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That's not true for either of my Camrys ('04 with 4-speed auto and '05 with 5-speed auto). If descending a grade at highway speeds with the cruise control on, the car will remain in top gear. If the grade is steep enough, the car's road speed will increase above the set speed.
ONLY by braking rather firmly will the transmission then downshift into 3rd (for the 4-speed unit) and 4th or 3rd (for the 5-speed unit). Of course, braking cancels the cruise control until the "resume" feature is activated.
... the car will remain in top gear. If the grade is steep enough, the car's road speed will increase above the set speed.
Is it the 2007 DBW model that downshifts? Your models act the way I want a car to do, even when cruise control is "off." I will move the lever to a lower gear if I want the car to downshift, and lose fuel economy in the process.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
So my cruise control downshift statement may, or may not, have been taken from a Toyota or Lexus post.
However today I used my A/C (I haven't used it during these days) and I noticed that the problem came back.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
P0770 - Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
P0773 - Shift Solenoid E Electical
They suggested a new transmission. My daughter took it to a Transmission shop. They tried replacing an external solenoid. Didn't work. They dropped the pan and said there is metal in the fluid. Need to rebuild the transmission. The car runs fine, no shifting problems. He says it has to do with the Torque Converter. Symptoms would be poor gas milage. Said that the external solenoid filled with guck right away. So, is this a common occurance to have a Toyota with less than 100K miles and need a new transmission? I have had Honda's and no problems like this. Will cost $2200, including parts, labor and tax. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
Yet another totally unjustified "pilot error" post. Factory "shill"??
The factory doesn't REQUIRE, nor even recommend, that the ATF be flushed/drained/refilled on my 2001 AWD RX300, EVER...!!
So I rather doubt if the Camry does.
ATF can NEVER, by CAREFUL design, be the initial cause of a transaxle failure. ATF can only contribute once it is contaminated or overheated as a result of some failure mode, design flaw, of the transaxle.
His posts have always been forthright. No matter what the manual says, I think the common wisdom is still to drain and refill the auto tranny fluid at regular intervals, something like 30K to 60K miles. I've already done it once on my '04 Camry (47K miles currently).
His posts have always been forthright.
Agree.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Once the engine warms up and the "worn" compression rings expand to more completely seal the cylinder you will have more "go" power.
How "comfortable" are you that the timing belt was/is properly installed? A few "cogs" off + or - can make a HUGE difference.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
Any insight appreciated!
Any insight appreciated!
Thank you in advance for any suggestions and opinions
But no, now that there is no mechanical connection between the shifter and the transaxle the motor mounts should not have this effect.
This is Automatic Trans Fluid not MTF that I mentioned earlier.
.
Could be an electrical issue (ECM, shift solenoid, etc.).
You need to have the transmission scanned for trouble codes to learn more.
Anyway hard to say from here what's going on, but a code reading should tell something, as should a pressure test. Might be valve body issues as well.
I
1.) Above 45-50 mph the RPM's are too high for the engine speed based on my last Camry (1996) that this car replaces. At 60 mph I am around 3200 RPM. At 70 I'm over 4000 RPM. I am used to 2600-2800 for around 70 mph. It seems that the car will go through all gears normally but the overdrive gear never kicks in.
2.) If I'm at 60 mph (or ANY other speed just for example) and around 3200 RPM and I remove my foot from the accelerator, the engine tachs down immediately to around 1000-1100 (idle speed) and when I want to accelerate or just engage the engine to speed up, the engine revs ups freely until the RPM's meet the point where they engage. It works the same if I allow cruise control to take over.
This car was an engine rebuild by a mechanic so it could be as easy as he just didn't put in the correct ATF so the friction agents aren't working or the whole tranny could just be junk and I can replace it with the one from my old car (235k miles). I'm certainly no mechanic. I'm just going by the posts I have read on here.
Any thoughts or questions to help me hone in on this issue? Should I drain the tranny through the drainplug and just refill with what I KNOW is the correct ATF? I don't want to mess it up more without some guidance. So thank you for any offered.
when i first leave in the car it does fine, but after i come to a stop my car acts like it cannot shift (struggles from 1 to 2 then goes on to 3 & 4 with no problem)
and sometimes won't go at all. will go into drive and reverse
i recently had the radiator replaced and then afterwards i had a day where hit was trying over heat again , thought maybe the water level was too low cause after we topped it off and got it to my mechanic , he could not find anything wrong at all and never did it again until this started to happen with my shifting issue.
any suggestions, cannot get a computer on it to see if it throwing a code
could it be related to the radiator issue or a sensor
was told that i have 3 sensors that could be going bad as well but don't know which one to start with
any help or suggestions are welcome!
I am concerned about a transmission problem.
Any comments.
If the oil level was correct, and now it is high....I would suspect a blown head gasket, allowing radiator fluid to contaminate the oil. Get this looked at pronto.
Please advise.
.
Thanks for your help.
thanks
If it's discolored, personally I'd change it if you haven't done it in say 60K miles. If I remember correctly, if you are in special operating conditions they recommend changing it every 30K miles, but most people don't run in really bad operating conditions on a consistent basis.
If you are not the original owner (and know how hard the prior owners drove it), or drive it hard yourself, then I'd definitely change it.