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Or... go to http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
It is also possible to fix the problem by removing the lock cylinder and cleaning it out with a solvent and shop air. Just remember that you need to get all the metal filings away from around the magnet.
There is a post in this thread that tells you how to remove and clean the lock cylinder. It's worth your time to go through all the posts to find it. Good luck.
Thanks....
Tell the dealer that it cannot be the ignition switch, that you just replaced the ignition switch, that he needs to hire a new head mechanic, and that you want your car back. If he's recalcitrant, threaten him with a lawsuit for civil fraud (that might help) or report him to your state "lemon law" administrator.
Then, go back in this thread and find the entries re resetting the PassLock codes, bridging the system with a resistor, or cutting it out entirely by installing a Radio Shack SPST switch for $1.99. That's what I did, and my car has not failed to start since (3.5 years). :P
That post is somewhere before post 599.
Thanks again my friend...
The post is #59, but unfortunately, the links on that post don't work any more. When I first read the post, there were photos showing the various parts of the ignition switch after disassmebly, and how to clean out the fine metal filings and put it back together. Those links are now empty.
Here is a photo of my dash board, with the radio bezel removed.
Note that there are two hex-head screws above and below the ignition switch, and slightly to the right of the centerline of the switch. These hold the switch in place. I think you can remove them and slide the switch assembly out through the radio hole. ">
It doesn't sound like your problem is the passlock system. You are losing power to your dash some other way. Just follow the troubleshooting procedure in the shop manual and you should find the problem. What??? You don't have a shop manual? Get one online from ALLDATAdiy. Best $27.00 you will ever spend.
http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity
Have a look. If you are having Passlock security problems on 1999 - 2004 GM cars, chances are my tutorial will help you.
Dick Berger
Thanks David
Thanks David
When I had mine in the shop, the mechanic had difficulty starting the car (the electric potential through the data wire was submarginal). I simply jiggled the wire while I turned the ignition. That did the trick. I got the SPST switch from the Radio Shack across the street. Total cost: $2.95 plus tax.
The switch is needed to reconnect the wire if, e.g., you have to replace the battery. When the battery dies or is disconnected, PassLock can rearm, meaning the start engine/disconnect wire procedure must be repeated. After the switch is installed, after the battery is reconnected, YOU TRY THE IGNITION FIRST. If it works, fine; if it dies, FLIP THE SWITCH TO "ON" AND GET THE CAR STARTED. Then, flip the switch to "off." That "cuts" the wire.
"Read post 599 of this thread, and all the referenced posts mentioned there, and you will have all the information you need. Or... go to http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm ."
Your engine is shutting down because the injectors are being told to cut off the fuel. Your timing has nothing to do with it.
Notes: As I understood the bergerweb directions, I cut the yellow with the car off. I started the car right after reconnecting battery, was I supposed to relearn it first??
Regardless - thank you very much lovemygrandam for all your work helping people fix GM's engineering ineptitude!
Bob
You don't have to have the BCM reprogrammed by a dealer. All you need do is the 10 minute SECURITY reset, as mentioned in the Owner's manual.
It so surprises me that so many people don't read their OWNER'S MANUAL when they run across this problem. That should be the very first thing you do when your car won't start.
"If everything above checks out, then you probably have a defective BCM. I hate to break the bad news to you, but you are one of the 3 percent or so who this mod didn't help. Un-do your work, and take your car to the dealer..."
The day after the failed fix I did disconnect the battery leaving the car dead for hours and tried the 10 min reset. No luck.
Could it be that the resistor bypass only works for systems that have not gone into full failure mode? My light was solid red before I began (it only locked me out one time for the 10 min period, 30 days ago).
thanks
It's time for you to get a shop manual and go through the troubleshooting procedure. There are a number of possible causes, including Bad grounding points, broken wiring between the BCM and PCM, It's also possible to get hold of the wrong black wire. You could try putting the system back to it's original configuration, and then doing the modification according to the instructions at:
http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/index.shtml
More information needed.
Is your security light still on solid?
Is it off?
Does your car start?
All symptoms of the worn ignition cylinder led up to my current trouble:
- harmless intermittent Security light for two months or so (that's when I found your website so I was ready for what came next, I'd already bought the resistor etc.)
- a single total lockout that needed a 10 minute relearn
- solid Security light since that day (and after the bypass)
B6 is the black wire I tapped into. Hope the '04 GA GT doesn't differ from your '02 GA SE, I'll try to locate a shop manual.
Thank you again lovemygrandam.
THANKS,
PBURDS
go to this website and follow the directions.
http://bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/index.shtml
The instructions are for an alero, but it's the same as the Grand Am.
But, if you paid to have the problem fixed, they should warrant the work. Take it back to the dealer, and tell them it didn't work, you are still having the same problem. If they don't fix it, take them to small claims court. After you pay $400 or so for a fix, you should be able to EXPECT it to be fixed. Don't pay them any more, unless they first refund the money from the fix they tried that didn't work. You shouldn't have to pay for the incompetence of the dealer.
Dick B
The real problem appears to be the poor quality of the system, plus the probability that "non-authorized" repair shops (plus some GM dealerships probably) don't really know how to fix the problem. I know that, when I took my Pontiac to Firestone, I literally had to go myself to the Radio Shack across the street, personally buy the switch, bring it back, and show the mechanic exactly what to do. I even had to jiggle the wires once everything was disassembled to get the car going before cutting the wire and splicing the switch. There really is a lot of ignorance out there, and it's not all in the car owners.
Point well taken. Also the part about liability laws is very true, but that doesn't keep aftermarket suppliers like Auto One from bypassing the security system in order to install their Remote Start systems. Usually their systems are a no-brainer to install, consisting of a little box with four screw terminals. You cut the black and yellow wires, and connect the four resulting ends to the four terminals of the little box, and away you go... 15 minute job, including removing and replacing the radio. The little box costs $0.75 to build, sells for $19.95 plus installation. I'm thinking of manufacturing a screw-in module in my basement and go into competition with them, for people who just want to install their own bypass, but can't solder. How much do you think I should charge? A picture of my first prototype is at:
http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/PasslockModule.jpg
By the way, what happened to posts 913 and 914? Did someone get flamed?
Dick B.
Was the car running when you cut the wire? If not, you accomplished nothing. The car must be running when the wire is cut. If you did that, it makes no difference when you install the toggle (in the off position, so the wire stays "cut"), since all the toggle does is allow you to "reconnect" the wire if you have to change out the battery.
We can't tell you what to do if you don't tell us your symptoms. As far as i can see, this is your first post.
Before you do anything more, what were your symptoms before you cut your yellow wire?
* Did your car fail to start, or start and die immediately, with the "security" light flashing?
* Was your "security" light on solid, and you tried to start the car, and it would not start, and the "security" light stayed on. (solid)?
There is a permanent link at the top of this thread. it will get you to the definitive fix for the "security" problem, but first, you must know that what is keeping your car from running is actually the "security" problem. If the security light is not on (solid or flashing), they you must look elsewhere.
Richard Berger
http://www.bergerweb.net
See my website for Grand Am and Alero Security fixes.
My question is can do i have to reconnect the yellow wire on the module then try to cut the yellow wire behind the starter or can I just try cutting the yellow
and hope for luck?