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Comments
Same problem. Just purchased the car used.
Check Engine light came on while driving home from work 2 days after getting the car home. Took to dealer, who originally said we must have done something to it? Then he decided to help us.
- First try: He cleaned the engine and did a few tests. Replaced the Oxygen Sensors. The light went off. 2 days later... it was back.
- Second try: Then the dealer had the Catalytic converter replaced. Brand new. Car ran fine for 2 miles. Light was back on same day.
The car "looks" great. The engine light will not go off. I think we occasionally get a whiff of gas....
Anyone fix this issue? It seems to be an ongoing problem from year to year??
When it does start, it seems fine until 2k, then runs really bad.
Haven't driven it because of this.
Anyone have any ideas?
There are over 30 sensors and switches on a car that can go bad, or give false readings to set this light off.
As a mechanic, i am disturbed to think that my customers would ever think this.
Something as minute as a loose gas cap, or overfilling your tank, to spiders inside your emissions control devices can also set it off.
Please, trust your mechanic.
ESPECIALLY your dealerships.
6 Cyl. 2.5L
119000 mi.
Just bought this car for my Daughter and have had the following done with no results. (paid $1500.00, but put $695.00 on sales slip to help with sales tax, got boned)
Replaced plugs, rotor, dist. cap., wires
Checked out misfire Cyl 5, codes PO300 & PO305 found.
Leak down test (Good) for Cyl.5
Compression Test 172
Replace lower and upper intake Gaskets
Swap Injector & Spark Plug 5 & 6 No Change.
I also had to replace the Cat. Converter because it was broken up inside, the guy at the Garage said that could have been from the injector at 5 shooting to much gas and overheating the Cat.
Garage said the computer seems as if it was replace at some time because there is a sticker on it that says it has to be programed and New cars do not have these stickers. It only misses after being warmed up for 15-20 min. and only when idling not when it's being driven. Seems to be terrible on Gas.
He suspects a wire could be the problem but says it could take days to find it. I'm already into this thing for $1200.00 (parts & labor) on the of the $1500.00 I paid.
Any help would be appreciated
just spent $100's on ball joints's, tire rod ends -
the car died the first time, towed in - sat over night - started up and away she went.
this time - took it right in.
dashboard lights (only) died a couple of months ago.
lights come on and off at will - engine light, oil light etc
heated seats have ever only worked for like 2 wks and die.
windshield wipers died on highway 2 years ago
paid 40000 for this frkkkin car - and cannot safely drive it to work
seen lots of posts with lots of issues -----
who do we complain too? does anyone at chrylser listen????????
Do we have a definitive answer as to what causes the car to lose power and die?
won't even turn over now.
stupid car - looks good - pc of " ____"
any help is greatly appreciated,
live in milton
cprong@robert.ca
cheers,
My car seems to be acting the same way, reading a cyl 6 misfire though. What seemed to be the root of the problem for you in this case??
Can someone help????
I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for a recall, as these issues aren't likely to be traceable to an initial manufacturing defect, and I've never heard of a model year that far back being recalled.
I do hope that you find easy and inexpensive resolutions to the problems you're experiencing.
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Can someone tell me what may be the problem.
Thankfully I was near a gas station, added 2 quarts of oil. It sounds like it wants to turn over but nothing. It's like something isn't sparking for it to start up. I will admit I am overdue for an oil change, so could this have anything to do with it?
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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If it is preprogrammed, can someone tell me how to reset it?
Much appreciated.
Jeff
I did discover a strange event: I had to replace the battery just last month, and after installing the new one, that check engine light never came back on... I don't know what to make of that, but the car runs perfectly and I do all regular minor maintenance (filters, oil, plugs) so I'm left to assume that the light is programmed to come on at some mileage interval just to get you to take the car to the dealer for a few hundred bucks.
I first noticed the check engine light turning on and off about a year ago, but didn't think anything of it at first. After a while it started (I assume) to affect the air conditioning and the outside temperature reading in the dashboard. At times, my car tells me it's -31 degrees outside when it's 60. At those times when the temperature reading is off, the air conditioning usually fails and the car blows uncooled air (though it still blows air).
Last time I got my oil changed, I had the shop check the check engine code and they said it had something to do with the temperature gauge, but they didn't know how to fix it.
I'd really like to avoid the costly process of having a professional diagnose and even fix the problem, so if anyone has thoughts around what the issue might be and a less costly, yet reliable, solution I would be very appreciative.
Thanks.
Thanks for any input.
I'm out of the country with the car and don't want to take it to a mechanic that I don't know if I don't have to.
Any suggestions?