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Comments
The car is cranking.
You're not getting what sounds like any firing so you may have a spark problem or a fuel problem.
Have you tried listening for the fuel pump when you first turn the key? It should run for 2-3 seconds and then stop after having built up pressure. This occurs every time you turn the key from off to on.
Checking for spark may require removing a spark plug wire and placing it next to a metal ground and watching for the spark while someone cranks the motor.
If your car is cranking then it's not the theft deterrent part of the system. It reads a resistor in the key, and the theft portion says it has the right resistance reading or doesn't. If it doesn't it allows 3 tries and then turns on the security light flashing and lasts for about 3 minutes before allowing another try.
When you put the key it and turn to "on" the security light should come on for about 10 seconds if you just sit there without turning the key to crank. The light is solid and goes off. That indicates a good reading.
IF THE READING is wrong the car will not crank. The dash lights are all on, but it's like a dead battery as far as the starter and ignition.
You're getting cranking so it's not the theft deterrent. If it is not cranking be very careful because early years had a different theft deterrent setup than a few years later if I understand other posts in another forum. The theft deterrent readings were done by the main computer. Later cars had a separate theft deterrent module.
The two little wires to the key can be cut where they connect into a connector near the base of the steering column and a set of resistors from a Radio Shack type store can be soldered in the line to replace the correct resistance the key should give and the car goes happily on fom there but just no theft deterrence. The little wires break partially or completely up at the top where the column flexes.
The list of resistances is available as VATS system lists on the web. You resistance on the key chip should be close to one of those readings. You do not need to buy a replacement module.
I repeat, you have cranking, therefore your problem is not the theft deterrence module.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Or if your security light isn't indicating a wrong key chip reading, there are problems with batteries they age. Some of the folk here need to use a jumper to a good battery and see if they can start their car. There also can be corrosion on the battery cables at both ends and on both cables. There have bee problems with battery acid leaking around the contacts and the acid wicking down into the cable inside the plastic and deteriorating the cable.
A starter can go back and just make no noise when you turn the key to crank. The check there is to use a voltmeter and see if you're getting current on the starter connection at the starter under the car when someone turns the key. A friend of mine actually used a jumper cable to go from a battery charger that has a surge capability to give jump starts and contacted the starter terminal to check his starter--nothing.
If you've been getting oil dripping under the car from the oil pan seeping slightly over the years, that can get inside the starter and cause problems.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1996 Bonneville...
It all started out with an occasional missing. We then progressed, (or digressed) to an all out cylinder 3 misfire code in the car. Replaced the plugs, same issue. Talked to a buddy at Auto Zone and tested the ignition control module. It was bad, replaced it. Still won't start. Checked the spark on the plug wires at the plugs, all 6 are good. Got another buddy to clear the codes, and still don't have any codes, but the car won't start. Sometimes you can hear it try to fire off two or three times, then is just turns over. The wonderful scent of fuel is present but not too strong.
It has been suggested that I try a crankshaft position sensor, (any insight on this?)
Can this thing be tested without an O-scope?
Is there anything else I should take a look at?
I would REALLY appreciate any help with this thing.
Thanks,
I hope this helps you and will repost to let you know if it did or did not help me.
Ciao
Thanks for your reply. Apparently I am having a slightly different issue than you are. My seat control and windows work fine here. This thing just doesn't want to start. Everything seems fine electrically here, security light goes out like it is supposed to as well. (thought this might be the issue but it doesn't seem to be.)
I really am running out of options. I would agree, with you except for the fact that everything else seems to be fine.
Thanks,
Tulnio
GMCatera
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
note, i can put gas in the throttle body and the car runs while i keep spring gas into it. it will stop running only when i stop sprying... :sick:
I don't know whether it's a sensor? camshaft sensor? PCM control for the injectors? that's at fault. I don't have a service manual for a 1995. If you send an email to my carspace email here I can tell you where you might get help.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT w/3800 V6. Has about 89,000 miles. It seems to always start when it is cold. After it warms up completely, if you turn it off (to go into a store, etc.), and try to start it again, it sometimes will not start (happened about 3 times in the last month). It turns over, but won't start (sounds like it is flooded). It will sometimes eventually start after numerous tries, but will always start when the engine cools completely.
We took it into a decent local shop, but they told me it hasn't thrown any codes. They said it could be the crankshaft sensor, ignition module, or fuel pump. They don't want to just start replacing parts as each repair can be costly with the fuel pump being the most expensive. We were hoping that it would start failing more often, especially when they had it (it always started for them) as they can't really do much as long as it always starts for them. We thought the car problems were consistent (always starts when when cold, sometimes won't start when warm, but will eventually start when engine gets cold), but it threw us a curve the other day when the engine stalled while my wife was turning into our development. Luckily, she was able to coast it a half mile to our driveway. Again, after it cooled, it started.
I have heard that a bad battery or one that will soon fail (or one that is defective) can possibly cause this (the battery in the car is 4 years old), so I might take it to a shop and have them check it and maybe replace it anyway as this would be the cheapest fix that I can do myself.
Has anyone had this problem w/the 3800 V6? Any advice? I'm hoping that if the battery doesn't do it, the car will start failing so the shop can fix the problem.
hello have a big problem with my bonni. it will trun over but will not run. i have change the cam senssor, the crackshaft senssor but a new hamanic balancer, new wire and plugs and it will not run. the only way it rum is if i put starter fuild then it die... i have notice that when i discounnet the battery for a long time the redio won't lock up like it should. maybe a short in the car. please help me. this is my wife only car. :sick: :sick:
Initially it would start after a couple of tries but then once I had to have it towed as it wouldnt start for over an hour. The mechanics are stumped - no codes so far. The fuel pump was extra loud, and after a lot of attempts at diagnosing (1 week), a GM 'specialist' said it was the fuel pump. Got that replaced and guess what - it wasnt.
I have been reading up on this problem for the last two weeks and it could be so many things - right from Cam, crank sensors, the MAF sensor, clogged fuel filter, etc. Compression tests were done - no problems. The sensors as i said did not throw any codes. I've asked him to put some injector cleaner and see if that helps. I tested my battery - it was fine. I tried to jump start it once but that didn't help. (Also, all the lights and the radio come on, battery seems normal)
Again, the problem is that the mechanics cant seem to reproduce the problem. They managed to do it once and detected low fuel pressure (and i replaced the pump, but the problem still occurs). Something is not letting fuel reach the engine. It seems like a minor problem, but diagnosing it is killing me. :sick:
I'll make sure to update this post - hopefully it might be of some help to you.
Its so hard diagnosing a car, i don't know how doctors do it with people, hehe :P
let's keep this form running. i still have a little problem with a fuse. i have a remote control for the car when i bought it. i have notice that the remote control only operate the truck and not the doors. well i check the fuse box that's next to the passenger side where the computer is. i found a bad fuse and change it but the fuse keep blowing up. i know there is a short somewhere. i think this is the remote control for the doors. can anyone help me on trobleshooting this short? again thank you.
Thanks :confuse:
Thanks
The theft deterrent module also sends the signal to the PCM that allows the starter to engage. You are saying that the signal would engage the starter but would not allow the injectors to fire?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I got mine fixed, took me awhile, but it is done. Here is what happened.......
1) Plugs and wires (2 of the wires were BAD)
2) Coil pack circuit card (tested bad on machine)
3) One of the coils was bad
4) (This is a good one) Vehicle on a slight incline, low on fuel.
All four of the above contributed to my issue. I witnessed the testing of the elements and the testing of the new items, (unless the dude was a magician).
Hope this helps someone figure out what is wrong with theirs.
Tulnio
hello everyone, i have a 1995 bonniville 3800 with remote control. it didn't work at first until i replace the relay under the driver seat now the remote only open the driver side door. is there any other relay i should know about. the book only show the relay that's under the driver seat. can the relay be bad? i have change the remote control battery. the trunk open and one door.
also the security lite don't come on when i lock the door. only when i trune the car on...... please help...
I have a 1990 Pontiac Bonneville that is giving all the symptoms mentioned. It runs great but after it gets hot, it stops or will not restart. I give it a few hours and cranks right up like nothing ever happened. No codes on the computer or nothing. It took me awhile to figure out the fact that it could be heat related. But I replaced the fuel pump and filter. Still same problem.
Well I found this article that might explain the reason for this issue. It relates to the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor).
Check it out and see if it helps you:
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint4_2.pdf
I will look into it also and see if it fixes my problem.
IZCRUZ :shades:
When starting the car after it is cold, I have noted that as it warms up, just before the thermostat is going to open, the car runs rough for about 10 to 15 seconds. Most of the time, if you are at speed on the freeway you might not notice it. If you are in a bank teller line, it can stall out. That's what happened to your wife. Her foot was probably not on the gas or she was just starting up. I have had the same failure on three occasions. Every time just as the car was getting to the open thermostat range.
I don't think it is the thermostat. I find the ground association to such precise timing to be unlikely, though I have cleaned my ground and no such luck. I have looked at the sensors on the car. I have had a heat issue with a crank shaft sensor and the sudden and total shutdown of the ignition system is unmistakable. Plus a CSS is timed to the heat up of the oil, not the coolant. Oh, no roughness either, just sudden failure, plain and simple. But the coollant sensor has no control over ignition or gas.
Once I get through the short rough seconds during the warm up, my car will run all day no issue. Again, a ground just would not run that way. It is nice to know that one of us has tried the fuel pump tradeout to no avail.
By the way, I have less trouble in warm weather (when the overall temperature of the car stays higher for a longer time) as opposed to cold weather.
An ignition switch can have a bad contact for the spark system that makes and breaks while the contact for the other indicators like lights works fine. There is a way to test for the switch not making contact during a nostart period.
This switch is at the base of the steering column and is a fairly easy replacement.
People have found a poor contact at the ICS which is under the coils. Check the contacts on the connector plugging in there at the bottom end.
Crankshaft position sensor.
Cam position sensor.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,