ON, next have your helper slowly pump the brakes on and off, while you walk around the car and observe. In the back, you should see that the lights are DIM (with the same intensity from left to right), and then become BRIGHT (with the same intensity from left to right). In the front, you should observe that the lights are DIM all of the time, and do not change intensity when the brake is applied or released.
4,) With the running lights turned OFF, and the brakes OFF, now turn the left turn signal ON. Walk around the car and observe. The front left signal should blink BRIGHT, nothing happening on the front right. the left rear should blink BRIGHT, nothing happening on the rear right. Now turn the right turn signal ON, observe for correct operation of the right turn signal. Note intensity of bulbs, they should be BRIGHT, not DIM when on.
5.) Next observe what happens when your helper applies the brakes (and holds them ON), while the left turn signal is ON. Left front should blink brightly. Left rear should blink brightly. Right rear should be ON BRIGHT all of the time. Right front should be nothing. Check for similar operation when the turn signal is turned on for the right.
6.) Now check what happens when the running lights are ON, the brake lights are ON and held on, and the left turn signal is ON. Front left should be DIM, and blink BRIGHT. Front right should be always DIM. Rear left should be DIM< and blink BRIGHT. Rear right should be always BRIGHT.
Tell me what you observe in each step.
step 2.) all 4 corners are dim. good.
step 3.) i wasnt able to do that because had no helper
step 4.) all blinkers are good, light up bright. didnt freeze at anytime.
step 5.) blinking was good/normal/bright. didnt freeze at anytime.
step 6.) this is when the freezing begins. i turned on the left blinker, it blinks for a time couple of times then it freezes; then i turn it off then i turn on and it freezes and it doesnt even blink once, then i turn it off again, turn it on again then it starts blinking good then eventually it freezes. same goes for the right blinker. but when i turned on the right blinker is freezes right away, not even one blink.
btw, my hazard light freezes right away too. it doesnt even blink once.
tell me what you think. thanks alot.
But I need also to verify something. If you didn't have a helper to do step#3, how were you able to tell me the results of steps 5 and 6?
Any one have any ideas?
Can you verify that the battery voltage, with the engine off, is sitting at around 13volts. Most probably it's okay, but you may have a battery that is low or your alternator has a problem and isn't charging up your battery.
When they replaced the battery, did they plug in a temporary battery supply to the engine computer to keep it's brains intact? Most typical would plug something under the dash.
I just replaced my battery 2 weeks ago, and didn't have any problems at all.
steps 5 and 6 i used a piece of wood. sorry i forgot to tell you about that.
thanks.
At this point I am thinking the timing with the battery replacement is simply a coincidence.
Any more thoughts?