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thanks
The dealer said the starter and the harness wires were burned out, and, the computer (ECU) may have fried too. They said the cause could be the new battery I bought at a Shell Gas Station two months back in December, but he could not confirm it.
The dealer quoted $3,200 to replace the starter and the harness wire, and, another $1,600 if the ECU has to be replaced.
What is DOES sound like is that your starter shorted out or "hung" after you started the car....it then overheated from being constantly engaged or "motoring", and this fried the wiring harness.
If you have comprehensive insurance this might be covered, I'm not sure.
I can't begin to tell you how gtareful I am to have found your post explaining the wiring for hooking up trailer lights on my Avalon. You saved my bacon.
Thank You!!
The battery is an integral, ABSOLUTELY an integral part of the charging system's VOLTAGE regulation. Without the battery in the "loop" you will probably get voltage spikes on the order of 30 to 50 volts. Obviously that can do serious damage, QUICKLY, to the electronics in your car.
The flickering you describe is most likely the result of poor connections to the battery or maybe even a bad or failing cell in the battery itself. I would first remove the battery connections, with the engine OFF, then clean and burnish the battery posts and connections.
As I recall, the choices are 60, 30 and 0 seconds.
Does anyone know how this procedure can be done by the owner, at home?
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Pretty much I have nothing working bellow the CD player.
Could this be a fuse problem or?? Please help me.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Background:
I have a 1996 Avalon that was recently involved in a wreck. It was hit from the rear and then the front hit another car. The damage *looks* mostly cosmetic. I drove the car for a day without issues, then the next day it won't start.
Symptoms:
Put key in ignition: Dash lights up, regular "beep beep" when key is ignition.Good signs.
Turn key to "acc": Dash lights up, radio works, clock comes on, e.t.c. Good signs.
Turn key to "on": Dash dims. Multiple, rapid "click click click" appearing to come from under dash near glove compartment. Accessories/lights dim and come on with clicking.
Attempt to start car (not pressing brake pedal): Clicking stops, dash lights dim till amost off. Engine will not turn over.
Press brake pedal, with key in ignition but not trying to start: Dash lights dim till almost not visible.
Fuses checked: Main ones look good. Ignition fuse has light "browning" on it through the viewing window
Misc: The battery has full charge (tested it) and does not appear to lose it after sitting for days. When I first thought it was the battery I was able to get the car to start (only tried once) by jump starting it, though starting was difficult (solenoid clicking, but started didn't want to turn very well). I drove it around a bit and the dash/headlights dimmed whenever I stepped on the brake.
Thanks!
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
thanks
What happens when you have all four doors locked, come to a stop, and shift to Park? Do any of the doors unlock automatically?
Also, I noticed something else. The trunk release on the dash seems to be tied to the door locks as it stopped working at the same time. Just noticed this. All this seems very strange to me.
The trunk lid wiring goes through one of the trunk hinges and is often pinched enough to blow fuses.
AC started acting out of whack next. Shut off for a few seconds and turned right back on. Sometimes, AC wouldn't work at all. Mechanic changed AC relay and suggests it's the AC control unit. Am a student and need to think twice before spending that much money.
Can anyone please suggest possible diagnoses and fixes? Thanks a million.
On each of these occasions, the battery was drained when I next tried to start the car ---- I had the battery checked at 2 places including a Toyota dealer and each time the technical readout said the battery was fine.
Is it possible that turnoff off the car while in Drive instead of Park could be causing this problem? Anyone else having a similar problem? --- Thanks for all replies.
This is one more post to confirm what the many have said, "It (the green eye) just means the battery has a certain number of volts." It's true. I replaced the '07 battery yesterday... 47 amps... and an "eye" as green as a golf course. Watch for the warning signs: Slow to start, some lights flicker, dome light dims, over 3 years in service, etc. Mine made it to the dealer, barely.
Thanks to all who have mentioned this in the past. Enjoy the Avalon, great cars..
When we tried to jump start it, it wouldn't turn over. Found out sometimes you have to wait 15 - 30 minutes for the computer to realize the battery is recharged (my guess, confirmed by a Toyo tech. They're not sure why.) Anyway, do yourself a favor and do what Consumers Reports recommends, replace your battery after four years, just to keep life simple.
One of the best buy batteries is the Wal-Mart one at around $70, and they put it in free. Otherwise, my Toyo dealer only charged about $110, which wasn't too bad.
Denny
Sounds like you possibly have a short in your CD circuit.
Electrical problems can be very hard to chase down, and most mechanics won't work on them because it takes so much time and owners get agitated at the cost.
Did you try Googling "Toyota Avalon 2001 wiring diagram"?
If that doesn't work, call the dealer and get an estimate. Maybe it's a known problem to them. Don't turn them loose on it without a firm estimate.
Good luck!
Denny
I have 2008 Avalon Limited. I had all the problems you had. My battery kept draining and I went through three batteries, all the while, the dealership insisted it was my fault for not driving the car enough. The last time it happened a few weeks ago I took the car to another dealership who did a more thorough examination. The culprit was a faulty stereo amp that would not shut off when the car was turned off. I had it replaced under warranty.
If I had not had the extended warranty I would have argued the problem started under original warranty, because this issue began before the manufacturers warranty expired. Don't let them blow you off.
With the key type ignition, you will not be able to remove the key from ignition. Try leaving your transmission out of park overnight with the key in the ignition. By morning your battery will be discharged.