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Toyota Camry Fuel and Fuel System Questions
Can anyone tell me if the V6 Camry requires premium unleaded?
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I typically use 87 in my 2004 SE V6 (3.3) for normal driving to work and back, without any engine knocking, but I do use higher octane when I'm traveling on long drives. In southern California I like being able to drive/pass slower cars/trucks quickly especially when I'm going up a steep hill.
I changed my FUEL FILTER at about 15k. I bought the part myself at Toyota (I think it was about $20-$35) and installed it myself.
I'm now approaching 45k and I expect I'll do it again as soon as the weather gets warmer (it's 3 degrees here today!).
In order to do this, you need a special wrench called a FLARE NUT WRENCH. DO NOT attempt to do this unless you're using this tool.
You CERTAINLY need to use TWO wrenches simultaneously, but I don't remember if the second one HAD TO BE a flare-nut type.
It probably takes anywhere from 20-60 minutes to do the job, and you should EXPECT that you will have gas leaking out for a few moments.
The most important thing is to make sure that when you're attaching the new filter you get a PROPER SEATING of the nut. If you don't, you'll be in BIG trouble. SO....don't force it and take a very close look to make sure it is going on properly.
I ve bought a 2005 Camry. Is there a maximum speed recommended
for new vehicle fo first 1000 miles or so ?
-Makarand Vaidya
Hope this helps.
Ken
wud probably ve put cruise for extended periods of time.
I wont use it this time then. Got good advice in nick of time !
Thanks again.
-Makarand
Glad I could help and I'm surprised (maybe not) that your sales consultant didn't go over this with you when you picked up your car.
Ken
I did this on a recent trip from VA to IN, since my car only had 600 miles to start. I took 2-lane roads through the mountains of West Virginia.
I'm new to this forum and toyota camry ( i bought it 3 weeks back) i got a used 1996 camry. My question is what is the recommended fuel (octane level) for 1996 camry. i've been trying to look it up on the internet, but it was of no help. I'm currently putting 89. Please advise.
Thank you
Ekta
Ken
When I unbolt the In and Out lines will gas spurt out? How do I prevent gas from streaming out?
Can I unbolt the In line from the engine bay or is it usually accessed from under the car? The Out line looks easily accessible from the top of the engine bay.
I rather not go to a garage or dealer for this fuel filter change.
Thanks in advance for any step by step instructions or advice. John
I took it in to a dealership years ago (I bought it used and it was out of warranty) and was given the "service bulletin" regarding it and told that there was nothing I could do (recommended to change gas brands, which I have done with no success).
Most will say it is the catalytic converter, but I know this is a common problem with Toyotas (the service bulletin confirmed it) and the converter is "too efficient". A buddy bought a new Lexus SUV a few years ago and noticed the same issue. The Dealer replaced the converter with a "less efficient" one rather than take the SUV back.
My question is ... is there a solution to my problem? I don't mind replacing the converter if it resolves it but I'm not sure it will. My car was originally built for California and I know they have higher emission standards. I've had a shop adjust and replace other emission parts but no help.
I really like the Toyota -- any thoughts on how to fix??
As far as using a different fuel, that will only have a limited effect. The entire country is going to low sulphur fuel soon so that might help if you are in an area that doesn't already have low sulphur fuel.
The engine sounds smooth (no odd noises), drives very smooth.
thanks
VEnky
Blue smoke - burning motor oil
White "smoke" - normal exhaust system condensation being evaporated and blown out into the cold morning air where it instantly condenses back into a white vapor
Blue smoke, even confined to cold startup, is not a good sign on a car with such low accumulated miles. Your car was manufactured at a time (from about 1995 through 2002) when Toyota had some premature engine sludge problems with Camry 4 and 6 cylinder motors. Toyota recommended normal service oil changes a bit longer than the oils of the day would safely sustain for everyday driving. The company's since scaled back to 5,000 miles from the 7,500 mile oil and filter changes it once recommended. Toyota accepted responsibility and repaired or replaced engines as needed under a warranty extension if database service records or owners showed evidence of oil changes performed per owner's manual recommendations. Take your car to a Toyota dealership and request they check their service database to see if your car was serviced through Toyota dealers. You may be entitled to repairs. If the previous owner did his own service or had the car serviced through an independent shop, unless you can supply receipts for materials or service, you may be on your own. Good luck.
At 57K miles (last summer), the car developed blue smoke on startup. The problem was diagnosed as worn valve stem seals, which were replaced by the local Toyota dealer. At the same time, the head gasket was replaced, because coolant "seepage" onto the outside of the engine block was discovered. All work was done under the terms of the 60K powertrain warranty. The oil and filter was changed at the same time.
I had receipts of most (not all) oil and filter purchases and a detailed handwritten maintenance log, so I got no flak from the dealer about negligence.
Before the work started, the dealer said he'd check for sludge, without me broaching the subject. Luckily my engine was determined to be "fairly clean."
I have also noted in this thread that Toyota with its 2001 models still has a severe service oil change interval of 5000 miles, but they also have a separate card warning of sludge build up if the needed maintenance is ignored.
Still, I'd have your car checked because although you can ignore valve stem seals for the time being, you can't ignore sludge! With such low miles on a relatively old car, it wouldn't surprise me that the oil wasn't changed often enough (in terms to time, obviously not mileage).
BTW, my car started smoking again on startup at 102K miles, but I didn't do anything about it and sold the car at 111K miles disclosing the problem.
Is there a dramatic difference in oil consumption between
(a) valve stem seals leak
versus
(b) engine oil sludge ?
If there is a valve stem leak, how much oil is typically consumed ? a quart every 3000 miles ?
Venky
Sludge is a much more serious issue -- as to whether there's excessive oil consumption, I think it depends on how much sludge there is and where it's concentrated.
as penizzle is describing, anything which prevents displacement of the air in the tank when the fuel is going in will build a back pressure as you said causing it to be sensed in the pump nozzle and cause the pump to stop.
the place to start is the filler tube as was mentioned. if it isn't that, then i've provided what i think is the other most likely possibility.
on some cars, i think they have an internal bladder in the fuel tank. possibly if you run them too low, it's a problem to get them to open/expand back out. not sure about that, but i don't think you're vehicle has that sort of thing.
I was driving my car down the street to a friend's Home and all of a sudden it stopped in front of the road,so one of my buddy's mechanic friend checked it out for me,to see what was wrong and he didnt know the problem.this is what happened... I started to crank it up just to see will it start but no results, my mechanic looked inside the engine into one of the spark plugs to our surprise.. gas drowned out the spark plugs leaving it black ... the question is, if you crank your ride and gas shoots inside your spark plugs and drowns them everytime what could be the problem.. i need a answer ASAP.. Please!!!
Ok, every time I start up my 99 Camry LE, the engine would die a few seconds later unless I depress the throttle a little bit (1100 RPM or more). After a minute or two I can release the throttle and the engine will idle just fine, without dying. So what exactly is the problem? Could it be the fuel injector pumping an insufficient amount of fuel into the engine? Thanks in advance for any help!
any less -expensive solution available?