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Steve, visiting host
I also talked with the local Mercury Service manager. I told him the first time I tried to start the Villager after the 3 kills, it was like the battery was dead. I red status dash lights did not even come on. I tried again and it started right up. He suggested it may be the ignition key tumbler. As he suggested, I sprayed WD-40 in the lock and it works much smoother now. I have only taken it on a few small local trips without any problem so far.
Don
http://findatricles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828is_199802/ai_n8803858/print
Bad grounds are notorious for villager drivability problems, i found out the hard way spent thousands and pulled my hair out at inept mechanics. hope this helps.
http://findatricles.com or look for bad grounds.
By the way, thanks for all the tips, since I'm female it's really nice to have a little info BEFORE I go to the repair shop!
Andy
texaseitz@sbcglobal.net
I run it only on premium now and it runs fine. I wonder if it is the timing belt stretched and the timing is off?
up.has anyone experienced something similar? any suggestions?
When we bought or 97 Quest GXE in 2000 with 64k on it and it was pristine but as it turned out a little over done under the hood with the steam cleaning.
After 2 months the van started bucking and stalling and after a week of that it died...we took it back to the dealer where they found the distributor had a bad (dried and rusty)bearing (cleaned to well..lol)
So they replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one and all was well until about a year ago (now 140k) when it started chugging now and then (especially on idle)and with a little hesitation.
So I did the usual...Fuel pump,fuel Filter and air filter...
It still was not right,(but a little better) so yesterday it was time for the plugs...the ones (platinum plus)I took out were not bad at all for 50k on them.
I also cleaned under the cap and used compressed air to blow out any debris before taking out the plugs.
Felt like a nice clean job.
When I started it up everything seemed fine...just a little chug on idle (drat).
It wasn't till I revved up the engine while under the hood that I heard a strange loud whirring (like a worn bearing noise) sound which tunned out to be coming from the DISTRIBUTOR, this sound could not be heard on idle or from inside the van while driving
I used the screwdriver to the ear trick to make sure that was where the noise was coming from and sure enough.
So in conclusion I would say that the vibration and probably sticking distributor are to blame for my vans idle chugging and hesitation.
I hope this was helpful and if anyone else has any input please post.
Thanks.
Craig.
Question: I have a rattling sound that I think is coming from the distributor. Do I need a new distributor?
Answer: You probably don't need a new distributor. A rattling distributor on these motors is usually an indication that the timing belt is loose. The timing will stretch and become loose with age. This is a sign that you need to replace the timing belt. The early model Quests and Villagers were specified to have the timing belt replaced at 60,000mi. intervals while the later model Quests and Villagers are specified to have the timing belt changed at 105,000mi. intervals. I firmly suggest you keep up with the timing belt maintenance. The good news is that the Quest/Villager does not have an interference engine and will not suffer major engine damage should the belt break. The bad news is that will be stranded and have to call a tow truck if the belt breaks. Click here for information on a DIY timing belt change. Also, be aware that the 3.0l V6 engine in the Nissan Pathfinder and Maxima IS an interference engine.
I'll wind up doing the same parts replacement thing one of these days since most of the parts are original on my '99 (just passed 120k miles).
Still, when it does break down, it'd be nice to get it fixed on the first trip to the mechanic.
Steve, visiting host
I just bought a 96 mer villager which does this exact same thing. The fuel pump was replaced a year before we bought this. We just replaced the fuel filter and it still stalls. My question is, what is the speed sensor is this something only a mechanic can place? Can they check it first?
I must say this was no easy job mostly because of the lack of space to work in and the time it took this novice to peel away the layers to get to just the belt.
Anyways short of replacing the fanbelt(s) tensioner bearings she is running sweet.
excellent forum.
Thanks.
I have similar issue with 96 quest. I donot know where to start either.If you would know please share with me. I would share if I come across some kind of resolution...W eshare the same issue....Thank you....Naren
The Villager is just a re-badged Quest.
The Quest/Villager does not have an interference engine and will not suffer major engine damage should the belt break. The bad news is that will be stranded and have to call a tow truck if the belt breaks. Click here for information on a DIY timing belt change. Also, be aware that the 3.0l V6 engine in the Nissan Pathfinder and Maxima IS an interference engine.
I have the same problem on my 95 villager with the engine not turning over at all when you let it sit for a short while. Came back a few hours later and it started and ran normal. Did you ever figure out what was the problem?
Oh, yeah - the Mercury dealer went out of business.
Ideas?
cmitchell5, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Issues" #113, 16 Jan 2006 8:09 am
And there's always the Nissan dealer since the '95 Quest is a twin.
Did anyone figure out what those relay where. Im having the same problem with my 95 villager. After about two weeks now the car has not started. thought it was the starter. The list so far i read are: fuel pump, two identical relays under the hood, grounding.
I access that database online free through my public library; see the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide.
If you can't get access, shoot me an email and I can send the diagrams to you via pdf files.
This link has factory manuals for free download, but I didn't check to see if wiring diagrams are included.
I changed mine on my 97 Quest last year because my engine dogged when I first started it in the morning.(for about 3 seconds)
Didn't cure the dogging down so I'm thinking the pressure regulator maybe stuck open a little...anyone?
It drives fine although the it idles a tiny bit rough when warmed up to normal.
nae borrah.
Last year I was trying to fix this same problem and thought I had it fixed by replacing the distributor with a rebuilt one.
I had the van running fine, and it sat all winter because it was our third car, needed a brake line and rear brakes,,,and the kid did not have his liscence yet, Well I'm making sure the engine is running fine before I spend the money on the brakes.
Though I had it but here is what is happening now.
I ran the van for at least 40 minutes, to make sure the stumbling problem went away, and it seemed ok, The next day repeated this process.... My son noticed that the heat inside was not working.
So , I decided to replace the thermostat, since it had been a while and the van sat all winter.
I replaced the thermostat, and while I was at it went ahead and replace the water pump too.
Fired things up, Still no heat, Air locked line.
Had to remove the top and bottom hose from heater core, fill with some water, not heats ........ During this I found a very small leak in the rear heater core line, that I plan to fix.
Ran the van like this for several hours on and off to test the engine function.
The next day repeated this and now when the van gets up to temperature, it just stalls out.
There check engine light comes on... If I try and start it will not start. I pulled the codes.... and got an Ignition code and cam shaft sensor.... which is in the distributor.
I unhooked the negative side of the battery, to clear codes...( I know bad cause it clears all drivability stuff)
The Van starts for a second with no engine code,,,,then stalls back out and sets the code.
I gave up and let the van set over night, Morning it starts up fine,,,,ran for about 1 hour, no problems, Shut off let sit for 1 hour, Repeated started run with hood shut
van shuts off ...
This problem does not seem to be the same as the one I had when I replaced the distributor.....The distributor is still under warantee and I may send it back to be checked. I can't open it to check the optics, it is sealed.....
I think there is a component that gets warm and is causing this to happen, I am at wits end with this..Just about ready to send it to the junk yard..... but I am really determined to figure this out.
Tonight I am going to double check the grounds to the CPU, and a Relay that I read about on another forum...
I do not want to keep buying small parts to try and solve this, I may need but a TPS
DO you know if I can run the van with the TPS Throttle Position Sensor disconnected?
When I have measured individual components resistance and stuff like that,, all seem fine when components are cold....Not sure what my next move might be.
Can you or anyone else help me?
Why does it only start idling rough and stalling after it has reached normal operating temperature? What could that have to do with it?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks