Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

imupabove · September 2009

when i disconnect the actuator, how do i supply power to it?

kiawah · September 2009

If you have a spare cigarette adapter, you can use that as it will have both a positive and negative lead.

Another way would be to run wires up to the battery. Connect one black wire to the negative terminal of the battery with a test clip....this will be your ground.

Get a small fuse holder with fuse, and put a long red wire on one end of the fuse holder, and a test clip on the other. Connect the test clip to the positive terminal of the battery....this is your positive 13 volts. So you have battery, then test clip connected to the battery terminal, then fuse holder w/fuse, then long red wire over to the car door.

Take the two wires over to the actuator, being careful not to touch the red wire to either the black wire or the metal of the car. (If you do, it will blow the small fuse you just put in the holder).

Put the voltage directly to the actuator plug as described in previous post.

kiawah · September 2009

Thanks.....it's pretty interesting/challenging at times.

pat · September 2009

I see the challenges. Please feel free to pick and choose where you can help so that you don't let yourself get burnt out. Pace yourself for the long term benefit if you can. You certainly don't have to answer everything thrown at you, but we very much appreciate all that you do.

Thanks again.

krazyrob · September 2009

I got this 97 camry. The 10amp gauge fuse blows out after about five mins of the vehical running. I doesn't matter if the speed sensor is disconnected or the alt is. has any one else heard of something along these lines?

Mr_Shiftright · September 2009

Three Cheers for kiawah!!

kiawah · September 2009

See post #787 this forum, for some possible ideas.

kiawah · September 2009

That cat is screaming......because someone modified their wiring !!

Mr_Shiftright · September 2009

Also notice the lack of teeth from chewing on electrical harnesses!

grzesiek80 · September 2009

I have a problem with my Toyota Camry 2001 V6. Last time charging light came up,and it's on for all the time but alternator works , battery is getting charged. I have no idea what's wrong . Did anyone had similar problem? And how to solve it ?
Thank you.

kiawah · September 2009

Usually a battery or alternator problem.

Take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (Pepboys, Autozone, etc) or dealership. Ask them to do an on vehicle alternator and battery check under load. At the autoparts chains, this is usually a free service. They have a machine which they will connect to your battery and alternator, which will check that the alternator is putting out the correct maximum amount of current at the right voltage, and that the battery doesn't have a bad cell and delivers the power it is supposed to.

Also inspect your battery terminals for corrosion, and that they are tight.

pathfind2003 · September 2009

Reference Post #787 - Quote of problem

"After my car sit all day at work, I got in it to drive home and my power windows didn't work or my dash instruments. Found 10 amp gauge fuse blew after I got home. replaced it and after driving for a few minutes , it blew again. And the battery died after a while and it is affecting the shifting in the trans now. I am sure it's all related by a ground or something. Any ideas? 1999 Camry CE with 145,000."

I have the same problem - 95 Toyota Camry SE. Except the first fuse melted and didn't blow - I removed the melted fuse and I think the fuse slot is fried. Before I start going through all the "Excellent" troubleshooting you have outlined, should I replace the fuse box. I haven't replaced it because I wanted to find the real problem first, but I fear it will be difficult to find the problem without closing the circuit at the fuse. Where should I start?

kiawah · September 2009

It would be difficult to replace the fuse box. Why is it exactly that you believe the fuse box is bad? Do you think you could put another fuse in the slot as replacement?

pathfind2003 · September 2009

Well, the slot for the fuse also melted and deformed. Also, even though the fuse wasn't blown, the circuit opened up. I assumed it was because the slot was fried. Should I try and reposition the slot (move the connector back into position) and replace the fuse? Then trouble shot from there. Or should I connect wire into the connectors and use an inline fuse - so if it melts again - it melts the inline fuse instead of the box?

kohler1 · September 2009

i just put a new bosch universal oxygen sensor on my 2002 camry, unfortunately check light came on, i made sure the colors matched properly ( 2 whites to 2 blacks, 1 white to 1 gray, 1 black to 1 blue ) . Any help will be kindly appreciated, thanks in advance.

pathfind2003 · September 2009

Of course, I guess I should test the fuse slot to see if it is good, eh?

kiawah · September 2009

I would suspect it is good, but if you want to check you can check is with a DC voltmeter, plus probe in the fuse slot, negative probe on a piece of metal frame somewhere.

One of the legs where the fuse plugs in should have 13 volts on it (assuming the battery is good), and the other should have 0 volts.

pathfind2003 · September 2009

Thanks!! I will get the fuse working again and go from there. I avoided putting another fuse in because it melted, but the more I avoid it, the more unnecessary work I do.
You are awesome - kiawah!! Thanks again@

pathfind2003 · September 2009

Kiawah,

Tested the fuse slot, it was good, a new fuse wouldn't go in because it was deformed - I inserted two blades connected to an inline fuse. I began your check list starting with the trunk. There they were - bare,melted wires. I cut, cleaned, reconnected and put some extra protection on them. Started the car and drove for about 15 minutes. Everything seems to check out. Fuse wasn't warm, no symptoms. I must say - you seem to know your Toyota's very well. I thank you for all your help. I have a few things to work on, so I hope to talk to you a little more.

Let me know where to send a six pack, bottle of whiskey, my thanks on the back of a $20 bill, whatever. You saved me days of aimless toil and money. You're great - thanks again!!

kiawah · September 2009

Super, congrats.....glad it worked out. I think the fix you did with the inline fuse should work just fine, rather than trying to replace the fuseblock. Hard to imagine that it actually melted before blowing the fuse...I don't understand that. (Unless this was a used car, somebody before you had the blowing fuse problem, couldn't figure out what was wrong, so put a higher fuse that supposed to be, and hence the fuse never tripped when it should have).

Hope you soldered the trunk wires, or used some permanent wire connector....given that they will flex back there and work loose if you just twisted wire and put tape on it.

Next time you walk past a charity of your choice at Christmas, throw an extra buck in their bucket.

pathfind2003 · October 2009

The fuse never actually blew - it melted and one of the blades popped out. It was a red fuse (that's 10amp isn't it?). Maybe the fuse wasn't seated properly at the same time and the loose connection and extra amps caused heat. But, not enough amps to blow it.

I did use permanent connectors. I don't like tracking down electical problems I already fixed - so I tend to over do repairs.

I will add and extra $50 to the scholarship this year and give extra cash to the food bank this Christmas. I will also help somebody else with their car problem. Thanks, again.

ronl2 · October 2009

The power windows, seat belts, backup lights and gauges will not work on my 1990 Camry. It keeps blowing the 7.5 fuse. I checked wires going to door. Could it be the backup switch on the brake pedal? What is going on here?

pathfind2003 · October 2009

Kiawah has helped many of us to a similar problem. First, you backup light circuit has a wear point in the trunk you may want to check out. My 95 blew a similar fuse (10A though) and screwed everything up (windows, charging system, shifting out of first, etc). I checked the wires that go to the back up lights (in the 95 it was on the drivers side going from the top of the trunk up the hatch. What I found were bare wire and melted insulation at the hinge (that's probably not the right term). This seems to be a common problem. Repair those wires with a permanent connection with lots of protection if they are worn. Then replace your 7.5 A fuse. If that isn't the problem then check out post #787. Good Luck and thanks to Kiawah I have a reliable Camry again!

AND HE BEAT ME TO IT - SEE Post #847

kiawah · October 2009

+1 to pathfind response

Please verify that it is the "Gauge" fuse that you are blowing, and not something else.

simmering1 · October 2009

My 2000 Camry LH headlight was intermittent so when I went to replace the bulb, found the white wire covering and bulb housing connectors melted. Now, there is no power to the headlamp and the fuses are all good. Have checked the wires back 6" and found no additional melting. Advice?

kiawah · October 2009

Can you tell me whether you have daytime running lights, or not. There is different circuitry depending upon whether you have DRL.

There are three fuses in this circuitry, make sure all are good.
- 40A Main
- quantity (2) of 15A Headlight fuses

Also let me know whether you have a little portable DC voltmeter that you would know how to use to check some voltages. We can definitely prove where the problem is if you have one of those. They're about 15 bucks.

If you are asking for advice on the connector, you need to buy a replacement socket, and solder the wires in. Make sure you get the correct wires to the correct socket position. You have a high and a low beam wires, as well as a ground.

wwest · October 2009

Not altogether unusual, especially so if someone has substituded "brighter" aftermarket bulbs in place of the factory recommendation.

55 watt Halogen light bulbs run on the HOT side. If at one time someone was not careful enough at fully seating the connector this is what happens. or you may have simply encountered a factory manufactuering defect, the electrical connection of the socket was somehow compromised.

jessi02 · October 2009

i just got a switch for my power windows on my 92 toyota camry and i cannot get any power through the switch or my sunroof could it be something wrong with the fuse or the power window relay. i cannot even find the window relay

kiawah · October 2009

Check two fuses:

- 10 A Gauge Fuse, and
- 30 A Power Fuse. This 30A is on the fuse block by your left knee, but it is a big fuse over on the right hand side. On the right edge of the fuse block, the top fuse is the Power Fuse.

Let me know what you find.

deedeema · October 2009

I own a 2003Toyota Camry xle. Two lights on my heating system do not come on. Is it a fuse problem or do I need to remove the unit?

kiawah · October 2009

Are you talking about the tiny illumination lights at night, that light up the dash and all of the accessories? Like the lights that illuminate the cigarette lighter, radio, etc?

If you are, this circuit has one fuse that powers all of these lights, so if one is powered they all would be powered. It's the 10A Gauge fuse.

If only one or two are out, then most people would probably just ignore it, otherwise it'll be a trip to the dealership to let them take your dash pieces apart, at whatever their labor rate is.

bmw65 · October 2009

My keyless entry keyfob has decided not to work! After two days at the dealer, during which they were unable to re-program the existing key or a new one, I was able to get it working (though not as well as previously). The doors unlock/lock but none of the lights go on like before; also, I need to be right up on the car for it to work! The remote starter is on the key as well, but I have not been able to get that to work! Any ideas? I should mention the car was hit earlier in the year, however, there was no apparent need for any repairs othyer than body damage.

kiawah · October 2009

Is there a year, make, model, trim for your vehicle?

And is that remote entry and start system a factory unit, or a dealer/other add on?

opgiven · November 2009

i get a code 14 = bad igniter,short in wireing,bad ecm. Q: if i jump the igt wire with the igf wire and bipass the igniter will this mess up the ecm or the ignter ? And yes my head herts from tring to read the wiring diagrams

kiawah · November 2009

The ECM is just the trigger for the igniter. You need the igniter for ignition to work.

I suspect you'd blow the ECM's output to the igniter, if you connected directly to the coil.

alltoyota1 · November 2009

I just noticed that my right headlight stopped working. I didn't even bother to look closely at the bulb before buying a replacement. I just assumed that it was burned out. I replaced the light, and the problem continued. I checked the old bulb with a volt meter and it checked out fine. I checked the 20A fuses, for both left and right lights, and they are both good. There is a relay that I have not checked yet, though I was tempted to swap it out temporarily with a similar but not identical relay in the fuse box. I am wondering if the relay could actually effect just one side rather than two. What else can I check before taking it to the garage?

Thanks,
Chuck

alltoyota1 · November 2009

Problem solved! No comment. LOL

kiawah · November 2009

"No comment" what does that mean? user error?

carguy999 · November 2009

Both the automatic transmission selector switch light in the center console and the driver-side seat warmer switch light in my wife's 2006 Camry XLE have suddenly stopped working. Is it really likely that two separate bulbs have burned out, or could there be a different problem? I'm not anxious to start removing the center console to check the bulbs until I'm sure.

xramfn · November 2009

Update: 99 Camry. Fuse would blow at different times while driving.
After spending alot of time and effort, I took my car to a electric shop for cars. After 2 weeks and 350 dollars they found that after I had the engine rebuilt , they did not secure the wiring harness behing the engine and after driving it for 6 months, which is how long it took for this problem to come up...the wires melted and 3 wires fused together and would rub on the pipe only when I drove the car and hit a bump. So there you have it. Thank you to Kiawah and everyone who tried to help..

jgallant · November 2009

I have had my 2009 TCH for about 6 weeks and have been tracking the gas consumption carefully. The web site (Canadian) says I should get 50 MPG city, combined and highway driving. After 6800 KM (4225MI) I am getting only 40 MPG. I know that the info on the web site is an "estimate" but it shouldn't be 20% out. I don't drive with a heavy foot, in fact I try to get that little "excellent" message every time I shut the car off.
Has anyone experienced poor gas milage like this???

wwest · November 2009

~40 is the best you should expect for pure city driving using regen energy recovery. You should consider yourself luck with FE that good for combined city/hwy.

cdn_tch · November 2009

Posted a reply in Toyota Camry Hybrid MPG-Real World Numbers

See you there...

rxers · November 2009

I got a 1997 Camry and the lights just cut out on me. When I say light the brake (when stepping on them) and the headlights are working. The front corner lights are not coming on and the tail lights are not coming on when I step on the brakes. However, the harzards are working. Must be a fuse, but can't figure out which one (first the under my left foot or the one under the hood) and then which one to replace???

THanks!

camtoy · November 2009

So was the problem the relay if one headlight works? I am dealing with the same issue right headlight is out , I think the relay is good?

dittomusik · December 2009

greetings,
i have been reading through this thread and gotten some good ideas for what to check to solve my problem, however, so far i've not found the solution.

1997 Camry LE (2.2L automatic, no factory "theft deterrent system", but there is an aftermarket alarm system from previous owner).
- the dome light has been intermittent for several years, though i have "fixed" it several times by popping the bulb out and putting it back in, i now realize that something more is happening with that circuit. the trunk light and key "ring light" also don't work.
additionally, yesterday after checking fuses and pulling the dome light fixture out to see if there was immediately obvious wiring or grounding problem, the power door locks stopped working *unless the key is in ACC or ON position*
- the power leg of the 7.5A Dome fuse reads good voltage (and the fuse is good)
- the dome light is not receiving voltage
- the power windows DO work normally
- i have checked the 25A Door, 10A Gauge, and 30A Power fuses - all OK and good voltage on power legs (though i'll probably check them again as soon as it stops raining).

at this point i'm starting to look at the relay integration module, but i also think i haven't exhausted other troubleshooting avenues. even with the Haynes manual's schematic, i can't really get a clear picture of how everything fits together.
suggestions welcome - thanks!

kiawah · December 2009

I think you are on the right path.

The dome fuse feeds the integration relay, which then provides power up to the dome light itself. Your symptoms would suggest a problem w/integration relay.

Your key cylinder light does not work, that is also fed from the same point on the integration relay. Symptom points to problem w/integration relay.

The door locks, have as part of their control circuitry....you guessed it, the integration relay.

Luggage compartment light....you guessed it.

dittomusik · December 2009

thanks for the input kiawah.
a happy ending for this story, yet one with a few twists and turns - unnecessary twists as it turns out.
i did replace the relay integration module (after fetching one from a junkyard and learning the slow way precisely how there are not only 2 little plastic latches that hold it on, but also a hefty socket of connections on the back that doesn't like to let go without substantial persuasion!), but nothing changed.
decided to re-recheck all the fuses that may have anything to do with the problem. after studying the funky diagram on the back of the engine compartment fuse/relay lid, i realized that i had been looking at the wrong fuse! at some point in the past, a 7.5A fuse had been put where a 5A should have been, and a 10A was in the Dome slot. i didn't pay close enough attention to the diagram and therefore was 1 column off, i just looked for the 7.5A fuse.
this is just the kind of lesson that i like to learn every few years. sheesh!

i'm including some pictures here for the benefit of anyone who is going to mess with their integration relay and the following bit of parts info that i learned in my search:
- Camry (models without theft deterrent) integration relay module is interchangable from 1997 - 2000
- part number is 82641-AA010 or 82641-AA020 (both work, AA020 is the updated number, according to Toyota parts - and at the time of writing this, there are 0 (as in none) AA020s available in the USA!). see photo for part number detail.

front of integration relay:

back of integration relay (note the socket near the top, this means the module has to be carefully pryed off):

part number detail:

kiawah · December 2009

ughh,

Somebody switched the fuses...ouch.

Ebay The integration relay, or someone will come along this site and need to buy one at some point. They do fail, and are not the easiest to find.

dittomusik · December 2009

right, eBay is what i was thinking as well.
meanwhile, i had to see what was inside the mysterious relay integration module. here is what i found:

interior electronics of Camry relay integration module (AA010):

Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

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