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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Transmission Problem
GM does not back there products and have the worst warranty in the buisiness. Before buying a Chevy Astro, look at the consumer complaint posts on the National Highway Transportation Safety Board for models 1996 and later. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/index.html
Myself and several other consumers had the exact same same problem. Conveniently, at 48124 miles, just 12000 miles and 5 months after the warranty expired my transmission went out and I was charged 1800 dollars for a new transmission. You will notice a and abrubt gear shift from first to second after about 30-45 minutes of driving. Do you want a vehicle that has a transmission go bad at less than 50000 miles? Maybe, maybe not. But if you do, I bet you sure want the company that sold you this defective product to back it up and pay for the fix. Well, folks, Chevy (GM) will not. After several letters, e-mails and phone calls, I finally got a response. I'm sorry but since the warranty expired there is nothing we can do. Well, I'M SORRY TOO CHEVY, SINCE YOU MANUFACTURER INFERIOR PRODUCTS, YOU HAVE LOST A CUSTOMER FOR LIFE AND GAINED NEGATIVE PR FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE.
If there are any Chevy managment folks viewing this post, please feel to e-mail me. I will be glad to provide details.
If you are a prospective buyer, I most strongly suggest that you buy a like vehicle from one of the other manufacturers who produces a more reliable product or offers a better warranty than Chevy (Not hard since Chevy has one of the worst).
If you insist on buying a GM product, I strongly urge that you get yourself the extended warranty.
BETTER YET! DO NOT BUY A CHEVY UNLESS YOU LIKE GETTING TAKEN TO THE CLEANERS. THEY DO NO DESERVE YOUR BUISINESS!
Myself and several other consumers had the exact same same problem. Conveniently, at 48124 miles, just 12000 miles and 5 months after the warranty expired my transmission went out and I was charged 1800 dollars for a new transmission. You will notice a and abrubt gear shift from first to second after about 30-45 minutes of driving. Do you want a vehicle that has a transmission go bad at less than 50000 miles? Maybe, maybe not. But if you do, I bet you sure want the company that sold you this defective product to back it up and pay for the fix. Well, folks, Chevy (GM) will not. After several letters, e-mails and phone calls, I finally got a response. I'm sorry but since the warranty expired there is nothing we can do. Well, I'M SORRY TOO CHEVY, SINCE YOU MANUFACTURER INFERIOR PRODUCTS, YOU HAVE LOST A CUSTOMER FOR LIFE AND GAINED NEGATIVE PR FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE.
If there are any Chevy managment folks viewing this post, please feel to e-mail me. I will be glad to provide details.
If you are a prospective buyer, I most strongly suggest that you buy a like vehicle from one of the other manufacturers who produces a more reliable product or offers a better warranty than Chevy (Not hard since Chevy has one of the worst).
If you insist on buying a GM product, I strongly urge that you get yourself the extended warranty.
BETTER YET! DO NOT BUY A CHEVY UNLESS YOU LIKE GETTING TAKEN TO THE CLEANERS. THEY DO NO DESERVE YOUR BUISINESS!
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Comments
Chevrolet Motor Division
Customer Assistance Center
PO BOX 7047
Troy, MI 48007-7047
RE: 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO VIN# 1GDM19W9VB228729
Dear Sir or Madam:
On August 1, 1997 I bought the above vehicle from you through Bob Stall Chevrolet, La Mesa, California. On September 6, 2000, it developed the serious defect of abruptly shifting from 1st to 2nd gear after approximately 30 minutes or 17 to 20 miles of driving.
Upon, taking it to the dealer, I was informed that I needed a transmission replacement at a cost of an estimated $1800 dollars, which I was forced to pay $1823.99 to get my car back in a drivable condition. Dealer service invoice is attached.
The warranty has recently expired but I believe I am still entitled to a free repair because the existence of such a serious defect in a car, which has only done just over 48,000 miles, indicates it was not of acceptable quality when I bought it. Several independent transmission shops have confirmed this opinion. It is obvious that if the public knew that this vehicle’s transmission had a tendency to fail at 48,000 mile, Chevrolet would not be able to sell this Van.
Ordinary wear and tear could not account for this problem so soon in the life of the vehicle. I am a careful and conscientious owner as the general condition of the car shows. I also have ensured that all periodic servicing has taken place as listed in the owner’s manual. I have not done anything to the car to cause this defect.
After, returning from the dealer, I did research and found this exact problem had visibility though several different entries on the Department of Transportation’s NHTSA web site database, (http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/compmmy2.cfm) for both the 1997 Chevrolet Astro and GMC Safari. I also have reason to believe that Chevrolet has issued a technical service bulletin on this problem for the installed transmission.
I am a loyal customer of Chevrolet. As a result of this experience, I would definitely not buy a Chevrolet product again unless the company made good on this situation. I definitely will tell people about this matter. I believe that this kind of service will have a negative impact on Chevy's business.
I'm sure that Chevy wishes to correct this situation as quickly as possible, so I am asking for a full refund of $1823.99 for my costs. I will, then, consider this situation fully resolved.
I currently have a Chevy unresolved customer service number of C01642150.
It happened all the way home from off the freeway to driveway (approx 4 miles). Was all prepared to rush it over to GMC dealer this morning, but no symptoms and couldn't repeat problem to dealer when I got there??!!?? Anybody have this similar problem with their Safari/Astros???
Also is your luggage rack missing screws on the cross bars? (front & back, better check)
As for the roof rack, it is installed at the dealership. The missing screws are not an uncommon problem, but the service manager should recognize it as inattentive and sloppy work by one of his low-level technicians and take care of it for you.
Good luck.
And found the trans fluid 3/4 qt low
Brake fluid 3/4 reservoir low
1 pint of anti-freeze low
I should've checked it out better since it was a 1999 model still new at dealer in oct00
and mfg date of 11/98
Will take your advice on leaving the van running when I get to the dealer
Was wondering if when the shifting starts to act up if I shut off ignition and restart will the problem go away for that moment.
Hate to take the van on a short trip and it starts up//Don't like being stranded on side of road//Thanks again for your advice
I'll let you know if it starts up again after a short drive like last time
I contacted cac@gmc.com
They have totally ignored my e-mails
So I take it there is a known problem with the
transmissions in these vans. And in not responding to the e-mails, they can use the excuse
"oh, I never got it"
So buy the extended warranty on this van and get ready to use it
I also contacted regional offices but another deaf ears and also
waiting to hear from them (yeah, right)
On the positive side, this won't leave you stranded (it's probably harder to get the symptom to recur). "Limp mode" is a designed response that protects the transmission from damage. The "hard shift" feels bad, but it's not harmful to the transmission. Just the opposite; the slippage that makes the shift smooth is harmful when it is excessive.
So, talk with the service manager about the problem and tell him you will bring it in when it's happening. A friendly, realistic attitude usually works best. After all, it's not his fault that the transmission is giving you trouble. And likewise, the cost of repair isn't coming out of his pocket. His job is to respond effectively to the customer's legitimate complaint, but he needs to document why he authorized the expenditure. That's why having them pull the code and experience the symptoms is so important. If you do this, I really don't think you will have a problem.
My only concern for you is that the 3 year warranty will expire before you can document the problem. That's another reason to be talking with the service manager. If you're getting close to the three years, ask him to document your complaint via an entry into the GM service computer. Remember, the warranty is a contract. 3/36 doesn't mean 4/46. My experience is that they are "a little" generous if it's close and if it's documented. But if it's neither of those, you can save your breath.
Bye-the-way, has the problem ever happened a second time?
In any case, don't be afraid to use the van; and don't resign yourself to a bad outcome. Follow my advice and it will work out o.k. It will be a bit of a hassle, but life's that way.
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
and was told it possibly was the switch interlock and the cost of repair would be about $100.
I had learned how to by-pass that switch by starting the engine and slowly turning the ignition key switch a little forward and could shift out of park that way as going to the GMC neutral start procedure was not always working .
I got fed up , got a flash light and located the switch (white plastic) attached to the steering post, this switch has a vacuum hose attached to it .
While pressing on the brake pedal I notice that there should be a pin of some sort which should be released from the switch when the brake pedal stop plate was depressed .
I pulled out the vacuum hose attached to the back of the switch and depressed the pedal again and the switch pin (red plastic ) came out when released by the stop (contact plate). I noticed that the pin was streaked with black and possibly dirty .
I used some electronic cleaning spray fluid in the hose input and on the pin and activated the brake pedal while observing the pin going in and out with no apparent stickiness .
I reconnected the hose and repeated the brake pedal action and all is working well now .
As I had a new brake job done three years ago the brake pedal was high, I surmise that dirt entering the plunger pin made it sticky and could not be released out far enough when the brake was applied , this stickiness combined with a residual vacuum pressure is strong enought to prevent the inner spring from pushing the pin out when the brake is applied .
Chevrolet's Customer Assistance Center was useless -- saying they couldn't do anything because there was not an official recall or service campaign in effect for the problems. To add insult to injury, a couple of weeks after paying for a new transmission, I received a recall notice because the warning beep for the seat belts was not staying on long enough to meet the Federal standard.
I'm glad somebody is watching out for the big things.
On a trip last spring, the majority of the transmission oil blew out the vent hole while driving down the freeway. This was the first time I realized it had a problem. I too had the fluid/filter changed and the service code reset after that incident. Everything worked fine for about 2 weeks, then the problem re-occurred.
Has anyone seen any posting on other web sites about this problem?
I have a 1997 Chevy Astro Van with 45K miles. Just like the other responses posted here, when I get off the freeway, and after a stop sign, the transmission had an adrupt shift from 1-2 gear. This is the clue the tranny starts to go bad. I took my van to the dealer and they confirmed it needed to be replaced with a new(rebuild) one.
Lucky for me, it was under warranty.$2,300 repair.
I like the interior room & overall shape of this vehicle but wish the quality was better.
p.s does anyone know how to disengage the daytime running lights?
Everyone honks at me when I go to
a drive-in movie.
The General does recommend tow in 4th or overdrive to reduce the torque converter heating of the transmission. I assume the 99 has the tow mode button on the transmission, 97 does not have this. But if the transmission is doing a lot of hunting and dropping in and out of lockup then you need to bite the bullet and lock it out by down shifting.
That's all I know or maybe more.
Jim
Coonhound, just something about transferring loads from grade 8 bolts to spot welds I don't like. BTW the metric grade 10.9 exceeds SAE grade 8.
Thanks again- Andy
The '95 was the extended with the 190HP engine, the aero nose (well, as aero as it could be) but did not have the new dash configuration. The 190HP was available as an option in '94, possibly earlier. As I have said before, don't run premium in these CPI engines unless you just like replacing injectors...
Jim
I asked the parts man what is the weak link in the system and he said it is the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the central port assembly.
And I believe what you say about premium fuel, I assume it eats up the plastic injectors. I had one injector replaced under warranty just after purchasing the van with some 27000 miles on it. And have read on this post where there are more injector problems with California blended fuels.
If GM builds the best automatic then there must be some real junk out there.
You probably have covered this site where this one guy post about a fleet of these things with minimal problems. Two or three transmission problems on 97 models.
I also have another issue with the Astro. There is a clunking noise coming from the front pass. side suspension. During hard braking and turning left I get the noise. The harder the turn, the more different clunking sounds it makes. I took it to the dealer with 35000 miles on it and they said my front shocks were bad with leaks and replaced them but nothing else wrong. Now the noise is much more frequent and louder with 48000 miles on it. Is my ball joint going to come apart, and shouldn't the warranty cover this if it is a problem, since I reported it while still under warranty?
For me, it was the most costly in a long line of out-of-warranty repairs on my 1997 AWD Astro. All totaled, I've had more than $5,000 in post-warranty repair bills. Needless to say, I'm not much of an Astro advocate. Good luck.
#2 Are your sure the tranny is filled to the proper level?
#3 Did they fill unit with the proper Dexron III?
Disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so will reset the code memory. So I am sure that it takes a little while after startup for the code to return.
I always worry about whether or not the replacement filter is completely plugged in and seated.
Astro. GM does not offer an aux. cooler for this van and says that it has a heavy duty cooler.????
Most of the duty for the van is to tow a 30' Award travel trailer, and if I am out on a 110 degree day with the air on I probably need some additional cooling. Even with the semi-synthetic transmission fluid.
Windshield wiper recall. Took the dealer about 10 minutes or less to replace the circuit board.
I have Mobil 1 gear lube in the differential.
I agree with info. in post like #356, 357, & 359.
I have a 2000 Astro van with 48800 miles on it. I would not have expected to have a transmission problem at this year and mileage.
Last week I had a “check engine light’ activate. The computer was scanned for codes and it showed P1870. This code indicates the transmission is slipping. After researching the code and problem I found that this is a common code for General Motors 4L60E transmissions. This transmission is used in most if not all Astros and Safari vans. It is also used in many of GMs pickup trucks. I found that most, if not all of the 4L60E transmissions have a problem with a spring-loaded valve located in the valve body, which is inside the transmission housing. This is most likely a defect in the transmission, but GM will not admit it because of an expensive recall that GM would have to pay for.
The spring-loaded valve in the valve body wears in its round hole causing it to stick and causes the transmission to slip and the P1870 code to appear in a computer scan. The valve can be replaced by reaming out the hole and placing a superior after market valve and spring in the new hole. This generally corrects the problem. The cost for this valve replacement is about $400.00. If you take the vehicle to GM they will replace the entire valve body, which contains the same old valve and spring. The cost for this is about $800.00 and you can look forward to the P1870 code in the future.
Well, my transmission was destroyed by this slippage. The transmission shop pulled the pan and the oil was like molasses. It needs a bunch more than a new valve. At this time my van is still in the shop. They will need to pull the entire transmission and rebuild, or possibly replace it. The cost for this can be about $2000.00. Fortunately I purchased an extended warrantee when I purchased the van. Hopefully, all I will need to pay is the $200.00 deductible.
The spring-loaded valve only activates at speeds above 45-50 MPH. If you are climbing a hill above this speed and the valve fails to function, a check engine light is likely.
I hope this will alert others to the problem.
Thanks
Rick
On a hot day and long drive tranny shifts hard from 1st to 2nd (real hard) once van has cooled problem goes away.Recently had a tranner service down on it (new gasket and fluid) problem didnt go awayAnything I can do to prevent a major tranny repair.
Identical problem here. It has been hot outside and tranny rough shifts in low gears. Wife took it to Mechanic today and got estimate of $1050 to $1850 depending on parts (plus fluid). Says it may crap out soon, or last another 15K before failure. (Sorry that flush and fluid replacement didn't help. I was going to do the same thing.)
I’ve started a new thread for the Aux Tranny cooler for ’98 Safari. I’m curious what size you installed, light, medium or heavy duty (this being the largest in size). Is it placed infront of the Air conditioning coil of the radiator and does it compromise radiator cooling capabilities.
1- When you say easy install, that typically means for me it will take 3X as long to install it.
2- This could be a stupid question, Does the radiator have piping coming into it to cool both the tranny and the engine oil.
3- Can the tube connection be removed from the radiator without kinking the tubing.
4- Will the extra tubing correctly dress snug against the frame or will it dangle and get damaged.
Thx for any info.
-gary
The cooler I used is the medium duty, I pull a 4000# camper. It attaches to the front of the a/c coil. I don't notice any cooling problems but, I installed a 180 deg thermostat a couple of years ago when I had to replace the leaking intake manifold gaskets. My temp never goes above 190 even in 90 deg weather unless I draft a semi. I usually drive 70-75 in 3rd to eliminate the downshift to 2nd. The trans will not downshift until the speed drops to around 55 but, it will do it at every incline on the freeway. If you keep it at 70 it never does. The trans cooler lines are on the passenger side of the van, the oil cooler lines are on the drivers side. You take the upper trans cooler hose off from the radiator(this is the return line to the trans)and you attach one of the rubber tubes from the new cooler to that line. It will rest against the frame without any damage. The other line from the new cooler will attach to the radiator where the upper line from the trans used to connect. You will need an adapter piece that is sold seperatly from the cooler kit to screw into the hole on the radiator. This setup allows the hot trans fluid to go thru the bottom line into the radiator cooler than it goes out the upper line into the new external cooler and back to the trans in the upper line that is now attached to the new cooler. You get double the cooling and the fluid will be the coolest after it leaves the new external cooler. Mine has been on for 3 years now without any problems. Let me know if you have anymore questions or if this makes it more confusing?
Cob.
1- What were the symptoms, radiator exhaust (white smoke)
2- An idling problem.
Did you do the job, an if so how much work was it to do it. Probably for starters was removing
the inside (over the motor) hood. Looks like a bear to remove.
-gary
okay, back to the tranny cooler. The A/C radiator has a cross tube infront of extending across left to right. I'm wondering if you mounted the tranny cooler above or below this front tube.
2nd. ? is what is involved in removing the front grill to allow access for mounting of the t cooler in front of and onto the A/C radiator.
thx for any help. -gary
I appreciate the help. Hopefully my ? aren't a nuisance.