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Comments
Does the 96 have a cabin air filter, on the XL?
I've got a '95 Avalon with 158,000 miles on it, and I'd like to keep it for another year or two. Dealer tells me my valve-cover gaskets are leaking, and the fix will cost $700, including materials. Seems like a whole lot of money to me, at $80 per hour. Is this something I should entrust only to the dealer, or can any competent mechanic do it? If the latter is a possibility, about how much should I expect to pay in the suburban DC area? Should I just try to snug-up the bolts a bit first, after steam-cleaning the engine?
I'd like to have a new Limited, and She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed has okayed the release of funds, but I'd feel better about waiting for another year or so, just in case there are some "kinks" in the new model. Besides, I think the colors offered now are REALLY crappy!
Thanks----Phil
p.s. I also had a problem with my bulb-warning light, but saw no lights not working. Upon removing a bulb or two, I realized that some had TWO filaments (hence the two little lead-like nipples on end of bulb), checked both filaments with an ohmmeter, and VOILA ! the culprit was readily identified!
If you dont want to tackle the job, then check some independent garages and get some quotes before you do anything.
MikeS.
Solie
Yes it is quite possible to do your own oil & filter changes. The filter is located on the underside of the car, passenger side. It uses a replaceable element, you reuse the cannister. The new filter element comes with 2 O rings that you replace too. There is a plastic drain spigot included and a decent instruction sheet.
I use only Toyota filters on my 4 Toyotas and I usually buy them from ToyotaParts World. They are cheaper there even with shipping then from my local dealers.
MikeS.
I've been using Mobil1 for a few years now. I have almost 6K miles on my 05 Avalon LTD and have done 2 oil changes. 1st 1 @ 1k miles and 2nd @ 5k, both with dino oil. @ 10k and every 5 after that I'll be using Mobil1 5-30. I also use only Toyota filter for both air & oil. Buy them from a dealer off of the 'net.
MikeS.
1. The CD player appears to be skipping constantly whether the car is traveling or sitting still. It has gotten a bit better over the past day, but still is not totally fixed. Could this be from non use by the previous owner? Is there something that I can do to fix this?
2. The moonroof only pops up in the back, but will not slide open. The button on the roof indicates that it should slide and when pushed makes some noise like it's doing something, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?
Are either of these things fixable by me who knows next to nothing about cars or do they require an expert? Can a local shop help or does this require a Toyota dealership? Because this was bought for my children to drive I hate to put too much money into a fix, but it is a very nice car and it seems a shame not to have these options work. Also, I didn't get an owners manual with the car which I really miss, so I can't check for help there. Anybody have an extra 98 Avalon owners manual?
MikeS.
If I am not understanding how the roof slides open, please let me know. I realize that you can't slide the roof if it's currently tilted, but my roof won't slide at all. Is there something unique about how the Avalon's buttoms work to slide the roof?
Thanks,
Sara
Solie
I do see a demonstrable difference during the winter months. Cracking time is reduced, warm up is reduced, and the heat comes on sooner. So is sub zero climates, synthetics certainly have more of an advantage from the get go.
abfisch
Abfisch, you asked earlier about the cost of tranny filter and I told you about 35 bucks. Add 10 to that and you should be in the ball park, sorry.
MikeS.
Thanks. I bought two tranny filters. I was wondering if it is worth changing the gasket too when you change the filters or can you reuse the old one??? I guess it depends on if you tear it or not. Do you use some high temp. gasket goo in the tube also??? I am going to give it a try, once I get this info. Interestingly, the Toyota Service manual has nothing on it, and my wife's 03 Honda Civic manual talks about fluid changes only for the AT, not filter changes.
While I am not a mechanic, and perhaps from a data standpoint, the use of synthetic oil would give longer engine life, the facts are that most of the time, people do not hold onto there cars for longer than 300K, or 200K. Using regular oil, three times as cheap, with 5K intervals would ensure most of minimal if any problems until that mileage. The longest I have own a car is to 236K, still going strong to the next owner, with regular oil changes and just using synthetic during the cold winter months up here. I cannot substantiate the cost of synthetic every 5K, unless you drive very short trips, and less than 10K a year. That hasn't happened since back in the day.
Thanks for the info and the good helpful incite.
abfisch
How long will this car last until I can expect to be putting major ($500+) repairs into it? The dealer told me that, for instance, the eletronics were totally redesigned in the new '05 car. What is Toyota's track record for warranty items when they release new styles for their Avalons/Lexus/Camrys?
Thanks in advance for the help.
can't comment on your scheduled maintenance since i don't own an avalon. what does your manual say at 40 and 50K? did you have these things done?
i'm curious, you managed to clear a CEL code thrown by the OBD system. How'd you do that, with someone else's reader? did you pull the code(s)? now that it's on again, you might want to pull the code(s) you have stored now, and see what they mean.
Change the transmission fluid at 36k miles or less. A flush is better as you get all the fluid, not just part of it. But it might not really be necessary. I do it anyway.
Brake fluid and coolant are discussed in the manual but 4 years sounds long enough for both of them. Keep the gas cap tight and read the error code again. Injectors may be fouled due to low annual mileage and cold weather. Maybe.
Enjoy the Avy.. I'm on my second one. Great cars.
We live in the same area, only I am on the other side of the Adirondacks near Ft.Drum, NY. Own a 02 Avalon with 73K on it. Here is my take, similar but not exact.
1. Use synthetic oil only in the winter. Change it at 5K intervals.
2. Tranny change at 40-50K, and a full change including filter 80-100K.
3. Brake fluid should be changed, regardless of mileage every 3 years.
4. If you put on 20K like I do, then why not change the water pump, timing belt and radiator fluid ALL at the same time. Timing belt should be done at 80-90K, just about the time the radiator fluid needs changing, the two V belts, and ya might as well do the water pump too cause they are right there.
5. Buy some inexpensive steel Toyota or similar steel wheels and use winter tires on all four. Much surer during the winter time.
Good luck.
abfisch
The car was in the service department for a $150 inspection and oil change, notwithstanding the necessity for some inspection items was suspect. Front and rear brake inspection was included. Simply looking at them inspects front disk brakes. Inspection of rear drum brakes require wheel and drum removal. The service manageress approached me with a grim look on her face and told me the car’s brakes required cleaning, at $50 extra. Front disk brakes require no cleaning. Cleaning rear drum brakes with the drum already removed consists of dropping the drum on the floor upside-down from about 12” so the brake dust drops out, and blowing out the brake assembly with an air hose for a few seconds. In fact, most of the dust drops out when the drum is removed. I asked her if I looked like I had just fallen off a turnip truck. She looked a little sheepish. I haven’t been back since.
We recently replaced our second car with an Acura. Early indications are the Acura dealer has an equally impressive but unnecessary inspection regimen. I’ll put up with it during the warranty period, but then it’s sayonara. My theory is the cars are so good Toyota and Acura dealers have to cheat to achieve acceptable service department profits.
Thanks.
Thanks.
The square plug is for access to a drain. An adapter comes with each filter element. Inserting it in the opening behind the square plug drains all of the old oil out of the filter. You use a 65mM cap-style wrench (type B at Wally-World, $3.99) to subsequently remove the filter housing and replace the cartridge.
Download the PDF file referred to in one of the messages to learn how to replace and position the O-ring seals (new ones come with the filter kit).
Good luck with the new one.
abfisch
I opened and replaced only three.
I could not find more.
Anyone knows?
Thanks
3 more spark plugs are waiting for their home.
Avalon is the great car, but some parts are little bit hard to maintenance by ourselves.
Thanks.
Other members who do this all the time may have more details. Hope it helps.....
Your use of the words "ramps" and "level" in the same sentence confused me. I raise only the front wheels (~4.5") because the drain plug is at the rear of the pan. Did you just drive on ramps in the front?
Was your engine hot before draining the old oil. Cold oil can take a long time to drain out, and some cxan remain behind due to surface tension.
6.4 quarts was perfect for me. Just below the full mark on the dipstick, with filter change.