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Chevrolet Malibu Maxx Electrical/Lighting Problems
meandmymaxx
Member Posts: 134
Had to replace a tail light this week, and noticed that the socket was dry, no grease of any kind. Every car I have owned as far back as my 1982 Malibu, had grease in the socket to help fight corrosion as far as I could tell. Was wondering if anyone knows if this is just a money savings thing for GM or did they find a problem with grease in the sockets. If not, should I use white lithium as I believe was what was used in the past or would dielectric be better??? Thanks
1
Comments
All hypothetical of course
Is it possible to turn off the function that causes the wipers to wipe several times after spraying washer fluid on the windshield? The problem is in subfreezing temps even high quality deicer fluid will freeze and smear on those final swipes. It makes for a dangerous condition when driving. Thanks for the help.
I live in MI which often has subfreezing temps. Most of the time when it is really messy I find myself using a lot of washer fluid to clear off windshield when driving mainly from salt spray. That does smear but just another washer cycle clears it. Of course I use the defroster in vehicle to put some amount of heat on the windshield - that helps considerably.
In fact manufacturers have considered even putting in a later delayed wipe to catch the dribble that wiper blades missed because it hit off the wiper pattern and falls back into it. That would exacerbate the complaint you have but there other customers who complain about the dribble.
You might have seen a few vehicles with systems that either heat the wiper nozzles or better yet deliever a pre-heated "shot" of washer fluid. Mainly in uplevel vehicles now.
If neither of these issues then you are correct that you likely looking at CHMSL or open circuit on wiring to the CHMSL. Easiest way to distinguish between those would be looking for battery voltage ACROSS the CHMSL connector when brakes applied.
No TSB out there on anything related to CHMSL itself. There is a TSB giving technicians information on a wiring type issue but that would also cause the 2 things I mentioned above.
do you have the TSB number as well...thanks again
do you have the TSB number as well...thanks again
If you replace the CHMSL, be very careful. It was the cause for a water leak into my hatch area on two ocassions. It was leaking from the factory, so the dealer tried to reseat it. That worked for a little bit, but it came back, so the dealer replaced it. Make sure you get the seal set right and don't damage it.
Do you have ability to check for voltage across the CHMSL connector? BTW I liked you using the term CHMSL
pronounced chimzel!
Thanks,
Peter
There is a fuse puller in the IP fuse center which handles the small minifuses if you don't have another tool. There isn't a tool in vehicle for the larger fuses (called a J-Case). Dealers have a larger plastic fuse puller for that style however. I think I posted the part number a LONG time ago.
Maybe someone else can help?
If BLACK then you are looking at cover of the fuse block itself and comments from kurt and myself apply. If you are looking at a trim piece of the same color as rest of interior trim in your vehicle than we haven't addressed that part.
Why does sometimes the tach & fuel gauges reset themselves after starting and then sometimes not?
No.
The Malibu doesn't do that, its a Pontiac thing. I personally don't like it. When I start the car, I want my gauges working NOW!
It is fuse #6 on the label.
For 2004/5 model the fog lamps were #880L bulbs. That is long life version of 880 (lower candlepower)
For the 2006 model fog lamps are now available on more models and the lamp design has changed to an H11 bulb - basically the same bulb as low beam headlamp. Wattage is 60 vs. 30 and the lamp draws over twice as much electrical power. Fusing and wiring were upgraded slightly in 2006 to handle these higher power lamps.
Having said that, be advised that there are a number of electronic gremlins in this car's Driver Info Center (and elsewhere) that mysteriously appear and then disappear. The engine temp gauge reading zero even when the engine is fully warm is one example. Mine did it for a few days over 12000 miles ago and has been perfect ever since.
If you are sure the vehicle was sitting with ignition OFF for over 3 hours and you didn't use remote start to start vehicle then when you get in vehicle you should expect the temperature display to reflect the actual temperature surrounding the sensor.
I think I have reviewed some additional details in earlier posts and would be happy to do it again if you are interested
BTW - this display has nothing to do with the coolant temperature gauge.