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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi all. I am reasonably handy with cars but this ones got me stumped. a couple months ago as I posted here I started my 99 camry with 130k and auto tranny, put it in reverse and the chk engine light came on and the reverse lights would not go off as well as the dash only reading that the car is in R no matter what gear I am in....that went away on the way to the mechanic of course. This morning all the gauges stopped working as well as the power windows when the car was shifted. I looked at it and found a blown 10A gauge cluster fuse blown. replaced it and it blew as soon as I shifted into reverse. I disconnected the Brake light switch at the pedal, replaced the fuse and overode the shift lockout and put it into gear without incident...any suggestions? by the way my reverse lights do not work....Ryan
  • beef2112beef2112 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Camry and all the windows in the car won't work and they all are down so I have to put a tarp over the whole car everyday. Now I took it to a dealer and he said he thought maybe the wires on the door might be split. So I checked them and two of them were split, so I spliced the wires but still I can't wind the windows up. I also checked all the fuses and they are ok. If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. Also if anyone knows the electrical scheme for this make and model I would appreciate that too. Im thinking it had to do with those wires that were split somehow but I dont know what I am missing. I can use any info you may have.
  • grant2grant2 Member Posts: 30
    How can one replace the dashboard instrument panel light bulbs? This is for a 2000 Camry LE. Dealer said they'd charge $175.
  • jeff50jeff50 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 camry and the rear passenger side window will go down, but in order for it to go up, you need to put it up with the switch on the drivers door. This is SUPER ANNOYING, and i would like to know if anyone has any ideas on how to fix it. thanks
  • bperricobperrico Member Posts: 13
    For some reason the digital clock no longer shows on the dashboard of my 2001 Camry I checked the fuse box under the hood and didn't see a designated fuse for the clock.Is there any other fuse box location that might have the fuse for the clock?
  • jerdjenjerdjen Member Posts: 1
    I just figured this out with my own car. The fuse for the digital clock is behind the little pop-out storage drawer to the left of the steering wheel. There is a map of the fuses on the back of the drawer. The 15 amp fuse that is labeled Cig is the one that also goes to the clock.
  • fixallfixall Member Posts: 3
    hi this is my 1st time on this forum .I think this is great stuff. im a mechanic in all areas i'm trying to find out if anybody has ever experianced a headlight problem in these early camry's .The problem is that when i turn on the headlights only the marker and taillights come on.I dont have a signal power to the relay only one terminal of the relay is hot . its at least a 10ga wire so im pretty sure thats the supply power im thinking my problem may be in the headlight switch located on the steering column wich is also the turnsignal switch as it stands now im having to put a jumper wire across the relay socket terminals . iwas going to put a toggle swich temporarily thats just not the way o fix it i'd just like to get to the source of the issue.i could really earn some browny points with the little woman if i could fix this with the quickness.you know what they say "the mechanics car is the last to get worked on " and besides that i'm running out of butt for the wife to chew on cus she's been chewin for a while now .
  • boomboxjoeboomboxjoe Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2001 camry which blowes the cig, clock fuse when i step on the breaks the rear light failure light censor comes on at this point on the dash. when I replaced the 15A fuse ( hidden behind the change dish) The clock and cig start to work again but when as soon i step on the breaks it blowes my cig,clock & mirrior 15a fuse again plus the the light failure censor comes back on. I measured the Ohms of the break lights and one of them reads 15.0 the other 3.5 could this create a amperage surge to the cig,clock and mirror 15A fuse.... Does this make sence since the breaklights are on a diffrent fuse ? Could my problem be the break light switch.... Thanks in advance for any help.....
  • boomboxjoeboomboxjoe Member Posts: 2
    I figured it out.....My 4 year old stuck a dime in the cig lighter socket it fits perfect and fluch to the back....this is why i kept blowing fuses on the cig,mirror and clock. The rear light failure was not in the tail lights but rather in the light just below the back glass called the upper brake light signal....thanks to this website i atleast was able to start trouble shooting and fix it w/o being banged out at the dealer for a short circuit inwhich in ny they can say it took them ????? amount of hours...boy im happy...:)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Heh, glad you got it figured out! Four year olds - gotta love 'em!! ;)
  • tcnptcnp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 XLE Camry with just over 4000 miles. I had noticed that the radio would mute when changing between modes for minutes on end and that when I was listening to satellite, the sound would go in and out, sort of like a speaker was going (but this only happened when listening to satellite). Then just once, there was this horrible screaching sound, like a piercing smoke alarm, that happened while I was driving. It only lasted bout 7 seconds or so and it stopped. I took it to the dealer, and they could find none of these problems, so they put in a brand new radio. Yesterday, I was driving and there was a horrible crackling noise and loud piercing noise that sounded like a speaker was blowing out. I turned off the radio but the sound didn't stop, and it kept getting louder. I drove straight to the dealer where I shut the car off and the noise continued! Has anyone had this problem or know of any possible reason that this could be happening?
  • bperricobperrico Member Posts: 13
    How do you remove the fuse for the clock behind the change holder? Does it just pull straight out? I have tried that with a pair of hemostats but it does budge I don't want to break anything can I use pliers and just use a little more power?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I assume this one of the smallest fuse types. If so, there's a handy puller (white) in the fusebox under the hood on the driver's side. You can use this to extract the fuse. See your owner's manual if you're unsure of the location.

    All fuses pull straight out, btw.
  • bperricobperrico Member Posts: 13
    Wel;l checked the fuse and it doesn't looked burned out but I will get a replacement tomorrow and see what happens. As I understand it the fuse is for both the clock and cigarette lighter but not sure. I did try the lighter and it does work.I am hopeful that it doesn't mean the clock need to be replaced.There is no way I am going to pay $150 for a clock then have it installed.I may need to go back to wearing a watch. :cry:
  • ltlnichltlnich Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1999 Toyota Camry.. A couple weeks ago my tail light fuse blew, I replaced it and it blew one more time after that... In the past two days my gauge fuse has popped everytime I put the car in reverse.... today I notice a huge amount of corrosion on my battery, cleaned most of it off with the baking soda solution... tonight while driving home I notice my windshield wipers get very sluggish, this is while my fuse was popped, I pulled in to get gas replaced my fuse and after I filled up, I tried to turn on my car only to get the clicking sound so I needed a jump start, I went home everything was working properly only to back up into my parking space and pop the fuse again.... anyone have a clue on what I should be looking at, I'm clueless about all this stuff.... and it's christmas time so I don't have a pot to piss in.... sooo I'm looking hopefully for a cheap easy solution.... I can tell you that the back lights (the ones on the truck) do not work I am assuming I have to replace those bulbs.... please help
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like your battery is dead. You can go to one of the local auto parts stores (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc), and they'll do a free battery and alternator test for you.
  • camryridercamryrider Member Posts: 3
    hi have a 2001 camry i need help to find a fuse of the A/C interior lights i know where the fuse box are the one in the inside in the outside under the hood where is it and which one cause i know that one fuse can go to several things oh also i cant find the light to the cigarette lighter please help :confuse:
  • artalaskaartalaska Member Posts: 1
    Automatic shoulder belt (driver side only) quit working and is stuck in the forward, released position. Door plunger detent switch still operates and controls the dome light. The passenger side automatic shoulder belt still operates and is tracking normally. No auditory sounds from the motor nor the track channel when the ignition is activated while doors closed. Fuses look fine. Thanks for the help, ">conFUSEd
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Unfortunately, it's probably time to replace the belt and motor. This is a 1987-91, correct, so it's at least 15 years old.

    At least you can (and should) use the separate lap belt in the meantime.
  • smcallistersmcallister Member Posts: 1
    Having the same problem w/ a 1995 Camry. When I shift to reverse, I blow the fuse and that kills my instruments, heater, and then electronic window controls. If it's a manual transmission, look into switching the Transmission Reverse Switch which is located on the front / top of the transmission case on the driver side (of the 1995 at least). This switch is activated when you shift into reverse and then activates the reverse light. I have other electrical problems with my reverse fuse system I believe, but this switch may help you and is a $40 part and easily swithced out by yourself. If automatic, the part is more expensive and a whole sensor thing (ie $350 +). Good luck. Also, don't be tempted to put in a higher amp fuse in the slot.
  • redjarredjar Member Posts: 1
    The other night I parked our 93 Camry then a little later my wife tried to start it. It would crank freely, but it did nor fire. later I found that the 30-Amp fuse at Am-2 was blown. I replaced it and current regersted on both sides of the fuse until I turned the switch on. Does any one out there have any answers to this problem and also what components this fuse supplies. thank you
    redjar
  • raeoraeo Member Posts: 1
    Three hours after I pulled my Camry in the garage and turned off the ignition I went back to the garage only to find the car making a clicking noise and the side lights flashing. Thinking it must be my keyless security I got my keys and pushed the buttons to find they weren't working. I turned the ignition on in the car and it did not start but....the clicking noise and flashing lights did stop. When I turned the ignition back off the noise and lights started back up. I realized the same thing happened when I turned on the headlight switch (although the lights did not go on) or used any other electrical part. The noise and lights would stop. I traced the clicking noise to the relay and fuse box. There was also a clicking noise coming from a part that I cannot identify but it looks like a fan and has a cap over the middle (noise coming from behind the cap) and is on the passenger side of the car (there are two of these fan type things). I tried to unhook the battery cable but it was on too tight so I hooked up a battery charger to the cable and plugged in the charger. When I did this the horns started honking so I rapidly unplugged it(10pm at night and I didn't want to wake the neighbors).Although I know nothing about vehicles I can't stop thinking that it is something relatively minor and I hate to have it towed if I can at least start it myself. Anyone have any advice? Thanks. Img
  • dprudhommedprudhomme Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 camry that is blowing the dome ligt fuse. does anyone have any idea as to where the short might be or what the cause is?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might drop the dome light and look for a pinched wire or some burned area on the metal of the light itself. If it's a real "short" it should blow the fuse even with the bulb out.
  • chinhofive0chinhofive0 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a replacement reverse light switch. A regular socket won't fit, since the switch has 2 wires coming out of the side. An open-end wrench won't fit because the switch is kind of recessed into the tranny. Do I need a special tool? Help? Sorry, I have a manual '84 Supra.
  • raystargazerraystargazer Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1996 camry and I fear this may be the issue as well. Before I get crazy though, can you or anyone please tell me how to get the dome light out? I've tried a bunch of stuff including prying with a small screwdriver (which made marks on the plastic). Any help would be appreciated.

    ray.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sometimes you can pop just the lens part out and then you'll see screws to remove the entire assembly.
  • tmconestmcones Member Posts: 1
    Had the exact same problem show up in my '93 camry last night. And I have no idea where to go with it. If you find out anything do please let us know. Thanks!
  • bms611bms611 Member Posts: 4
    I was running a tire inflator off my cigarette lighter (probably not a great thing to have done in retrospect) and all was great for about 10 minutes, then it just quit. I suspected a blown fuse, but the fuse showed good. Also, according to the chart, the radio is on the same fuse, and it works.

    I'm guessing I just burnt out the lighter part, or there's a fusible link someplace that I don't know about that just serves the lighter.

    Does anybody know if there's a fusible link, or does anybody know if it's possible to just blow out the lighter?

    Thanks.
  • 07xle07xle Member Posts: 177
    Like, have you considered the inflator is bad???
  • bms611bms611 Member Posts: 4
    No--I forgot to mention, no other accessories work when plugged into the lighter (phone chargers, radar detector)
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What year, model, and trim?
  • bms611bms611 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry--new to these forums, so forgot to include basics.

    '95 Camry LE
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Looks like the power feed is from the ignition key accessory position, thru a 15A fuse (fuse position#8), and then to the radio and lighter. If the radio works (assuming it's factory radio and nobody has rewired it to a different power feed), then you know the fuse is good, and it must be the wire going down to the lighter. You'll have to pull the wire off the back of the lighter, and check it for power. If it has power (with the accessory key position ON of course), then your lighter itself is bad. If no power, then your going to have to backtrack up the wire to where it splits off with the radio. Hoping the correct fuse size was in (15A), so that your wiring isn't burnt.
  • bms611bms611 Member Posts: 4
    Both the user manual and the fuse diagram next to the fuse box (the inside one below the instrument panel) show the lighter sharing the circuit with the radio. However, I will check as you suggest. Thank you for your time.
  • vecodoxvecodox Member Posts: 2
    Please help if you know. I have no idea why all my door locks and windows not working. It does not have power to the main console on the driver side and neither door can control the power windows up or down, lock or unlock the door. I do check all the fuse boxes and none of them label "WINDOWS/DOOR LOCK"? So where is the fuse to check??? Is there an expert about 95 Toyota Camry out there can help solving this problem. Thanks in advance.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The electrical diagrams and diagnostic table, suggests to check:
    - Alt H - Fuse
    - P/V11 M -Fuse
    - Wiring Harness

    for the symptoms no window power, with also no door lock power.

    Good luck
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Should also have told you were they are: The Alt H is the main 100A fuse up in the engine compartment, the M-Fuse is on the Junction Block#1 under the dash. Wiring could be anywhere of course, but I would typically look where the cable flex's on the drivers door when you open it. Usually a wiring flex problem starts surfacing as intermittently working.
  • docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    Hello. Driving down the highway today and I suddenly lost ALL electrical power. The engine still ran until I got home. I have hazard lights, dome light, door lights and headlights. I have NO gauges whatsoever, no signals, no AC, no blower fan or rear defog, no radio or glove box light and the engine will not turn over. It sounded like a dead battery but I'm getting the odd electrical system. I disconnected the battery, cleaned the posts etc and hooked it back up. Still nothing. It's a 1993 Camry LE 4 cyl.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sheez...what's going on with the Alt-H fuses today. Check the 100A fuse, under the hood, on top of the Left-Front wheel. Your headlights work, and are on the circuit before that fuse, everything else that you list not working are after that fuse.

    If it is bad, and you replace it....and then it blows again....get your car to the local AutoParts store to do a free battery and alternator check. Your alternator might be bad.
  • docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    WOW you're fast. I'll do that asap and let you know. Thank you
  • docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    I popped open the case top on the LH wheel well and found the 100 amp fuse. The clear plastic cover on top was off. Could this have popped off previously and allowing moisture to get in? Also, I found out the hard way that the fuse is a bolt in type. Any suggestions as to how I get the relay unit out to access the 100 amp fuse mounting bolt. In advance.....thanks again. docholiday2 (aka Lawrence)
  • vecodoxvecodox Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I found those blew fuses are hide under my 95 Camry dash and replace them. Thanks a lot to "Kiawah"
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Here's a high level of main power feed

    Generation3-MainPower
  • docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    Can anyone help? I'm at my wits end here. I took out the battery and was able to get the bottom cover off the relay box on the left wheel well. The fuse I need to replace is a bolt on type. Can anyone tell me how to get the fuse out. I'll never get a wrench in there. :(
  • docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    Kudos to "Kiawah". I finally figured out how to get the fuse out. Replaced it and the car is running. Thanks for the tip, you saved me a few bucks. While I was at it I was checking out the other fuses and there was a 15 amp fuse blown. When I brought the car from California to Calgary, it had to have daytime lights installed. They worked for a while then they went out. The Toyota dealer replaced the relay but the left headlight was much dimmer than the right. They spent 3 hours trying to figure it out. They didn't even check the fuses. Once I replaced the 15 amp....all the lights work. Thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    docholiday2 & vecodox

    Thanks, glad you were able to fix the problems.
  • docholiday2docholiday2 Member Posts: 10
    Hi "kiawah" I know I already thanked you for the fuse help......but since it was replaced my air bag light comes on and STAYS on. It used to, before the ALT H fuse fiasco, come on and go off in about 10 seconds. The manual says to take to Toyota immediately. The Air Bag fuse is a 60 amp fuse right beside the ALT H fuse. It looks fine to me. Is it possible I could have damaged it during the 100 amp fuse replacement? :cry:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'm travelling and don't have access to any of the manuals, so will be shooting in the dark here. Is it the airbag or ABS light that is on? If I remember correctly from the last time I looked at this, the 60Amp was for the ABS, and that was downstream of the 100Amp fuse.

    I should be back Thursday, so can look at the schematics then, and see what the airbag circuitry looks like, and where that is fused.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Doc,

    As I thought, it doesn't appear to have anything to do with the 60Amp fuse.

    If it is your SRS airbag light that stays on, then it is reporting that it has had a failure. You will need to have the failure code(s) read from the SRS unit, or read them yourself if you are real technically inclined. Depending on the code read, it will point to one of the SRS sensors, or it could be a 'normal' code. That normal code indicates that there has been a voltage problem, and indicates to check your battery and charging system. There is a way to clear the codes, but entails jumpering two pins in the cabling, with a specific timing sequence.

    Couple things to probably consider. If you are very comfortable that your alternator and battery are good, then it may just be that the main fuse blowing caused a voltage problem which the SRS is now reporting. And if there is nothing else wrong with your power and the SRS unit and sensors, then resetting the SRS is all you need. Would think this is a relatively cheap fix at the Toyota shop.

    Another possibility is you actually have a legitimate SRS failure, in which case you would definitely want the Toytoa shop to fix it as well, in case you are ever in an accident.

    If you are very technically inclined it doesn't look all that difficult to read the codes and reset the light, but this piece of the manual is about 150 pages. Personally I've only once had an airbag problem, and that was on a Chrysler minivan where the coilspring in the steering wheel wire to the airbag went bad (was later recalled, so they picked up the tab).

    If you haven't already had your alternator and battery checked out under load at your local autoparts store (PepBoys, AutoZone, etc), do so. Then I'd recommend taking it in to Toyota to have SRS read and reset, or the SRS unit fixed if that is what is needed. If you are lucky, you'll get away cheap. Make sure you tell them that you had to replace the 100Amp fuse because it was blown. If the code read is 'normal', and they can attribute the code to your loss of the 100Amp fuse trip, then they won't be replacing parts that you don't need.

    Good luck.
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