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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited August 2010
    Read post 599 of this thread, and all the referenced posts mentioned there, and you will have all the information you need.
    Or... go to http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    This is a very good suggestion. Many times, the Passlock problem arises because after years of service, metal filings build up around the magnet that is used to activate the hall effect switch in the ignition module. I actually helped someone temporarily relieve a Passlock problem on an Alero by blowing high pressure air into the ignition key opening, thus cleaning the filings away from the magnet.
    It is also possible to fix the problem by removing the lock cylinder and cleaning it out with a solvent and shop air. Just remember that you need to get all the metal filings away from around the magnet.
    There is a post in this thread that tells you how to remove and clean the lock cylinder. It's worth your time to go through all the posts to find it. Good luck.
  • milwrigmilwrig Member Posts: 3
    Follow Up question and steaming mad- So I broke down and took it to a dealer- explained what I had done already- after 3 days he calls me and says that it is the ignition switch- which I just replaced and is charging me $407 what can I do? Please help.........
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Not sure if my eyes are starting to show their age but I skimmed over this long thread to try and find that posting on how to take out the ignition switch and clean it. I can't seem to find it... Does anyone happen to know where it went?

    Thanks....
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    edited August 2010
    When is everyone going to realize that GM dealers are running a racket on these PassLock problems? The silliness of it all is reflected by prices all over the place in terms of what it takes to make a claimed fix. I've heard every number under the sun from $189.95 to almost $800 -- every dealership has a different price for something that really costs less than $5 and a half hour of work!

    Tell the dealer that it cannot be the ignition switch, that you just replaced the ignition switch, that he needs to hire a new head mechanic, and that you want your car back. If he's recalcitrant, threaten him with a lawsuit for civil fraud (that might help) or report him to your state "lemon law" administrator.

    Then, go back in this thread and find the entries re resetting the PassLock codes, bridging the system with a resistor, or cutting it out entirely by installing a Radio Shack SPST switch for $1.99. That's what I did, and my car has not failed to start since (3.5 years). :P
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Tommy01,
    That post is somewhere before post 599.
  • milwrigmilwrig Member Posts: 3
    Yeah it sure seems like it- I ended up being told that the switch I installed was defective- which is why I was having problems after I installed it. They replaced the switch and charged me 250 bucks for labor (which was bull because I already had the radio out and the lock removed- all they did was unplug it and put a new one in and all they did was put the lock back) 150 for the switch which was 50 more than the parts store. I took the switch back to the parts store, got my money back and turned in all the dealer paperwork to them to test the switch and possible get some money back from them for selling me a defective part that cost me more money. If it was defective and they fork over some store credit I'll gladly sing their praises... I'll continue with this later. Thanks to all
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Thanks so much lovemygrandam; I will locate it this afternoon. I'm going to tinker around with it before the cold winter season sets in here in Massachusetts.
    Thanks again my friend...
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Tommy,
    The post is #59, but unfortunately, the links on that post don't work any more. When I first read the post, there were photos showing the various parts of the ignition switch after disassmebly, and how to clean out the fine metal filings and put it back together. Those links are now empty.
    Here is a photo of my dash board, with the radio bezel removed.
    image
    Note that there are two hex-head screws above and below the ignition switch, and slightly to the right of the centerline of the switch. These hold the switch in place. I think you can remove them and slide the switch assembly out through the radio hole. ">
  • poppyken1poppyken1 Member Posts: 3
    2005 grand am start problem same as all above.. Ihave no interior lights or other dash gauge functions.changed bcm still nothing. engine cranks buy wont start need help thanks
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    "Ihave no interior lights or other dash gauge functions" So the security light is not coming on and flashing?
  • tripower1tripower1 Member Posts: 25
    From what you said it sounds like you lost all power to your fues box, Check the main power lead going to the fues box under the hood, and in the car. you may have poped a fuseable link.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    poppyken,
    It doesn't sound like your problem is the passlock system. You are losing power to your dash some other way. Just follow the troubleshooting procedure in the shop manual and you should find the problem. What??? You don't have a shop manual? Get one online from ALLDATAdiy. Best $27.00 you will ever spend.
  • poppyken1poppyken1 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the answers have not had a chance to work on it since. the only light on the dash is "service engine soon" thanks again
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I've posted many times here, and followed this forum for a couple of years. For those of you who have experienced this problem, I have written a tutorial on how to bypass the "Passlock II" security system on GM cars, and enable you to drive your car forever without worrying about the security system leaving you stranded.... not even for 10 minutes. My tutorial can be found at:

    http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity

    Have a look. If you are having Passlock security problems on 1999 - 2004 GM cars, chances are my tutorial will help you.

    Dick Berger
  • jkunzman2jkunzman2 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone tried the PLJX passlock bypass kit with success, or any bypass kit for that matter? I have read it works even if you are not putting in a remote starter, just need to permanently ground the ground wire you would connect to the remote starter to the chassis instead. You have to get the car started first before you start. . Today I tried the work around, leave in the ACC position for 10 minutes then start 3 times, it would start for a second then shut off. I gave up in frustration. Any help with this would be appreciated.
  • jkunzman2jkunzman2 Member Posts: 2
    I see in your posts you mention a 97 GA, would you happen to know if this would work on a 96? Thank you in advance.
  • bigdave65bigdave65 Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I see you have a tutorial for the 1999-04. I have a 98 grand am. Do you have a bypass for it?
    Thanks David
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    My method of cutting the data wire and installing an SPST switch probably would work for a '98. Mine is a '97, and since I did this several years ago, my car has not failed to start once. :shades:
  • bigdave65bigdave65 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the suggestion, but did not work for me. I start car, its runs for a second or two and then dies. Cutting the yellow wire made no difference, it still died. The first time i did the 10 minute wait, it worked. Now it does not. I replaced the ignition switch, did not help. Would replacing the BCM help since cutting the yellow wire did nothing? After car dies the security lights blinks for between 2 and 5 seconds, then turns solid. It never goes out no matter how long I wait. I have a 98 grand am, and I think the BCM is part of the computer. Any help would be great. The car is not worth taking to the dealer and spending a ton.
    Thanks David
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    The engine MUST be running when the wire is cut. Otherwise, PassLock is not bypassed. This clearly is in the instructions.

    When I had mine in the shop, the mechanic had difficulty starting the car (the electric potential through the data wire was submarginal). I simply jiggled the wire while I turned the ignition. That did the trick. I got the SPST switch from the Radio Shack across the street. Total cost: $2.95 plus tax.

    The switch is needed to reconnect the wire if, e.g., you have to replace the battery. When the battery dies or is disconnected, PassLock can rearm, meaning the start engine/disconnect wire procedure must be repeated. After the switch is installed, after the battery is reconnected, YOU TRY THE IGNITION FIRST. If it works, fine; if it dies, FLIP THE SWITCH TO "ON" AND GET THE CAR STARTED. Then, flip the switch to "off." That "cuts" the wire.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    My tutorial may work for your vehicle as well. The reason I suggested that it would work for the `99-04 is that all these models have the same part number for the ignition switch assembly. Try going to a dealer to find out if your ignition switch is the same, and if so, then the mod will probably work for you too.
  • bigdave65bigdave65 Member Posts: 6
    I did cut the yellow wire while the engine was running. I put the switch in and tried it several times since the engine only runs for a second or so. I thought my timing might be off. The ignition switch is different on the 98 than the 99-04. Any other suggestions? Thanks
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    There are two yellow wires on the '97 (the other one goes to the air bag). Assuming you cut the right wire (and that the '98 is the same system), I'm out of ideas other than to refer you to Love My Grand Am's resistor method:

    "Read post 599 of this thread, and all the referenced posts mentioned there, and you will have all the information you need. Or... go to http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm ."

    Your engine is shutting down because the injectors are being told to cut off the fuel. Your timing has nothing to do with it.
  • bheckelbheckel Member Posts: 3
    2004 Grand Am GT - have the exact same problem - car starts but solid Security light after bypass. Resistance across A6&B6 is 2.2K just as expected. Is replacing the BCM as simple as swapping out or is dealer programming required?

    Notes: As I understood the bergerweb directions, I cut the yellow with the car off. I started the car right after reconnecting battery, was I supposed to relearn it first??

    Regardless - thank you very much lovemygrandam for all your work helping people fix GM's engineering ineptitude!

    Bob
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Is replacing the BCM as simple as swapping out or is dealer programming required?

    You don't have to have the BCM reprogrammed by a dealer. All you need do is the 10 minute SECURITY reset, as mentioned in the Owner's manual.

    It so surprises me that so many people don't read their OWNER'S MANUAL when they run across this problem. That should be the very first thing you do when your car won't start.
  • bheckelbheckel Member Posts: 3
    Maybe I didn't state my issue clearly, sorry. I did all the steps on http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm and fell into this condition:

    "If everything above checks out, then you probably have a defective BCM. I hate to break the bad news to you, but you are one of the 3 percent or so who this mod didn't help. Un-do your work, and take your car to the dealer..."

    The day after the failed fix I did disconnect the battery leaving the car dead for hours and tried the 10 min reset. No luck.

    Could it be that the resistor bypass only works for systems that have not gone into full failure mode? My light was solid red before I began (it only locked me out one time for the 10 min period, 30 days ago).
  • bigdave65bigdave65 Member Posts: 6
    I did the resister fix. It did not work. My grand am is a 98, it does not state in the owners manual to wait the 10 minutes. Do I have to have a dealer reset it?
    thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    bheckel,
    It's time for you to get a shop manual and go through the troubleshooting procedure. There are a number of possible causes, including Bad grounding points, broken wiring between the BCM and PCM, It's also possible to get hold of the wrong black wire. You could try putting the system back to it's original configuration, and then doing the modification according to the instructions at:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/index.shtml

    More information needed.
    Is your security light still on solid?
    Is it off?
    Does your car start?
  • bheckelbheckel Member Posts: 3
    Yes, still solid, no problems starting. It's an aesthetic problem now.

    All symptoms of the worn ignition cylinder led up to my current trouble:

    - harmless intermittent Security light for two months or so (that's when I found your website so I was ready for what came next, I'd already bought the resistor etc.)
    - a single total lockout that needed a 10 minute relearn
    - solid Security light since that day (and after the bypass)

    B6 is the black wire I tapped into. Hope the '04 GA GT doesn't differ from your '02 GA SE, I'll try to locate a shop manual.

    Thank you again lovemygrandam.
  • pburdspburds Member Posts: 2
    Having the passlock problem for the past two years similiar to everyone else with 2000 Grand Am...but now the car has recently STALLED WHILE DRIVING. Before I begin the wire cutting proceedure, is the "stalling while driving" issue that I'm having related, or could it be an additional problem?

    THANKS,
    PBURDS
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    It's probably an additional problem. Passlock isn't designed to shut the engine down while it's running.
  • april917april917 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 pontiac grand am gt. a week ago, i had the passlock issue everyone was talking about. my father thought it was the fuel filter, since we had prior issues, so he replaced it. he took off down the road making sure everything was ok, and the car died on him. then, as he was trying to start it, the battery died. after it was jump started, he headed home and the car hit 200 degrees [normal running temperature] and died on him again, and wont spark. him and a couple mechanics have checked a few things without any luck. has anyone experienced this problem or have an idea of what the problem could be?
  • evil_disco32evil_disco32 Member Posts: 3
    Other than the security system, what would cause my 2000 pontiac grand am gt to start run for a couple seconds and then stop? The security light is not blinking!
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    The light could be out or corroded so that it comes on only sometimes. Check this first.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Low fuel pressure due to clogged filter or bad fuel pump is the first place I would look.
  • evil_disco32evil_disco32 Member Posts: 3
    Well the light is on when I turn the ignition on, but it doesn't blink. I was told that it needs to be blinking.
  • evil_disco32evil_disco32 Member Posts: 3
    OK, I will check the fuel pressure, but the fuel pump is new, and you can hear it when you turn the key on. I have no idea when the last time the fuel filter was changed!
  • omeomyomeomy Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 2004 Grandam with flashing security light, unfortunately i went and paid to have new ignition put in still having same problem ..very...very frustrating...My question is I read that i could pull my radio out and snip yellow wire..that's it problem gone? Has anyone else tried this and was successful?I
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited December 2010
    My question is I read that i could pull my radio out and snip yellow wire..that's it problem gone? Has anyone else tried this and was successful?

    go to this website and follow the directions.
    http://bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/index.shtml
    The instructions are for an alero, but it's the same as the Grand Am.

    But, if you paid to have the problem fixed, they should warrant the work. Take it back to the dealer, and tell them it didn't work, you are still having the same problem. If they don't fix it, take them to small claims court. After you pay $400 or so for a fix, you should be able to EXPECT it to be fixed. Don't pay them any more, unless they first refund the money from the fix they tried that didn't work. You shouldn't have to pay for the incompetence of the dealer.
    Dick B
  • racerm460racerm460 Member Posts: 1
    i too have the same problem with my car.it just leaves you stranded??this sucks.because my daughter uses this car for school.and i had to tow here home alot.and have spent much money tring to fix the problem,so along with everyone else i would like to see a class action suit,so G.M. can fix this problem,and stand behine there product..so lets get together and make our word heard......racer. :mad:
  • bob252bob252 Member Posts: 48
    Hi, I am hoping that this is timely, but there seems to be a whole lot more here, someone with this problem stated "no spark" if that was checked out then there may be a need for a new crank sensor, earlier models of GM built cars had this problem when that sensor was on the way out, the car will start when it is cold (not the weather type cold) but when is has ran for a little it dies, there will be no check engine light either, the simple way to find out is to remove the easiest spark plug wire and use an old spark plug to detect the spark there while having someone turn the key, look at the gap at the spark plug, (do not hld it place the plug on a metal surface on the engine) there is 50,000 volts there. Other people had noticed that when turning the key they heard the fuel pump priming,that rules out the pump, read all of the posts here to rule out what is available, the Passlock thing was properly addressed.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    A Class action suit will get you nowhere.... Haven't you heard... GM went broke! But the passlock system Does not leave you stranded. If you read the owner's manual, it tells you how to do a reset and get the car started. Also, this thread mentions at least three methods of bypassing the Passlock II system, including two links to detailed instructions. Start reading at about post #23.
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    In addition to GM's financial problems, recall my earlier observation that the PassLock system is imposed upon GM by insurance companies via product-liability laws (the same laws which allow gun-control advocates to sue gun makers when a firearm is used in a crime). If you look at your insurance application, you will notice that it asks you if your car has an electronic inhibition to thieves. For having that, you get a lower rate. So, needless to say, Allstate & Co. are in no hurry to encourage or even allow disabling of the system. And, they have far more lawyers than anyone reading these posts.

    The real problem appears to be the poor quality of the system, plus the probability that "non-authorized" repair shops (plus some GM dealerships probably) don't really know how to fix the problem. I know that, when I took my Pontiac to Firestone, I literally had to go myself to the Radio Shack across the street, personally buy the switch, bring it back, and show the mechanic exactly what to do. I even had to jiggle the wires once everything was disassembled to get the car going before cutting the wire and splicing the switch. There really is a lot of ignorance out there, and it's not all in the car owners.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The real problem appears to be the poor quality of the system, plus the probability that "non-authorized" repair shops (plus some GM dealerships probably) don't really know how to fix the problem.

    Point well taken. Also the part about liability laws is very true, but that doesn't keep aftermarket suppliers like Auto One from bypassing the security system in order to install their Remote Start systems. Usually their systems are a no-brainer to install, consisting of a little box with four screw terminals. You cut the black and yellow wires, and connect the four resulting ends to the four terminals of the little box, and away you go... 15 minute job, including removing and replacing the radio. The little box costs $0.75 to build, sells for $19.95 plus installation. I'm thinking of manufacturing a screw-in module in my basement and go into competition with them, for people who just want to install their own bypass, but can't solder. How much do you think I should charge? A picture of my first prototype is at:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/PasslockModule.jpg

    By the way, what happened to posts 913 and 914? Did someone get flamed?
    Dick B.
  • wrestler145wrestler145 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    I have cut the yellow wire and did all the waiting and I still have the same problem of the car starting only once or twice a day. The question is if I reattach the yellow wire could I then go in and take out the radio and just cut the yellow wire then put in a toggle would this work. OR, could I just leave the yellow wire I cut to the BCM, solder and atta?
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Huh?

    Was the car running when you cut the wire? If not, you accomplished nothing. The car must be running when the wire is cut. If you did that, it makes no difference when you install the toggle (in the off position, so the wire stays "cut"), since all the toggle does is allow you to "reconnect" the wire if you have to change out the battery.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    WAIT!!! Wrestler!
    We can't tell you what to do if you don't tell us your symptoms. As far as i can see, this is your first post.

    Before you do anything more, what were your symptoms before you cut your yellow wire?
    * Did your car fail to start, or start and die immediately, with the "security" light flashing?
    * Was your "security" light on solid, and you tried to start the car, and it would not start, and the "security" light stayed on. (solid)?
    There is a permanent link at the top of this thread. it will get you to the definitive fix for the "security" problem, but first, you must know that what is keeping your car from running is actually the "security" problem. If the security light is not on (solid or flashing), they you must look elsewhere.
    Richard Berger
    http://www.bergerweb.net
    See my website for Grand Am and Alero Security fixes.
  • alvindmalvindm Member Posts: 6
    I should of made this a little clearer,my fault. I went into the module and cut the yellow wire and spliced into the black wire and i still have the same problem with starting the car. I still can start the car at leased once a day, but after that I have to wait til the next day to start it. I have tried the waiting of 10 minutes.
    My question is can do i have to reconnect the yellow wire on the module then try to cut the yellow wire behind the starter or can I just try cutting the yellow
    and hope for luck?
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