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As long as it grades to Mercon-V, you should be fine. Mobile1 will "under-grade" their product to help protect themselves legally, which should be a benefit to you.
Dean.
Since 1993 I am with Ford but now I am having a second thought for my next car.
I wonder if we should forward all these mails to congress which just bailed out the three bigs. They should know that if these companies continue to make these faulty products, they will be out of business. Why Ford does not extend its powertrain warranty to match Haundai instead just 5 years knowing that their Focus has a known ill designed transmission.
I have had the same problem/experience with my 2003 Focus. I have check the codes at autozone and they are right on as to what you have posted. Next I have ordered the part from Ford and will get it on Monday. I am getting ready to do this procedure, so is there any tips/suggestions to make this go easier? It seems very easy/straight forward. I am not a mechanic but a little ability. Again, any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
It seems as if we are on parallel lines here.
Our 2003 Focus 99K has been possessed by the tranny-gremlins.
I did a reverse flush to the trans system on Tuesday, and while it shifted better, the neutral-gear appearances are still there.
After taking it to AutoZone, it threw out the "0750" solenoid A code again so I went to Ford and spent the $48/with tax on the new solenoid.
I picked up a "AA" solenoid yesterday and installed it last night.
You will need in addition to the solenoid:
1. Oil drain pan. To catch the fluid you will pull.
2. A 5/16 socket. I used my work cordless driver-drill with a small extension-adapter. Makes super-fast work of the many bolts holding on the pan. Use a regular socket wrench if necessary.
3. A new trans filter kit.
4. A small amount of oil resistant sealer silicone.
5. 3 quarts of new trans fluid, for just dropping the pan fluid.
6. A 1-2" scraper for getting the old silicone off the pan.
7. A roll of paper towels & or clean rags.
It took more time to put the 3 qts of fluid back in the tranny than it did to change the solenoid. Does anyone else have the same fluid filling issues??
You should put a new filter in as well. The filter at A-Z is $20 and pick up 3 quarts of new fluid too, this is how much I had to replace when I did it. The new filter comes with a nice rubber gasket to help the fluid sealing.
The toughest part of getting the job done is the removal of the pan.
The factory used a grey silicone and it is pretty hard to break the seal. You need to be careful here because of the aluminum case is easily scored into, and that may lead to a future leak if you are not careful. See below.
How to:
1. Jack and double secure the drivers side front to allow enough working room. Care here is mandatory!!
2. Remove all of the trans bolts from the pan EXCEPT for 4 bolts at the corners.
3. Put the oil-catch pan under the corner you desire.
4. Back out the bolt, at the corner that you want to drain to, about 75%.
5. Back out the bolt at the opposite corner about 2 turns only.
6. Back out the 2 other bolts about 1/2 way.
7. Leaving the 4 bolts in use a pry-bar or large screwdriver to pry down the pan. It is usually quite stuck on, so you may need patience and maybe a tap or two with a hammer as well.
8. Once you have started to break the seal, the fluid will be draining, work your way around the pan until it rests on the partially backed out bolts, and give the fluid a minute to run.
9. Remove the lowest corner bolt 1st, then back out the remaining 3 bolts draining the fluid carefully into your pan. Be careful not to let the weight of the pan hang on the last bolt or you may bend the lip of the pan.
10. Remove the pan and take to cleaning area. The bottom of the pan will be full of fine particulate from the trans, most of it like a metal-based paste that adheres to the bottom of the pan especially around the magnet area. This car has a whopper magnet that works nicely. Large chucks of shiny metal are not common but a couple are usually found.
11. Pop out the magnet and wipe it clean (no chemicals) along with the entire inside of the pan. Do a good job here.
12. Scrape off most all of the old silicone off the pan using your scraper.
13. When the pan is clean and dry, put a thin even coat of silicone on the top edge of the pan, being careful not to get silicone on the inside edge of the pan.
14. Align the new gasket to the hole pattern and place the gasket on the pan. Warming the gasket a bit in the house may help here.
15. Put a thin coat of the silicone on the top side of the gasket with same care.
16. Scrape transmission gasket contact surface as you did the pan. If you find you may have scored the surface when removing the pan, sand it smooth before replacing the pan.
17. Remove the old filter by 1st pulling the (fluid level sensor??) the thing with the wire attached. It comes straight down and is held in by a plastic pin. I did not replace this as mine looked fine to reuse.
18. Remove the old filter by wiggling straight down, It is held in with an O-Ring and pops right out.
19. Install is true reverse of process.
20. Remove the "A" Solenoid. It is the one with the white wire and located on the passenger side of the trans and is the middle of the three on that side.
21. Slide off the wire clip, it just pulls straight back.
22. Unbolt the retainer using the same 5/16" socket and wiggle out the old solenoid.
23. Install the new solenoid is reverse.
24. Carefully hold the pan up to the bolt pattern on the trans and finger start at least 3 bolts across the trans. While holding the pan in place lightly run up the 3 bolts just to keep the pan from shifting, and gasket from resetting.
25. Make sure all of the holes line up and finger start all the remaining bolts.
26. Working around the pan, lightly tighten all of the bolts and circle the pan tightening a bit more as you work around until you reach proper tightness(3-4 times around should do). I don't use a torque wrench personally, I make the bolts pretty tight.
27. Lower car and install 3 qts new fluid with car running in park.
You just saved at least $300!!!
Make a point of doing the filter at least every 30K.
Now take a shower and put another notch in that belt!!!
GL
Dno
Thanks for your response. I did the procedure today (Friday), the only difference is that I didnt replace the trans filter. I probably would have done it if I had seen this part listed in the original post. I got all my stuff together during the week and did it today on my day off.
The results: I had the code/light cleared at autozone but the problem persists. It still is reluctant to shift up and does so when I accellerate slowly. The exclamation light is still on which indicates some transmission/transaxle issues.
I wonder if the change of the filter is the problem or it could be a sensor or something else.
I feel good about the repair, just wish it had solved the problem I will probably change the filter on my next day off just to cover all bases.
Any thoughts anyone?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry to hear your issue still exists.
Yes I would definitely do a new filter. $20 is good insurance, and even before we changed the solenoid the trans shifted better.
Did you take it and get it scanned?? If so did it throw a code 0750 back?? 0750 is for the "A" solenoid.
If it did not throw the 0750 code, which one did it show??
Ours is fine now. The engine light actually went off without resetting it with a OBD2 reader/tool.
Thanks for the great information in post #76. I have a 2003 focus with fault code P0750 "A" solenoid. The car runs from a stop okay, then when it gets to 30 or 35 and the tac goes up with no power.
A transmission shop doesn't think it's the solenoid and is quoting BIG $$$$ to remove the transmission and inspect. I'm thinking I'll try the procedure and see what happens. It's worth the $80 in parts and fluid. And if it fixes it great.
Does any one have a picture or illustration of the transmission from the bottom with the pan off showing the filter and then with the filter off showing the solenoid?
Thanks again, I plan to do the work tomorrow.
Brian
This code also indicates a circuit fault, not necessarily a solenoid. Could be wiring, too or a PCM fault.
I think there is a resistance test one can do for the solenoid.
If you want to tackle this on your own, you should probably subscribe to www.alldatadiy.com. I think it's about $27 for a whole year, for one car. pretty good resource but you have to be technically minded.
I was reviewing some of the other posts and it seems that the procedure helped others with code P0750 tripped with the same symptoms. It just seems like the shop is giving me the run around and they want to jump right to transmission removal for big money.
Any other comments would be appreciated.
Brian
Maybe I missed the post, but did you have your trans scanned before you started??
If so, what codes did it show then??
If it only came back with a 0750 code, then I would have no idea why you would be chasing other codes unless you have a PCM issue.
GL
DNO
Hey smokifl:
I do not have a pic or illustration of the solenoid, however it is super-easy!!
When you pull down the filter, there will be 3 solenoids facing to the passenger side of the car, the middle one will have a white wire going to it. This is the "A" solenoid.
When you do it, you will say to yourself, "Wow, couldn't miss that one".
It removes with a 5/16 hex socket and pulls straight out.
Extra simple.
GL
DNO.
It looks like you had the P0750 code in your post #110 and I'm glad it worked well for you. What were your symptoms? I picked up the car today from the shop to bring it home and it seems to go into 1st and 2nd then it revs and drops out and loses power. I can still use reverse.
Your #110 post is very helpful along with post #76. It looks like there are mainly success stories so I'm hoping for the best. I went and got the solenoid, filter, gasket and fluid and will attack it in the morning. I'll also verify the connector mates. I have my fingers crossed big time!!!!
Thanks again
smokifl
Yes we had intermittent "Neutral Kick-In" at between 32 & 38 mph. Could never predict it, and was scary especially merging into traffic in suburban Chicago.
I thought the reverse clean-run would help, but, while it helped, it seemed that the solenoid was "gone", and in need of replacement. I never lost reverse.
Best of Luck,
Dean.
Thanks again for the information on this site, it saved me big $$$$.
Here's the story:
The car was 4 hours away with my daughter at college so I had her bring the car to the big name transmission shop in town that starts with 2 As. The guy calls me back 2 days later with the bad news that he will have to drop the transmission for them to inspect and just that will be $350. I ask him about the solenoid and he says that's not the problem and it won't fix it for code P0750. I tell him not to do anything and my daughter will be back to pick up the car. I took the day off made the 4 hour ride, did the work and drove back the same day. Granted the ride home was a little easier with the transmission fixed. Parts, gas and lunch with the daughter & friends $150. A lot better then the $700 to $2000 they said it could be. Here I am just some yahoo searching the internet for the same problem and I find the answer. Thank goodness they were slammed ripping other people off which gave me time to research the problem and I found this web-site.
Amazing!!!
Thanks again.
smokifl
I will change the filter and report back, however after the procedure I had the codes checked again and now it is not showing any codes at all. It is still very slow to shift out of first and not wanting to shift up past 3rd (?). Should I change the fluid? I used (as suggested) the same fluid that came out.
I will report back after the filter change. This may give someone a clue to their problem if the have similar experiences.
What's the point... trying to save $15 in fluid?? Not trusting you bought the right fluid??
Not trusting the manufacturer put the right fluid in the bottle??
How much microscopic metallic material, and residue is in the fluid that is not caught by the filter. The old fluid looks dirty, because it is, just like your old dishwater.
While the 3ish quarts you drop in a filter change is only a bit less than 1/2 the fluid, why go on the cheap here?? It is your choice.
GL
Dean.
Thanks for all your help here!! Much appreciated!!
The "open" could be caused from a "loose" internal connection within the solenoid as well, correct. Maybe our Blue-Oval buddies got a deal on a few million AA's that have a higher-than-normal internal connection failure that doesn't short out to throw the 0750 code with loss of reverse, just the 4th gear neutral thing .
Just an idea
Dean.
Dave
Thanks,
Dave :sick:
I do believe the "0750" code is a generic one according to the OBD2 web site. Here is the "official" list of the P075x codes I got from check-engine-light.com...:
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent
Being this is a generic code, as all of the codes that start with P0xxx are, I would think the "A" solenoid would be the proper call here. You may want to hunt some more around the web...
Good Luck
Dean.
crossrunner ford motor employee
I too followed all the steps for post #76 & #110.
Just like you it solved my issue for dropping out of 3rd.
I've even driven it 30-40 miles as suggested by auto zone and the Car Manual.
But still no reverse!!
Does anyone know why this might be happening???
If so, what were the exact readings??
If there is no reverse, I would tend to think there would be an external connection issue possibility.
With most of the "A" solenoid issues you find here, most of us did not lose reverse, we just had the "kick into neutral" thing.
Make sure the wire that goes to the "A" clip, and the clip itself are in good order. Other than that you may have to dig deeper or may have a bigger issue.
GL
Dean.
My error code was the same as everyone elses P0705.
The sysmptoms were identical to everyone elses, the neutral slipping-gear thing...
Following the procedure from Post #110 fixed the problem perfectly and Car is now driving excellently.
We were not even aware of the reverse issue until right before we started working on the car.
Now as I shift the car into reverse Ifeel the Reverse Gear engaging but when we accelerate it drops into neutral just like it used to do in Drive at 32 mph before we replaced the solenoid.
Since the repair, the Engine Light has turned off. Autozone claims that they cannot scan the Car if the engin light is not on.
The only thing I can think of is perhaps we need more Trasaxle fluid??
I have about 4 qts in there now, but Autozone says a full refill is 7 qts.
What do you guys think???
2. How do you know how much fluid is in the car??
3. I believe 7 qts is total capacity of the transmission, not a "refill" amount. Be very careful with adding fluid, do it slowly and keep checking the level as you add.
4. My Autozone here in IL, will plug in their scanner and give me a history reading as well, even if the "light" is not on. Maybe yours will too.
It does sound as if you may have a fluid level issue from your symptoms stated.
Check and be careful.
GL
Dean.
I have an extended warrantee. I wonder if it is better to just let it fail then to start in with maintenance that is not needed ? :confuse:
D.
My comment was not referencing any particular post but rather this last string of posts regarding diagnosing Transmission Failure. I know there are lots of points of view out there and even some old wives tales, ie., changing transmission fluid will cause more problems, and so forth.
When I refer to a base-line diagnostic in the post, it is analygous to getting base lines as we get medical check-ups- all of these Diagnostics can sometimes result in recommendations for unnecessary medical procedures.
When my 5 year Factory warrenty expired, I chose to keep the car and purchased an extension from the dealer, That is why perhaps, I have the luxury of being able to say "just let it fail completely."
markus
We took it to a Ford dealership (they had to replace the overfill tank too) with the check engine light on. They got two codes P0720 AND P0722. Told us we could replace the "output shaft speed sensor" or replace the transmission. They told us when they pulled the pin they found metal debris in the transmission. After being quoted to replace the transmission at .... $3900 we decided to take it elsewhere. Why would we put a new transmission in an 03 Ford?
The new place we took it to FINALLY got the car to kick and see the problem. Now they are saying there is an internal transmission problem and an external electrical problem. Its been almost two weeks and no answers and nothing fixed. Plus this place is soooo NOT great at calling us back and I have no where else to turn.
I have been reading this site for the past two weeks and I am hoping someone can provide some input.
Just my 2-cents here.
Pretty good description on the symptoms here, that helps a bunch!
1. Almost anytime you open a transmission that has been driven awhile, and I would consider 68K miles awhile, you will find metal of some sort in the "pan"(I am assuming that's what you meant). Do not let that scare you.
2. If it were me, with the trouble light going on-and-off, I would look to some kind of loose connection along the output sensor system.
3. As far as the 1st transmission shop..$3,900.00........did that include the fully functioning car that it came out of?? There is not a maximum profit law that I know of, so a shop can charge about anything they feel, or, maybe they just can't do it efficiently, and need to charge accordingly.
4. 2nd trans shop, external electrical sounds about right, and maybe the internal as well. If it were me, I would see how much the external electrical issue would cost to fix, maybe fix that 1st, and go from there. That may be the sole irritant to the trans operation. Even if not, it seems to be the most cost efficient way to go.
GL
D.
Thanks
This is an electronically controlled transmission and you'll have to have the codes read to figure out what has failed. I don't think it is the OD switch itself.
D.
If it's OK, then get the computer scanned free at one of your local major auto parts dealers.
GL
Dean.
Was wondering if EVERYONE with the slip problems has the check engine light accompanying their troubles.
I'll have computer scanned tomorrow..
Thanks, I'll post with results soon as I get them.