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Chevrolet Malibu Transmission

minn_maxxminn_maxx Member Posts: 51
E2,

Can you tell if my transmission falls under the "howl" TSB based on my VIN? 167044

I have taken it to the dealer three times for this problem. 1st time they said it was "bearing noise" and not the howl TSB, 2nd time they could not hear it and the last time they tightened an exhaust heat shield. It sounds like a ball bearing lightly rattling in a can and varies with speed (loudest on manual deceleration 4-to-3 or 3-to-2).

I have rented one Maxx and three G6's and none make this noise.

Thanks in advance.
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Comments

  • davismaxxdavismaxx Member Posts: 33
    We haven't had the "howl" issue with our transmission, but now at 18K it is making a wheeze/scratch sound on the 3-4 shift under load, such as uphill or with weight, but not on light acceleration. Reminds me of the sound I have heard in lots of buses with automatics--sort of like it is under-lubricated. Anyone else experienced this/gotten it fixed?

    Also--any more news on the steering rattle? We were at a camp this summer on a dirt road and it sounded like the whole front suspension was coming apart--something is really loose in there. You feel it in the wheel as well as hearing it. I've had no luck with this at two dealers--both are in areas with extremely smooth streets so no way to demonstrate it!

    DavisMaxx
    2004 LS
    May '04 build
    vin 237245
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I assume you mean the 4-3 down shift under load, have not heard about it before.
    The steering preload needs adjusting, I think you need a new dealer. :)
  • davismaxxdavismaxx Member Posts: 33
    I mean the upshift. If it winds out to 3500 rpm or so before shifting to 4th I get the noise. There is a high pitched component to it. It's sort of a cricket sound.

    I see that "steering preload" adjustment seems to have solved the steering rattle for someone else. I'll ask about that.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    I believe your vehicle likely falls into the range although it is really based on date code of the transmission. However your description of the noise and when it occurs doesn't sound like the same complaint that is addressed by TSB #04-07-30-021A which is for a growl or howl. Sorry :confuse:
  • minn_maxxminn_maxx Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for the fast reply. Unfortunately, I can't verify the trans date code. Half the transmission case was replaced due to porosity in the casting (causing a leak). Noise problem came up afterwards :(
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    My dealer during my car's 35.5K check (did the 36K early) determined the rattles I have been hearing are now due to both the front struts. Both parts went on order today.

    They also told me my front rotor pads were nearly worn out (1-2 mm of pad left), at 35K miles. The advisor that talked to me has been reputable in the past.

    Amazing how fast those pads wore as I am by no means an aggressive driver. Ditto how fast the front struts have died.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    I think I'm going to be getting out of mine as soon as I can. :sick: Just last Friday, I was driving to work and my transmission slipped 5 times. I drove to the dealer after work and I got a big hassle about reading the codes or at least putting on the VDR. Finally they agreed to put the VDR on only to find out it doesn't work with the CAN system in my car. The CAN network has been out for how long now and they still haven't ordered a CAN VDR? On the way home, the transmission was sluggish and harsh, but it didn't slip. If I had a tech with me, he would probably say those were normal, but I know my car and this was unusually harsh. I made a short trip on Saturday and it was perfectly smooth. I don't know what to do with this car now. I am tired of things breaking, getting fixed, only to have something else break again. I have three parts on order and two items rescheduled and now this and a rough idle.

    I'm going to have to drive it around today to see if it will experience the same problem it had on Friday. I'm almost afraid to though. I've read horror stories where people's car's transmissions don't work under a circumstance but after sitting awhile, they work again. I'm not liking what I'm seeing, where one day its slipping and the next its perfectly normal. The service manager flat out told me that if I can't get the thing to go and have it towed in and they can't duplicate when they try it, I have to pay the tow bill.

    Wish me luck. :sick:
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    Taking it to the dealer didn't do a single bit of good. They aren't interested in solving the problem. Even though it slipped multiple times during driving with a tech they said that it was normal because it wasn't excessively bad. Couldn't find any codes either. I've had it with this car and with GM. :mad:
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    a slipping trans is not normal.....you need a new dealership.....GM needs to tighten its rein on its dealerships IMHO.....its the customer service or lack there of in the dealerships that are really hurting them..not Corporate GM themselves....
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Visit the Lutz blog and all you will hear about are new models, not about any customer support improvements.

    Agreed that dealer service is an inconsistant mess. The outfit at one dealer I visit couldn't tighten a loose screw, then was sacked, manager and all, a few months ago. The new management seems to be trying harder, but they are inheriting a lot of skeptical customers.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627

    Agreed that dealer service is an inconsistant mess. The outfit at one dealer I visit couldn't tighten a loose screw, then was sacked, manager and all, a few months ago. The new management seems to be trying harder, but they are inheriting a lot of skeptical customers.


    The sad thing was this dealer had a great service manager prior to the 1st of this year. Come the 1st, the dealer's general manager let him go and installed this new stingy guy. With all the problems this car has, and the fact that, not soon after I get one thing fixed something else breaks, I'm just going to see if I can dump it. If not, then I guess I'll have to see if there is another dealership in the area that can shuttle me to work.

    I even told them about the TSB that GM has for slipping transmissions, which includes even if it doesn't set a code and they just ignored it. I really hope I get a survey from GM about them. :P
  • blackmaxx1blackmaxx1 Member Posts: 5
    I have exactly the same problem with my 04 Maxx LT transmission since I bought it 8000 miles ago. The sound is only on upshifting under load. The dealer replaced the accessory drive belt with a new belt(new design), but the problem remains. Any idea yet what is causing the sound?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    yep, I heard that same noise the other day while I was driving in the city. I figured I was in for a tough ride home, but the problem has not appeared again since. Does your tranny noise happen all the time on the upshift, or is it another noise which comes and goes.
  • blackmaxx1blackmaxx1 Member Posts: 5
    The sound comes and goes, but I hear it every day. The more load on the engine, like 3 passengers in the car, the better the chances of hearing the noise. Only on upshifting.
  • malibuinscmalibuinsc Member Posts: 10
    Hi, Some of your problems aren't too hard to explain. I've had those too. I have over 203,000 miles on my 98 Malibu LS. Those squeaks you hear are the rear control arm bushings that are located near the center of the suspension setup. Bushings should be about $20.00. A dealer here in SC charged me $66.00 to install. Check different dealerships, they charge different prices. The A/C problem is your control panel in the car. Mine was notorious for that. You can expect to pay about $100 - $160 for that part. Price again varies by dealer. You can fix it yourself. Just pop that plastic trim and ignition key cover off and unscrew the control panel. You may need a Allen screwhead driver. The wires and vacuum lines are easy to disconnect and connect. They may take a little effort. The notorious manifold gasket leak on the right side above transmission is a design flaw. There is a new graphite gasket GM is using for all the 60 degree V6 engines that leak. I had mine replaced at 77,000. It started this year again, but mine was replaced before the new type gasket came out. I use bars stop leak. Works well and no leaks. No effect on cooling system and I travel in South Carolina summers and commute to work that averages 500 miles a week not including regular town travel. The lunge thing I can't figure. Maybe a transmission issue. Aluminum valvebody will wear from check ball movement and fluid doesn't properly pressurize to move gears. Had mine replaced and fixed at 173,000 miles. Keep eye on trans. That valvebody is a $700.00 job. That was quoted from a GM dealer and a independent shop I trust. The independent did the work. Not a chain shop either. That water pump is about $20.00 at the part store and will last just the same as stock. Had mine replaced at around 90,000 miles. Easy fix for a side mechanic. Hopes this helps. Peace and longevity to your Malibu. I'm enjoying mine.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    The water pump leaking as a failure is normal for cars. Some may go 200K and some 60K miles before it happens. It's a wear item. A factor is whether the coolant was changed every two years or 36K miles, in my opinion. And that includes any with Dexcool. Coolant lubricates the waterpump.

    The rear bushings are typical of rubber parts that sometimes don't selflubricate the way it was planned. Sometimes a special type of spray may lube them at the squeak point; sometimes they just need to be replaced.

    I have seen the AC control problems mentioned. The idea of an air filter in the AC unit is a question I'm not sure why it was asked. A filter clogs up and needs to be replaced. It can serve as a haven for mold if not replaced. But I don't think your car had one to begin with.

    The transmission like symptom I can only recommend a good shop who is used to GM cars to check it. It might be transmission but the first thing is usually engine. The motor having problems can confuse the controls for a transmission. Have the plugs and wires been replaced on the motor? The plugs were probably rated at 100K then and I replace mine at about 60-70K miles. The plug wires break down and don't work causing misfires. Those are regular maintenance items that some people skip thinking there's no problem. But having them working poorly sometimes causes other ignition parts to fail that create the spark. So regular upkeep is necessary on all cars.

    The soft brake pedal is a safety item. Do not drive it that way. You are endangering others and yourself. That could be from a vacuum hose off on the motor and that would make the motor run poorly and cause the check engine light to come on.

    Has the car had the oil changed and the ball joints greased. That's another item people skip that ends up costing in the end. That might be the source of noise in the rear end if ball joints are dry or worn.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • landrarodglandrarodg Member Posts: 5
    All routine maintenance SINCE we have owned it has been accomplished. I wouldn't complain otherwises. And the air filter ? was posed because when the A/C pulls air from the outside (there are two options re-circulating and the vent which pulls air from outside) the system does not want to stay on re-circulating air it will switch back ten times in two minutes....I have to keep pressing the re-circulating button over and over and over everywhere I go. We want it set this way BECAUSE the air coming in the car when it is set on outside vent smells like exhaust as if our windows are rolled down. That is why I asked about the filter. We live in FL as I mentioned before and our A/C is a high priority to go anywhere and on top of that we live in a very, very large city and there is always traffic. I don't want to smell exhaust all the hours I am driving!! We have been very ambitious in doing what is required to keep our vehicle running at it's best. I HAVE NOT driven it AT ALL since the brakes went soft. The moment that happened I turned right back into my apartment complex and it is being towed to get fixed. I AM MORE worried about the safety of MY TWO children than anyone else and for you to assume I would put ANYONE's life in danger is offensive. Not only do I not want to be a danger to others on the road but the car my family will be traveling in whether it is mine or someone else's will be one that is dependable and safe. I did not join this forum to berate or belittle anyone. I was looking for others who have had similar issues and could give a little insight into our problems with our Malibu. I also wanted to mention we bought this car second hand and we have no control over what happened to it before we bought it. THANK YOU!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    Thank you for being safe about the brakes. It is possible to drive a car slowly using the emergency brake gently for stopping to get to a service locationl.

    The recirculate uses some inside air and draws in some outside air with it. So recirculate doesn't completely eliminate the outside air with other car's fumes.

    There might be a seal around the hood between it and the air intake for the heater/AC below the windshield an the seal is out of place or torn. That could let air from your own engine compartment into the air inlet. That could have an oily or motor smell in it. You might be smelling some of your own motor.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 37453745 Member Posts: 152
    "All routine maintenance SINCE we have owned it has been accomplished".

    The problem here is that good maintenance now does not undo bad maintenance by the previous owner. Unless a reliable maintenance log was supplied to you by the previous owner you'll never know what the car has been put through.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The AC switching on and off is known problem in the previous model Malibu (1997-2003). Do a search on this forum and you will find many posts of people complaining about this issue. It is not the filter that is the problem. Question for you: does the AC work if you use the outside air?

    the bbrakes are another weak spot of this model Malibu. I'm glad you had it towed and didn't drive it. It could be a noumber of things that could have caused the problem. then again it could be a one time occurrence.

    Like I mentinoed in my previous post, you are at the point mileage wise where things tend to go. Also the other owners said it was reliable because they ignored some obvious things. I'm sure the coolant was leaking which is a classic sign of the intake manifold gasket problem. Very well documented problem with GM small block V6 engines. You paid $1500 to repair, should have only been $700 or so. You paid $800 for rear brakes. That is excessive if it was just replace rotors and brake pads esp. for this vehicle.

    YOu mention you bought it second hand and had no control over what happened to it before you bought it. did you have a mechanic check out the vehicle before you purchased it? Did you do any research on 1998 malibu before you purchased it? These two steps are critical esp. if you are purchasing a vehicle privately and without a warranty.

    I'm not trying to berate or belittle you but in the amount of time it took you to write your original post, you could have done some basic research here on Edmunds and read for yourself that the issues you are dealing with are common for this vehicle. I owned a 2001 malibu for a little over 2 years which is why I know your problems are typical. Not a good expereince and needed a bigger car for a growing family. I got out while the gettin' was good.
  • landrarodglandrarodg Member Posts: 5
    We did not unfortunately have it checked, like I mentioned in my original post we purchased it from a family member. It was a family member on my husband's side and the option of buying it was at a time in which we needed a car desperately. I did not want to purchase the vehicle at all...I wished to purchase a more reliable car. But I was reassured by his family that this vehicle was perfectly maintained...which I found out a month later from my father-in-law that it WAS NOT and they did not wish us to share our problems with the family member we purchased it from.

    It is and has been needless to say a very sticky situation from the start. Lesson learned...especially for my husband who wanted to trust his family and did not want to hurt them by heeding my advice and purchase a different vehicle. He wanted to trust their judgment. But hindsight is always 20/20 and it will NEVER happen again without a mechanic in the mix.

    We did have it fixed today and it was the EGR valve which was causing a multitude of problems including the brakes. It was messing up the computer in the car and making everything malfunction...we shall see how it does in the next few months. At this point I feel so financially attached to the car that I feel there is practically no way to get rid of it!!! We also replaced the plugs and wires and we hope to have small high-mileage maintenance issues in the future. Which we happily have taken care of all along. We will keep our fingers crossed and get out when we can.

    Also the prices we paid on the manifold included some work on the front tie rod (left outer replaced) and some minor issues under the hood. And the work on the rear brakes was extremely extensive...the pads were worn to the metal and the pads had just been replaced two months earlier (the previous owner brought the car to an unreliable mechanic). There was more damage than just the obvious brake pad and clip issues. It's been over a year and I can not remember all that was included on the brake work.

    I Will Keep Everyone Posted...Thank you everyone for all your info and advice...landrarodg
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    I'm really glad to hear you found the EGR problem and that fixed a lot of things. Much better than a trans problem which I really didn't think it was. Remember plugs and wires every 60-70K miles!

    Was the trans oil changed at some time with just a drain and replacement filter? That's the only thing I can think that should be checked or changed before 100K.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I'm glad you got the car fixed. I was going to suggest the EGR valve for the lurching but figure let a professional diagnose the problem. I'm glad to expounded on the cost for the other repairs. That makes sense.

    As you mentioned, you are financially attached to this vehicle now. I hope the worst is behind you. I can't imagin e anythign else going wrong. YOu did what any of us would do when buying from a family member, you took their word. Next time take it to a mechanic and get their opinion.

    You are probably looking at changing the coolant (not unless it was changed when they did the manifold gasket) and transmission fluid next.

    Good luck.
  • landrarodglandrarodg Member Posts: 5
    Thank you again...everyone! We had everything fixed for the time being but I took it in yesterday for the oil change they forgot to do when they fixed the EGR valve and they found that our intake manifold is leaking...again. That part was fixed and replaced about 15 months ago and is causing problems again. Well, we will take it back to the dealer under it's warranty. It's just extremely frustrating...I will keep you all posted...
  • landrarodglandrarodg Member Posts: 5
    Hello again everyone. I told everyone that I would keep you all updated. Well, it isn't a good update. I did mention in my last post that when I took my Malibu to get it's oil changed they informed me that oil was leaking from the back of the intake manifold which only means to me more problems. I know nothing about how parts work together and where goes what and why. I only drive it and take care of the routine maintenance. So it didn't seem strange to me that he told me that. I just knew I had to take it to the dealership because we had our intake manifold replaced 16 months ago. Well, I spoke with my husband and others who know about cars and there is no oil "involved" with the intake. Anyway, I have taken it to Chevy three times and they have not been able to look at it yet due to a mountain of bad circumstances. And then a friend thought that we were leaking tranny fluid. Well, it's oil not tranny fluid. How he could confuse one for the other boggles my mind. But anyway, we are taking it in on Monday and I wanted to ask everyone if anyone might have an idea where it might be leaking from. It is leaking very slowly. We are only seeing one or two drips where we park. Most of it is ending up on top of another part inside the right side of the motor. What part I don't know. But it is about half way down the motor. My husband is afraid it is a seal on the motor...? I know this is limited info. But anyone's ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am at the end of my rope. We have to sell our second car to pay to have this one fixed because our other car can't carry our kids or we would dump the Malibu. Any ideas, suggestions, prices?...anything at all...a very frustrated landrarodg.
  • crosby1crosby1 Member Posts: 23
    I would like to flush the trany on my 2004 Maxx. Has anyone done this himself? I brought it to a backyard mechanic who flushed my Lesabre but he told me he couldn't find either the inlet or outlet hose (I don't recall which) to do the job.
    35,000 miles, bought it new, no problems...yet.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I thought the tranny fluid was good to 100k miles?????
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    >100k miles?????

    Only if you want to play Hondamatic with your tranny.

    I drain and replaced filter at 35 K on my 03 leSabre.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    way too early imidazl97. The interval is 60+ for a tranny flush.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    straight from the owners manual:\

    change automatic transaxle fluid and filter at 50K miles if the vehicle is driven under one or more of the following conditions:

    in heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90 degrees or higher

    in hilly or mountainous terrain

    when doing frequent trailer towing

    uses such as found in a taxi, police or delivery service

    if you do not use your vehicle under any of these condition, the fluid and filter do not need to be changed

    page 6-9 on of the 2004 owners manual

    I have over 76K on my car and will have it done at the 100k service....
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    You can do the drain based on your service manual interpretations; I'll do them based on my service manager and other mechanics I've heard say the same thing. I don't want deposits to form inside the tranny that are hard to redissolve later and will cause trouble with some of the moving parts.

    I drain my own. My service manager recommended each 36K mi on my 98 LeSabre and 03 LeSabre knowing they weren't going to do it. That's what he does with his own cars. I consider 3 years or 36000 miles as the max I'll go. I drop the pan, catch the old oil, replace the filter for about $30 including a new Purolator filter from PepBoys and 6 quarts of Valvoline Dextron III. The filter probably should go to 72 K before changing. Suit yourself.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • crosby1crosby1 Member Posts: 23
    I had asked in an earlier post if anyone had flushed their own trany fluid. I had read posts about someone's trany issue. I started carefully listening to my trany and the symptoms were the same as the previous post (I forget which) indicated: a very soft trany rumble going up an incline at relatively slow speeds. Apparently a flush would not have sufficed as the dealer garage (with 800 miles left on the warranty (35,200 miles) identified it as a pinion gear, which they are now replacing. I will have the filter replace, new seals installed a full flush (mainly to clean out the torque converter), a free rental car for several days all free of charge.
    This forum has saved me from paying a lot of money to have the whole trany pulled apart and a spendy part replaced. Special thanks to E2 Helper. You have been a steadfast and informed presence for us all.
    By the way, I had place some small, but extraordinarily powerful, rare earth (neodymium) magnets (bought them on Ebay) on the OUTSIDE of the trany pan shortly after buying the car new. The mechanic showed me a significant build up of metalic particles (all tolled about one eighth the mass of a dime) on the INSIDE of the trany pan where the magnets had been placed, when he had it off.

    2004 Maxx LS
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,122
    There should be a 2 inch square piece of flexible rubber magnet on the bottom of the oil pan exactly where the fluid drains out of the upper part of the transmission. There's a little imprint on the pan where it's to be placed. That thing is usually covered with a goo of magnetic, very fine particles from wear in the transmission. If the magnet doesn't grab them, the filter will catch them before they recirculate. Extra magnets won't hurt. Neat idea.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    again..this is a personal choice as you mentioned....as is a every 3K mile oil change, which I personally think is a waste of resources and money.......unfortunately Im not in a position to change either my oil or trans fluid on my own.....so I service the car IAW manufacturers recommendations...

    of course its always better to do more than less....dont quite understand why a service manager would go against his own manufacturers recommended service intervals...obviously a reason for it.....maybe experience with the particular car, maybe wanting to get more business, who knows...

    I do almost 30K a year on a car and routinely do oil and other basic maintenance....but major servicing has always been by recommended intervals....96 Bronco 168K on it and still strong...04 Malibu Maxx LT.....78K on it....and not problem one....
  • hillbennyhillbenny Member Posts: 3
    hello, just purchased a used 99 malibu and dont have a manuel yet can someone please tell me how much automatic transmission fluid it holds,
  • hillbennyhillbenny Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the link.unfortunately it doesnt answer my question,you see my problem is theres no check stick.i changed the filter and put six quarts of fluid in.but im not sure if its enough or to much?anyone know the correct amount,
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    SM gives approximate measures depending on service performed.

    Bottom pan removal 6.9 qt, complete overhaul 9.5 qt, dry 12.9 qt.

    You likely know that to check level you need to remove the transmission plug with engine running but that procedure is too detailed to provide here.
  • hillbennyhillbenny Member Posts: 3
    looks like 6.9 for me then.thanks e2helper
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Do it right,check the fluid level, unless you have $1500 to throw away.
  • umcckiumccki Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I've been trying to search the posts for a problem similar to mine but I haven't found anything so here goes:
    I have a 2006 Malibu. Ever since I purchased the car last February, it has had the same problem. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times with no solution and I'm frustrated beyond belief. I do believe, however that I have been able to figure out all the symptoms as time goes on.

    Here's the scenario. I am just starting my car in a parking lot and attempt to immediately put it into drive, it will not go any faster than 40mph thereafter. It will act as if it was in neutral the entire time, which is extremely dangerous since I have to merge on the highway a lot. The only way I can fix the issue is by putting the car into reverse, backing up a little bit, and then put it back into drive again.

    For this issue to occur, the car must be in the following conditions.
    -the car has been turned off more than 15 minutes prior to ignition
    -the car must immediately go into drive (no backing out of a parking spot)
    -the car must not immediately accelerate and stay in the 5-10mph range for at least 20 seconds.

    I have taken the car multiple times to the dealership but since it never throws any kind of code, they don't know what to do. In fact, they have only been able to replicate the situation once (which I believe is due to the fact that I recently figured out the "immediately accelerate" condition and the service center parking lot is nothing but hills. So far they have updated the codes and replaced the solenoid but all I end up doing now is taking it to the shop and gettting a rental car every couple of months when I have the energy to deal with the problem. I'm pretty sure this could be fixed by changing a part, but the problem is, what part?

    Oh, and just in case you want to know, the car is an automatic. From the information that passengers in my car have given me that have driven manual cars, they seem to think it is not neutral that it is stuck at but rather a particular gear (but they can't seem to agree if it is high or low gear that it is stuck at).

    I'm running out of options and patience. Anyone have any ideas? :confuse:
  • fasilidfasilid Member Posts: 7
    redmaxx wrote I even told them about the TSB that GM has for slipping transmissions, which includes even if it doesn't set a code and they just ignored it.

    My car is a 2005 Maxx LS. I looked for a TSB related to slipping transmissions (at the Chevy website) on the Maxx and couldn't find it. Any more details on the slipping transmission TSB and does it apply to my vehicle? Thanks!
  • zjimzjim Member Posts: 51
    I purchased a '99 Malibu with 71000 miles from a private party a couple of months ago. I took the car for a ride, driving about 10 miles in about 15-20 minutes. Everything worked properly and I could not find fault with anything, including the transmission. The car had good service records, Carfax report, etc., etc.

    I drove the car back and forth to work (about 8 miles) for a couple weeks and the transmission was shifting nicely. The first longer trip that I took on a very hot day, I noticed the 1-2 shift produced a slight "shudder" after the car was driven about 15 miles. Traffic was rather heavy and I notice that if I accelerated slowly the shift was very smooth, but if I accelerated more aggressively the "shudder" appeared with part throttle. A WOT 1-2 shift was very rough. If I back off the throttle very briefly to let the car shift, there's no problem. The car shows no signs of leaks, anywhere, and the maintenance record shows that the trans fluid and filter was changed at 45000 miles.

    I'm taking the car in for a fluid and filter change, without mentioning the problem to the service tech. I want to see if changing the filter and fluid will yield any potential mechanical problems. Since this is an electronic transmission, is it possible that there is something other than a mechanical (possibly clutch problem) causing these symptoms? I don't want a less than honest repair shop charging for a trans rebuild when it's something less expensive to repair. Any help appreciated. By the way, the car continues to run perfectly as I drive back and forth to work, or short trips of less that 12 miles.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    When in for the work have the codes checked, maybe one there.
  • zjimzjim Member Posts: 51
    The problem is that I'm not getting any check engine light. I believe that for a code to store, a light must be on for a number of seconds to record the code in memory, but I'll ask. I'm going to try to be there when they drain the trans fluid. I want to see and smell to see if there is any indication of burned clutches. I would think that if it was a clutch pack problem the fluid would be really filthy, with a lot of metal metallic pigment in the fluid. If that's the case, it's time to trade or face a $2000 repair bill on a $3000 car.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    All codes don't set a light, people think you always need a light.
    What I was thinking of was Code P01870, worn valve body, but that is just a guess.
  • zjimzjim Member Posts: 51
    If it was a worn valve body, wouldn't it act the same way whether the car was cold or warm? The car shifts great until the temp gage gets to it's normal position. Anybody else have any similar experience?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    No, the key to worn valve body is it will malfunction when hot, and ok when cold. Transmission fluid has more resistance when cold, get it hot and it will pass through a small opening at high volume causing pressure loss. A worn valve in the valve body is such a small opening.
    Take it to a good independent transmission shop for a diagnosis, a chain shop will just sell you a rebuilt transmission. Good Luck
  • zjimzjim Member Posts: 51
    When the car is hot, I avoid accelerating too rapidly until the car shifts to 2nd gear. What is the risk of just driving car, as is. When ambient temps are down, the car performs mostly normal. With winter coming, I doubt that the problem will be very serious. In all my years of being an auto enthusiast, I've never heard of a "worn" valve body. The only problems with the valve body is when fluid is not change and varnish begins to deposit in the valve body, causing the valves to act sluggisly, effecting the crispness of the shift. The cure for those problems was to change the fluid and add one of the name brand transmission fluid conditioners. That usually improved trans performance. If, in fact, there is wear in the valve body, I would think that just replacing the body would do the trick.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    The hard shifts are not good for the transmission. If it is in fact a worn valve body, it can overheat the trans and burn it up, the converter will turn blue from heat.
    Just recently I saw a post from a long time trans. Tech, he now states the cause of the worn valve body housing is a worn oil pump stator bushing. No enough oil getting to the valve body, I am going to follow up on that.
    Like I stated before only a good independent trans. Tech can diagnosis your problem. A lot of things in the trans have changed since the OD units were installed, a whole lot of new problems.
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