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Comments
pulled negative battery cable first:
removed radio
cut wires
use 2200 resistors and mini terminal block as show in the pic there
cut yellow and black wires and made sure insulation was not inside block.
installed resistor as shown. I pulled the radio for access to the two wires.
the car starts and stalls. with the switch left to on the security light flashes. If I turn the switch off and back on the security light stays solid.
car will not relearn regardless of procedure learned. 10 min or 30 min makes no diff at all the light will not go out.
car was running fine when i pulled it into garage.
I read a post that suggested the bcm could be bad.
will a car dealer work on a car with the security bypassed?
it will be hard to get to the wire coming out of the ignition. Might have to pull that.
basically I tried the http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml bypass and my light won't go out at all period.
all help appreciated
R Berger
Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
GM Proving Ground
Milford, MI
the ohm reading set st 200k ..................... 22
settings taken at center plug wire harness of bcm
orogle
I was pretty sure the wiring job was done right. You cut and strip a piece of wire and stick it in the terminal block. Not too complicated. But now I am sure since I checked with a multimeter in the center connector of the wiring harness.
Hope there is an answer to why my security light stays on.
like I said before:
@ if you leave the key in the "on" position it blinks.......but won't reset ......ever
@ if you turn it off and back on then it is solid and will not reset.................ever
orogle
Here is a handy reference for reading resistor color codes...
http://www.bcdxc.org/resistor_color_codes.htm
Dick
PS... Are you referring to an additional screw to dismount the radio, or to get to the BCM?
I bought another package the other day and: it says 22 kohm. I thought it said 2.2 kohm. And I thought i was being careful not to get 2.2mohmn heheheh.
I am thinking/hoping you have solved my problem.
@ Will revisit radio shack and get the right one. My problem is I am color blind inside but I can see most colors outside ok.
This is a relief for me
Now it totally makes sense why this isn't working.
thanks for your help
I am so thankful for :
@ The Internet
@ Your great website
@ The forum.
@ Your posting replies even on the holidays.
Thanks
orogle
click on home page
Click on left side where it says no solder method and be careful you get the right resistor. 2.2 kohm and not 22 kohm like I did hehehe.
best info you can get and it shows the bcm under the glove box.
orogle
can you drive the car with it loose?
orogle
http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml. Scroll down near the end of the page to see how to get to the BCM.
Dick B
Thanks to your own perserverence, you were able to help solve your situation by posting back with your observations. I winder how many people give up she they don't succeed the first time. Posting back your ohmmeter readings was the key. Glad you we we successful.
Dick B
oh, just in case you didn't see it: can you tell me what the wire does that is connected to the bcm. I called a chevy dealer and a buick dealer and asked the service dept but neither of them had a clue.
I noticed that it was attached to the well wall and held by some tape that was coming undone but didn't pay enough attention and certainly didn't see it actually plugged into anything. There isn't anything to unscrew to remove it.
looked at a new gm part on ebay and it was the same single wire coming out of the bcm. Searched the internet for hours trying to find out what that wire did. No reference to it at all. Kinda reminds me of the wire hanging down on my electric door opener. Each one I have had has a wire but it is never attached to anything.
Does that wire have a purpose? Heheheh must be good for something.
orogle
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121031999719?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m142- 3.l2649
@ small wire with a flat piece of plastic on the end of it. Doesn't look like it would snap into anything its smooth. No clip to hold it. And yet it is attached to the bcm so there must be a reason. Guess I will forgetaboutit hhehhe.
I have another problem which probably should be in a new post but:
Last week I went to start the car and there was darkness in the garage, the dome light wasn't on, turning the key produced no dash lights and the car wouldn't start.
put on the multimeter to test voltage on the battery and it was fully charged.
got out of car went into house
went back to garage, the door was locked so unlocked door and when I opened it the dome light was on, the dash lights lit when turned the key and it started.
@ went to the store a few days later and left the car unlocked
and when I tried to start the car once again no power.
@ Got out of the car and locked and unlocked the door with the key because I had no idea of what to do and no power still.
@ Turned the headlight switch and had headlights and then dash lights and it started. I was surprised when the headlights came on.
@ no security light flashing either time, just no power.
orogle
I have a 2003 pontiac grand am. Car start a day before but now it just turn and won't start. I did the 10 min thing and the learning procedure but still no luck.
My car security light is lid and stay lid when the key is turn to the ON position. After 10-15 minute in the "ON" position, the security light remains lid. shouldn't it turned off?
I also try the learning procedure.... Turn the key on...then turn to crank the ignition..won't start. The security light goes off when its back to the "ON " position. Should the light stay lid?
Just a note ...My security light does not flashes. Any suggestions?
There are some tips at the bottom of that article on troubleshooting your system. It sounds like you might have a short or an open in one of the wires between the passlock module and the BCM. Good luck.
Dick B
1999 - 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
1997 - 2003 Chevrolet Malibu
1999 - 2004 Pontiac Grand Am
They all are equipped with Passlock II systems, and do not require a key with an embedded resistor. In these models, the resistor is embedded in a module that is molded into the side of the tumbler mechanism, This resistor is activated into the passlock circuit when any key is used to turn the locking mechanism. When the resistor is activated, a voltage between 1.5 and 9 volts will be present on the yellow wire [circuit #1836]. If the voltage is not what is expected by the BCM, then the bcm will begin flashing the "Security" light, and will not send the correct code to the Powertrain Control Mocule. In turn, the Powertrain Control Module will deactivate the fuel injectors, causing the engine to shut down.
If the voltage on the yellow wire is within the allowable range, the vehicle can then be left in the ON position, and the BCM will, after 10 minutes, remember the new voltage, and will shut off the "Security" light. If you then turn the ignition off for 5 seconds, and then try to re-start the vehicle, the Security light will remain off, and the car will start.
If for some reason, the voltage on the yellow wire is not within the tolerable range, the "Security" light will then stay illuminated solid [not blinking]. If the relearn procedure does not work, the solid "Security" light indicates that the yellow wire is either broken, or shorted to something else in the wiring harness.
That's about all there is to the circuit.
1. "Security" light off - Everything working correctly
2. "Security" light blinking - Wrong voltage. needs relearn procecure
3. "Security" light ON - Short or open in the wiring
4. "Security" light ON but car starts - Faulty wiring, and Passlock system is in bypass mode. Bypass mode will remain until battery is disconnected or discharged, at which time Passlock system will cause the injectors to be de-activated.
Dick Berger
Instrumentation Engineering (retired)
General Motors Proving Ground
Milford, Michigan
It is common for the battery to drop below 11 volts when the starter motor is engaged, as when starting the car. The battery normally recovers to around 12.8 volts within seconds after the ignition switch is released from the "start" position, and returns to the "Run" position. During charging, the alternator generally puts out over 14 volts. Normally, the battery can go well below 10 volts without effecting the operation of any of the vehicle electronics.
Unless you have a VERY bad battery, I suspect there is something wrong with your wiring... possibly a bad ground point, or a short. The fact that your "SECURITY" light is blinking when the door is open indicates faulty wiring, since there should be no connection between the "door ajar" switch and the "SECURITY" warning light, which is completely controlled by the BCM. Also, the Passlock system will not shut the engine off when driving, as this is a safety concern. [shutting down the engine will stop your power steering from operating, rendering the car hard to control.]
During the learning period, the only things that draw current from the battery are:
The PCM and BCM
The dash lights
The Daytime Running Lights
The radio, if it is turned on
The AC/heater fan, if turned on
The Brake lights, if you have your foot on the brake, or your brake switch is out of adjustment.
A reasonably charged battery should be able to hold a charge under these circumstances for at least 45 minutes, so if it is running down during the relearn, either the battery is on it's last leg, or there is a short somewhere in the wiring that is causing excess drain on the battery.
Place a voltmeter on your battery, turn your ignition to the run position, and make sure all accessories and fans are shut off. If the voltage is above 11.8 volts and doesn't drop below that after 10 minutes, your battery is likely ok, but I suspect yours will drop slowly and get down to 10 volts or less.
Your next task should be to measure the current drain from the battery when the ignition is on and the engine not running, the AC fan and the radio are off, light switches are off, and the dome light is off. You can find out how much current should be drawn from the battery in the shop manual for your vehicle.
Dick B
Hopefully some one can help me. I have a 2002 Grand AM and was plagued with the passlock issue. I found a website with a supposed fix. (bergerweb.net) seemed like a good idea at the time. I got my car started by resetting the computer and one fix was cutting a yellow wire below your dashboard and that should solve the issue but leave your security light on. I didn't mind the security light on as I just wanted my car to run. It worked for a day and a half and now my key will not even turn in the ignition and I cannot even move the gearshift into neutral to get my car off the street. I tried resetting the computer again and reconnecting the wire and then resetting the computer. Nothing is working any advice?
There is a possibility that you may get your key to turn by jiggling the gearshift lever a little while turning the key. This may be the reason for the binding. Also, try jiggling the steering wheel while trying to turn the key, as this mechanism sometimes binds until you relieve the pressure on the wheel in one direction or the other.
By the way, how were you able to reset the Passlock system without turning the ignition switch.
Also, doesn't the instructions at Bergerweb.net instruct you to also add a resistor to the circuit after cutting the yellow and black wires?
If it is mechanical it happened at a really odd time. I tried both to no avail.
Prior to my cutting the wire my car was fine except the for the passlock issue. My father in law got it running by either removing the battery cable for 10 minutes or by leaving the car in the "on" position for 10 minutes, not sure which.
After i cut the wire the car was running fine. Two days later the key wouldn't turn. Since then I tried taking the battery cable off. splicing the wire back together and nothing is working.
As for bergerweb.net, there were three fixes listed on his site.
1) cut the yellow wire while the car is running, this will leave your dash security light on( my choice as i didn't care about the dash light as long as my car was running)
2) cut the wire and splice in a switch so you can toggle it on and off at will.
3) the fix with the resistors.
I figured i could cut the wire to get me going now and at a later date add the resistors. I can't do that now because i cannot recalibrate the system as it requires me to put the car in the "on" position.
Lucky enough where we just got a new car so i don't need it, but its stuck in front of my house and i can't even get it into neutral to roll it into my driveway so i can get it off my insurance. I would love to be able to get more than a tax write off or selling it to a junk dealer for cheap when the engine is still in great shape as is most of the rest of the car.
* The Gearshift link cable may be causing the key to not turn (Automatic Transmissions)
* The Steering locking mechanism may be causing the key to not turn (manual transmissions)
* Something is broken inside the lock mechanism.
* The wrong key is being used, or the key has become worn and no longer aligns the lock tumblers correctly to allow unlocking the vehicle.
* The actual ignition switch, [which is attached to the back of the key mechanism] is binding, broken, or has come out of proper alignment. This could be a possibility if, you unplugged the ignition switch connector while gaining access to the yellow wire and it's bundle.
Before going to the dealer, why not remove your radio, unscrew the two bolts that hold the ignition switch in the dashboard, and pull the switch out through the radio cavity and try to get it to turn with nothing attached to it, then you will know whether or not you need a new ignition switch. You should be able to find one at a junk yard for far less than the $400 or so that the dealer will charge to put in a new one. Then, also do the resistor mod, and you won't have to worry about passlock problems ever again. See the alternate instructions at Passlock Fix, No Soldering
Also, there is another reason for installing the resistor, instead of just cutting the yellow wire. After you get the vehicle started, and the yellow wire is cut, you cannot lose power to the Body Control Module. If you do, as in.... disconnecting the battery..... the BCM will reset out of the passlock fail mode, and again try to protect the vehicle from theft. Since the yellow wire is now disconnected, you will not be able to perform a relearn, so you won't be able to get the vehicle started without re-connecting the yellow wire, performing the relearn, starting the car, and then cutting the yellow wire again. That's the reason for installing the switch.
When I wrote up the instructions at Bergerweb.net, I figured it was considerably cheaper to install a resistor [4 for a dollar] rather than a switch [$4.50].
Dick Berger
Instrumentation Engineering, GM Proving Ground
1999 - 2004 Oldsmobile Alero
1997 - 2003 Chevrolet Malibu
1999 - 2004 Pontiac Grand Am
A few Saturn models around the same years.
If you can get hold of a service manual for your '97 Grand Am, find the page that shows the wiring diagram for the theft deterrent system. Scan the pages and then send them to me at richard@bergerweb.net. Also, Find the relearn procedure in your Owner's Manual and see what they tell you to do. If the procedure is the same, then you may possibly have a variation of the Passlock II system.
Finally, Check your key, and see if it is stamped on one side with a "+" sign inside a circle. If not, then your key doesn't have any imbedded circuits.
Thank you for all the advice and assistance. I was lucky enought to be able to afford a new vehicle . I don't have the time or patience to try and deal with trying to fix the car at this point in time so I donated my car to the Breast cancer foundation. Hopefully they can make something off of it and help people at the same time.
Have a great day and thanks again!
http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
You can still use your bypass module, so you won't have to solder the wires.
It's a 2004 Grand Am.
Considering that you are having other problems that are related to the BCM, I would doubt that doing the Passlock mod will help.
I didn't get your message until after I did the mod. Cut the yellow/black made the circuit like you showed and I still have a security light. Did the 10 min and 30 min and still a light. I'm just gonna drive it with the light on and hope that it just won't stop starting. LOL My Service Engine Light Soon light has been on for 3 or 4 years and the techs can't find anything either, so I'm not worried about a light.