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I need more info.
Cliff
Cliff
**just a tip for all focus drivers who think 300 kms per tank is ridiculous. the permanent air filter on the car is NOT a permanent filter. i switched mine out for a cold air intake which cost me $30 and fits right on the old pipe where the old airbox was. No modifications necessary all sensors stay where they are and i now get 600 kms per tank and have better response. **
Cliff
Well problem with the lights is fixed. It turned out to be a severely corroded relay. And i replaced the spark plugs yesterday and its runnning way better. Just wondering tho, Does anyone elses spark plugs read that the engine is running hot? All four plugs were completely white. I put in new ones and made sure their gapped correctly. And so far no hesitation, or surging and the car feels looser.
Next question, Im replacing the fuel filter this week and just wondering if anyone knows which fuses i should pull as theres like 5 that are assigned to fuel.
Thanks for the help!
2002 Ford Focus
Cliff
then you get concerned.
Cliff
Odometer, tachometer, none of the guages, LED screen and turn signal indicators will not work.
Car runs fine, exterior lights, turn siganal, Brake lights, radio and Iterior dome and floor lights work fine.
Any ideas how to resolve this issue?
1. Gauges dying, then going full sweep, then work.
2. Fan dying down
3. Lights dimming
4. clicking relays from behind the dash
5. Alternator died
6. Battery failed to charge
7. Finally, would not start and would only click rapidly.
1. I started by removing the battery and cleaning the posts with 220 grit sand paper.
2. I noticed the positive clamp had corrosion at the wires nearest the clamp. These are large, red colored wires which are obviously hot wires. I cut the wires from the clamp and replaced the clamp with a brass one purchased from an auto parts store.
3. There are (2) ground wires underneath part of the air cleaner box, I removed them, sanded them with 220 grit, applied di-electric grease and bolted them back to the car. If the bolts break, just use a self-taping metal screw to fasten to the body.
4. I applied di-electric grease to all connections and re-inserted the battery and tightened the clamps.
The car started with a boost and sat and idled. I let the car idle up to temperature and turned the interior fan to max, turned on the headlights and turned up the radio. I could hear the engine labour as usual as the alternator delivered current. I drove the car home, about 2 miles and turned it off. It started up again and again after that.
The battery charge light is still on/off intermittenly but, everything works fine. I have proper power, all accessories are fine. I will likely replace the negative clamp as well because it too looked corroded to me. This was only done yesterday and, time will tell if it was the fix.
The theory of the problem solution is that the corroded wire cause too much resistance at that junction. Once the car operates and current flows for a while, things heat up and resistance builds. This also hinders charging of the battery and no doubt stresses the alternator. This is a relatively cheap thing to do, it's worth a shot for the rest of you.
Upon further thought, it makes sense to me that the negative clamp is the problem.
I cleaned that connection and tightened it as much as I could but still, the clamp would spin on the post. I am going to replace that clamp so that the new one grabs so tight that it will not spin on the post.
This fault makes sense, it would hinder the charging of the battery and it would prevent the battery from delivering current as the alternator spins down and the car "browns out" at idle. It may also stress the alternator to premature failure.
So, I would suggests that the first thing done is to make sure the battery terminals/clamps are clean and tight. That would likely solve most problems regarding a lack of current.
Instrument panel will not come on when car is first started, then will work fine after 10-15 minutes of driving. occurs when temp is below 50 degrees. Has happened 7 out of the last 10 days. Has worked perfect the first two times it was taken to the dealership. Both times it was left over nigth so it would be a cold start for the dealer. Third and forth time it went out, but they had no clue how to fix problem.
Odometer, tachometer, none of the guages, LED screen and turn signal indicators will not work.
Car runs fine, exterior lights, turn siganal, Brake lights, radio and Iterior dome and floor lights work fine.
First dealership worked on in problem four different times. Ford regional customer specialist suggested I take car to another dealer. Took car 10/27/11 to second dealer. Cluster will completely go dead on cold morning. Day four and they still have no clue what is causing the problem.
Anyone heard of similar issues with the 2012 focus?
Here's some numbers you may or may not already have to pursue an end to this issue.
Best of Luck
DrVette
Ford Website and other phone numbers
http://customerservicenumbers.com/co-ford
1-800-392-3673
Press 0;
at prompt press 0;
at prompt press 0;
at prompt press 1;
at prompt press 0.
Bulletin No: 19871
Date of Bulletin: 11/08/2007
Summary Description:
2006-2007 FOCUS- WIRING - 14401 HARNESS CHAFE CONDITION. *NJ
They found that someone had run several ground wires, to "fix" problems before and it totally runined the car.
I'm sorry but someone has given you bad information. Many elec isssues can be traced back to bad grounds..
No amount of excess grounding can do any damage at any time.
You can take that to the bank and get interest as it is totally correct.
BTW, in 88, Chevy full size trucks tripled the size of the ground strap from the battery to the engine block. Previously it was a 2awg or so, they then went to a 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick copper braided ground wire.
You were just given bad info, that's all.
Sorta like the old mech told me when I had an engine that was very tight sounding upon cranking.
He said, BOY, ur engin has dun got tite, when dey wear, dey get tite..
Oh, boy.
Don't we all just love liars :shades:
If there is any corrosion at all on that negative clamp, replace the entire cable, as corrosion can creep up a battery cable and you can't see it.
CORRECT, This is a much Overlooked problem.
3+ Decades at Southern Company in Power Generation, One statement applies to this issue.
"Electricity flows on the Outside of the Wire, Not on the Inside"
Corrosion on the outside of low voltage circuits can and will inhibit the correct flow of electricity.
Example
92 Buick Roadmaster SW, at hwy speeds, the engine would die out, then restart.
A scan showed a bad "ATS" [Air Temp Sensor]
A new one did NOT correct the issue.
Close inspection of the wire to the sensor yielded a small indention, which was indeed a cut.
Opening up the insulation showed a GREEN Corroded wire, I cut out the corrosion, soldered & heat shrink-ed it back and all was well.
[it WAS getting voltage BTW]
Grounds & Connectors;
Many electrical problems can be due to poor grounds from rust, paint, poor crimps on the wire, silicone from clean-up shops creeping into weather-tite connectors etc.
Don't forget to look on the underside of fuse/breaker panels for water in-leakage, signs of heat from overloading
OR/And
Remember "back-yard-Billy-Bob" trying to wire up a 4,000 watt sub-woofer, overloading the circuits as he by-passed the fuses.
Wreck damage or worn door bushings can allow water to the driver-side fuse box by the dour also.
Rusty Wrench aka DrVette
Type out ALL of your problems, in order that they occurred, inc weather, if the car was cold or just driven, or a "Hot-Soak" condition where you drove it in 100f temps, and let it sit in a open parking lot for 15+ min.
Go over your complaint list many times, remove any extra wording that's not needed, hit the enter button often to make spaces between paragraphs that are not directly related.
Make it as easy to read as possible.
Take it to the "Best" Ford dealer, with some bribery, like a sack of Apples, be NICE and ask for the head of the service dept.
See if he thinks your issues could be related to any of these TSB's
Bulletin No: 18425
Date of Bulletin: 04/05/2005
Summary Description:
NO CRANK ON START CHARGING SYSTEM WARNING INDICATOR ON DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS AND OR MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP ON. *EH
Bulletin No: 05916
Date of Bulletin: 12/07/2005
Summary Description:
LONG CRANK/HARD START - 2.0L AND 2.3L ENGINE WITH MTX-75 TRANSAXLE. *TT
Bulletin No: 17800
Date of Bulletin: 08/05/2004
Summary Description:
INTERMITTENT NO CRANK CONDITION. THERE MAY ALSO BE NO POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE COMMUNICATION AND/OR THE ODOMETER MAY DISPLAY ALL DASHES. *TT
Bulletin No: 18157
Date of Bulletin: 01/18/2005
Summary Description:
CRANK NO START OR OTHER DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS - SERVICE TIP. *TT
Bulletin No: 04234
Date of Bulletin: 04/18/2005
Summary Description:
NO CRANK WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DTC B16011 AND OR PATS SECURITY ACCESS ISSUES. *EH
Bulletin No: 18414
Date of Bulletin: 04/05/2005
Summary Description:
CRANK NO START OR HARD START COLD. *TT
Bulletin No: 19056
Date of Bulletin: 02/10/2006
Summary Description:
MIL ON/ROUGH RUNNING - MUTIPLE DTCS -0201, P0202, P0203 OR P0204 PRESENT IN THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM). *TT
Bulletin No: 031404
Date of Bulletin: 01/06/2005
Summary Description:
ENGINE MISFIRE OR RUNNING - COIL ON PLUG (COP) IGNITION SYSTEMS - WDS COP KIT DIAGNOSTIC TIPS. TO INCLUDE VARIOUS 2005 MODELS. * AR THIS ARTICLE 04161 SUPERSEDES TSB 03-14-04.
Bulletin No: 19026
Date of Bulletin: 02/10/2006
Summary Description:
MIRFIRE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES P0316, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, OR P0304 - SERVICE TIP. *TT
Bulletin No: 19009
Date of Bulletin: 02/10/2006
Summary Description:
DTC P0316, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303 AND/OR P0304 - SERVICE TIP. *TT
Bulletin No: 04147
Date of Bulletin: 12/07/2005
Summary Description:
SERVICE WIRING HARNESS REPLACEMENT GUIDELINES - SERVICE TIPS. *TT
link title
Good Luck
Rusty Wrenck aka DrVette
Some vehicles that exhibit a "dead or low" battery situation especially after a "Hot-Soak" can be attributed to lug on aluminum wire.
One major issue I have is the aluminum wire is "Copper Coated" so when you skin the insulation, your mind says "Copper"
In the 90's, the aluminum wire I describe here had micro-printing on it,
"copper-coated-aluminum"
That does not help unless you're 10 years old or happen to be wearing 3.75 magnifier glasses :shades:
Where it goes to the starter, it is crimped with a 2-leg style lug.
Upon heating up, the aluminum expands greatly, losing good connection, Amps go Sky High, the starter drags and the owner replaces either Starter, Battery or both.
Solution for aluminum cables is to replace them, well not everyone can afford new battery cables..
Another fix is to take a flat end punch, about 3/16" or so and tighten the connection between the wire and the lug.
Or replace the lug with a unit that has a threaded screw to clamp down on the wire.
If so, sounds like a bad multi-function stalk..
There are several TSB's on your vehicle, I can't see very well after researching for 8-10 hrs like today, so I have to let you or your technician look through these.
2002 Focus TSB's
Among many other issues with my 2000 Ford Focus, my next issue at hand is my rear defrost and clock. When I press the rear defrost, it makes a clicking noise, and the light momentarily flicks on...but upon release, shuts off. Being the dead of winter, this is now an immediate issue for me. :-(
Additionally, the clock does not turn on. If I push the button to start the radio, it reacts as if the car is shut off, stating "one hour" of radio time. I am not a mechanic (although I've dabbled with basic fixes), so I checked the fuses (49 and 50) for the related issues. The fuses are intact. I am assuming there is an electrical issue going on...and after reading a few posts on here, it doesn't seem to be a surprise in the Focus.
Has anyone else had this issue (most likely a rhetorical question--lol), and if so, what is the culprit, and what should I do next? Also, how much would it cost to get this issue fixed?
(My apologies ahead of time if the answer(s) is within the vast realm of this forum; I sifted through more than a few posts, but just figured I'd go ahead and post. :-))
Thanks ahead of time for any help!