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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    How old is your battery?

    Steve, visiting host
  • larson7078larson7078 Member Posts: 3
    My battery is about 3 years old.

    I also talked with the local Mercury Service manager. I told him the first time I tried to start the Villager after the 3 kills, it was like the battery was dead. I red status dash lights did not even come on. I tried again and it started right up. He suggested it may be the ignition key tumbler. As he suggested, I sprayed WD-40 in the lock and it works much smoother now. I have only taken it on a few small local trips without any problem so far.

    Don
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Interesting; I'll have to remember that trick for my '99 Quest if it starts acting up.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    Hi Druid, have you tried checking all grounds including HIGH RESISTANCE on the neg battery cable? Check out this web site-

    http://findatricles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828is_199802/ai_n8803858/print

    Bad grounds are notorious for villager drivability problems, i found out the hard way spent thousands and pulled my hair out at inept mechanics. hope this helps.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    My vehicle did the same thing. Bad grounds! I had HIGH RESISTANCE on the neg battery cable. Change it and clean up all grounds and see if it helps
    http://findatricles.com or look for bad grounds.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    I have had the very same problem with my mer villager.Tell your mechanic to pull out the distributor and clean the debri off the photo sensor and re-install it. I have spent thousands trying to fix this very same problem. hope this helps.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    I have had the very same problem with my 98 Mer Villager. I have had dirt build-up on the photo sensor on the distributor. The Nissan tech just cleaned it up and re-installed it. He told me if it happens again, the distributor will have to be replaced. This is a common problem with villagers/quests.
  • drea9418drea9418 Member Posts: 1
    Been reading all your posts on this issue and so far we've changed the plugs, the wires, the distributor cap, the rotor, the fuel filter and the air filter with no help in the bogging out problems when we're idling. However, have an appointment with the shop friday to check for a loose ground wire at the ECM. Will let you know if that solves the problem.

    By the way, thanks for all the tips, since I'm female it's really nice to have a little info BEFORE I go to the repair shop!
  • rsheedyrsheedy Member Posts: 1
    Just discovered today problem with 1999 Villager with the same issues, the bearing had failed in the top of the distributor I replaced it and now it runs like new. A Ford dealership could not find the problem.
  • aseitzaseitz Member Posts: 5
    Still dealing with the same issue. Have replaced the trans computer, the cruise control computer, and the VSS. Have checked the VSS wiring and also the ground for the ECU. Nothing has helped. I have an output speed sensor on order from the local dealer ($28 so why not?) but it won't be in until Friday. Vehicle still runs and drives well except for when it decides to do the hesitation thing. We've take 3 trips of more than 500 miles with no problems. It once went 271 miles before the check engine light came back on - we thought we had it fixed but no such luck. OD light still flashes 16 times on a warm start. Check engine light code is P0500 - vehicle speed sensor malfunction. We need to get this resolved as the state inspection is expired. Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated!
    Andy
    texaseitz@sbcglobal.net
  • os545os545 Member Posts: 1
    I have had some similar problems with my 97 Quest. I tried the throttle position sensor with no luck. I had already had a new fuel pump and filter installed about 6 months ago so I ruled that out.
    I run it only on premium now and it runs fine. I wonder if it is the timing belt stretched and the timing is off?
  • 90zcar90zcar Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone I have a 95 Nissan Quest with 247k miles has been very reliable with the exception of the vans engine cutting off sometimes when I make a left turn. It starts right
    up.has anyone experienced something similar? any suggestions?
  • jaggiebunnettjaggiebunnett Member Posts: 10
    Hi all, heres a related problem.
    When we bought or 97 Quest GXE in 2000 with 64k on it and it was pristine but as it turned out a little over done under the hood with the steam cleaning.
    After 2 months the van started bucking and stalling and after a week of that it died...we took it back to the dealer where they found the distributor had a bad (dried and rusty)bearing (cleaned to well..lol)
    So they replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one and all was well until about a year ago (now 140k) when it started chugging now and then (especially on idle)and with a little hesitation.
    So I did the usual...Fuel pump,fuel Filter and air filter...
    It still was not right,(but a little better) so yesterday it was time for the plugs...the ones (platinum plus)I took out were not bad at all for 50k on them.
    I also cleaned under the cap and used compressed air to blow out any debris before taking out the plugs.
    Felt like a nice clean job.
    When I started it up everything seemed fine...just a little chug on idle (drat).
    It wasn't till I revved up the engine while under the hood that I heard a strange loud whirring (like a worn bearing noise) sound which tunned out to be coming from the DISTRIBUTOR, this sound could not be heard on idle or from inside the van while driving
    I used the screwdriver to the ear trick to make sure that was where the noise was coming from and sure enough.
    So in conclusion I would say that the vibration and probably sticking distributor are to blame for my vans idle chugging and hesitation.
    I hope this was helpful and if anyone else has any input please post.
    Thanks.
    Craig.
  • jaggiebunnettjaggiebunnett Member Posts: 10
    found this too....

    Question: I have a rattling sound that I think is coming from the distributor. Do I need a new distributor?

    Answer: You probably don't need a new distributor. A rattling distributor on these motors is usually an indication that the timing belt is loose. The timing will stretch and become loose with age. This is a sign that you need to replace the timing belt. The early model Quests and Villagers were specified to have the timing belt replaced at 60,000mi. intervals while the later model Quests and Villagers are specified to have the timing belt changed at 105,000mi. intervals. I firmly suggest you keep up with the timing belt maintenance. The good news is that the Quest/Villager does not have an interference engine and will not suffer major engine damage should the belt break. The bad news is that will be stranded and have to call a tow truck if the belt breaks. Click here for information on a DIY timing belt change. Also, be aware that the 3.0l V6 engine in the Nissan Pathfinder and Maxima IS an interference engine.
  • aseitzaseitz Member Posts: 5
    Our issue was in the speedometer head itself. The signal from the speed sensor was not getting to the engine computer. The dealer had to replace part of the speedo. Ended up costing a little under $700 ($200 parts) :) but everything seems to work correctly. What a relief!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    How many miles are on your '00? (it is an '00 iirc?). You probably needed to replace most of that other stuff anyway before finding out that it was the speed sensor connection to the speedo was bad. Sounds like an unusual issue though.

    I'll wind up doing the same parts replacement thing one of these days since most of the parts are original on my '99 (just passed 120k miles).

    Still, when it does break down, it'd be nice to get it fixed on the first trip to the mechanic.

    Steve, visiting host
  • cbc3cbc3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello
    I just bought a 96 mer villager which does this exact same thing. The fuel pump was replaced a year before we bought this. We just replaced the fuel filter and it still stalls. My question is, what is the speed sensor is this something only a mechanic can place? Can they check it first?
  • jaggiebunnettjaggiebunnett Member Posts: 10
    (97 GXE)replaced My timing belt,(and the water pump) the old one was like a flag in the wind and now no whirring from the distributor.
    I must say this was no easy job mostly because of the lack of space to work in and the time it took this novice to peel away the layers to get to just the belt.
    Anyways short of replacing the fanbelt(s) tensioner bearings she is running sweet.
    excellent forum.
    Thanks.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    Have the mechanics pull off the distributor and clean the photo electric eyes on it. Sounds like to me just a dirt build up on it. good luck.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    My 98 mer villager did the same thing, cost me thousands before the nissan dealer found "dirt build-up" on the photo sensor on the distributor, he just cleaned it off and re-installed it, runs fine now.
  • npatel5225npatel5225 Member Posts: 1
    Hello: 90Zcar

    I have similar issue with 96 quest. I donot know where to start either.If you would know please share with me. I would share if I come across some kind of resolution...W eshare the same issue....Thank you....Naren
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    Hi Jaggi...Can you explain in some detailas to what a interference engine is. I have a 98 mercury villager 3.0Ltr. thanks, E
  • jaggiebunnettjaggiebunnett Member Posts: 10
    E, as far as I know it is the same engine.
    The Villager is just a re-badged Quest.
  • jaggiebunnettjaggiebunnett Member Posts: 10
    Here is also something I posted before that I found..........

    The Quest/Villager does not have an interference engine and will not suffer major engine damage should the belt break. The bad news is that will be stranded and have to call a tow truck if the belt breaks. Click here for information on a DIY timing belt change. Also, be aware that the 3.0l V6 engine in the Nissan Pathfinder and Maxima IS an interference engine.
  • rharrelsonrharrelson Member Posts: 1
    for about a week it acted like i had put bad gas in it spitting and stalling this went on for about a week then it finaly just shut of and will not crank at all can some one help , tell me what to check?
  • dtran67dtran67 Member Posts: 4
    johnny23,
    I have the same problem on my 95 villager with the engine not turning over at all when you let it sit for a short while. Came back a few hours later and it started and ran normal. Did you ever figure out what was the problem?
  • davidwrightdavidwright Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 95 Villager GS. She recently went to a non-dealer service center for a complete tune-up - plugs, distributer, fuel filter plus other stuff. Shortly after this, it started stalling when accelerating briskly from a start, maybe one time out of 10. If you just start VERY slowly, no problem. After the stall, it would start right up again. She went back to the service center, they said it was timing. It wasn't. She went back again, they said it was the mass flow air sensor, charged her $368. That wasn't it either. Now she won't drive it, and it's my problem.

    Oh, yeah - the Mercury dealer went out of business.

    Ideas?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I've seen a few posts about the throttle position sensor (TPS) getting out of whack, especially for intermittent issues. Here's one example:

    cmitchell5, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Starting & Stalling Issues" #113, 16 Jan 2006 8:09 am

    And there's always the Nissan dealer since the '95 Quest is a twin.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    My advice would be to take it to the Nissan dealer. These engines are nissans not Fords. Ford techs may not know the codes. I learned the hard way on this. I have had a lot of problems with my 98 villager and found it payed to have it diagonsed once at the Nissan dealer than to take it elsewhere and play the "replace game" which is costly. To me it sounds like a distributor problem , maybe dirt on the photo sensor on the distributor. hope this helps.
  • landon3landon3 Member Posts: 3
    Landon3

    Did anyone figure out what those relay where. Im having the same problem with my 95 villager. After about two weeks now the car has not started. thought it was the starter. The list so far i read are: fuel pump, two identical relays under the hood, grounding.
  • dtran67dtran67 Member Posts: 4
    From the electrical diagram that I read. It appears that the inhibitor relay is the problem. this relay is what energizes the seleniod and the starter. I replaced it last week ($32 from a Nissan dealer). I have not driven it very much to be 100% sure. I will update in a couple weeks.
  • landon3landon3 Member Posts: 3
    Well I figured out the problem with the 95 villagers start when it whats to. Its in the ignition switch its the positive wire to the starter coil we by passed the ignition switch. Replaced it with a seperate starter switch. A little old school but it works, untill you can afford to pay $100 hr to a automotive electrical specialist . It will get you by, good luck.
  • chi3solchi3sol Member Posts: 1
    Change the distribuitor ,after spend my time changing everything posible .ingnition wires,sparkplus, distribuitor rotor etc I change the distribuitor and ruuuunnnnn fine after 2 years now the car stop and don't start . ;)
  • landon3landon3 Member Posts: 3
    Im looking for a electrical diagram, from the ignition switch to the starter coil. anyone know where i could get one?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Auto Repair Reference Center has Villager wiring diagrams for the '96. There's three for the starting/charging circuit (depending on whether you have anti-theft).

    I access that database online free through my public library; see the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide.

    If you can't get access, shoot me an email and I can send the diagrams to you via pdf files.

    This link has factory manuals for free download, but I didn't check to see if wiring diagrams are included.
  • bigmark1bigmark1 Member Posts: 5
    hi i have a 96 villager when its cold it runs flawlessly but when it warms up to normal operating temp it begins to jerk and buck and the problem gets progressively worse QUICKLY 5 min. or less it will eventually stall it can be restarted but idles very rough and the exhaust smells like rotten eggs i have pulled the trouble codes and the only one i get is a code 34 as flashed on the check engine light i am completely stumped can you please help ....thank you in advance
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    Bigmark1 I have written a lot about this very same problem. I made the mistake of spending thousands trying to fix this problem. The very best advice i could give is take it to the nissan dealer (NOT FORD) ! Ask them to do a diagnostic , and tell them to check ( the distributor photo sensor ) ask them to check for dirt build up on it! Like im said i spent tons of money from other technitions/garages before i had it towed to the nissan dealer (they found the problem in 15 min) Hope this helps.
  • ziggyzaggyziggyzaggy Member Posts: 2
    My 93 Villager doesn't always want to start. If I turn the key to the on position sometimes I can hear the fuel pump(then it will start) and sometimes I can't(then it won't start). Is my fuel pump toast or is it an electrical problem? or something else?
  • jaggiebunnettjaggiebunnett Member Posts: 10
    If you don't hear the pump initially then there is a problem with the pump or it could be a simple wiring issue but more likely the pump is on its way out.
    I changed mine on my 97 Quest last year because my engine dogged when I first started it in the morning.(for about 3 seconds)
    Didn't cure the dogging down so I'm thinking the pressure regulator maybe stuck open a little...anyone?
    It drives fine although the it idles a tiny bit rough when warmed up to normal.
    nae borrah.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    So was it the distributor?
  • wormdadwormdad Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Villager that has had a bad hesitation for some time now. I replaced the ignition coil, fuel pump, plugs, and wires. I thought it might be a blown head because it started overheating but I figured out the fan was not running. As for the no heat inside I changed the thermistate and it did not help. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • graham66graham66 Member Posts: 13
    Hey, I have a 95 villager that I'm trying to fix for my kid to drive,
    Last year I was trying to fix this same problem and thought I had it fixed by replacing the distributor with a rebuilt one.
    I had the van running fine, and it sat all winter because it was our third car, needed a brake line and rear brakes,,,and the kid did not have his liscence yet, Well I'm making sure the engine is running fine before I spend the money on the brakes.
    Though I had it but here is what is happening now.
    I ran the van for at least 40 minutes, to make sure the stumbling problem went away, and it seemed ok, The next day repeated this process.... My son noticed that the heat inside was not working.
    So , I decided to replace the thermostat, since it had been a while and the van sat all winter.
    I replaced the thermostat, and while I was at it went ahead and replace the water pump too.
    Fired things up, Still no heat, Air locked line.
    Had to remove the top and bottom hose from heater core, fill with some water, not heats ........ During this I found a very small leak in the rear heater core line, that I plan to fix.
    Ran the van like this for several hours on and off to test the engine function.
    The next day repeated this and now when the van gets up to temperature, it just stalls out.
    There check engine light comes on... If I try and start it will not start. I pulled the codes.... and got an Ignition code and cam shaft sensor.... which is in the distributor.
    I unhooked the negative side of the battery, to clear codes...( I know bad cause it clears all drivability stuff)
    The Van starts for a second with no engine code,,,,then stalls back out and sets the code.
    I gave up and let the van set over night, Morning it starts up fine,,,,ran for about 1 hour, no problems, Shut off let sit for 1 hour, Repeated started run with hood shut
    van shuts off ...
    This problem does not seem to be the same as the one I had when I replaced the distributor.....The distributor is still under warantee and I may send it back to be checked. I can't open it to check the optics, it is sealed.....
    I think there is a component that gets warm and is causing this to happen, I am at wits end with this..Just about ready to send it to the junk yard..... but I am really determined to figure this out.
    Tonight I am going to double check the grounds to the CPU, and a Relay that I read about on another forum...
    I do not want to keep buying small parts to try and solve this, I may need but a TPS
    DO you know if I can run the van with the TPS Throttle Position Sensor disconnected?
    When I have measured individual components resistance and stuff like that,, all seem fine when components are cold....Not sure what my next move might be.
  • l_sriraml_sriram Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 2004 Quest minivan 4 years back. Since August I have been experiencing this Starting issue. My van won't start in the morning. But after some hours if i start it will start with out any issue. I have given it to the dealer but he could not find. they even asked me to drop the vechicle for some days. Like Murphys law, during those periods it worked. When it happened last week, I went and dropped it at the dealer, he asked me to changed the battery and it worked at that time. Now it did not start today 5/5/2008. Does anyone has any suggestions where to start?
  • yca2vsyca2vs Member Posts: 1
    efitzgerald....I'm experencing the same problem with a '99 Nissan Quest, could I have the same problem. Also only because money can be an issue, do you know where to find the Distributor Photo Sensor, and can it be checked by another mechanic or myself.
    Can you or anyone else help me?
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Member Posts: 62
    These villager/quests are notorious for this, especially when they get 7-10 years old. The photo sensor is deep in the distrubutor. I could only access it when it has been taken out by a mechanic. I wouldnt recommend taken yours out. I would recommend going to a scrap yard (as a new one is $600) and have a mechanic take your old one and replace it. I paid 60 for a used one, and another 75 for a install. The van runs fine now, like i said, i spent thousands trying to find the problem from Ford, Candian tire, midas muffler after being told it could be your catalitic convertor, then finally i had it towed to a nissan dealer and in 15 minutes they said it was a dirty distrubtor, cleaned it up and it ;lasted about 9 months then it started to act up again. Went to a scrap yard and replaced it ...runs great now. By the way mine is a 98 villager with over 300,000 kms on it and running strong.
  • villagerdrivervillagerdriver Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 villager w/ 160k miles is doing the same thing. Limped into the Nissan dealer today after replacing multiple parts myself (fuel filter, spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, TPS) and trying an independent garage and the Mercury dealer. The Nissan dealer said my distributor is "coming apart" down inside the engine. I am assuming a bad bearing, gear, or something. They have not replaced yet. Quoted a replacement price of $575.

    Why does it only start idling rough and stalling after it has reached normal operating temperature? What could that have to do with it?
  • shadow31shadow31 Member Posts: 1
    I have a mercury villager 98 with 3.0ltr. Just starting doing this, hard to start when hot. When cold she starts fine and runs fine, but when warmed up and sits for 5 min after being warmed up, she starts hard, have to depress accelerator to get going. After that she runs. I replaced plugs, cap, rotor and even the ECT that a friend suggested could be a problem. Still does the same, can it be a bad ground??

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • villagerdrivervillagerdriver Member Posts: 3
    Found out why the van only misses when warm and gets worse the warmer it gets. The bearing was bad on the distributor. As it warmed there would be more and more play in the distributor and the timing would not be right.
  • rbrown03rbrown03 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Nissan Quest that starts fine when the car is cold. But after running for twenty minutes or so if I shut it off and return in an hour it is very hard to start. And when it does start I can smell gas fumes as if too much fuel had been injected. Once the car is running it runs well it only has 95,800 miles. Can anyone help.
  • rbrown03rbrown03 Member Posts: 3
    I had the exact same problem with my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took my car into my local Nissan dealership on 8/25/2008 and they diagnosed the problem as leaking fuel pressure regulator. Total cost for the repair $400.00 parts and labor.
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