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Toyota Camry AC Questions

2

Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I have a 2004 Toyota Camry XLE it has 126000 miles on it. My AC light started flashing the other day and I am assuming that this means that I need the AC recharged or something like that. Would I be right in assuming that or is that even something that could be done? Or might it be something more serious? If someone could let me know that would be great.

    Yes, that could be done, and
    Yes, it could be more serious than a simple recharge

    That AC freon system is a closed system, so if it is low on freon then it leaked out somewhere....and will leak out again if you fill it up with a recharge.

    The question always is, how long will it take to leak out if I just refill it, and nobody can tell you that without looking at the vehicle and doing a freon leak test on it. But if you go to that trouble to identify the failing component, then you should go ahead and fix it.
  • jsheridan64jsheridan64 Member Posts: 2
    thank you for getting back to me I will have it checked out.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I would think the A/C system would need recharging, but this suggests there could be a leak somewhere in the system. Any competent shop (doesn't have to be a Toyota dealer) should be able to diagnose and fix the problem. The cost will depend greatly on where the leak, if any, is located.
  • searchlight7searchlight7 Member Posts: 4
    I previously leased a 2005 Camry Le which I enjoyed immensely, and about a month ago, I leased a 2009 as the other was over.

    I have noticed that in the 2009, when it is a hot day, and I turn the center dial to MAX A/C that the left dial indicator light turns on and is set for RECIRCULATION. I know that this is a normal function but I noticed that it takes up to 2 minutes with Hot Air blowing before Cold Air is actually blowing out of the vents. After that, the A/C works fine.

    In my 2005, with the same type of settings, Cold Air was blowing in less than a minute.

    Has anyone experienced the same thing, and does anyone know why? I spoke to three different dealers including the one I leased from, and received three different answers: it's normal, it's not normal and needs service, it is the computer sensors controlling the A/C temperature. Fyi, I have the Manual A/C version.

    I am taking the car back to the originating dealer to check out the A/C but I want more info and did not like the three different answers that I received.

    Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It seems that with only about a minute difference in the time cold air is coming out, I don't think the dealer is going to find anything wrong. But it doesn't hurt to check, because the car is new and under warranty.

    To me, it seems other factors would be more important, such as the outside air temperature and if the car is parked in direct sun or in the shade. Plus it's possible some A/C design changes were made when the car itself was redesigned for the 2007 model year.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Assuming your previous Camry had automatic climate control the blower would not normally come on, or on but not up to full speed, until the refrigerant had cooled the evaporator down to a level wherein you would not "feel" hot airflow if the blower came on earlier.

    Most manual systems will turn on the blower instantly and until a few minutes have elapsed for the refrigerant to be compressed, cooled to a liquid, and then converted back into a gas in the process of cooling the evaporator, you will always get relative warm system airflow.

    In any case it might be a good idea to have the dealer modify the default factory settings such that the system does not go into recirculate mode automatically when you first start the A/C cooling system on a HOT sunshiny day or when you use max cooling mode.

    At time when you enter the car on a hot day and the interior atmosphere is HOTTER then the outside it is a good idea to have the system in FRESH airflow mode, turn the system to max cooling and the blower full up. After a few moments when the HOTTER atmosphere has mostly been exhausted from the cabin then switch to recirculate for substantially improved cooling capacity/efficiency.
  • searchlight7searchlight7 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks 210delray for the reply. I just came back from the dealer, and like you said, he found nothing wrong, so my next question is whether this is characteristic of the model compared to my 2005, and the Service Advisor could not answer.

    I then went to a dealership sales manager who was involved in my sale, and he stated that he noticed something like that in his 2010 demo but that is as far as he could tell me, either.

    You would think that he or the service people would know a definitive answer but the best I have received so far is your suggestion that maybe there was an A/C design change.

    I guess I will have to investigate further. If anyone else knows the definitive answer, I would definitely appreciate it.

    Thanks again 210delray for pointing me in a direction.
  • searchlight7searchlight7 Member Posts: 4
    Wwest I just read your post after I responded to 210delray, thanks for your helpful info, too. My previous Camry did not have automatic climate control but manual.

    As I mentioned, I just came back from the dealer, and they responded there was nothing wrong but obviously did not or could not respond in the detailed manner that you undertook.

    That being said, the manual suggests for MAX A/C turn the center dial to MAX A/C and then the left dial to HI. Recirc mode will automatically activate in this mode.

    If I understand you, your suggestion in my case would be to try and move the center dial up one knotch from MAX, and put the fan at MAX while leaving the windows open for awhile to expel the hot air.

    Again thanks to all of you so far for the suggestions and help. I do appreciate it,
  • frb263frb263 Member Posts: 3
    I have noticed that the AC in my 2005 Camry LE was significantly stronger than it is in my 2009 Camry. I think my 2009 unit is working correctly, but it takes longer to cool the car on a hot day. The temperature blowing from the vents doesn't seem as cold, and the velocity of air is not a great as the 2005.
    I haven't noticed the delay you refer to, nor have I taken it to the dealer. (I don't think they could diagnose a flat tire, much less an AC problem). I checked the cabin air filter, was OK. It seems strange that there would be that much difference between these model years.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If your new Camry has automatic climate control and your old one had manual control that may well be the difference.

    To get maximum, QUICK, cabin cooldown if you have the automatic system the best procedure is to turn the system to the lowest temperatrue setting, the blower should automatically go to MAX speed, over-ride or leave the airflow mode in FRESH for long enough to EXHAUST the HOT cabin atmosphere and then switch the system to recirculate to increase the AC efficiency.

    Once the cabin atmosphere and surfaces are cooled down then lower the blower speed to a more comfortable sound level.

    If you want to REALLY improve AC efficiency then go to Home Depot and buy/install a water flow shutoff valve to insert in the hose to the heater core. The A/C can then be left to its own "devices" since the reheat/remix mode is now non-functional.

    FE will also improve a bit if you use these procedures.
  • mv52mv52 Member Posts: 4
    Yesterday, after driving about 10 miles on the highway (long enough for the AC to cool down), I noticed that the AC air blowing out of the front center-right vent (next to the center console) and front right side vent (next to the right front door) was blowing at the normal chilled AC temp of 38 degrees, BUT the air blowing out of the front center-left vent (next to the center console) and the front left side vent (next to the left front door) was luke warm (65 degrees). The two rear passenger vents (located between the lower backs of the two front seats) were also blowing luke warm air. Normally (for the past 6 years), all vents have blown chilled air of 38 degrees.

    There are no controls for separate right and left passenger temperature and there are no separate air temperature and fan speed control knobs. You set the desired cabin temperature with a climate control thermostat (like a home thermostat). The climate control seems to be working okay with regard to the air blowing out of the left-center and right side vents.

    Any ideas on what the problem may be and how to fix it, short of taking the car to the dealer? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'd suggest watching it for a bit to try to find additional failing symptoms. You really don't have a lot to go on, at this point.

    There are quite a bit of pieces to this control. There is a computer that manages this, which is also connected to the main engine computer. There are sensors like: thermister, room temp sensor, solar sensor, and outside ambient temp sensor. There are also a number of servo motors (think of an automated electrical door), controlled by the computer, to adjust air inlet, air mix, air vent,etc.

    I might originally suspect the air vent servo (air vent opened when it shouldn't have), but with only one failing condition at this point....I'd suggest monitoring it closely to see if you can identify different symptoms.

    Good luck.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    While you do not have "buttons" to select separate right/left control the climate control in your vehicle may be so equipped. I would suggest disconnecting the battery for ten or 15 minutes then cycling the system through all end points, max/min temperature, airflow routing, defrost/defog/demist mode, etc.

    Oh, you might try covering the solar radiation sensors with some object to see if that's what's modifying the right/left cooling. The fact that you cannot select separate right/left cooling effects does not mean the system cannot do it automatically.
  • mv52mv52 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply.

    When I turn the thermostat up (higher temp.), all vents open and close correctly and the warmed air temp. from all vents is 130 degrees--which is right on the mark. So it looks more like an AC problem. One of the first things I plan on checking is the refrigerant level.
  • mv52mv52 Member Posts: 4
    Just got back from a friend's garage. We saw through the refrigerant window that it was low on refrigerant. He topped it off and now all vents are blowing nice cool 38-40 degree air.

    My friend said that he has seen the same left vent hot air--right vent cool air problem on 2 BMW's, 1 Toyota, and 1 Bronco this year-and all were low on refrigerant. Intuitively, one would think it's a vent damper problem if 2 of 6 vents are blowing ice cold air and the other 4 vents are blowing warm air. Interesting, isn't it?
  • araenelaraenel Member Posts: 1
    Hi all. I have an 03 Camry XLE, which has been making strange sounds from the passenger side vents whenever I turn left, moreso if I'm braking harder/turning harder. At first this only happened when I had the A/C on. Now it happens when I have the fan on without the A/C going too.

    It is leaking on the floor underneath the passenger side glove compartment. At first it was a drop or two. Now more.

    Any thoughts/help?'

    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Unclog the drain on the A/C, sounds clogged and hence is sloshing and draining inside the compartment as opposed to outside the firewall and under the vehicle. Every vehicle drips condensation, that is what you see dripping down under vehicles on hot humid days.

    Also check that the area under the windshield is free of debris and drains properly.
  • mustaffa1mustaffa1 Member Posts: 2
    What if you are getting soaked carpets, especially driver's side. What could cause that. Ever hear of Camry Hybrids having this problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check for clogged sunroof drains if you have a sunroof, check the drains in the bottom of your doors (open the door up, look on the inside, down at the bottom).
  • geaux4itgeaux4it Member Posts: 9
    I have a new 2010 Camry for (2) weeks now. The A/C air temp is not as cold as any of the cars I have owned in the past. On a 85 degree day I am having to run the fan at 2/3 speed just to keep the car tolerable.

    Taking it into the dealer this morning and will post what the outcome is.
  • grams1grams1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a brand new 2010 Toyota Camry XLE. I am experiencing all 4 floor mats leaking. Have been told that it is coming from the blocked tubes from the condenser off of the AC. I have also been told it cannot be repaired. Have had it in once to have the tubes cleared. Was told that it is a design flaw. Anyone else with this problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Hogwash, take it back to the dealer, ask that the service manager review your case. If you have to after the 2nd repair, open a case with Toyota help desk and ask that a Regional Toyota rep look at it while it is at the dealership.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Yes, total hogwash. My 2010 does not have this problem, my '07 does not either, and your problem is the first I have heard. If your dealer continues to be unresponsive, call Toyota. Sounds like something was wrong from the start (factory assembly error, I would bet.)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Leaking or reeking..??

    Foul dirty gym socks odor due to mould/mildew formation within the A/C plenum would justify the dealer's statement.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    There was a TSB released not long ago for people who have problems with a mildew smell. I read about it on another website.
  • clarkphxclarkphx Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2003 Toyota Camry XLE (35K miles). Occasionally, the A/C light begins blinking, at which time only hot air is emitted thru the vents. I live in Phoenix! Any ideas what is the problem & how to fix? One garage has said it is an electrical problem. They supposedly recalibrated a "sensor" or something, but now the problem has returned. I'm going on a road trip, so need the A/C.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    From your owners manual..........

    If the “A/C” button indicator flashes, there
    is a problem in the air conditioning system
    and the air conditioning automatically
    shuts off. If this happens, take your vehicle
    to a Toyota dealer for service.

    You may want to try a more experienced garage...........
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2010
    Most common problem is that the compressor is not turning cognizant with engine RPM....

    Compressor clutch relay failed, failing, belt or compressor clutch slipping...

    Drove through puddles/rain...??
  • thebutcher5thebutcher5 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 camry and had same leaking. Pulled up the floor mat on passenger side and find the drain tube connected to compressor. Is next to center console. Have shop vac ready and just pull off hose. Water will come out if clogged. Tube is only about 6inches long. Poke thru it with something. I found a small plastic ball. Not sure if part of AC or not but was blocking tube. Now just need to dry out under both sides as the sponge like material under carpet has a lot of water. Replace tube and should be fine if that's the issue.
  • njtoyotalovernjtoyotalover Member Posts: 1
    When I turned on my car this morning, the AC was set to the 2nd of 4 levels. Suddenly I heard a low pop and then the AC stopped working. I shut it and tried it again, nothing. I tried all levels and only the high setting worked. Same with the fan and heat, only get wind blowing on the highest level.

    Could this be as simple as needing a fan blower resistor? Or does the motor also need to be replaced? Or any other ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Suspect blower resistor.

    There's a 4 prong connector, pull that apart and measure the resistance between pins on the resistor.

    This will be a little hard to explain, but the plug is oblong. Holding it so that the length is horizontal, on one side you'll have pins 1 and 3, and on the other side you'll have pins 2 and 4.

    measuring the resistance from 1 to 3, it should be 1.74 ohms.
    measuring the resistance from 2 to 4, it should be .38 ohms
    and if you are able to figure out which pins are 2 and 3 (cadicorner diagonal pins), it should be 1.12 ohms.

    If you don't get those resistances, replace the blower resistor.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Need some advice please on whether to trust what the dealer is telling me..

    2003 XLE V6 with 94K. Over a couple of years the auto A/C had not been switching correctly between air and heat during the transition period to spring in March (we live in SC). It just would not heat when the outside temp. was in the 60's (yes the wife requires it). The first time we asked at the dealers they said something like it was designed like that (as if the car decided when we needed heat). Anyway this spring, it just would not heat, even when set on max heat, this time we were told it was due to a 'thermo regulator valve' or the mechanism that operated the valve that let the heat in. The advisor said it would cost $290 and also 'aren't you glad it's not the whole unit which costs $820.

    When I took it in today I'm told it is the $820 part, he descibed it as the heater head. I have a feeling it encompasses the cheaper part that was first recommended. The advisor today tells me they were 'either wrong in the spring, or wrong now (can't believe he'd say that). Advice anyone, thanks..

    (The unit was set permanently on A/C this spring and cools fine.)
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Looked in the factory service manual for you (my words in ()).

    For the symptom Temp Contol - no warm air.....

    The sequence of items to check/repair/replace are:
    - Engine coolant volume (ie...is there hot water that is flowing thru the system)
    - Air mix damper servo assembly (this is a doorman who moves a damper door. Like there is a refrigerator on one side, oven on the other. It moves the damper from one side to the other to choose how much hot or cold gets mixed together)
    - Cooler Thermistor #1 (monitors the temperature, sends info back to control assembly)
    - A/C control assembly (the brains, and the damper)
    - Heater radiation sub-assembly (a little radiator, which takes the hot water and heats the air)
    - wiring harness
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Thanks for the quick reply kiawah. It looks like the first diagnosis we had in the spring was 'replace air mix damper servo assembly' and now we have moved on lower down the line to control assembly (my ticket says replace ac control head). Apparently this came from running a diagnosis. Could this be overkill, instead of just replacing the doorman they're doing the whole front entrance (so to speak).

    This has been giving intermittent trouble long before, but it was never written up or correctly diagnosed then.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    I do my own maintenance on all of our vehicles, but have never had to tear the dash apart in a Toyota (did my old Vette once, but that was a story in itself). If this was an extra car, where you had the luxery of time, you could take the dash apart and do a lot of diagnosing to find out exactly what small part was binding or not working correctly.

    Repair shops don't have the time, and you wouldn't want to pay their hourly rate either for them to do that. So they end up swapping out major FRU's (as we call them in the computer business - field replaceable units). You have a problem with your printer, you just swap the whole thing out, no matter how small the problem might have been.

    So they get your heating/ac diagnostics down to 4,5,6 major pieces that the techs can replace, and unfortunately those parts are larger conglomerates of many parts, so they can cost quite a bit. It also means less parts to handle, store, and inventory in the parts distribution channels.

    Dealerships/Repair shops have a tough job. Customers are sitting there waiting for the cars, mad that they are inconvenienced and have to even be there in the first place, and mad that they are going to pay what they feel are outrageous prices for labor and parts.

    So yes the parts are costly, but if they didn't fix it this way you'd have hours of labor instead that you'd have to pay for.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    edited July 2010
    Thanks, last questions..., is the damper door a separately replaceable part? I remember the service people distinctly telling me in March that boy you better be glad we don't have to replace the whole unit just the damper. Some one else bought the dealership so the old crew is gone. I know how it works with electronics, but it seems like Toyota could have had the replaceable units down to smaller parts here rather than $1000 (which is what it will cost) piece. I was so glad I left the Ford days behind when I bought this and now I'm paying the same amount as I did on my Sable for A/C and it's not even the compressor. I'm going to have someone else look at it. Do you recommend that? Should I stick to a Toyota dealership or general A/C licensed tech?. Thanks again..
  • swanjswanj Member Posts: 1
    I have 07 camry LE with single climate control. With the A/C on you can tell a significant difference in temperture from the driver side and passenger side. The passenger side is really cold and works great but the driver side just puts out heat with no mixture of cold. i tried looking online for some manual to remove the dash so i can look back there and see if a valve is stuck or something but it makes no sense since i do not have dual climate control. i
  • mv52mv52 Member Posts: 4
    I've had the same problem on my '03 and '06 Camry, as well as other cars. Simple solution: it's low on refrigerant.
  • edchkedchk Member Posts: 1
    My air con suddenly act funny. The driver side is cold as normal but the passenger side was pumping warm air on a hot day.

    I was told it only have one heat exchange so if driver side have cold air then pump and others are working. My garage take it apart and cannot find what is wrong. Any suggestions?
  • adamw812adamw812 Member Posts: 32
    My 2008 Camry LE, has an offensive odor as if there is mold in/on the evaporator. The car is still under warranty, it has only 12,000 miles on it. Should I take it in and have them argue with me? Will they fix it without an issue? I have tried Ozium in the air intake at the base of the windshield and it is such a powerful odor of urine, the Ozium has a hard time combating it.
  • jomarexjomarex Member Posts: 3
    I took it to the mechanic before it got hot enough to need the A/C. He says it has a full charge of refrigerant, and it never quit blowing really cold the whole time he burned up a lot of gas, idling it to see if it would quit.

    Last year, it would blow hot intermittently; now, it only blows cold for a minute or two after I start the cold engine, and blows hot the rest of the day while I keep driving around. It appears that if I let the engine cool down enough, then it will blow cold for a minute, then hot. It's only been hot outside the last couple of days, though.

    I have fixed a lot of things on cars, but know nothing at all about A/C...

    any ideas for me?
    thanks
  • nightfall1nightfall1 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    i recently bought a 40000milles 07 camry le the ac unit was not working i took it to the repair shop the unit was flushed and gas replaced but i noticed any time i switch the ac the engine drops like the compressor is sucking the life out of the engine the compressor finally broke down after a day i had it replaced but still the dropping of engine power was still on i used it for several months and again the compressor is dead please advice me on what to do.
    i need all the information i can get i leave in a remote area where the service personnel dont really know a lot about the 07 camry if i can get any advice i could supervise in fixing the problem
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Toyota often replaces the evaporator with this condition but even if they do the condition will most likely return.

    First, DO NOT allow the A/C compressor to run unless actual cooling, initial cool down, is REQUIRED. A/C dehumidification of the cabin airflow results in the evaporator, think SPONGE, being left saturated with moisture once the A/C is switched off.

    Dark, moist, dank A/C plenum, perfect breeding area for the microbes whose "leavings" produce that rather horrid mould and mildew odor.

    In the mean time it helps, really helps, if you can leave the windows lowered, even slightly during times the car is parked under shelter. That allows the accumulated moisture to evaporate and be flushed out of the cabin.

    Many upscale vehicles now have a UV light mounted within the A/C plenum to combat the microbe breeding. Toyota has experimented over the years, since '91, with several anti-microbe, fungicide, coating on the ~10,000 sq. inches of evaporator surface area. These have either been found to be detrimental to human health or wash away too quickly.
  • camry_columbiacamry_columbia Member Posts: 2
  • camry_columbiacamry_columbia Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 Camry is blowing hot air with the indicator light flashing. I have checked other online forum early this summer (May) and following the suggestion, I replaced the clutch relay (placed in the fuse box under the hood) and after done that the AC went to back normal. Then just last week, the AC broke again. I unplugged the clutch relay and put it back on, then the AC started working just fine. However, yesterday, the AC stopped working again. Does anybody have any idea what's wrong with my AC? By the way, it also seems like the AC is more likely to broke when outside temperature is hot.
  • eliotbeliotb Member Posts: 3
    Hi: the car is a '98 camry le, 4cyl with 95k on it. a couple of months ago the AC began to get weak and i was hearing a noise that rose with engine speed, then fell as the tranny shifted. It goes on when the AC clutch engages. Goes off when the clutch disengages. As mentioned, AC output is weak now.

    Local shop says compressor, probaby the bearings, is going bad and quotes me roughly $900 to replace compressor and drier, and maybe an expansion valve.

    Questions: does this diagnosis sound correct and does the rough estimate seem appropriate? Since we are going into fall and I've dropped about $2,350 into this car in the past year I thought I'd wait to spring. (previous work was oil pump seals, water pump, timing belt, starter, battery and new tires)

    Thanks.

    EliotB
    Annandale, VA
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Your engine is "threatening" to overheat and the A/C is disabled automatically.
  • vinbetvinbet Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 99 solara, read about blending doors,and switches, and vacuum lines and after I spent many hours and scraped knuckles found nothing! As a shot in the dark I tried one of those cheat Walmart/autozone 134 recharge cans..... Worked great for the rest of the season, come to find out it was just low... It's starting to get warm again and same thing, thinking I had it all figured out, tried this agian... All I found was two empty cans and no ac.... After looking further I found the actual problem. The thinner line (liquid line) coming from the firewall to the dryer has come loose from the clips and was rubbing on e belt creating the leak. $85 from the dealer waiting on it now. This is why I'm back on the Internet ... Looking for an easier way to replace this line... Lots of bending and spinning to get the old one out. Worried about damaging the new one when I put it in. Also question if I should replace the dryer since I'm there anyway???
  • seanransonetseanransonet Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 toyota camry and every time we drive for more than 30 minutes it stops blowing cold air,but if we leave it sit for about 4 hours and leave again it will be ok for about another 30 minutes.This happens every time we get in the car.Can anyone help me with this.
    Thank you.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Air stops blowing altogether, or stops providing cooling..??

    For the former your evaporator is likely freezing over/up.
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