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Toyota Avalon Interior

13

Comments

  • brycovbrycov Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Avalon Limited with 3,500 miles on it. I am very happy with it thus far. However, the engine is noisy when cold and the transmission does occasionally hesitate when shifting. The dealer says both of these problems are normal and that they can't do anything about either item. I do have a minor problem as to how to reset the clock. The 2006 Avalon manual shows a picture with reset buttons below the clock. My car does not have reset buttons. I called the local dealer and they said to bring the car in so that they could reset the clock. This sounds ridiculous and is inconvenient. Does anyone know how to reset the clock on a 2006 Avalon?
  • rsblaskirsblaski Member Posts: 68
    Get ready for another goofy user interface with this car.
    First, if you do not have the nav option, I can't help you. If you do, press the "menu" button. Then scroll to the "adjust time" button. You will then find buttons to pick your time zone and whether you want daylight saving time. Then press "ok" and you will find that NOTHING CHANGES!!!
    After you do the same thing about 5 or 6 times, just forget about making the adjustment in the setup menu.
    Now press the "info" button and at the top of the next screen, you will see a small button labeled "adjust time."
    Press this button and you will find the options to pick the time zone, auto. dst, and auto adjust. Make your selections, press "ok" and you will be back on time.

    If this isn't one of the dumbest things I've ever seen, it sure comes close. I would say that this makes the lame brained nav system look almost easy to use. :P :P :P
  • brycovbrycov Member Posts: 2
    I do have NAV and I pressed the "Info." button and then adjusted successfully the time per your instructions. Thanks for your help.
  • tacomarydertacomaryder Member Posts: 1
    anyone ever had a problem with the master switch on the left door ? i replaced it and still only the right front door rools down what could it be ?????
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i have the same car and the left driver window has failed a few times. a few bangs on the inner door has go things working. the last failure was about an yr ago. do you spray you car with oil aka rustproofing,
  • bigwill1bigwill1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I am thinking of changing out my cloth seats in a '98' Toyota Avalon for leather seats. Now would I need any additional brackets, bolts etc or would it be an even exchange meaning I can just use the screws and bolts from the cloth seats and just change em out? Thanks!
  • pusatekmpusatekm Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a 2006 Avalon XL. Does anyone know where I can buy the door sill plates that say Avalon on them (like on the touring model? Also, has anyone replaced the factory 6/12 inch door speakers? I have the 6-DISC in dash unit but not the JBL. If so what brand and model did you use and did this improve the sound? Did it also help the vibration/rattle when the base is turned up?

    Thanks
    KMP
    2006 Toyota Avalon XL
    1996 Toyota Avalon XL
    1972 Oldsmobile 442 Convertible
  • james1997james1997 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Avalon and bought it used about 2 years ago. Now my front passenger and rear driverside windows (funny they are diagonally) are not working. I checked for power and they have. I checked the switches and they work. I checked manually the power window works fine when powered directly. I tried looking for the fuse but couldn't find the fuse in the engine compartment and driverside underdash fuse box area. Is there another fuse box for just the power windows? Help.

    Proud to be a Avalon owner.
    James
  • master1master1 Member Posts: 340
    I'm not sure but it's probably your window motor. Take it to a dealer or mechanic - it shouldn't be a big deal to fix but will cost some money.
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i have had intermittent power window issues maybe an yr or so back. gaveit a little bang in the inside and it worked. do you oil spray your car during winter.
  • james1997james1997 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Master1,
    Thanks for the reply. I check the motor and it goes up and down manually with a direct contact from the battery. Some how the switch is not working with the wires. The wires have juice to the motor and switch. I tested the switch to see if it works with the other windows and it works fine.

    Have a nice day,
    James
  • james1997james1997 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Deepan,
    Hey I'll try that might work.

    Thanks,
    James
  • oregonoregon Member Posts: 9
    We just bought a new 2006 Avalon XLS. I am taking it in for some minor fixes and thought I'd mention it here if anyone has some ideas. The first is an easy fix - driver side fog lamp lens is loose. The second, and last, is a tick/click in the dash somewhere under the steering column. I probably would not even hear it except I usually drive without the stereo on. Anyway, the dealer will say it's nothing or they cannot find the cause. Just wondering if anyone has heard this tick (more ticks on rougher roads) and found the solution.
    Thanks for any help.
  • melbcmelbc Member Posts: 31
    Does it sound like a squeak or creak when you step on a wood floor?

    MelBC
  • oregonoregon Member Posts: 9
    No melbc - it sounds like a tap. A bundled wire harness could make this sound if it was close to the dash housing - just close enough to hit intermitently. Anyway, very minor - I love the car! Had a Camry Hybrid on order, but got tired of waiting. Now I'm happy they couldn't find it!
  • wabbit1wabbit1 Member Posts: 4
    I have had many Toyotas and overall I am extremely pleased. I rarely even consider looking at other brands. But

    I must say that front seat comfort isn't Toyota's long suit. Perhaps their seat designs are well-suited for a statistically shorter and lighter Japanese population, but are they using the same seat designs for a generally taller and heavier American population? There seems to be inadequate leg support. My '97 Camry's seats weren't all that comfortable, but at least they were a bit softer than the Avalon. I didn't really notice a problem on my test drives because shorter drives aren't too bad, but on a longer drive my butt literally goes numb. Also, my 6'2" husband easily finds a comfortable driving position, but I (5'6") sometimes have to fiddle around a lot with all of the position controls to get comfy.

    Overall I am pleased with the car, but the seat comfort is my major complaint. Our base model Tacoma's seats are more comfortable.
  • 72hudson72hudson Member Posts: 1
    I would like to prevent the doors from locking automatically when the car is put into drive or reverse.Or even auto unlock when the car is put into park.

    As it is now every time I stop I have to unlock the doors to prevent my passengers from yanking on the handles when they wont open.
  • cjponlinecjponline Member Posts: 17
    Can anyone recommend a source for disassembly / assembly instructions for interior surfaces? I have an 06 Limited and would like to hide radar detector power cords, install a permanent NAV bracket etc into the dash.

    I just need to know the tools and methods to remove surfaces and reassembly without damaging parts.

    Thanks!
  • mem4mem4 Member Posts: 52
    The best source is the Toyota Service Manuals. However they are expensive, around $350 for the set. You can also purchase a 1 day, 1 month or 1 year subscription to the Toyota on-line database. The one month cost me $50 and you get to view, copy and save PDF files to your computer. Here is the address: http://techinfo.toyota.com/index.html
  • cjponlinecjponline Member Posts: 17
    I did try techinfo.toyota.com, but I couldn't locate disassembly instructions. Lots of wiring diagrams, etc, but I could not specific instructions to remove interior panels.

    Thanks
  • sambesuesambesue Member Posts: 3
    On top of all the other problems with my 2006 Avalon,I have discovered another.The windshield is foggy on the inside!Today I asked the serviceman at my toyota dealership if they had any idea about how to fix this and he said just keep cleaning it!HELP
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Not only your windshield should be "foggy!" ALL cars, when they are new, experience "out-gassing" from all the vinyl & plastic and that fogs ALL your windows -- especially in warm weather. You simply need to clean the windows repeatedly with a good, non-ammonia based window cleaner and soft, lint-free cloth.

    There's no way around it!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    when it is particularly humid, or raining, you may discover putting your vent to the windshield, turning your AC on max cold, and making sure it's in fresh air rather than recirc will prevent your windshield from fogging on the inside.

    however, if you discover that this doesn't solve your problem, i would expect your windshield (if coated with a grimy slippery film) is actually being caused by a leak in the heat exchanger of the coolant/radiator system, i.e. coolant would be getting airborne in the cabin.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I might add that this does not just happen when the cars are new. It can happen for many years, as the plasticizers in the vinyl keep vaporizing off. I have had cars do this after even ten years. This is the downside for all those people who like a lot of soft touch vinyls in the interiors of their cars.

    It hardly happens at all in the winter, but if the cars sits in the hot summer sun during the day, you will have to clean the insides about once a month, or maybe even oftener if you live in the desert southwest.
  • thegadgetguruthegadgetguru Member Posts: 27
    You would think that if this is a known problem for as many years as badgerfan is claiming (ten years), then it seems that since the problems have been identified that it's strange that not a single manufacturer has come up with a solution to this problem.

    I'm thinking this problem may be limited to Toyotas as I have never experienced this with any other car I have ever owned and I live in Sunny South Florida! Possibly this means that Toyota is using some sort of coating on it's vinyl/plastic products that is causing this problem.

    Quality control at its best!
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Nope. It happens to ALL cars that use vinyl. I was always cleaning my Ford's inside windows in the Summer (it can get up to 115 here in the Summer).
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I don't own a Toyota, however it has occured on my GM and Ford vehicles, dating way back to middle 1980's vehicles and even earlier, if I recall.

    I don't think there really is a solution, other than getting rid of all soft touch vinyls in the interiors of vehicles, which I doubt if any consumers will want to give up. Maybe the chemical engineers are working on it.

    I am really surprised if you haven't had this occur in South Florida. All it takes is sitting in the sun during a about 9 hours a day, 5 days a week in Wisconsin during the summer. The hotter the weather, the more quickly the deposits occur. Hardly any for about 7-8 months of the year.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    And don't forget that for those that smoke in the car the residue from that will contribute to "filming" the windows.

    There are some automatic climate control designs that are much more subject to windshield fogging/misting than others. Mostly those are of asian origin using a design by NipponDenso or in the US, Denso US.

    Basically if your system automatically switches from footwell airflow into dash/footwell or dash only as the cabin temperature rises to your setpoint then you have one of the subject systems. It is only in one of the footwell modes that a portion of the system airflow is routed to the windshield to help prevent fogging.

    Another test is to simply switch into defrost/defog/demist mode during cooling operation and see if you get WARM airflow to the windshield.

    And don't forget that either source, or both, for that thin film on the windshield will actually accelerate the fogging of the windshield should that surface be at or near the dewpoint.
  • bobwileybobwiley Member Posts: 241
    3 solutions: To clean use Rain-X Window Cleaner---BEST I've ever used!! Go it at Wal-Mart---don't let the wife see ya use it---you won't get it back!! Seriusly--GREAT window cleaner. It's usually kept right with the rest of the Rain-X stuff in the Automotive Dept. Next--get a Dash Mat---wouldn't have a car without one---inside temps in the car in excess of 125 degrees and the sun just "bakes" the vinyl/leather. 3rd--Put on a good coat of Maguiars/Turtle Wax or any other quality Leather Protectant--I've done all three and haven't had any "fogging" problems in 100+ degree weather. Good Luck!
    Bob
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Most leather protectants and waxes have more out-gassing substances than does you origin OEM vinyl.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    maybe i've never had this problem because i've never owned a car with leather seats (i mean predominately faux leather seats). :shades:

    when i clean the plastic (yea) in my LX class vehicles, i use water ONLY. when i clean the inside of my windows, i use Windex.
  • thegadgetguruthegadgetguru Member Posts: 27
    Maybe I've escaped this problem by keeping it in the garage!
  • magrezzamagrezza Member Posts: 11
    I wish to add the following, in regard to this discussion:

    1. Rain-ex works well, however, beware that it will cause your windshield wipers to wear out faster. Considering the cost of Avalon's propietary wipers, this could be a consideration. Inasmuch as this works, RAIN-EX is NOT window cleaner, rather, a window treatment.

    2. If you live in a climate with any type of humidity, and you drive with the windows open, the inside of the windshield is going to continue to get a film, of sorts, on the inside. I speak of this from 16 years of life in the Caribbean. Due to how much I HATE cleaning my windows, I NEVER EVER drive with them open. I literally open and close as fast as possible. This may very well be the film you are describing, which believe me, has NOTHING TO DO with gases from vinyl and leather in the car. I have proven this to myself, over and over again, where each time I decide to "save gas" by opening the windows, they get fogged up in three days, to the point where I can't see out of them at night.

    3. It is not necessary to use ammonia-free cleaners, unless you have aftermarket window tinting. If you do, however, and you use windex ONCE, you can ruin your tint, as it WILL turn indigo blue.

    4. I never spray any products inside my car--always on the toweling material, and then wipe. If you get vinyl products on the glass, you will be cleaning glass a while. If you get ammonia or alcohol on your vinyl, it will dry.

    5. The very best vinyl product is Vinylex by Lexol--available at Pep Boys, or online at Bavarian Autosport.

    6. I can't imagine putting something as cheap and tacky on my $44K (no, that is not a typo) Avalon as a dash mat. If you have all windows tinted--yes, ALL, with the darkest legal tint in your state, NEVER leave the car without the back shade up, the sunroof shade closed, and a reflective window shade in the windshield, you will have no heat problems. My cars are not garaged, stay in full tropical sun all day long, and I have no problems with heat, or drying leather or vinyl.

    7. Leather seats, as nice as they are, can be a lot of work to keep up, unless you don't mind dried, stained leather. Again, Lexol products are superior to cheaper ones. If you live with either extreme heat or cold (not many don't), then I recommend cleaning and conditioning every 6-8 weeks. Remember, YOU CANNOT RESTORE MOISTURE TO VINYL OR LEATHER, only make it look better. It is like hair; once it's damaged, there is only so much you can do--preventing drying is the best defense.

    8. While I'm typing--if you want your paint to look it's best, avoid "one step" products. Effective paint care requires three, yes three, steps: Clean, Glaze, and Wax. I always do two coats of the last two, and this means five, yes, five, coats on the car (in my case every three months). If you take the time to do this, your car will look new for as long as you own it, literally.

    All just my opinion, however, after years of trial and error experience, and always detailing my own cars, or, hiring people to work with me under my very direct supervision.

    Regards, to all.
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Just a comment on the window film. Our average humidity is less than 20% and temp in Summer is generally betwenn 85 and 110 deg. F. My '06 LTD gathers film that has to be removed with window cleaner (I use Stoners) at least every two weeks. If the windows are left open a little while the car sits in the sun, the film doesn't appear so quickly.
  • thegadgetguruthegadgetguru Member Posts: 27
    Absolutely Great Advice! It's refreshing to hear someone using common "car care" sense as opposed to blaming window hazing on vapors emitted from plastic. That sounds like something a dealer's Service Manager would say as an excuse.
  • bobwileybobwiley Member Posts: 241
    magrezza: What I advised folks to use was Rain-X Window Cleaner--not the regular Rain-X Window Treatment. Can't imagine a $44K Avalon unless you're Canadian? I have a LOADED 06 Silver Pine Mica Limited--Nav, Laser Cruise, VSC & Trac Control Remote Start, XM Radio, body side moldings, spalsh guards, pin stripes, wheel locks, floor & trunk mats, spoiler, dealer installed tinted windows and window wind deflectors--MSRP was $39,715. Only other option was DVD System--about $1,900 and $220 if ya got the special Blizzard Pearl paint. Please list the options that brought your Avalon to $44K?! I failed to menton that I use Vaseline on the leather---nothing better---moisturizes and keeps it soft--just like when momma used it on us! Learned that trick from a guy who has spent over 40 years in the detail business. BTW---the dash mat matches the dash and works great.
    VR
    Bob
  • magrezzamagrezza Member Posts: 11
    Responses to above:

    1. In Puerto Rico, taxes on vehicles that have an MSRP of about $25K or more, are about 30%; I have a 2006 Blizzard White Limited, no XMS, no Nav, No autostart, No wind deflectors, No spoiler, and everything else you list above, otherwise. If the vehicle's base MSRP is higher than about 60%, then, in some cases, the tax can reach 100%. A new Mercedes S Class, for example, prices out at about $140K.

    2. Whatever the climate or humidity, I certainly vote for the climate effect, as opposed to any strange gases that are fogging our windows. My advice, based upon comments here, is that we all test combinations of open and closed windows, and do whatever works best. In my case, for example, if I literally only open my windows to talk to security guards at gated communities I visit, I can go two months without having to clean the inside of my windshield. If leather and vinyl cleaners and protectants give off gas, then they certainly don't fog your windows. I use so much of this stuff that my friends make fun of me when they get in my car, and I've never had gassed windows from use of these products.

    3. My apologies for the misunderstanding about Rain-ex. I wasn't aware that they made a window cleaner. I'm sure it's very good. I still wouldnt' use the windshiled protect on my car, for reasons previously mentioned.

    4. Car washing tip: I use my Ortho garden sprayer more for my car than anything else. No bucket needed; simply pour a couple tablespoons of car washing liquid in the container, and set as you wish. Spray works to rinse, and also spray product on the car.

    5. Another note: you should NEVER, EVER, EVER--even if you are going to wax your car--use any type of dishwashing detergent on your paint.

    6. I have proven to myself that, even car washing products that claim to "not strip wax" can, if you use them in a high concentration. If your car is very dirty, DO NOT use a lot of cleaner, rather, wash the car two, or even three, times, as necessary.

    7. NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, use any "no touch" alloy wheel cleaning products on your alloy wheels. What do you think is strong enough to remove brake dust without rubbing--ACID, of course! Even when used as directed, over time, you will remove the clearcoat on the wheels. I use the same product for wheels as my paint, along with a stiff wheel brush, and they look as good as the day I bought the car. I also recommend that, if your dealer washes your car as part of service, CLEARLY STATE that they are not to use such products on your wheels. I once had the wheels of a new BMW convertible ruined BY THE DEALER when they did this to my car. They obviously left whatever they were using far too long, and masked this with silicone spray. It wasn't until one week later, when I washed the car myself, that I realized my wheels had NO LAQUER. They refused to respond, and I had to have them clear-coated at a body shop to hide the damage!

    Regards, to all!
  • bobwileybobwiley Member Posts: 241
    Wow---and we thihk we're taxed--I feel for ya!! I agree wit all your NEVER's--right to the point. Also, NEVER wash or wax a car in the sunlight. Something that works well to get off brake dust--WD-40--YES WD-40---won't harm anything--it's fish oil based! Maybe what we need is aForum with all the "little" car cleaning tips folks have learned.
    Bob
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    You must work for the oil companies -- encouraging petroleum based products to be used on leather (Vaseline) and wheels (WD-40)!
  • bobwileybobwiley Member Posts: 241
    nimimi: Sorry--not associated with the oil companies! Check out WD-40--it is fish oil based--not petroleum! Vaseline works great--so I use it! I "gob it on", close the windows on a hot day and then go out and rub more into the leather/vinyl--soft as a baby's bottom!!
    Bob
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    Gee, Bob. The WD-40 I have says "MAY BE FATAL. . . contains petroleum distillates." Doesn't sound too "fishy."
  • bobwileybobwiley Member Posts: 241
    I'll check the can---I use WD-40 for many things--getting the sticky stuff off after you remove price labels, keeps rust off saw blades and spray it on you fishing lures--works better than the expensive fish attractants! FYI--WD--stands for Water Displacement and the # 40 is because it was the 40th formula that worked. It was developed in 1953 to protect missle parts. Workers were so impressed with it, they begang to "borrow" it! About 2.5 million gallons are produced each year. The Statue of Lberty loves it--they use it to protect her! Go on Goggle and read about WD-40---it'll amaze ya! You're right about the petroleum--original formula was fish oil based-----the distinctive smell was from a fragrance added during brewing.
    Bob
    Bob
  • nimiminimimi Member Posts: 249
    It works great for getting moisture out of the distributor (on older cars)!
  • captain2captain2 Member Posts: 3,971
    Can't imagine a $44K Avalon unless you're Canadian
    down here in Texas, see them all the time - mostly courtesy of an outrageous 18/19" wheel and tire packages (can't think of a better way to screw up a perfectly good car) at 6-8 grand!
    and these would be distributor installed, down here Gulf States Toyota who has a tendency to do such things!
  • mrsincere7mrsincere7 Member Posts: 40
    I too am experiencing the same problem. I am not able to set the clock on my nav ( 2003 avalon ). I already did what you suggested before I read your instructions. But when I click on info and adjust time, highlight yes for auto adjust, or highlight H or M to set the clock manually, it wont accept any commands. Also my nav doesnt register fuel usage, distance, avg mpg info, nor outside temp. Do you have any suggestions?
  • 49364936 Member Posts: 15
    Hi I too, had same rattle on a 2000 XLS. The solution, buckle right seat belt. It rattles against the plastic door post.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Here's the link: dandydon2, "Toyota Avalon - Basic maintenance questions (oil changes, fluids, etc.)" #212, 7 Jan 2007 10:28 am.
  • jmbkljjmbklj Member Posts: 19
    I did a search and could not find the answer. I don't like the light colored wood I've seen in the Avalons. Is it true that some of them come with the darker wood? If so, I haven't seen any. Which interior colors include the darker wood?

    I really like the Pine exterior color but it only comes with the blonde wood, I think. I am wondering if this might change for the 2008's??

    Right now I have a 2001 XL because I like cloth seats and it has the dark wood. I guess it's impossible to get that in a 2007....and probably for a 2008?
  • tjc78tjc78 Member Posts: 15,895
    The "graphite" interior gets the darker woodgrain on the XLS and Limited. XL and Touring don't have woodgrain.

    My '03 XL didn't have wood trim at all, was yours aftermarket?

    2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve

  • jmbkljjmbklj Member Posts: 19
    No, my '01 XL was not aftermarket, as far as I know. I believe it was still an option at that point in time that I requested from the dealer and that is how I received it from the dealer.
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