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Comments
What's "RF"?
Disconnect the cruise control.
You need to have the transmission scanned. Sounds like something is losing electricity for a control module. When transmissions detect they've lost control of the shift timing, they revert to a limp mode which gives a quick shift to prevent clutch slippage.
I assume your car has a transponder in the key and does have a security system? I know if mine is opened manually by key without using the remote after using the remote to lock, it sounds the security horn until the key goes into the ignition lock. Odd, but logical. I'm assuming the same security system w/ transponder key applies to the base models.
Do some reading about connection problems in the fuse box giving strange symptoms. To me, this sounds suspiciously like it might be related.
Although when I can get to them, I'll read about the security and transponder in my FSM set for 2008. If I find there's a relationship where the security system affects the shift times as part of security, I'll post it.
Good luck. I'd do lots of searching and reading on the net.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Sorry about your problem. I'll have to watch out for that one.
Thanks for passing it on.
George
If you would like for us to check and see if there are any open recalls on your vehicle, please email us the last 8 digits of your VIN at socialmedia@gm.com with your inquiry and we'd be happy to do so.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We look forward to an update on what your dealership has found after keeping your vehicle overnight. If you would like for us to follow up on this with them, please send the following information to us via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can set up a Service Request: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We're sorry to hear that your car wouldn't start for you last week, and that the problem was not able to be duplicated by your dealership when you went in. Keep us posted on if this should happen again as we're here to assist! We can be reached at socialmedia@gm.com
Sarah, GM Customer Service
You will see this fuse located to the left of one of the bigger fuses called "Cool SER/PAR". The fuse you are looking for is a smaller fuse. GOOD LUCK!!!
We're sorry that you've had so many difficulties with your Cobalt. If you would like for us to check into this further, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We see that you're both having some troubles with your Cobalts, and if you wanted for us to check into anything further with you (warranty or recall information, working with a dealership, etc), please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
What was the court name and location and the names on the suit? This would be interesting to see the claims that GM and the dealer settled on. Case/docket number? Attorney name? or did you use small claims?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Anyone know which fuse it is?
"Cause: scan, no codes, no park or interior lights, check PL fuse, ok, check BCM, no power at X3 A7, trace wire back to under hood fuse block.
Correction:repair poor connection at X5 D1, Check all lights working oK.
It was 0.8 hrs...just charged m72$ for labour....unfortunatly my factory warranty expired 30 days before repair
Took it home and it blew again!! Took back, tech trace problem back to tail light fuse therefore an external issue. he was going to replace an entire electrical line ($$$ in labour) and happened to do one more look around vehicle and noticed and kink and exposed wire in the trailer harness wiring. Patched the exposed wire and lights on (with another replaced fuse). Lets hope this helps
After Dealership replaced Fuel pump Twice! It ran badly and would stall out.
Then the Windshield wipers would go into Insanity mode.
The dealer said "Replace the Fuse Box."
$500 dollars later, Im broke.
I want my money baack!!
Did you have any luck?
-Patrick
I'm sorry that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. May I be of some assistance to you? If you would send me, your full name, address, phone, VIN and the name of the dealership you are working with to socialmedia@gm.com (attn: Marlea) I‘ll do my best to research your concern and find a resolution.
Marlea Wilson
GM Customer Care
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
We have a grand cherokee now, it has issues as well. These static plastic blocks in the power window mechanism, no joke with a metal cable running over them,,, yeah that will last, they are failing one at a time. Transmission issues all well documented here on Edmunds. Neighbor runs a late 80's F150, manual 4 speed, has some rust issues but the thing has out lasted our last 2 modern vehicles. We've pretty much thrown in the towel on getting any type of reliable life out of any modern vehicle. Good Luck!
The car has been hesitating for a few months when you pull up to a stop light it tries to die. I am not using some cheap gas I run Shell. WEll, I did some research on this site and have come up with the new Cobalt problemn:Throttle body/sensor. Sure enough on the way home the other night the engine light came on. Error reading Throttle body. ugh. First recall, took my car to Chevy dealer told them my gas mileage had dropped significantly. they told me that there was nothing they could find I took it in 3 times before the recall came out and then that same dealer told me that my car was the worst fuel leak they had seen. Hmmm it was a wonder I had not caught fire. Well then there was the problem of the heater going out, blinkers not working I was told it was the steering colomun. Thank God the recall came out on that, at first they told me it did not pertain to my car. Well when they fixed that my heater started working??? the blinkers started working but now they won't turn off. just a minor irritaion on that. Then the a/c line broke and I had to pay $450 to have that fixed. NOw the throttle body error. Too much Chevy give us a new Ford car!
Good luck with your Fords.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Ignition Switch Parts
I am driving a 2010 Cobalt XFE (a cheap model with manual transmission designed for high mileage).
Early in March, 2014 I my ignition switch broke. The car was running and I could not turn the key far enough to shut it off. Eventually, by carefully moving the key around (avoiding strain that might bend or break the key), I found that I could at least get the key out. But there was no way to shut off the electrical system.
I eventually found that if I let the car run down to its slowest idle, I could put it in 1st gear and
carefully let out the clutch to stall the motor. The electrical system was still active, but at least fuel was not being wasted.
Luckily, I was at home in the underground parking (another reason to stop the engine from running unnecessarily), so I called the dealership and arranged to bring it in for repair, and then prepared the car by unloading as much of my property as possible.
Putting the key back into the ignition switch and re-starting the car were not problems. I drove the car to the dealership in the early afternoon and explained the problem. We expected that it would be done early next day, and it was.
It was billed as a warranty repair with $100 Cdn deductible.
Warning signs: I can remember at least once that I had difficulty shutting off the ignition in the car. I had decided to look into it, but I eventually forgot about it. That had happened probably around a year earlier. It might have happened a second time, but I am not sure about that. I would call that, at most "infrequent".
The invoice lists the work as follows:
Complaint: "Check and report on unable to turn off ignition - GMPP T/P $100.00 deductible - $114.95 Diagnosis plus tax if not GMPP."
Cause: "(2F) Jammed Ign Cylinder...Tumbler bar fell apart... and key badly worn 5430040"
Correction: "Replace ignition lock cylinder and recode to key code. Also cut new key. Free-up and remove jammed cylinder...unable to rotate cylinder...Auth by GMPP"
Parts:
"1 x 20869121 Cylinder 111K2 $117.26
1 x 15824471 Key KeyS2C $24.28"
My final billed cost was the agreed $100 Cdn + taxes covering the deductible.
I can see this is clearly related to the ignition problems other people are having. Ironically, I have always kept the ignition key I use on a separate key tag because I live in a Condo and need to have the car key separate from the key to open the garage door (which is locked at night). So even without knowing about that advice I had complied with the recommendation.
I have no particular complaint about the handling of the situation overall. I do have one question. Does anyone know about the replacement part? If it is no better than the one that I had before, does that mean that I can expect problems, say in another four years?
My car has had this problem since 40k miles. It now has over 70k miles. Ill be driving down the interstate and the power steering will go out. This isnt safe, but when I called GM they said "tough luck". Report your problem to NHTSA at 18883273246 if they receive enough complaints GM will be forced to issue a recall.