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Comments
The 2009 Mariner has had numerous transmission problems. It been reprogrammed twice.
It's had numerous leaks. The driver's side short shaft and/or seal has been replaced twice. The transmission filler tube has been replaced. The car has now been at the dealership for three weeks waiting for all of the parts necessary to replace the transmission case. Apparently the transmission case has a machining defect in it which creates pressure inside the transmission forcing the transmission fluid to find away to escape, and therefore another leak. Ford's position on this is that this does not justify replacing the transmission with a new one. Their contention is that there is nothing wrong with the internal gears of the transmission. The dealership is going to take all of the parts out of the existing transmission and put them into a new casing. (I would think that if they were to add up all of the costs involved in doing this, there would be little or no savings compared to replacing the transmission with a new one.)
I have a close friend who has the latest version of the Fusion. He has had programming issues with his transmission that the dealer can not seem to fully correct.
I mention all of this because both my Mariner and my friend's Fusion have versions of Ford's new 6 speed automatic transmission. The Focus has a new 6 speed automatic. It may not be the same design as the trannies in the Fusion and the Mariner, but it is a new Ford automatic. I've read some reviews that state that the new Focus 6 speed automatic has some programming issues.
It certainly seems as if Ford has not gotten all of the bugs out of their newly designed automatics.
I would like to get some feedback from owners of the 2012 Focus. Are you having any tranny problems? As nice as the new Focus may be, I don't want to get another Ford and have to live through again what it's been like with my Mariner.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
ford agent they know how to take your money but they dont know how to repair
any how i have ford focus 2006 modle , once i start the car some times i'm getting the follwing error
acceleration reduced ,then i need to stp the car and restart again
after one week i started getting new error acceleration reduce and engine system fult , and transmission malfunction
with this error the dash board heat is not ameter is not working with rpm meter
abs ,light battery light and most of the light are flashing
the ac is not cooling with this error and you will find the gear hard to change
once i stop and restart the car every things start working fine
any how i checked the car out side agent they informed me speed sensor
after i changed it the same problem again
then they informed me gear lever ( gear cable)
i chsnged it but also the same
latly i went to the agent of ford after two days of dignosis they gave me very long report
they told me dash board must be changed
thettle body must be chasnged
tp sensor
oss sensor
sensor assy
.....
the total around 2000$
once i changed these parts they agent will be clear about the error of transmission malfunction
any body can advise me
wgat to do
mohammedmou@gmail.com is my email
two advises for ford lovers
dont buy ford at all go to japan cars
in case you made the wrong choice and you bought one never don't send your car to the ford agent after the three years warranty or 6000 km warranty
good luck
http://media.photobucket.com/image/focus%20transmission%20solenoids/danskool/sol- enoid.jpg
here's a diagram above, if its not shifting into 4 or 5 replace A and B solenoids or just replace them all, they sell a kit on ebay for all of them its $140
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4F27E-TRANSMISSION-SOLENOID-KIT-99UP-FOCUS-OEM-/3- 20710732177?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aabd96991
I ended up just replacing all of them to avoid the hassle later, the only real precautions you have to take it to be careful disconnecting the wires from the solenoids as to not break them. Too make sure you know exactly how much fluid you took out, save the fluid you took out and pour it in to 1 quart bottles and count how many and add only that amount back, transmissions are very picky and you must not overfill it. Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions. The torque for the bolt on the pan is about 16ft pounds tightening in a STAR pattern.
The steps to change them would be.
Put car on ramps, remove tranny pan, drain fluid, change solenoids, replace filter (while I can) put pan back, pour old fluid back in.
Now the O/D light is flashing!?! Help!!
Also Solenoids A/B are the ones with the green tabs on them when you pop the pan off. The longer you drive it without replacing them, the more you will wear down bands causing it to slip every now and then even after replacement of the solenoids.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4F27E-TRANSMISSION-SOLENOID-KIT-99UP-FORD-FOCUS-/3207107- - 32186?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aabd9699a
Exact guy I bought mine from, took me 2 hours including replacement of the filter and fluid.
Also just an add, I had no codes when it happened to me, started out slipping and then the O/D started flashing.
-And if anyone is interested whats happening is the solenoid is not opening completely which isn't allowing enough fluid to travel through the valve body to the clutch packs and servos, automatic transmissions work off hydraulic pressure to mechanical force, the pressure from the fluid locks up either a clutch pack(metal plates against a friction disk) or forces a servo against band which gives you gear reduction, direct drive or overdrive. Just and FYI that might help when going to a tranny shop.
Next buy the fluid and filter from any auto parts place, it will come with the gasket.
1-Drop the tranny pan, its on the drivers side under the vehicle
2-once the pan is down you will notice all the solenoids, the 2 green ones are the same along with the black ones on the opposite side, so you can't screw it up. The black one next to the 2 green is the pressure control solenoid, just unscrew and un-clip each solenoid replacing it as you go, the 3 solenoids on the drivers side that are the same, there is a bracket that holds them in place, remove and replace all of them one by one.
3-replace the filter, remove the temp sensor attached to it, replace the filter and re-attached the temp sensor-sounds hard but it's self explanatory.
4-replace the pan and blots with the new gasket(you can use gasket maker as an alternative), torquing them down to 75 inch pounds, if you don't have a torque wrench just tighten them in a star pattern to what you feel is snug.
5-Replace the fluid you drained, about 4 quarts, to measure the fluid you took out, take pan you used to drain into and fill a quart bottle as many times as necessary to find out how much you took out. DO NOT OVERFILL.
6-start the vehicle, with you foot on the brake, go through each gear, 1-2-3-D-R-N twice. Once done, wait 5 minutes(has to be warm) and check the fluid using the dipstick, check both sides of the dipstick, the side that is lower is correct. Fill until it is between the lines. Again do not overfill, its better to under-fill a little and top it off after each check.
7-Test drive and recheck fluid level
Note-here is a diagram of the solenoids http://media.photobucket.com/image/ford%20focus%20solenoids/danskool/solenoid.jp- - - g
-Also the reason I say below 100k miles is after that, the friction material on the clutch disks and bands will begin to wear down and need to be replaced which is a whole different animal, it involves disassembling the transmission(basically a rebuild), a bit sick of people getting screwed over by shops who don't know how to fix these simple problems, you would be amazed at how many shops don't actually know how an automatic transmission works, they just throw parts at it.
-If after you change all the solenoids and it works but still does a minor slip every once in a blue moon, this is because the bands have slipped so much it's wore some of the friction material off, this will happen every now and then until the transmission is rebuilt but it will get you from a to b for a good 50k miles, if it doesn't your good.
Since the car reached about 9000kms, I've been having trouble with the transmission - or, perhaps not! I can be driving quite sedately, in a straight line even, when suddenly the "Transmission Malfunction" warning alarm comes onto my odometer screen, and the DSC warning light illuminates on the dash. The funny thing is, that despite all the bells and alarms, the car just keeps on driving normally! No "limp home" mode, no problems with gear changes - nothing. Once I've turned the engine off, the whole lot resets and when I start up again it's like nothing ever happened.
I've had it into the dealership THREE times now and they haven't been able to fix it. After the second visit, the car went wild, to the point where the transmission malfunction would re-alarm if someone got out of the passenger side and firmly closed the door - but still no issues with it's driveability! So, back it went and they changed a switch, and checked all the earthing wires, but low and behold, two days later the fault reappeared.
Today I just happened to be driving past a Ford Dealership when the Christmas tree lit up, and this time both the DSC and Engine Warning lights lit up on the dash, the latter of which is now on permanently (as happened also after the second dealership visit). Without turning off the engine, I asked them to download the codes for me and these are what they got:
P0700 - 63 - PCM
P0705 - FF - TCM
P1702 - FF - TCM
U2023 - AD(?) - AB (J or 5 or S, I can't quite read it)?
I had to pick up my daughter and the Transmission Malfunction alarm went off on my way and then again when she closed to boot after putting in her schoolbag and once more when she closed the rear passenger door after getting in the car. It sounds like an electrical fault, but they say they've checked the wiring, clearly to no avail.
The only other thing that I can find is the possibility that there is a battery problem which causes the transmission to reset. But would that throw the codes above?
Has anyone had this kind of problem or provide some hints as to how to fix it???
Thanks!
Why did you swap ALL solenoids??
"L" being open could be external electrical also...wire or connection.
GL
Dean
"Go to O'Riely's or NAPA, their stuff is good, NEVER buy a Autozone or Advance Transmission filter as they sometimes have a cardboard like dust substance that can plug up orifices or cause other issues "
He is not the First to warn me about buying tranny filters from those guys.
For the cost of repairing a transmission, I suggest paying a couple dollars more and get em from the two I mentioned, OR get em at the dealer.
DrVette
Note the vibration or lack of in the wheel..
Drive MORE than two or three to be sure to get a general consensus.
If YOURS shakes, AND the others Don't, you have a few options.
1. approach the Head" service writer with your issue, then the Dealership Mgr then Owner if No Joy is found.
2-a
Ford Website and other phone numbers
http://customerservicenumbers.com/co-ford
2.b
1-800-392-3673
Press 0;
at prompt press 0;
at prompt press 0;
at prompt press 1;
at prompt press 0.
3.
Last Option, check your state's Lemon Law and pursue that avenue.
DrVette
You didn't say if it's an AT or Stick.
As I "understand" the 6sp Auto is actually a Dual-Clutch Manual Transmission that is electronically controlled.
This may be for the "Festiva" only and not the Focus, I dunno for sure
I'm waiting until the spring.Maybe Mazda will do something with their Sky Active.
I mean 25 to 26 K for a Focus makes a cruise look tempting.
Vibration and hesitation as you described also transmission grinds(rattles) sometimes when you let off the gas and apply the gas between gears shifting.
The dealer keeps resetting and updating computer software that controls the transmission. NOT WORKING. Last time around they are saying well that is just how it works. OMG now they want me to accept a sub par performance and forget about it. Frustrated.
December the 20th, 2011
To whom it may concern:
I bought a Ford Focus SEL 2012, in a local Ford “CarOne” dealer. The sales person that sold the car to me said that I was buying one of the best cars in the market, with extraordinary new technology and that it is unique in the world.
With that on mind I had to arrange all the documents necessary to make this happen and be one of the first costumers to buy the all new Ford Focus 2012.
On the 30th of May, I received by email the invoice and on the 6th of June my new car arrived to the dealer and I picked it up. At first I was very happy until all problems started to appear.
I had to take the car back to the dealer because something was wrong with the computer inside, the touch screen it was continuously resetting and a black screen appeared saying “it was performing an scheduled system maintenance”. The person from the dealer’s workshop told me that it was nothing to worry about and it was a matter of programming the computer again. After that, apparently the touch screen was working fine.
Again on July, I had to take the unit back because I felt something was working wrong with the unit’s transmission, the shifts were not working right, I don’t know exactly how to explain this, but the transmission was bumping, hitting within itself. I immediately took the car back to the dealer’s workshop and they told me that what the car needed was an additional computer-programming process and the car stayed for two days. Another failure in this “new” unit is that as of today the pilot door and the door behind are misaligned in relation to the rest of unit’s body. I also have asked to fix this problem but nothing has happened.
After that, I took out the car from the workshop and at first it did feel different but the truth came up a few days later showing the same symptoms. So I did take it back again to the dealer’s workshop. By August, I had taken my Ford Focus four times back to the workshop because the computer and the transmission problems continued to appear.
This time, he told me again that the problem was neither in the transmission nor in the motor; he said that everything was about programming the computer again. So this time he asked me to drive another unit to try it and see how this unit was working so he can copy the programming and put it into my Ford Focus 2012 unit´s computer. We did the test with a Ford Focus 2012 SEL PLUS, and this unit worked fine. He copied the program and pasted it into the memory of my Ford Focus 2012.
Again, I took it out from the workshop but I had to take it back because something was wrong with the touch screen, the volume was going up and down with no reason. This time I talked with the Ford Dealer’s General Manager to let her know all the problems this unit was having and that I was not happy with the quality of this Ford Focus SEL 2012.
A few days later, by mid September the same bumping and hitting was still feeling in the transmission, this was the sixth time I took back the unit to the workshop and after 2 days of the unit being there, they called me and told me that one of the reasons of the bumping and hitting it was because a motor mount was damaged. He asked for the piece to Mexico City and 2 days later it arrived to the dealer’s workshop. They changed it and once again, for a few days, the car was feeling somewhat better, but not completely. In time, it started to feel like it was losing power between shifts, it felt like I was driving a manual shift transmission instead of an automatic transmission.
Once again the bumping and hitting within the transmission began to reappear, and again last Friday, December the 16th the unit was taken to the dealer’s workshop. And again, they told me this time it was only a matter of programming. He also told me that he had a software update and that he will be installing it into the Ford Focus SEL 2012’s computer. He also said that he will need to perform a driving test so the computer can learn and after all these new strategies the car will be ready to hit the street again.
They assured me that with the new programming my Ford Focus SEL 2012 would be ready and I would enjoy all the features of this wonderful unit.
Saturday the 17th by noon, they called me to tell me that the car was not working well and it was showing the same symptoms, bumping and hitting within the transmission.
Today is Tuesday the 20th of the December 2011, I have called the General Manager to tell her that my patience has reached its limit and that I need an immediate solution. I have asked her to lend me a car meanwhile we completely fix the problem because I have been without a car each of the seven times that the car has been in the workshop. As you can see, this situation is completely out of what someone can expect of a new vehicle. I believe I’m not asking for much since I’m taking the car for guarantee and they have made nothing to compensate the inconvenience.
My Ford Focus 2012 has run 6,650 kilometers (4,132 miles).
With the experience I have had so far with the acquisition of this Ford Focus, I feel I would never again buy a Ford unit nor recommend FORD as an option to my family, friends, colleagues etc. I’m very unsatisfied with FORD dealer in Monterrey, México and with the functionality of this unit.
Only through a lasting solution to my problem will I be able to change my current feeling towards your company.
Therefore, I want my money back or a total change of car. I am contacting Ford’s Corporate Offices because I believe and am confident that you will be able to give a definite solution to this painstaking problem as soon as possible, given the commitment to quality and customer service that you constantly promote.
The phenomenon is happening more often now, maybe six times during a 30 mile drive and it seems to be correlated with the following driver actions: switching from low beam to high beam head lights, switching on the turn indicator , changing the wind shield wiper speed, turning on the cruse control on or off, We are waiting for the intermittent action to happen enough so that if we give the car to the auto garage again, they can experience it and get some insight.. The phrase on the forum “Transmission or Electrical problem?” seems appropriate. The Overdrive button works OK, as does the light. I am theorizing that a sudden change in electrical voltage make be causing the action, but it is a feeble attempt at understanding the issue. If any one has any insight, we would like to here it.
So I replaced both wheel bearings, both lower ball joints, both drive axles, both tie rod ends, both sway links, both brake rotors & pads, transmission filter & fluid, spark plugs and wires, serpentine belt and splash shield, oil & filter, gas filter, air filter.
That should have taken care of things in the front half or car, ready for another happy 170,000 miles.
My next project, rebuild / replace the rear components to secure any rear end problems.