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Comments
It is not very good business for a Service Mgr to tell a customer to "sell their car quick". Maybe that is one FORD's big problems. Poor customer relations via the service dept..
If they took your $$ and did not fix anything, the normal route is for the dealer to tell you something else is wrong as well in addition to what they "fixed". This would give them a rational solution and give them a chance to get more of your $$.
You should take your car in to get scanned at a local major parts store. This is a free service and it will usually indicate where to start.
What was the car doing before you brought it in??
DNO.
A couple weeks ago, the transmission acted up. Shifted rough, and didn't feel like it was getting out of second. The O/D OFF light started flashing. Took it to a reputable garage who said tranny was shot.. I gulped and put down 3K for a new Jarvis transmission.
It ran great for about three days. Then it started shifting rough again. Check Engine light came on and the O/D light flashed again. Went back to the garage and they ran the diagnostic codes. Two things came up. One was a possible bad ground in a tail light that will cause the tranny to malfunction. The other was a heat sensor in the transmission that would do the same thing if bad. The garage narrowed it down to the sensor and replaced it (it was under the Jarvis warranty).
I picked the car up this morning and drove it today with no problem. Tonight? Same thing again. Rough shifts, O/D light is flashing. So, I'm taking it back in the AM. I wonder if the electric problems - which were never really explained - aren't related to the same source as this problem. If there is a bad ground in the tail light, could it have caused all these issues? Anyone have an experience/opinion???
Almost right out the door, my trunk refused to latch shut, so I had to give it up for a few days so they could replace the latch. After that, it was smooth sailing until winter, when my power steering pump burned out. I've driven without steering before, so I learned to live without it so I wouldn't have to pay for a new pump.
Then my transmission started messing up. Thankfully it was still under warranty so I took it in and they replaced some stuff dealing with the overdrive (which was the main problem), at no cost to me. This was at about 53,000 miles.
Less than a month later, my overdrive light on my cluster came on and my overdrive shut off. I went back to the dealership and had them take a look at it (this time I was at 56,000 miles). They told me nothing was wrong, and sent me on my way.
Two months later and with an expired warranty, my transmission started slipping. Within a week, my car was struggling to get uphill. I made an appointment with the manager at the dealership to discuss my problem.
I told the manager that this issue was so severe that my transmission was most likely failing when they first looked at it, and how they missed it was beyond me when they had my transmission lying in pieces in their shop. He told me essentially there was nothing he could do since I *poorly* maintained my car (mind you, it was beyond my control). Words were exchanged and now my car is sitting in the shop, and thousands of dollars are about to go out the door.
Has anyone had this kind of experience with their transmission failing?
Call around to major auto parts stores and find who offers this service free-of-charge.
DNO
My car works fine!! And it cost me 100.00 dollars not thousands!
Thank you soo much!
To add insult to injury, even though I spoke to my dealer at least a dozen times....they NEVER told me I had an extended warranty until the DAY after it ended, the end of last month. I have NO paperwork that shows I had bought an extended warranty..not even the original contract. They just didn't want to pay for the repair...I was also told there are NO issues with Focus transmissions, I told them they need to go ON LINE and view the Focus chat rooms..it might enlighten them. If you do not have ANY warranty with ford, I highly recommend you taking it elsewhere, that way you know you won't be screwed. :mad:
Any advise on the reverse gear?
If the computer is telling you solenoid "E", then only replace "E".
As far as inspecting the solenoids.... I don't know what you would be looking for or at but it shouldn't hurt anything. Just make sure the wires are on.
I cannot remember as to how the solenoids are labeled, but I will do a search here if I can stay awake. The "A" has the white wire, thats all I know now, not much help I guess.
Good
Luck
Dean.
Please help.Do I need to change the whole transmission or only some parts of the of solenoid?...I'm here in Qatar and we have very expensive spare parts here from the Ford Dealer.
Thanks a lot. :confuse:
Refer to prev posts for scanning help.
Post back with found codes if needed.
A scanner costs under $100 US on E-Bay.
D.
Any suggestions?
Have you checked the fluid level when hot??
Does the car have the original trans?? Dealer probably won't help at all. Try anyway.
How about going around a sharp curve, does the trans want to slip then??
Find a parking lot and do a few low speed sharp turns each way and see what it does.
D.
DON'T BUY A FORD FOCUS UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO GET RID OF IT BEFORE 100K MILES!!!!!!!!!!
As far as the symptoms go.....eeek.
The deal proposed by the dealer is a fair one if all the details are correct.
It will probably cost him $100-$200 for the used trans, and then labor for install.
A 2-year warranty in writing would be a better-than-normal addition if the warranty is on paper and reputable. Check the warranty details 2x.
GL
Dean.
Has anyone ran into this before? I am planning on getting the transmission fluid flushed and changed but I don't know how long that will be.
D.
Vitrually no electronics in a manual vs. lots in the automatic.
Sounds like a clutch issue to me.
I am not familiar with Focus Clutches, however I would think either:
1. Worn or shined clutch or pressure plate.
2. Clutch out of adjustment, either cable or linkage.
Don't let a shop tell you there are no adjustments, just check them.
BTW - Get the engine scanned just for safes sake and post back.
GL
D.
On my '02 I know the "A" is middle passenger side, and that's all I know.
Search posts for solenoid diagrams and you should be OK.
Also check a couple online site for the diagram as well. Can't remember where I found it, if I do I'll post back.
GL
D.
Just take it to a major parts house and they will do it for FREE!!!
Then post back what codes, if any, they tell you are on your cars computer.
(o;
D.
I've read most of the posts, some great advice here. I have an issue I have seen brought up a time or two but not seen a resolution anywhere. It's an '04 wagon SE 2.0 with dual overhead, auto tranny. I have always performed all service myself, in a timely manner. The car has almost 120K on it, still get 25 to 30 MPG, a mix of highway and city miles. I have no slip or drop in the tranny, only rough shift ever was when tranny due for servicing. When the car is cranked cold, the colder the ambient air temp the worse the symptom, the car has a heavy vibration almost sounding like a grinding or rumble it is so distinct. No error lights ever, no codes either. I will call it a vibration as it is felt very much, intensifies in reverse, almost disappears in neutral, and is less in drive. It has been going on for about 3000 miles, overall symptoms lessened when I did a fluid and filter change 10, 000 miles early. The vibration lessened for a few days, then has returned on a more sporadic basis. When you go over a speedbump while engine is not very warm, the vibration turns into a harsh impulse type groan/grind. All vibration/noise disappears at highway speeds or after 20 - 30 minutes of driving. They seem to be staying around longer though here of late. I have cleaned the mass airflow sensor, checked pulleys, belts....argh.
External electric issue is something I have thought about. Since the car hit appro 85K - 90K there has been an issue with the instrument control panel. The speedometer, temp gauge, and fuel level gauges work sporadically; sometimes twitching erradically or sticking in the topped out position. All the 'idiot' lights work fine. I have tested and replaced fuses, relays, sending units and gauges to no benefit. Car also has the craziest habit of blowing the left rear tail light....a lot....
Any input is greatly appreciated...hell, if your advice works and you're in the ATL area I'll buy ya a beer!