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My questions are:
1) Is there really a safety feature like that in the car? 2) Can there be damage to my car that could go undetected now but surface later?
3) If it was your car what would you do?
Ellen
2. I don't think so. Did the engine just turn off like you had switched the ignition off or did it lose power, sputter, etc. and eventually die? When an engine runs dry of oil, you just don't put oil in it and go on your merry way. So maybe there is some device that prevents such a thing from happening. And you still have a while before your warranty runs out, so don't lose any sleep over it. Also, do you notice anything different about the way it drives?
3. Make sure the "important" people like the owner of the dealership and Toyota know of the incident in case of future repercussions.
DNC
Some 2005 model year Avalon vehicles may experience a small/slow oil drip from the bank 1 VVTi oil supply line on the front of the engine. The oil pipe has been improved to prevent this condition.
Bank 1 is the firewall side of the engine, and the tubes they are talking about move oil from the cylinder heads.The fix involves a timing gear cover, some gaskets, and the oil pipe subassembly.
The TSB also notes this problem is covered by the 60k mile powertrain warranty.
If you have an early Av you might want to check with Calif. and find out if your will need the repair
I spoke with Toyota tech depart. and they indicated I could save a lot of money by using a salvaged ECU. (last resort)
Can anyone tell me what would be involved in replacing the bad ECU with a used ECU?
Do I have to stick with the same model year or can a newer/older ECU be used. (searched the net found a ECU from a 2001 XLS)
Any info would be a great help and thanks in advance.
Alex1015
There is also an Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) that comes into play when the vehicle is cold, allowing more air to get by an essentially closed throttle, and I think the ECU may also schedule more fuel through the injectors at that time as well.
You can learn more about this stuff on www.auto101.com, choose Technical articles and look for #24-26.
looks like when the engine is cold, the ISC bumps up the amount of air entering the engine to have it rev higher. a 100 rpm higer maybe based on engine coolant temp, but not 1000s higher than normal...
but it sounds like your vehicle is asking for way more air and fuel, almost as if your throttle position sensor is reading the wrong opening, or the throttle body is sticking, -or- something is causing your accelerator pedal to hang up (a floor mat?).
check the floor mat, then go for the Throttle Body and TPS. that's what I'd do.
Happened to me several times over the years, application of the brake pedal forces the mat down against the accelerator.
The gas cap is tight but i want to eliminate it.
How do i reset the light. I can pull the battery but
is there a Fuse that i can pull so as to reset it. If
it comes back then i go to plan B.
Its still a bit cold out there so instead of opening
the hood could someone tell me whether this model is
equipped with a OBD 2 device. a buddy has one but i
need to find out if it fits the car. dont want to drag
himall the way or me all the way to find out. There is
no autozone or anything like that closeby!
Picked up my Limited yesterday and on the way home it stalled twice! Plus a little gas leak I noticed as it was sitting for 2 minutes in my driveway, before I took the car back. Gee 16 miles on the car and 2 stalls.
Too bad I can't just return the car. I truly don't trust the car or want it. I just can understand how a new new new car off the lot has stalling problems. (with a full tank of gas).
First time toyota person and probably last time too !
the gas tank leak is another matter - again, if they don't replace something - i'd be curious.
if they won't give you a new vehicle, then perhaps you should tell them you want them to provide you with an extended warranty on their dime. you may have paid for a toyoguard and prep package.
if it were me - i wouldn't be leaving until (a) i felt safe in the vehicle and (b) i was satisfied.
cpo8usnret
cpo8usnret.
:mad:
This is not a big surprise that you are having problems. I don't think it's reflective of the Toyota brand, but rather the dealer where you purchased it from.
I myself buy American cars, and have had my share of troubles with them but can honestly say the quality has greatly improved over the years.
abfisch
Bob
Unless the smoke becomes obnoxious, your car could run for years with this condition. Perhaps more frequent oil changes might even help to correct it somewhat.
My '99XL was flawless at 92k when traded. Do not "treat" an Avalon engine. Change oil at 5k miles or 4 months whichever comes first. Follow the manual for all other fluids and the timing belt.
These cars easily go 200k when maintained properly. Front struts will be a likely problem at some point and check the battery cables for corrosion at the terminal on the battery. Common problems, as are front brakes.
Beyond that, enjoy....
I filled it up with 93 octane and got a fuel injecter celaner... but it doesn't seem to help... DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR TO ANYONE?? PLEASE HELP
Thanks in advance
but htis mornign it wouldn't turn over... I had to step on the gas and rev the enngine, then it started fine... all day...
I started it around 50 times today just to keep checking... it happened again just now... this is VERY troubling... Has anybody else heard of this problem???
and or cables or alternator.If you have a battery charger
charge the battery,clean the cables and try starting.If the
engines actually turns over but does not start then that is
a whole differnt problem,may be injecktors or dirty spark
plugs.
If the engine spins but does not start... different problem. But it might all work fine if you make a good battery connection. Without a good connection and a good battery charged to the minimum it's hard to go further and guess. Start there... (no pun intended )
Codes P0171 and P0174 -- dealer there replaced air flow sensor (part# 89467-41030) for $350 --
250 miles later on the way home from vacation, same warning lights are back on. Seems they didn't fix anything.
Any ideas???
code extractor on line or ebay for around $100 plus,this
will plug into your car and give you the same codes the
dealer give you,you then look the codes up in the supplied
book and depending how mechanically inclined you are replace the part yourself or buy the part and have a shop
install it for less than toyota shop.BTW code171,system
too lean bank one,174 system too lean bank 2.
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/1132128000000_1133769600000_EG050-05/501.html
Evidently there are TSBs for a number of models associated with this code.
It's possible that an accompanying 02 sensor is now failing and additional sensors need to be replaced, but who knows.
However, read the following:
http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9206
Also google your problem.
My advice would be to check to see if there is any hoses loose associated with the MAF or intake. Then if you can't find anything, call the dealership where you got the MAF and ask for a concession on additional work because the problem may be elsewhere.
Also, for $25 at www.tundrasolutions.com you can get every code/service bulliten/manual/ and additional photos and how-to for all Toyotas... my thought is, all though I may not do it myself, i have a an upper hand when going to get it serviced.. good luck,
DBM
Turns out the orginal service center diagnosed the problem correctly, and then replaced the wrong air flow sensor -- they replaced bank 1, but it was bank 2 that was broken.
BTW...Toyota dealer service advisors are not the brightest bulbs on the tree when it comes to 05/06 Ltds. When I take it for service I'm asked, "how do you start it?"
Bob