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Toyota Avalon Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    Was the valve cover leaking? Why the replace? My 96 XL with 160K has no problem so I'm wondering what happened to yours?

    Does the 96 have a cabin air filter, on the XL?
  • petras2petras2 Member Posts: 104
    thanks for the reply re fluid changes...re tires, i purchased a set of yokohama avid touring tires 205/65, $228 including shipping at tire rack, mounting and balance another $40, so far very pleased with the ride and low noise, not the greatest in moderate snow however...petras
  • 54gradsteds54gradsteds Member Posts: 102
    Hi,
    I've got a '95 Avalon with 158,000 miles on it, and I'd like to keep it for another year or two. Dealer tells me my valve-cover gaskets are leaking, and the fix will cost $700, including materials. Seems like a whole lot of money to me, at $80 per hour. Is this something I should entrust only to the dealer, or can any competent mechanic do it? If the latter is a possibility, about how much should I expect to pay in the suburban DC area? Should I just try to snug-up the bolts a bit first, after steam-cleaning the engine?

    I'd like to have a new Limited, and She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed has okayed the release of funds, but I'd feel better about waiting for another year or so, just in case there are some "kinks" in the new model. Besides, I think the colors offered now are REALLY crappy!

    Thanks----Phil

    p.s. I also had a problem with my bulb-warning light, but saw no lights not working. Upon removing a bulb or two, I realized that some had TWO filaments (hence the two little lead-like nipples on end of bulb), checked both filaments with an ohmmeter, and VOILA ! the culprit was readily identified!
  • zone1zone1 Member Posts: 11
    Hang On! There is no way in the world that replacing valve cover gaskets should cost that much. The job is fairly simple, and can be done by anyone with even a questionable mechanical aptitude. It's just not that hard to do, and the gaskets don't cost more than $50., if that much.
    If you dont want to tackle the job, then check some independent garages and get some quotes before you do anything.
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    45bucks sounds like a pretty fair price to me.

    MikeS.
  • soliesolie Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 05 Avalon XL, While looking at the engine I was trying to find the oil filter as I like to do my own oil changes. Couldn't find it come to find out the Avalon uses an oil cartridge. Is it possible to change your own oil?

    Solie
  • pmcb48pmcb48 Member Posts: 192
    MikeS is a new Avalon owner who changes his own oil, and could advise you on how to do it. Technically, your question probably best belongs in the Avalon Owners: Care and Maintenance forum. You could post it there, and/or in the Avalon Owners: Meet the Members (Mike is the #2 post there) forum, which you'll probably want to sign on to anyway, and I know Mike checks it. The 2005+ Avalon Forum is also an option, but more for general discussion than maintenance issues. Welcome. :)
  • rwb2rwb2 Member Posts: 85
    It's possible and easy but I would suggest you take it to your Toyota dealer for the first one and hopefully they'll let you observe. Mine was the first one they had done and they had the Toyota screen up on their computer while they worked. But again observe. I always liked changing my own but my dealer is willing to do it for $16.99 and since it takes 6 1/2 quarts of oil why not let them. Additionally you and your mechanic can give it the once over much better than you can in your garage. Plus you might get some free advice.
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    "I just bought a 05 Avalon XL, While looking at the engine I was trying to find the oil filter as I like to do my own oil changes. Couldn't find it come to find out the Avalon uses an oil cartridge. Is it possible to change your own oil? "

    Yes it is quite possible to do your own oil & filter changes. The filter is located on the underside of the car, passenger side. It uses a replaceable element, you reuse the cannister. The new filter element comes with 2 O rings that you replace too. There is a plastic drain spigot included and a decent instruction sheet.

    I use only Toyota filters on my 4 Toyotas and I usually buy them from ToyotaParts World. They are cheaper there even with shipping then from my local dealers.

    MikeS.
  • limiteddriverlimiteddriver Member Posts: 234
    I just purchased an '05 Limited Avalon Friday. My dealer says synthetic is fine but Toyota still requires a 5000 mile change interval. Are any of you using synthetic? At what mileage did you change? Are you using the 5000 interval? Anyone using the Toyota brand dino oil? TIA
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    " just purchased an '05 Limited Avalon Friday. My dealer says synthetic is fine but Toyota still requires a 5000 mile change interval. Are any of you using synthetic? At what mileage did you change? Are you using the 5000 interval? Anyone using the Toyota brand dino oil? TIA "

    I've been using Mobil1 for a few years now. I have almost 6K miles on my 05 Avalon LTD and have done 2 oil changes. 1st 1 @ 1k miles and 2nd @ 5k, both with dino oil. @ 10k and every 5 after that I'll be using Mobil1 5-30. I also use only Toyota filter for both air & oil. Buy them from a dealer off of the 'net.

    MikeS.
  • 4bearhug4bearhug Member Posts: 52
    I just purchased a 98 Avalon w/ 87k miles to be used by my kids. I've really appreciated all of the helpful posts here on problem solving by the Avalon experts. I just found a couple of issues with the car that I would appreciate some helpful advice.

    1. The CD player appears to be skipping constantly whether the car is traveling or sitting still. It has gotten a bit better over the past day, but still is not totally fixed. Could this be from non use by the previous owner? Is there something that I can do to fix this?

    2. The moonroof only pops up in the back, but will not slide open. The button on the roof indicates that it should slide and when pushed makes some noise like it's doing something, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    Are either of these things fixable by me who knows next to nothing about cars or do they require an expert? Can a local shop help or does this require a Toyota dealership? Because this was bought for my children to drive I hate to put too much money into a fix, but it is a very nice car and it seems a shame not to have these options work. Also, I didn't get an owners manual with the car which I really miss, so I can't check for help there. Anybody have an extra 98 Avalon owners manual?
  • pcp2pcp2 Member Posts: 12
    The use of an oil cartridge seems to me a change into the PAST. I had a 1964 E-Type Jag and it had a cartridge filter. You had better get it installed correctly or it would leak oil all over the place. Can someone tell me why Toyota would go into the past to put a unsuccessful filter on a modern car?
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    It is not the past..it's the future. The reason is "recycle". It is easier to get used oil from a paper cartridge than from a paper cartridge wrapped in steel. The spin-on filters are much easier to use but cause more trouble in the waste oil recovery process. That's my guess... we should expect to see more of the "old tech" filters. :)
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    What fin has said about oil recovery is what Toyota has said about using this cartridge. Recycling is the big reason here. Plus I bet they save a few cents for every filter AND they charge us more for the new element only. My local dealer dent out a coupon flyer a few weeks ago and they had Toyota filters for 3.99 each. They exempted the Land Cruiser from the coupon but not the 05 Avalon. I bought 10 and saved about 20 bucks. :)

    MikeS.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    2. you do realize there are 2 seperate switches for the roof. Tilt and slide. the roof will only slide if the roof hasnt been tilted and vice versa.
  • 4bearhug4bearhug Member Posts: 52
    I think I know what you mean by 2 separate switches. There is one main switch on the roof with a front portion that tilts the roof and a back portion that slides the roof. I may have the order reversed, but I think that's how it works. The middle of the switch shows a circle and I'm not sure/don't remember what that does. Not having an owners manual is a bit of a pain.

    If I am not understanding how the roof slides open, please let me know. I realize that you can't slide the roof if it's currently tilted, but my roof won't slide at all. Is there something unique about how the Avalon's buttoms work to slide the roof?
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i have a 96 avalon. It has 2 SEPARATE switches. One to slide and one to tilt. i had an older camry and it only came with one switch. only slide no tilt. toyota roofs when closing stop halfway. you will have to release the button and press it again. try to release and press repeatedly. did you every remove the battery. i've heard of pwr windows needing to be reset dont know whether it applies to roofs.
  • sararno9sararno9 Member Posts: 2
    I am ready to buy an avalon and it has 177,000 miles on it for $3300. I was told the only maintenance needed soon would be the gasket seals. Is this expensive to fix and also does this sound like a good deal?

    Thanks,
    Sara
  • soliesolie Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone installed the Fram Sure drain system on their Avalon? I have a 04 4runner and installed one they work fantastic, not one drop off oil.

    Solie
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    I have an 02 Avalon with 67K. I change the oil every 5K. I use synthetic oil, ONLY during the winter months. All other times, using regular 5W-30. The winter weight is 0W-30 Mobil 1. IMO, there is very little difference, in regular driving with changes at those intervals, with a filter change as well. My last car, a 92 Civic, sold at 236K, had everything working on it, with about maybe 1/2 pint used in the 5K interval. Certainly would have gone to 300K. IMO, synthetic would be of benefit in certain situations, extreme heat, stop and go traffic, longer intervals, pulling a trailer, etc, but for the average golfer, it is cost prohibitive, if you want to get to retirement early.

    I do see a demonstrable difference during the winter months. Cracking time is reduced, warm up is reduced, and the heat comes on sooner. So is sub zero climates, synthetics certainly have more of an advantage from the get go.

    abfisch
  • mikes.mikes. Member Posts: 337
    I switched to using Mobil1 3 or 4 years ago for what several mechanics have told me is better engine life. I change every 5k with a new filter. I buy it at Costco and get it a fair bit cheaper then anywhere else.

    Abfisch, you asked earlier about the cost of tranny filter and I told you about 35 bucks. Add 10 to that and you should be in the ball park, sorry.

    MikeS.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Mikes>:

    Thanks. I bought two tranny filters. I was wondering if it is worth changing the gasket too when you change the filters or can you reuse the old one??? I guess it depends on if you tear it or not. Do you use some high temp. gasket goo in the tube also??? I am going to give it a try, once I get this info. Interestingly, the Toyota Service manual has nothing on it, and my wife's 03 Honda Civic manual talks about fluid changes only for the AT, not filter changes.

    While I am not a mechanic, and perhaps from a data standpoint, the use of synthetic oil would give longer engine life, the facts are that most of the time, people do not hold onto there cars for longer than 300K, or 200K. Using regular oil, three times as cheap, with 5K intervals would ensure most of minimal if any problems until that mileage. The longest I have own a car is to 236K, still going strong to the next owner, with regular oil changes and just using synthetic during the cold winter months up here. I cannot substantiate the cost of synthetic every 5K, unless you drive very short trips, and less than 10K a year. That hasn't happened since back in the day.

    Thanks for the info and the good helpful incite.

    abfisch
  • fosman77fosman77 Member Posts: 13
    I have a new Limited with 500 miles. I am going to change to synthetic at 1000 miles again at 5000 and then every 5000 thereafter. I am also going to change the trans fluid every 5000. This may be overkill but the tranny has a drain plug and only takes about 3 qts, Cheap Insurance.
  • schmidty1963schmidty1963 Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday, (07-08-05) I had my oil changed at the local Goodyear dealer. The mileage was just under 5,000 miles. Today, I hit 5,000 miles and now the maintenance required light is on. Anyone out there know how to turn if off? Any and all help is most appreciated.
  • harris1994harris1994 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased an '06 Avalon XL. I understand that 1) dealers make a lot of money off of extended warranties and 2) that Toyotas are very reliable cars. My last car was a used '97 Bonneville that I drove for about 90k miles until $4k of engine and transmission repairs finally ended its useful life. I've always owned GM cars until now. I'm being offered a 6yr, 100k mi warranty for $1700. Up to 100k miles, what kind of repairs can I expect to be making (and unexpected ones?) - Electrical? A/C? Head gasket? Suspension? Fuel pump?

    How long will this car last until I can expect to be putting major ($500+) repairs into it? The dealer told me that, for instance, the eletronics were totally redesigned in the new '05 car. What is Toyota's track record for warranty items when they release new styles for their Avalons/Lexus/Camrys?

    Thanks in advance for the help.
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Here is what Consumer Reports says about this: "In our judgment, extended warranties aren't worth the money, especially if you buy a reliable car--one whose predicted reliability we rate excellent or very good--or plan on keeping the car only three or four years. Yet salespeople, who are compensated for selling such warranties, will push them on new car buyers. If you plan on keeping a car for at least five years and feel you must have an extended warranty for peace of mind, we recommend one backed by the vehicle manufacturer, not by an independent insurance company. In our experience, manufacturer-backed warranties are often better than the independents', easier to make claims against, and have less fine print."
  • kuolkuol Member Posts: 7
    No, only Air filter. Thanks! :D
  • adirondack1adirondack1 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 2001 two years ago used and have put 20000 miles on it.. It runs beautifully however comments about gelling have recently caused me to switch to synthetic oil. I change the oil religiously. My question is: at 50000 should I have transmission fluid changed, brake fluid flushed, radiator flushed? Also, I recently had the check engine light come on. The dealer said to tighten the gas cap. I cleared the code and drove the car to Florida and back(3000 miles). The light came on when I got back to NY at the end of the trip. It appears that it is coming on when it is cold outside(under 60 degrees). Possibly I am running lean. Should I have the injectors cleaned. I hesitate to go to the dealer for diagnosis. They seem to deal with replace and pay instead of diagnose. Also, I have heard nothing about the 8 year warranty....how do I verify I have it on this vehicle?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    adirondack1, i hope your living in the NE and have the opportunity to enjoy autumn up there!

    can't comment on your scheduled maintenance since i don't own an avalon. what does your manual say at 40 and 50K? did you have these things done?

    i'm curious, you managed to clear a CEL code thrown by the OBD system. How'd you do that, with someone else's reader? did you pull the code(s)? now that it's on again, you might want to pull the code(s) you have stored now, and see what they mean.
  • adirondack1adirondack1 Member Posts: 2
    I cleared the code by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 seconds. It works very nicely.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i do a tranny & coolant change every 48k kms so it might be a good idea. I think Toyota also recommends it.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    No problem with the oil gel... mostly due to poor upkeep by the owner. Use good oil, change the filter, don't worry. Synthetic is not necessary but many who post here use it and all seem to like it.

    Change the transmission fluid at 36k miles or less. A flush is better as you get all the fluid, not just part of it. But it might not really be necessary. I do it anyway.

    Brake fluid and coolant are discussed in the manual but 4 years sounds long enough for both of them. Keep the gas cap tight and read the error code again. Injectors may be fouled due to low annual mileage and cold weather. Maybe.

    Enjoy the Avy.. I'm on my second one. Great cars. :)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    now that you've got the light again, why not go to the local automotive parts store and see if they'll read the code(s) for you. maybe interpreting the code(s) will help you determine what's happening when the ambient is cold.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Adirondack1:

    We live in the same area, only I am on the other side of the Adirondacks near Ft.Drum, NY. Own a 02 Avalon with 73K on it. Here is my take, similar but not exact.

    1. Use synthetic oil only in the winter. Change it at 5K intervals.
    2. Tranny change at 40-50K, and a full change including filter 80-100K.
    3. Brake fluid should be changed, regardless of mileage every 3 years.
    4. If you put on 20K like I do, then why not change the water pump, timing belt and radiator fluid ALL at the same time. Timing belt should be done at 80-90K, just about the time the radiator fluid needs changing, the two V belts, and ya might as well do the water pump too cause they are right there.

    5. Buy some inexpensive steel Toyota or similar steel wheels and use winter tires on all four. Much surer during the winter time.

    Good luck.

    abfisch
  • gwestboundgwestbound Member Posts: 22
    Our Camry has been an excellent car in every respect. Outrageous bill padding caused us to part company with the Toyota dealer.

    The car was in the service department for a $150 inspection and oil change, notwithstanding the necessity for some inspection items was suspect. Front and rear brake inspection was included. Simply looking at them inspects front disk brakes. Inspection of rear drum brakes require wheel and drum removal. The service manageress approached me with a grim look on her face and told me the car’s brakes required cleaning, at $50 extra. Front disk brakes require no cleaning. Cleaning rear drum brakes with the drum already removed consists of dropping the drum on the floor upside-down from about 12” so the brake dust drops out, and blowing out the brake assembly with an air hose for a few seconds. In fact, most of the dust drops out when the drum is removed. I asked her if I looked like I had just fallen off a turnip truck. She looked a little sheepish. I haven’t been back since.

    We recently replaced our second car with an Acura. Early indications are the Acura dealer has an equally impressive but unnecessary inspection regimen. I’ll put up with it during the warranty period, but then it’s sayonara. My theory is the cars are so good Toyota and Acura dealers have to cheat to achieve acceptable service department profits.
  • lucksrvlucksrv Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased the 100K/7yr/$0 deductable for my 06 Limited for $985 (dealer cost). For THAT price I think it is a good deal. The first price offered was $1695 which essentially is the MSRP price. For 7 years of peace of mine, $985 was worth it to me, but I'm not sure $1700 would be. Remember, you can buy that Warranty from any Toyota dealer, and it is good at all Toyota dealers in the country. Shop around, I'm sure you can get it for under $1200 ,maybe lower.
  • sixpacktrsixpacktr Member Posts: 4
    Got underneath my car last weekend to change the oil. Draining the oil was no problem, but I looked high and low for the oil filter and never could find it. Wal-Mart sold a Fram filter for the car (same as my 2003 Avalon), but where is the filter? I saw, under the car, something that looked like an oil filter adapter, but it was capped off, and the way to take it off was witha a square key, kind of like an allen key but square instead. Is this the filter area? Is it simply the element that needs to be changed? The Toyota maintenance manual says nothing about an oil filter.

    Thanks.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Welcome to the world of filters from long ago, now making a comeback. No more spin-ons. The square hole is for a square drive..to remove the whole thing. The filter is inside. Another member can give you the exact details..but you had it right, the filter element is inside and not really visible. A prior generation filter will not work. Hope this helps.... :)
  • sixpacktrsixpacktr Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input. I thought that was what I was seeing, but wanted to be sure. Now for the $64 question (which may be closer than I want to admit). Where can I get one of these beauties? Obviously Wally World doesn't carry it, and the dealer will probably charge me as much as it costs for the whole oil change. Advance, or Autozone perhaps?

    Thanks.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    Go over to the 2005+ Avalon forum and run a search for messages related to "oil filter". You will find all you wanted to know and more. Filter cartridge price from mail order Toyota Dealers is less than $5 if you buy 10 at a time, otherwise closer to $6.

    The square plug is for access to a drain. An adapter comes with each filter element. Inserting it in the opening behind the square plug drains all of the old oil out of the filter. You use a 65mM cap-style wrench (type B at Wally-World, $3.99) to subsequently remove the filter housing and replace the cartridge.

    Download the PDF file referred to in one of the messages to learn how to replace and position the O-ring seals (new ones come with the filter kit).
  • brown3brown3 Member Posts: 26
    I just got an '06 XLS . . . as part of the deal I get free oil changes at the dealer every 5000 miles, but I was wondering . . . in the past, I've always done the first oil change on a new car at around 1000 miles, figuring the oil was picking up more "stuff" during the break-in period while the parts were wearing in. Is this still considered to be a good idea with new cars like the Avalon?
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    No harm done. Dealership sounds like a good one. If they continue to want your business, I am sure they would consider it.

    Good luck with the new one.

    abfisch
  • shysnowshysnow Member Posts: 3
    I thought it would be 6 of them because it is V6.
    I opened and replaced only three.
    I could not find more.
    Anyone knows?

    Thanks
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    There should be universal agreement in this forum, 'shysnow', that a V6 Avalon would need six sparkplugs for a complete tune-up. Some may be harder to find under the hood but they are there. Trust us...get 3 more plugs, change all 6, and enjoy your Avalon. Great cars. ;)
  • shysnowshysnow Member Posts: 3
    As I asked in #86, I found only three of them.
    3 more spark plugs are waiting for their home.
    Avalon is the great car, but some parts are little bit hard to maintenance by ourselves.
    Thanks.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Not a DIY person here..but let's guess. The three you found are in front near the radiator. The three you can't find are in the rear, between the engine and the firewall. There is an engine cover on top of the engine. Remove it carefully (may need an allen wrench). You will see lots of things: fuel injector lines, wires, etc. Plugs will be visible in deep sockets, with boots on the top. Remove plug boots, change plugs. Replace engine cover. Finished. You will need at least one extension on the socket wrench, maybe two, and a universal to reach these things as they are well hidden.

    Other members who do this all the time may have more details. Hope it helps..... :)
  • mem4mem4 Member Posts: 52
    I changed the oil in my '06 Limited for the first time this weekend (1000 miles). When I put back 6.4 quarts the level was above the upper mark on the dipstick. I had to remove 200-300 mls to bring the level down to the upper mark. Has anyone else had this happen? Did I just not get all of the old oil out? I had the car on ramps and more or less level when draining and I changed the filter.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    I have a couple of questions:
    Your use of the words "ramps" and "level" in the same sentence confused me. I raise only the front wheels (~4.5") because the drain plug is at the rear of the pan. Did you just drive on ramps in the front?
    Was your engine hot before draining the old oil. Cold oil can take a long time to drain out, and some cxan remain behind due to surface tension.
    6.4 quarts was perfect for me. Just below the full mark on the dipstick, with filter change.
  • n0v8orn0v8or Member Posts: 169
    I forgot the most important question: did you start and run the engine for a minite or so (to check for leaks) before checking the level on the dipstick? The level in the pan will be too high until the engine pumps oil into the new filter.
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