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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The symptoms lead me to believe that you have a bad dual filament bulb, or some wrong bulbs, however you checking the bulb intensity does not identify a bad bulb.

    There are two totally separate circuits: 1.) the low intensity running lights and 2.) the high intensity brake/turn signals which has the signal flasher as part of that circuit. The only place the circuits get close together is at the bulb itself. The fact that your turn signal flasher works normal except when the running lights are on, tells me that one of the bulbs must be causing the problem. This is actually a fairly common failure where one filament burns out and breaks, and then lays across the other filament and causes a short between the two circuits. Unfortunately, you looking at the bulbs has not validated that a bulb is bad, and/or which bulb it is.

    So if I therefore assume that the bulbs are the correct bulbs, and that they are working correctly, then the only thing left it could be is the flasher itself. That flasher is behind the left kick panel. Sitting in the drivers seat, put your left foot on the floor and slide it to the left until it hits the kick panel on the left. Take that panel off, and there is a relay block behind that. The flasher is the top corner of that relay block. If you take the panel off, and then turn your flasher on, you should be able to feel it clicking when it's working. Replace that flasher.

    I guess it's possible that your flasher is just soo borderline that sometimes it works and other times it doesn't. The only way to prove for certain, is to just replace it.

    If you do replace it and it doesn't fix the problem, you have to go back and look closer at those bulbs. You may have to take the bulbs out of the sockets to physically look at the filaments while they are on. A dual filament bulb only fits in the socket one way. You will notice that the prongs which hold the bulb in the socket are offset and at a different height. That offset cooresponds to an offset in the socket. Also when you look at a bulb, one filament stands up higher in the bulb than the other. This is important to look at to verify the high intensity brightness compared to the low intensity. I still feel that there is something not right with one of those bulbs.
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    alphawolffalphawolff Member Posts: 14
    I see I did not answer all of your questions. No temporary battery supply was plugged in when replacing the battery.

    I ohmed out all of the leads from the ignition coils associated with cylinders 1 and 4. They appeared identical. The only resistance reading I was able to obtain was approximately 390 ohms between pins 3 and 4.

    When I reinstall the ignition coils I intend to switch the ignition coils between cylinders 1 and 4 and see if the error code then follows the coil.

    Any more thoughts?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What error code are you talking about, you didn't indicate an error code in original post.
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    alphawolffalphawolff Member Posts: 14
    I disregarded the error code in my original post as I had not had it read at the auto shop and additionally I thought the computer was confused and still trying to reestablish it's memory. I now believe that the battery replacement and the engine problems were a unrelated coincidence.

    The error code was "P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire". I have replaced all of the spark plugs with the proper irridium type as they were due anyway. The engine is still running rough. I have pulled the #4 and # 1 ignition coil and ohmed them out on the work bench. I can find no difference between them but only got a reading between pins 3 and 4 (390 ohms). I intend to switch the ignition coils when I reinstall them to see if the error moves with the coil.

    I would love to hear any ideas you might have. I apologize for the initial confusion.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    - May want to swap the 15A IGN fuse with another 15A, just to eliminate that as possible cause.

    Check
    - Camshaft sensor resistance is 1400 ohms cold, 1645 hot
    - Crankshaft sensor is 1600 ohms cold, 1890 hot

    - Swap position of coil, to see if the problem moves with the coil.

    Hope ECM is not fried with the jumping / battery replacement.

    If you totally run out of options, you might consider disconnecting the battery again, and then when you reconnect and restart.....do not floor the accelerator, just let it idle for a while.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    when you see replace the flasher, where can i get a new flasher? can you explain what this flasher looks like please?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Auto parts store, see the man behind the counter (Pep Boys, Autozone, NAPA, etc)

    flasher location

    .
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    alphawolffalphawolff Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for the recommendations. I swapped the ignition coils and the problem followed the coil. So I have a new coil on order, should be here this P.M.. I will let you know.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Excellent. Sounds like you're got the problem identified.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i cant seem to find the flasher. that picture didnt really help me. its located on the lower left side of the driver right, behind the panel? well it looks kind of confusing. i guess when i ask for a flasher ill know what it looks like.

    someone told me it might be the relay?
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    alphawolffalphawolff Member Posts: 14
    Coil replaced. Car seems to run fine now. Thanks for your help Kiawah
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Excellent...great job.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    did you get that?

    i bought a flasher at autozone for 10 bucks. but i cant find the place where to put it at. i checked the lower left of the drivers side.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well, can't do anything else but show you the picture of where it's at.

    A suggestion is to turn the blinker on, and follow your ears to where it's clicking. You may be able to feel the flasher clicking as well.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    is the flasher located behind something? but for sure its on the left kick panel of the driver's side right?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Yes, left kick panel
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    the kick panel is that plastic cover right? if yes then i already got to that part. i took off the panel and all i see is wires. should i take a picture?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sorry,
    I don't have the ability to reach thru the internet to your vehicle and do this for you. You may have to take to a mechanic if you can't recognize the flasher on the relay block and swap it out. They may also be required to look closer at the bulb filaments if the new flasher doesn't fix the problem.....I still think you may have a bulb problem somewhere, given the symptoms you describe and when/how it allegedly fails only with the running lights on.
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    aneesha99aneesha99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Camry and the car chargers under the radio and the middle console just stopped working. I hear it may be a fuse but where do I find this fuse box and how do I change the fuses?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That's the 20Amp Power Outlet fuse.

    Lay down on your back, feet hanging out the door opening, with your head under the dash on the drivers side. Buy a replacement fuse at autoparts store, make sure you have the old one with you so you get the right physical size, and amperage.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    btw the way i have a audio system can this be why my blinkers freeze due do to drawing electrical power from battery?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    when im driving in the day time with the running light off my blinker still freeze.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Where are you drawing the current from for the audio system?

    Does your flasher freeze ONLY when the audio system is on?

    Is this a standard typical audio system, or some big amperage drawing mega monster?

    Doe your flasher only have problems when the engine is at low speed idling? If you put in neutral and rev up the engine so the alternator is putting out more power, does the flasher freezing go away?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    it still freezes when im not even playing music.

    im just pushing a total of 620 rms. one amp is a 60 amp and the other amp is a 50 amp.

    "Doe your flasher only have problems when the engine is at low speed idling?"
    - they still freeze at high speeds, even on the freeway.

    "If you put in neutral and rev up the engine so the alternator is putting out more power, does the flasher freezing go away?"
    - havnt tried this yet. i will today. it usually freezes when im on the road driving normally.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Swap the flasher, let's conclude that it either IS, or IS NOT the problem. That's a 5 minute job to do. If you can't figure out where the flasher is on the relay block with the picture provided, get someone technical to help you.

    If it IS, then we're done. If it ISN'T, then we'll check some other things.

    I don't want to get you diverted.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    so where ever is that clicking noise when i use my turn signals, that is where the flasher is located right?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    yes, it IS the flasher that is making the clicking noise
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    guess what! done deal! i found the flasher. it was behind the glove box. it was a pain unscrewing covers to get where i needed to get at. hazard signal and lights work also. havnt drove around and tested out the signal blinkers but im pretty sure they will work because they hazards are working. thanks for your help. ill let know you know hows my blinkers.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You have a 93 Camry, and you say your flasher was behind the glove compartment?

    Are you in the U.S.?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    haha yes! 93 camry. i live in california :]. you thought i lived in canada or something? i appreciate it for your help.
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    armindoarmindo Member Posts: 3
    I have read a lot of the related posts regarding 1996 Camry power window problems, but could not find one quite like my issue. None of my power windows operate, nor does the drivers side door lock control. However, the passenger door lock control works (it locks the rear doors and passenger door, but not the drivers). This tells me that the 10A and 30A fuses are okay...I think. I also find 12V at the master switch connector harness at pins 3, 7 and 8. Pin 3 would be for the door lock, but as I noted the switch does not work. Pins 7 and 8 feed the window switches, none of which work. I thought it might be the Drivers master switch so I replaced it, but still the same issue (used part from Ebay, unless my bad luck and it is bad too). I also tried my best pulling aside the rubber "boot" surrounding the wires passing thru the door and the car body, and did not see any signs of broken wires….but I did not cut off the boot so it was not a 100% visual. Do you think it is a problem with the ground? Any other possibilities?

    FYI….It started as an intermittant problem, that got progressively worse, but now it no longer works at all.

    Thanks
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Let's break this into two pieces, the door locks, and the windows, and work on the door lock first.

    From a door lock perspective, all 4 of the door lock motors are wired together, so when one of them is turned on they should all turn on. The fact that only 3 out of 4 work, tells us that either that door lock motor is bad in the drivers door, or the wiring to it is bad. So I would start there first in trying to figure out this problem.

    The door lock motors are DC, so if voltage is applied one way it will lock, when applied the other way they will unlock. The two wires that go to the door lock motors, are controlled by the transistorized door lock control relay. That door lock control will put either:
    a.) +13 on one line, Grnd on the other line, which will lock the doors, or
    b.) Grnd on one line, +13v on the other line, which will unlock the doors, or
    c.) Grnd on both lines, which will do nothing.

    Start first by unplugging the drivers side door lock, and apply battery voltage directly to the locking motor to lock and unlock it. I suspect the door lock motor will be fine, but you need to verify that the motor works fine and it's not the problem. Then with a voltmeter, check the drivers side plug to see if the socket is getting voltage from the door lock control..... when you turn the passenger lock switch up and down. If the connector isn't getting voltage, then you'll need to trace the wiring back thru the door jamb. You should try it by probing across the connector, but then also probe it from one leg of the connector to ground, and then the other leg of the connector to ground.

    Also observe what voltage the door lock control is putting out when it is telling the motors to lock or unlock. Want to make sure you don't have a bad control relay.

    Please also verify that the 10A Gauge fuse is good.

    Tell me what you find/conclude.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    do you know anything under hood of a 93 camry?

    i was in drive through and i put the gear into "park" and the engine just died (E brake was down). i started the car right back up and it was running good. but when i put it into park again it did the same thing; it did this 2 or 3 times that night. this morning i tried putting it into drive then park it didnt die.

    this mechanic told me he can clean out the "idle", something like that. its by the starter. any clues? thanks.
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Who knows, can't hear it or feel the symptoms, could be anything. Has this vehicle ever had a tuneup in the last millennium? Plugs? Wires? Air Filter, Oil change, fuel/intake cleaner?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    yes it did have a tune up. im not sure if they change the spark plugs. yes oil is good.

    does it have anything to do with the idle being dirty? also i have a small tear on this big black hose, its on the right side of the engine. i should cover that up wit electric tape right?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    'idle' is the low speed rpm's when the engine is running at it's slowest speed. An 'idle' can't be dirty.

    Are you talking about the IAC, Idle Air Control valve?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i think so im not sure. he said something with "idle" in it. a "idle" something. sorry for the inconvenience.

    Idle Air Control valave, what does this look like? what is it for?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    okay i know what it looks like. i looked it up on the internet. yeah im pretty sure that is what he was talking about. he said he clean the inside of it. and it might solve my problems.

    and their is a black hose connected to it right? well their is a slice/hole on the hose. i covered it with electric tape. good idea or what?
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    justlostjustlost Member Posts: 6
    I had similar problem, msg 574. The door lock and key unlock (to unlock all doors), didn't work on drivers side, but worked on passenger side. Windows didn't work from door. I finally had to cut the boot off to see the wires, and did find one broken, and several others w/cracked insulation. Good luck
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Electrical tape won't hold in an engine compartment. If you have a split hose anywhere, replace the hose.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    i put electric tape on it. it seals it good. is it necessary to replace it?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It will only work if you cover it with chewing gum.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    is that a joke? or your being serious?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Doublemint will work, but JuicyFruit is the best. Should take a minimum of about 6 packs of gum, but you have to chew it all of the same time so that the elastic qualities will age and set at the same time. Quantity depends upon how much tape you put on it, so be sure you chew enough to do it all at once. Spread it around the hose evenly. Cover the tape by at least 1/4" beyond the edge of the tape.

    With the underhood engine temperatures and moisture, it should harden better than the hose was brand new.

    If you find that this doesn't hold and you have problems with your vehicle, or you get 'stuck' somewhere, then you can always take the gum off and re-chew it. After the tow home or to the repair garage, then have them replace the hose like you should have done in the first place.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    it is necessary to get this replaced? its just air flowing through the hose.

    can this be the reason why my car died when putting my gear to drive to park?
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    kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't know which hose you are talking about, but you can be assured, that if there was any way that the hose "wasn't needed", Toyota would have found a way to get rid of it long ago. Every $$$$ dollars that they can cut out of manufacturing costs would fall right to the bottom line as profit. With the mass volumes of cars they make, it would be millions of dollars.
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Kiawah is one of our most knowledgeable and most helpful members here. If he tells you the hose needs to be replaced, trust him - it needs to be replaced.
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    okay. i will take a picture and i will upload the picture and i will send you the link. is that okay with you?
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    imupaboveimupabove Member Posts: 67
    true. but i need to make sure were on the same page and he knows which hose im talking about. i will take a picture of it.
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Electrical tape won't hold in an engine compartment. If you have a split hose anywhere, replace the hose. This is from kiawah's post #711.

    I don't know which hose you are talking about, but you can be assured, that if there was any way that the hose "wasn't needed", Toyota would have found a way to get rid of it long ago. This is from kiawah's post #717.

    I'd say kiawah is on your page. You've asked for advice and the advice you've gotten is to replace the hose. I'd take that advice if I were you.
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