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there is another small bundle of skinny wires, but it is about 5 or 6 of them. I cannot find the yellow wire for the life of me and it is really hard to get to them. anyone have advice or another picture???
Edit: Scratch that, I just found it. the yellow black and white wires were in the large bundle when I took the tape off. My next question is, would it be bad if I just cut the yellow wire without doing any soldering immediately? I dont have a soldering iron, so would it be fine to drive without taking that next step??
Dick
I'm going to repeat myself again.... "There is no substitute for a good shop manual."
Dick
It looks like you did a good job bypassing the security system, now you will have to find out what else is causing your car not to start. You need:
Fuel
Spark
Compression
Check to see if you have all three.
Dick
after screwing with this passlock crap for three months, i went ahead and took the fuel pump relay out and hard wired it closed. the car started right up. has anybody
else done this . i tried every thing else, ( lock cylinder,lock cylinder and switch,
bcm , pcm , bypass, relay ), and every combination you can think of and still got no voltage to close the fp relay. any other ideas ?
OK, As I understand it, your history is:
1. Security light On solid, car won't start
2. You performed resistor bypass, did 10 minute reset... Security Light out. Car still won't start.
3. No pressure in the fuel line.
If all this is true, your problem is probably either:
A. bad fuel pump
B. bad fuel pump relay
C. problem with Pwrtrain Control Module (PCM)
D. broken wire.
If you aren't getting pressure in the fuel line, the fuel pump is either defective or not running.
If the problem were with the Security system, the light would be flashing, or on continuously. Since it is off, you have eliminated that.
When the Body Control Module senses a theft condition, it starts the security light flashing, and simultaneously sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module telling it to shut down the vehicle. Then the PCM turns off the power to the Fuel Pump Relay, thus shutting down the Fuel Pump. In most cases, that's why the engine starts, runs for a second or two, and then stops. (because there was residual fuel pressure in the lines, but as soon as the theft attempt was detected, the fuel pump was shut down, then there was no more fuel pressure, so it stalled.
Now, if you want to fix your own car, you definitely need a Service Manual, because you need to trace down your problem and determine which of the many possibilities is causing you not to have fuel pressure. A scan tool would help too, because then you could determine for sure whether or not the BCM is telling the PCM to shut down the vehicle.(This signal is on the Serial Data Link)
If it were me, I would take it to Veks Garage in downtown Fenton, Michigan. He has a perfect record with all my cars.
Dick
Thank you Dick for the bypass instruction. It was very detailed and helpful. Yesterday I tried the same steps on another Grand AM and it did the job and both cars start and run great, and security lights are out.
Note: Be sure to read all the posts mentioned in post 599, and most of all, be sure to get yourself a service manual, or subscribe to an online service manual. GM makes some good cars, but their dealers are crap.
Most GM manuals advise replacing the fuel filter as the first step when you have problems similar to this. Often, with a clogged fuel filter, letting the car sit for a few minutes will allow the clog to free itself.
At any rate, the security system DOES NOT require a 10 minute relearn when the light is on, but the car starts. You would be better off just turning the ignition off and waiting 10 minutes and trying to start again. That way, you don't drain the battery with those infernal DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS!!!
I have been reading this message board for the past week. I have tried the bypass and have since respliced things back to the way they were before the "fix". when I turn the key on my 02 Grandam, all I get is a 3 second hum ( I assume this is the fuel pump) then the dummy lights and nothing. this has been happening for 4 days now. I have replaced the battery as well. The security light is on SOLID i am not a mechanic but have tried to follow the suggestions here however most of the posts here are with cars that are actually turning over... my car does nothing.... any suggestions? PLEASE
2. what lights come on, if its the passlock system all my lights were out except the security light. 3. When you turn the key to the on position and you here the three second buzz what happens when you turn the key to the start position, do you here any click sound, it could be real small. Have someone lisen with there head under the hood when you try to start your car. After all that email me with what you find.
Just to give you some on what going on in my mind is. if all the idiot lights come on when you turn the key to the on position and you get nothing when you try to start it I'm looking at a starter problem ie fuseable link, relay....
let me know
Terry
2) when I turn the key to try and start the car, all the dummy lights come on, then all go out but the battery light, and the service light. but then if I turn it off and back to on the security light is on solid.
3) when I turn the key to try and start the engine, i only hear the humm, buzz which I believe is the fuel pump and nothing else.
Tripower, where did you get this information. I don't doubt that it is true, but it's not the case for my car, which has a standard transmission. When my security light came on and was flashing, the starter motor would crank the engine, but it would not start. Then later, with the security light on solid, the starter motor would crank the engine, but not start. Finally, after a 10 minute reset, the car would start. This is all verified by the shop manual for my vehicle, which says that the security system disables only the fuel supply.
I believe there may be a different condition for automatic transmissions, and they probably disable the starter, rather than the fuel system. at least in some vehicles. Out of 640 posts, there must be someone out there who has a shop manual for a Grand Am with Automatic Tranny? Please tell us what it says about this.
I just had someone else assist me with trying to figure out this issue, and to your message Tripower1, there IS a faint clicking as you stated.. what would that be?
Thanks,
On the '99, I think you can use the method detailed by me earlier for the '97 (ignition on the column). Beneath the cowling on the steering column are three screws which you can pop in less than five minutes. Once inside you'll find the yellow wire. This is the one to the ignition. WARNING: DON'T CUT THE YELLOW WIRE TO THE AIRBAG!
I cut my toggle in here (Radio Shack, $3), mounted it underneath on the cowling. Your red light will stay on if you use this method, or more likely flicker, since it is subject to the humidity too. THE CAR MUST BE RUNNING BEFORE THE WIRE IS CUT, AND THE TOGGLE MUST THEN BE SWITCHED TO THE "OFF" POSITION (wire disconnected) BEFORE YOU TURN VEHICLE OFF. Toggle is used to restart car after changing out battery (PassLock can rearm under those circumstances). Flip it "on" (wire connected) and wait as previously (you may have to unscrew cowling again and jiggle the wire while turning the key).
Jmay78, read post #599. Then read all the posts mentioned in that post, and also the blog at:
Grand Am Passlock Security Fix
After you have read those posts and that blog, you will know as much as anyone here about all the possible fixes to the Passlock(tm) system.
Dick Berger
hi, my grand am's passlock security problem has been giving me the blues. do you think a reputable mechanic would be able to disarm the security system via the instructions on the website u mentioned successfully?
Corbin,
Yes, but be sure to go to post 599, and print out all the posts mentioned there, and all the photos in the links on post #50. You will probably have to look around to find a mechanic willing to do this mod, since it is electrical, not mechanical. You would probably have more luck going to your local computer geek shop, showing him the stuff, and asking him if he could do it.
This is a job that requires electronic knowledge, and the ability to solder. That's why you can't take it to a dealer to have it done. Pontiac dealers know nothing more than "replace parts". They are hired because they don't know how to think. If it's a wiring problem, they replace the wiring harness. If it's the motor, they replace the motor. But then, the same holds true of Honda mechanics too.
That's why it's important to obtain a shop manual for your particular car. These are written in such a manner that by following the diagnostic procedures, even an 8th grader could find and replace the right part. The problem is, most people who can read are not mechanics.
My Screen Name says it all, I too am a victim of GM's Passlock Security System Malfunction.
I own 2 Pontiac Grand Ams.
The 1st(2000 4cly.4 dr. SE) I purchase as a gift for my daughter used as her 1st car. This car has been very good with no major problems other then maintanence issues related to a car with 80,000 miles. We have owned it over a year..
The 2nd(2001 4cly.2 dr. SE) is the CAR FROM HELL, also a gift purchased for my son about 6 months ago with only 42,000 miles on it. I too, like a previous poster thought i got the deal of the century. I will save you my long drawn out story similar to most of you but just so you know i have replaced every sensor related to the ingnition plus the cam, crank & fuel pump. Still exprienced the Passlock Gremlin my general mechanic is really just sick of the car as well & is frankly so frustrated that when the last incident happened he took it to the local general motors dealership himself & believe it or not paid for the repair because he is tired of charging me for the repairs only to have it towed back within 4 to 6 weeks later. Unfortunately he also told me he no longer knows what to try & I should probably get rid of it.
So here's where I'm at... Lastnite it happened again & the reset sequence did not work, you know turn to on for 10 or 15 mins. back to off then start... So we called a tow again, at least the 6th or 7th time in the 6 months we've owned it... Well you should know the tow truck driver was totally aware of the problem, he pulled the main ignition fuse under the hood(green 30amp bottom lft corner of fuse box) & it that reset everything & started right up.. Now feeling I have no other alternative I cut the yellow Passlock Data Wire, while the car was running & put the toggle switch in.. The car seems ok & the Security idiot light stays on continuously.. I think my son will be able to deal with that as long as it bypasses the Passlock Glitch.. I just don't know if we will ever really trust the car, it has proven to be so unreliable. He honestly is afraid to drive the dam thing & wind up getting stranded again.
How General Motors can put a product out like this and still stay in business is unbelievable!! Oh that's right, they're ready to go belly-up.. Going Bankrupt & washing their hands of the thing.. How convenient!! & they wonder why the [non-permissible content removed] Companies are crushing them...
I'll post in the future if the car hits the crapper again but so far so good.. Thanks to all who have tried to help & if a classaction is really possible count me in..
Here's helpful links:
http://motorage.search-autoparts.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/2920- 05/169809/article.pdf
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http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf
Good Luck!
I was referring to my daughters Olds Alero, it's been so long ago since I installed the toggle switch and cut the yellow wire that I don't remember if the security lite was flashing or solid but the car did nothing, no fuel pump, starter or anything until after the ten minute wait. It's been almost two years since I did the fix with out one problem yet.
Is the Olds Alero an Automatic, or Stick shift? I think that information would be useful to the blog.
she didn't turn it to the off position first then try and start it, that would be like starting all over. I found this site and did some reading and followed the instructions posted here, cutting the yellow wire, installing the toggle switch and it's been almost two years trouble free.
Any questions email me.
Thanks Grandam.
PS I should have told you it's a V6 3.4
Look at the fuel pump, cam or crank senser first.
One of four things is likely wrong with your car
1. no fuel is being delivered to the cylinders
2. no spark is being delivered to the cylinders
3. no compression.
4. the starter motor is not running
If your starter motor is not running, you may have a bad starter motor, or bad electrical connection.
If you don't have compression, your engine will turn over faster than usual when you try to crank it.
If something else is wrong, I suggest you take it to a trusted mechanic. If you are smart, you will choose someone other than a Pontiac dealer. Their prices are inflated, and they aren't as friendly as the Chevy dealers.
( IT STARTED ) glory be. the security light is still on and now the air bag light is too. wonder if they are related or just coincidence.