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Comments
I say apparently because I don't really trust what the mechanic did and it took them all day to diagnose the problem. But it's been running ok since.
So, please get the codes read and come back with that report, and someone mechanically minded should be able to suggest some ways to proceed. Like you say, it could be multiple things.
Steve, visiting host
P0325 Knock Sensor 1Circuit (Bank 1), P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected, and the last one P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected and the meter showed a little Pd symbol after it.
I checked the plug wires at the distrubtor cap and at the plugs, one by one and they were clean, corrosion free and secure. I took the distributor cap off and it was nice and clean. The car was my wife's and only has 37,000 miles and she didn't work so it was in the garage most of the time. The rough running starting very suddenly.
Anyone following my posts will see that I had a combination of error codes, specifically P0303 and P0325 the infamous knock sensor. Anyway I eventually did what I usually do first with a rough running car and poured a bottle of Gumout into the gas tank. After a very short idle period it smoothed out then I erased the error codes, drove it around a couple times, re-checked, no more error codes. Moral to the story, check the basics first. Much cheaper than going to the dealer and don't rely on the codes.
Steve, visiting host
Hope that helps
This problem is intermittent. Van may work for months with no problem, then occurs every few days. Probably worse in cold weather (Ohio), but has happened in warmer weather also. Any thoughts or similar experiences and fixes would sure be appreciated!
And HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!
Is it just using pressured air flow the sensor all over?
Regards,
The computer did not give out any codes but armed with a service manual and some tools I managed to check and clean lots of components under the hood. Most of the components checked ok.
The problem was solved by changing ignition wires and distributor cap. I could have saved money by getting aftermarket parts, but instead I decided to buy OEM at the dealership and pay three or four times as much.
That is nothing compared to the problems that may be compounded by buying cheap auto parts made who knows where. I do not advise anybody to buy aftermarket parts unless it is an old US vehicle.
She described the van as having had a "stroke" about 12 months prior with multiple electrical problems--tach stopped working, fuel and temp gauges worked marginally, window operation probs, radio inoperative, etc. The great side of all this was that all systems required for typical operation or inspection were working just fine. As I was ready to leave with the van, the owner related that a recent mechanic had described the alternator as putting out too much current and thought this was responsible for the many electrical failures. One last thing, the check engine light was on.
I took the van to AutoZone and had OBD checked. The only code was a knock sensor fault. The alternator and battery were checked and given thumbs up. Van was running great, so I took my time in working through the issues. In short order I repaired windows--master switch replacement, radio--fuse, interior lights--bulbs, and so on. Car ran great for 8-9 thousand miles then began to exhibit periodic missing/stumbling episodes. This was sporadic then would clear on its own. I couldn't determine if this was a fuel or electric problem. On the one hand there was the history of electric probs per previous owner. On the other hand there was the occasion where I filled up with fuel and 7 miles later car was missing significantly as if fuel contamination. Over next 2 weeks, van was irratic in performance but began downhill trek. Finally, car left me walking. I reviewed the forum listings and saw a number of similar problems. I saw many attempted repairs but not a lot of definite fixes. I decided to work the distributor over. Upon removal of the distributor and removal of cap, rotor, and top components, I noted stray metal shavings and pieces in bottom of distibutor. Upon closer inspection, the top distributor bearing was missing the top dust shield and maybe 4 of the bearings. It looks as if the metal shavings may have been causing unintentional grounding. I cleaned all this out, reinstalled distributor, and started van. Van ran beautifully from 1st turn. I have new distributor coming in couple days and expect van to continue to run properly. Will post again and give results after several weeks.
I am the original owner of a 99 Quest with almost 185k miles (original distributor, knock on wood). All in all it's been a good van but my tranny is beginning to shift rough in all gears, so I don't know how much life is left.
Good luck with yours and keep us posted.
Said 3 injectors were not working 100 % - I've run a lot of injector cleaner through them - Lucas, Seafoam, Chevron didn't help much. I don't know if I should try replacing the injectors or go after the distributor like many do. How do you know if it's the distributor? I've tired looking for metal shavings on the top, but don't know how far down into you have to go to find them. Where is a good place to order one and what is a good price to pay. I don't want to just put parts in it for the fun of it.
Thanks for your help in advance.
*I cleared the KS code after replacing the distributor and it never came back. Your results may vary.
*Check Ebay for the distributor. As of today, numerous NEW units are available for just over $100.
*You absolutely do not need to pay a mechanic to replace the distributor. It took me all of 15 minutes to replace it. Just remove the cap and wires from the old unit, mark the position of the old unit on the block, remove the retaining bolt and slide the distributor up and out. Installation is the reverse of removal. Just make sure to line up the new unit with the mark on the block from the old. Easy-peasy!
The problem was worse with the Air Conditioner on and the engine hot. I replaced the plug wires with OEM and the iridium plugs and it instantly cleared the problem up. I'm in KS now with a heat index of 105 and running the AC and not one miss or cutout. Have driven over a thousand miles since replacing them and still running better than ever.
When I had problems with my 99 Quest I replaced ignition wires, rotor and distributor cap with OEM parts purchased at the dealership. No more problems.
I reasoned that if the first set lasted 10 years, the second set would do the same.
When you use cheap after market parts you are playing the lottery.