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Pontiac Bonneville Starting/Stallling/Ignition Problems

124

Comments

  • tjii81tjii81 Member Posts: 1
    i have an '01 bonnie that ran out of gas, i re fueled to 1/4 tank, and now i have no spark. replaced the pcm and still no spark. I was told that the cam/crankshaft position sensors were good. the ignition control module under the coils passed the test OK. I'm now at a loss as to where to look next. there were no problems prior to running out of gas. power everything still works. Battery is good w/ good connections and ground. any suggestions???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    > security light staying on.

    How does the car run?

    If the car starts, you do not have a VATS problem. Since you didn't say anything about the car not cranking, I assume it runs okay. The VATS system prevents the car from cranking and the injectors from injecting fuel. It turns the security light on flashing for 3 minutes, then it's ready to read the resistance from the key chip again for the driver to try to start once more. But until then no cranking.

    If your car has a theft & tampering system, that may be your problem. I have not had experience with the _security_ system portion of that light which involves theft prevention of the car by checking doors, trunk, etc. I have seen a few posts where prople suggest disconnecting the wire to the sensor on the trunk latch. They claim it fails and causes a security llight for the car theft/tampering portion.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • denny115denny115 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1994 bonneville 3800 engine it will start and then shut down after running about 5 seconds ,ive changed the computer and chip key too match and also the ignition moduale,(and they all came from a running 1994 bonneville with a 3800 engine) checked all the fuses and relays,i and its getting fuel
    im at my whits end!!!
    cant get no help form the dealerships all they want is money and no advice
    i just dont know what too check next!!
  • crossquillscrossquills Member Posts: 1
    1988 Bonneville LE set up for a year or two with occasional start and drive
    brought car ran good for two days
    started sputtering, fluttering and jerking
    Changed plugs (split fires pre gap) and wires air filter OK, replaced brittle vac line
    car ran good next day sputtering
    Changed fuel filter let idle for 20 or so minutes to check for leaks
    cut it off, re started, drove around block, put it in reverse to park, it cut off
    crank but no start
    Let engine cool, re checked my work, plugs/wires tight, filter (correct flow to engine)
    force idle until it held, cat converter got glowing hot
    pulled ECM code 44, O2 sensor/rich detected
    crank no start
    replaced plugs with AC/Delco standard w/spec. gap of 0.60
    crank, start but stall unless I force idle (smell gas but no leaks)
    pull pcv check for rattle, clean and put back
    pull O2 sensor clean off, put back
    pull EGR clean out, wire brush off put back
    disconnected neg terminal reset and repulled codes just a 12, diagnostic mode
    crank start and will hold idle after "babying" gas pedal (tach at 1200)
    cat converter no glow (smell gas but no leaks)
    put in drive, reverse will stall out unless I brake, accelerate, and put in gear
    still stall when I try to drive.
    would like to idle up to get to shop to real mechanic but cant find Idle adj screw.
    Haynes manual shows nothing but says I have 1989 - 1991 3800 eng.
  • pgfalconpgfalcon Member Posts: 5
    I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, new air filter, new fuel filter checked all of the fuses, changed the oil in this car. Sometimes when I start it takes several seconds for the engine to turn over and start the car. When I apply the accelerator it fires right up. I have also been using high octane fuel and a fuel additive. I have also used Lucas Injector Cleaner. The vehicle does get better fuel mileage even gotten 450 for an 18 gallon tank half highway.

    Also the engine will sometimes stop running if left to idle for about 10 minutes. Once while the hood was open I noticed a slight puff of air/steam come near the water pump and intake. Any suggestions?

    PGFALCON
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    What kind of car do you have? Year? Mileage? Background?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • pgfalconpgfalcon Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 Pontiac Boneville SE. It has 128,000 miles on it. I am the third owner. The first was an older military vet who had if for nearly fvie years, then another older gentleman bought it and had it for six months and now I have it. My car is super clean and very well taken care of. I have reciepts for regular routine maintenace. Only leakage I have is a small on the head with minimal oil residue. This vehicle has only highway mileage as well. What else do you need to know?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Did you start the car without touching the accelerator? That's the way it should start best.

    Try turning the key to ON for 3 seconds, then OFF and back to ON. Repeat for 3 times total. Then turn the key to START. If the car seems to start faster, it may be losing pressure in the fuel line, usually a fuel pump problem.

    If the plugs and wires aren't OEM iridium for plugs and OEM equivalent for the wires, I'd work on those.

    The stalling could be a fuel pump.

    I recommend NOT using premium fuel. The car was designed to run on 87. The higher octane leaves more crud in the combustion chamber because it's burning more slowly.

    Find the fuel pressure regulator (on the metal fuel line on motor with a small vacuum hose to it) and remove the vacuum hose a look for fuel. If you get a strong smell of fuel it may mean the FPR is leaking.

    You may need to have your MAF cleaned. The two fine wires pick up dust from the air. They sell sprays for MAF and air intake cleaning at the auto stores.

    I'd save the money for the high octane and use regular, and the Lucas additive and just use an additive occasionally like every 10,000 miles at most.

    Watch for seeps at the water pump and the connectors from intake manifold to bracket for tensioner. The o-rings can leak after aging.

    Watch the level of coolant inside the radiator; dont' just check the reservoir. Sometimes a leak won't suck the coolant out of reservoir but will take in air causing the radiator to drop.

    Check transmission drain and filter change. Should be 40K miles or so, but the manual says at 100K miles.

    check the coolant quality. It should be changed every two years by draining and refilling with fresh coolant.

    What color coolant do you have?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • booboo1173booboo1173 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, PLEASE helop me out here. My boyfriend is stuck right now with my 96 bonneville and it will not start, the alarm keeps going off and I dont know what to do to override it. He unlocked the door with the right key, but the car will not start. He said something about bypassing the valet switch? Does anyone know how to do this, he said it was something like a series of steps you do and it turns the valet off. please help if you know anything about this. Thank you
  • becar3becar3 Member Posts: 3
    Have read a number of posts as to why Bonnevilles stall while going down the road.
    Dealer wants to replace the Mass Air Flow Filter for about $400.00. From what I can read this is not the problem. But I also don't read that there is an answer to this problem. Can anyone help be out here, can't see spending the money if it won't solve the problem. Car always restarts after a rest but the problem is still there and very dangerous as it just stops.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Is the type of stall instant like it's electrical?
    If not, then the fuel pressure must be tested while it's running and hopefully when it stalls. Since it needs a short rest to "cool"? that might indicate a pump. Get a fuel pressure gauge from a store that loans them and tape it to the windshield while you drive (need longer hose?) and watch for the stall and see what the fuel pressure is at that time. Luckily pumps in the 2003 are accessible through the trunk!!!

    Or a crankshaft position sensor. But those are in the mid 90s cars that crankshaft position sensors occasionally give. Splashing cold water on a sensor is supposed to help it restart as a test for the symptom.

    MAFs can be removed and cleaned. Replace only with a GM brand for best success. If someone has an equivalent one to substitute for yours to drive a while and see if the problem goes away, that's ideal. Does someone have a parts car for you?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • becar3becar3 Member Posts: 3
    Not electrial..lights, radio, heat etc work even when totally stopped.

    Liking your fuel pressure gauge thing when it stalls out no reaction to apply gas petal.

    Just not buying dealers MAF theroy

    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    It might be worth looking at the MAF. They are easily removed with a security torx bit, available in sets at Harbor Freight, etc. Use MAF spray cleaner on the fragile, fragile wires inside the plastic housing that have the airstream moving over them.

    It might need cleaning. Some cars get the throttle plate area gunked up with crankcase fumes that condense in the entrance to the upper intake manifold when the car is shut off.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • johnjewkesjohnjewkes Member Posts: 6
    On mine, it was a combination of events: Cheap Gas with high sulfur and 10% Ethanol mix (Partially clogs fuel filter); Back pressure pushes weak fuel pump to being even weaker; MAF Sensor wires were coated with Fume Effluences, caused by clogged PCV and EGR systems. Tuning up, cleaning and running both fuel and oil cleanings got it back to running fine. Total replacement of a MAF is rarely needed under 150,000 miles per a long time mechanic friend from Church, Just some dealers would rather replace at set cost than trying to clean, diagnose and repair final source of problem. Will get worse as Pontiac branding and dealers go away. First, check the filters and sensors for clogs, dirt, fume coating. Then (or at same time) check the fuel pressure out--- MAKE SURE that all fuel fittings used for adding the gauge are tight/free of leaks to avoid fire/separate loss of pressure. Then, buy only fuel fro trusted sources, such as the major brands. (Fast Tommie's Fuel & Smoke mart probably isn't it). If one or both sensor wires in the MAF are frayed or satretched, you will have to replace the package, ($400 +/-).
    Good Luck!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Sounds like you had a bad gas fill. In my opinion, ethanol in higher (10%) can help pick up water and other oils settled happily in the bottom of the fuel tank and then try to move them through the fine fuel filter which catches them and clogs from the globules. The MAF sensor gets coated from the back burst of oils fumes in the crankcase when the engine is shut off. While running the PCV pulls air from the crankcase and into the incoming air stream in the upper intake manifold. At shutoff those fumes are left just floating and then condense on the MAF, throttle body, and the inside of the upper.

    I didn't think even the quality MAF sensors cost $400. I'll be more careful with mine the next time I spray it and use a camel artists brush to clean it--that's a lot of money. I'm trying to check on price to see if I can learn more.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • remi2remi2 Member Posts: 2
    my car is missing when u first start it then after a while it stops missing and every now and again it misses when u drive it . i took it and had it put on a machine it said miss fire on number 3 cilender . i changed plugs and wires,cole pack,and fuel injecter, could the crank sensor cause that
  • becar3becar3 Member Posts: 3
    Just to let you all know, after the car being in the dealership for 3 days and there inability to have the car stall on them. They kept saying that it was the MAF and I wasn't buying that. For the last week on a fresh tank of gas, no stalls. Hoping that is it for this issue. Thank you all.
  • josh51josh51 Member Posts: 1
    3 months ago my girlfriends 99 bonneville stalled on her when she was making a turn into parking lot she started it right back up n it ran with no problems. last month it stalled on me once it didnt wanna start right away but after sitting 5 min it did n ran fine until a few days ago when she shut it off then went to leave 10 min after shut off n would only run for 2-3 seconds then stall again. its now to the point where it will run just fine until the engine gets to operating temp then will stall. then goes back to the 2-3 second run time i mentioned earlier. if i push gas pedal when it starts warm it will miss and sputter then just stall out and can smell unburned fuel. i know everyone is having relatively the same problems but if someone could give me some positive feedback that would b greatly appriciated thank you very much
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Fuel pressure regulator--check for liquid fuel in the vacuum line to it. Shouldn't be any.

    Fuel pump failure with low pressure at times gives poor mixture affecting running. Some auto parts box stores loan fuel pressure gauges that you connect at the Schraeder valve on the motor on the fuel line.

    Check crankshaft position sensor just under the edge of the harmonic balancer.
    Does not set a code if it's starting to fail. Tap it to see it that effects a start. Splash cold water on it sometimes has been said to fix it when it starts failing.

    Check spark control connections under the coils. Remove each coil and inspect the contacts. Check the connector at the end of the plate for poor contact.

    Try removing the MAF sensor lead and see if it starts and runs better. Might need cleaning on the two little wires. Use a liquid MAF cleaner spray. Do not touch wires.

    Have spark plugs and wires been kept in good condition? They are supposed to go 100K but 80K is a nicer time to get them replaced with factory quality wires and AC plugs.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 92bonny92bonny Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1992 Pontiac Bonneville SE with about 230K miles. The problem started about 1-1/2 yr ago. Initially it would happen on rare occasions, I'd turn the key and nothing just a clicking sound, I'd turn the key again and it would start right up. But for about the past year now it just kept progressively getting worse and worse with each passing day. It takes more than a couple of turns of the key to eventually get it started. Now it takes 20-30 mins of turning the key on and off before it will start, all you hear is the clicking sound of the starter but it wont start. All the lights and guages come on like normal. I took off the starter, alternator and battery (less than 6 months old) and took them to get checked at the auto parts store and they checked out fine. I checked all the connections, cleaned everything and still wont start. The only odd thing, aside from the fact that it wont start, is that on very rare occasions it wont even click and when that happens I notice that the Security light on the guages comes on and stays on even after I take out the key from the ignition. When this has happened I have to wait until the light turns off on it's own and then I'll get the clicking sound of the starter.

    Any ideas what else I could check for?
  • pgfalconpgfalcon Member Posts: 5
    I replaced the plugs and wires about 12k ago...where is the fuel pressure reg..do you know a site I could search so I can see it...Ill try the other things as well....I also have no heat...checked all fuses...dials, etc...does anyone know where the heater core is...and how hard is it going to be to replace it...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    image

    Fuel pressure regulator is silver cylinder on top of fuel rail at right side with one vacuum line going to it.

    How do you know your heater core must be replaced? Leaking?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jmordecaijmordecai Member Posts: 1
    my 1995 bonneville 3.8 starts and dies. I have replaced the cam and crank position sensors. It has fuel and spark. The injectors dont work. I can put fuel in the throttle body and It will run. 125000 miles.
  • joann8joann8 Member Posts: 3
    i change sterring colum and now car starts put only for a few seconds then shuts off,,can anyone tell me what to do
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >i change sterring colum

    What did you do with the keys for the old column? Did you switch the lock cylinder to the replacement column?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • llmmoorellmmoore Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Bonneville that I bought used. I am only getting about 17 or 18 miles per gal. There is a slight shutter in transmission and the engine seems to run good with a very slight miss and idling at about 1000 RPM's. Also today my wife was driving to town and the car died while she was driving down the road. The car had now power no lights no crank. After a little bit car started like nothing happened. Drove a little further and died again same thing no lights no crank. Waited a little bit and it started and has been fine so far. ANY IDEAS would be greatly appreciated
  • krause269krause269 Member Posts: 1
    Car ran great until one day it started overheating so I brought the vehicle into a local repair shop that does free estimates they said it was lower intake gasket and water pump gasket so I went a purchased a complete intake gasket set as well as water pump gasket. After replacing all the gaskets blowing the coolant out of the cylinders and multiple oil changes the car finally started up with a small plume of white smoke eventually dissipating. On the road the car ran rough misfiring in 2 cylinders so I proceeded to check spark replacing spark plugs with some slightly used ones I had. Then noticed corrosion on the spark plug wires so I decided to replace those as well. Problem continued so I headed to the junk yard and picked up 2 ignition coils to replace the two that had been misfiring. Now when I turn the key over it just cranks, There is fuel in the fuel rails and all plugs get white hot spark. To me it seems very strange that I change old parts to new parts and now it wont even start. I have checked the firing order and made sure all wires are firmly snapped in place on the coils. Please anyone who may know what I did wrong help me out.
  • cbleavinscbleavins Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    In the heat of the day my car will runs for about 10 miles and than it will start to sputter and act like it is running out of gas than it will eventually die. I can be driving down the street at a steady speed and than all of a sudden my RPM's will drop all the way down and than it will start slowing down and if I push on the gas it will sputter but it doesn't help anything it just dies. If I let it set for about 5-10 minutes it will run fine for about 5 minutes and than it will start acting up again. Again this only happens in the heat of the day!!! I have replaced the MAF senor, O2 sensor, catilac converter, spark plugs and wire, fuel filter and tested the ignition module all is good. I'm at a lose and honestly don't know what to do. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!! :sick:
  • kyearberkyearber Member Posts: 13
    Hello, I've got a "97 Bonneville SE with a little over 200K miles on it. It ran fine up to this afternoon. I got home shut it off then came out about an hour later and now it will not even crank. I replaced the Bat about 1 and a half months ago (dead cell), and I gave the VATS system a lobotomy last year when I found the ignition was causing an issue with the VATS system. My security light goes out about 10 seconds after turning on the ignition but nothing happens. All the power accessories work and none of the lights get dime when the ignition is engaged. Anyone have a clue what could be happening?
    :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    If you can look down under the front of the motor and hit the solenoid on the starter with something of mass like a plastic hammer it might cause the starter to engage. Have someone hold the key to crank while you do that. A neighbor knows where to hit and uses a metal hammer.

    You might have a battery that has given up the ghost.
    You mmight have a battery cable not making connection, usually at the battery and you'll have to disconnect cables to check for corrosion.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • sca81483sca81483 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Bonneville, runs great, except on the rare occasion that the security light comes on and decides to stay on. It's done it going down the road, pulling into parking spots and when getting in to try go somewhere, and you're just stuck until it goes off...You can reset it by disconnecting the battery, most of the time, not always...any suggestions please let me know!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Is this the VATS light or is it the security system for the body of the car? I believe there's a trunk connection that people disconnect to get the light to go off. And I just read today about a plunger in the hood lock mentioned.

    If it's the VATS system, it should come on when the key is turned to ON and then go off within a few seconds. If it reads the wrong key chip resistance, the security light flashes for 3 minutes. After that it goes off and the TDM is ready to read a new resistance reading from the key. Vehicle Anti Theft System. Theft deterrent module.

    The reasons for wrong chip readings are dirty chip. Clean with pencil eraser.
    Worn contacts inside the key lock cylinder that contact the chip on both sides of the key.
    Breaking wires where the leads from the cylinder go through the steeering column where it flexes and the thin wires eventually start breaking, changing the resistance of the wires and the key.

    The two thin wires are inside an orange outer cover where the leads go along to the bottom of the steering column.

    http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f53/vats-q-14866/

    Search for VATS on google.com

    Theft alarm installers put in a bypass resistor. I read they buy packs of the 15 resistances and have them. Might be worth paying someone just to bypass it even if you don't install an alarm if you don't want to try doing it yourself
    IF that turns out to be what's happening.

    Addon. My security light on my 98 has been going on and off for years. One of the failure modes of the TDM is to decide it has lost its mind and just quit without blocking starting. I think that's what has happened with mine.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • george3386george3386 Member Posts: 1
    Your Ignition module that you had checked is probably bad but it does not break down untill it get hot. I had a similar problem with a oldsmobile ignition module. It checked good also but the car would not run with it in. When I replaced it the car ran fine. Make sure you put the silicone goo under the module because it helps to tranfer the heat
  • jperzajperza Member Posts: 1
    My 99 bonneville has a stalling problem. I will be driving down the road and it just cuts out. The weather conditions dont matter. It doesn't matter the amount of fuel. The common denominator when it does this is no power to the seats and windows. everything else works. It might take 5 min up to a couple hours to restart. I pulled all relays under hood by fuses and it still staarts I ran a ground from engine to fender and still didn't help Anyone have any suggestions.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I'd have to look at a factory service manual and figure out some circuits, but I'd sure be checking the battery for a defective internal contact at the time it happens. A few broken posts have made and broken contact while driving for people.

    Then I'd check the positive battery cables, cutting into the plastic near the ends looking at the integrity of the copper. Some people have reported deterioration due to acid from the battery terminal seeping and running down the cables.

    AND pull the parts of the positive cables apart. Inspect the lead piece between them. Clean them up.

    Does the car crank but now start or is there no crank? Power to the starter?

    I'd have to look at power to the seats and windows. I would think those go to the relay panel on the firewall. Check the positive line feeding there for good connection.

    Depending on those symptoms about whether the car will crank and not start or won't even crank.... try to use logic from there.

    A good set of Helm factory service manuals from Ebay for 1999 probably a 3 volume set would help you a lot right now. If you shop, just be sure to get all the volumes and don't buy a substitute.

    you also might use alldata at your local library to search out the wiring diagrams.

    I do know also that some people have had trouble with the ground busses under the door sill plastic right where it meets the A pillar. They corrode due to moisture. They are wrapped in tape and bundled with the wires going along the sill to the rear. There is one on the passenger side also.

    The power seats and window dropping out made me think of that. On my 93 the AC would default to basic with defrost and AC compressor engaged and the pwoer door locks would not work. I figured out it was the buss on the driver side. It rarely happened and I never got to fix it before we traded the car.

    I do not know if there is any ground there for a car that's running that would cause it to turn off. A check would be to hit that area with your foot to vibrate the wires and cause the corrosion to make contact again.--worth a try.

    But I'm betting on cable trouble at the battery. A few Bonneville people have put on new cables to replace some bad positive cables.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • bigboy11bigboy11 Member Posts: 8
    edited October 2010
    bigboy11, What if you smell unburned gas in between the fuel filter and the tank? Also what or where would I find the A curcit , it says on mine A curcit Mass or Volume Air Flow Inificent?????? 1500$ later, not buying MAF either!!! I clean it and it will run better but after it sit's and then started it runs rough or will stall with a harder shift as it goes along...
  • bigboy11bigboy11 Member Posts: 8
    edited October 2010
    B :confuse: ig boy 11, sorry I forgot to mention my 1999 3.8 non super will stall and start right back up , stalled and started so much I had to change the starter....
  • jacputjacput Member Posts: 2
    I'm curious if you ever solved your problem. My car is doing the exact same thing, but regardless of the temperatur oustide. Mine is a little newer, too (2000). I've had some say it is either the crankshaft or camshaft sensor or the ignition module. :sick:
  • jacputjacput Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get your's fixed?
  • carp210carp210 Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    Having this problem for a year. No codes, mechanic says he does not want to just start changing parts, hit or miss. Car dies at highway speeds but will start back up and run fine for months. Wife afraid she will get rear ended. Also the car stutters then tach drops to zero and stays there but car continues to run fine. When engine is re started tach works fine. Read some where to try the power windows when engine dies to see if they work but not had a chance to try that. Not sure if this is related but twice the car would not start in park but started fine in neutral. How can I narrow it down without just replacing parts. Car only has about 46,00 miles.
  • carp210carp210 Member Posts: 2
    Finally we have it fixed. Died twice with in 10 minutes but started right up. Took it to my local mechanic and he drove it it for a few days (40 miles) and it finally died on him. When it re started he noticed a slight miss which told him the timing was not right. Turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Everything is working fine now and I did not have to waste my money on a hit or miss approach. Nice Christmas present.
  • scotthawkes37scotthawkes37 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 pontiac bonneville that wont turn over at all at first it was makeing a clicking sound once and awile when i tryed to start it but not everytime ... i changed the starter and the battery in it and its still doing the same thing i have no idea what the problem is anyone have any ideas?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Is there a light that comes on if the key transponder does not match the security information? That's one possibility.

    If you can have the car up to get at the positive lead on the solenoid that comes from the ignition to be sure that the ignition is telling the starter to throw the solenoid to engage the full power to the starter that would be the good check.

    Then you would know the problem is in the starter or the power cables to it.

    That would determine that the starter switch is actually making contact to engage the starter as well.

    NExt I'd check the ground cable at the battery that grounds to the floor. Loosen, clean, and retighten to get good connection. Then start checking the connections on the line for the starter--the positive red cables. I'd leave the ground cable off while I was troubleshooting the connections on the positives in case you ground a wrench to the frame while tightening, etc.

    Check the connections on the red positive battery cable at the fuse block in the engine compartment. I assume that's where the most likely poor connection might be.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • godslove4ugodslove4u Member Posts: 3
    Will try your above suggetions. My 96 Bonneville seems to have a mind of its own. At times, it will start just fine. Then, when it feels like it, I get nothing. The lights and gauges work, but the engine acts as if there is no starter. I get nothing. I loosen the positive battery terminal, wiggle the battery cables, tighten the cables, and about the 3rd or 4th time of doing this, the car will start. I never know how many times it will start before I am again stuck. So far the above process has netted a start, but am afraid sometime that won't work anymore.
    Any additional suggestions? Thanks for any input. :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    edited May 2011
    Locate the starter motor by looking under the front exhaust manifold. Then use a heavy wrench or lightly tap it with a hammer. This can verify your starter is the problem if you have someone turn the key to crank when nothing will happen. Then you hit the starter with a hammer to vibrate it and it clicks into connection and the starter turns.

    The random seeming to work when tightening or loosening the cable connection can be the starter motor itself making connection or not.

    Check inside your connectors at the battery to see if the cable is corroded by acid seep down the inside of the plastic covering (cut the plastic with a sharp knife).

    The cables on a 92-99 are different than a 2000-2005+

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dolphinsfan19dolphinsfan19 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Pontiac Bonneville wont even turn over! I replaced the starter and alternator, I also had the battery checked and charged. I turn the key to the "ON" posistion and everything reads good, then I turn to start it and nothing happens...no clicking noise or anything. So I messed around with the relays and the fuses to check them and when I squeeze to "START 1" relay the engine turns over but it wont run. I tried having my wife turn the key and pump the gas while I squeezed that starter realy with some pliers....nothing happened. I talked to a Mechaninc and he said to try and put it in neutural and start it because there is a sensor there or something so I did....nothing happened. Another Mechanic told me to turn the key to the "ON" position for 10 mins so the security codes could reset and then try to turn it on. He said if it doesnt work unhook the battery for 30 mins then try it again....nothing happened! :confuse: :mad: :cry: I still need to check the ignition switch, if its not that then one of the mechanics said I needed to take it to a GM dealer to have my computer reset! Does anyone have an idea or suggestion?
  • godslove4ugodslove4u Member Posts: 3
    Same problem with my 96 Bonneville. Discovered two problems. Replaced battery cables, positive and negative. When we bent them, you could hear the corrosion crackle.

    Second solution was security sensor. Don't where it is located on your 2000, but on my 96, it was located under the carpet near the door on the drivers side. It is about 2" long and narrow., Took cap off and clean diodes. They had picked up moisture from being under the carpet.

    Hope this helps you.
  • david2k11david2k11 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem how do i fix this issue
  • bfaulknerbfaulkner Member Posts: 5
    Here's one for only the imaginative! My '03 Bonneville has an attitude. Every now & then I get in, key the ignition & NOTHING. Turn it back off, turn on 1 notch, wait for the "Security" light to go out and AWAY WE GO!
    Last Saturday she decided to take the rest of the day off after my wife & I came out of a store. Tried all the usual solutions but no dice.
    Came back the following day, gave my wife the key, she gets in and VOILA! Running like a top again.
    The car is the entry level Bonne W/nice options, 3.8 L,120K prox.
    Anyone got an idea????
  • godslove4ugodslove4u Member Posts: 3
    Exact same problem with my 96 Bonneville. I turn the key, wait for the Security light to go out and know it will start. If security light doesn't go out, I know I'm in for a wait. Usually, if I patiently wait a minute or two the light will go out and i can start the car.
    My question becomes, what part of the anti-theft system do I need to replace? On the 96, there is a some type of fuser module on the driver's side by the door, just under the carpet. I have cleaned that, and it seems to work for awhile.
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